They are mechanical marvels.  It is cool that the mechanics are so out there to see.  Hissing, dripping and greasy; huge cylinders stroke, shafts turn, gears mesh and the mighty wheels turn.

They are a cacophony of sounds and smells.  The wha, wha, wha from the stack as the boiler begins to build steam.  The roar of smoke belching from the stack.  The ticking of cinders raining down on the car roof.  The hiss of escaping steam.  The haunting/romantic/wild call of the steam whistle signaling crossings, starts, stops and all manner of crew direction.  Ack, that ear splitting squeal of wheels against rail in tight turns.  The smell of sulfur laden coal smoke.  That gotta-be-there to know it smell of oil and grease atomized in the hissing steam condensate.  Weird but you can smell hot steel; at least you can when there are tons of it.  The sweet scent of honeysuckle and alders in bloom that wafts into the open car as we pass.

We headed home a bit smelly, our ears ringing a little, and grit in our hair.  Wow, it was a wonderful day.