Aztec National Monument

We are here to check Aztec Ruins National Monument.  Museum displays compare and contrast the Pueblo and Chaco civilizations through their pottery, architecture, and building techniques plus try to connect the dots between those populations and the many native tribes that have and still do occupy these lands.

The grounds protect a huge Pueblo settlement of which about half has been excavated.  Weather has taken its toll but enough remains to give a good idea of how it looked as-built.  A trail allows us to wander through the many rooms of this huge structure.  It is amazing.  The great Kiva has been rebuilt based on archeologic evidence.  There is still debate about exactly what the Kivas were used for but whatever that outcome, this structure is impressive.

Another cool feature, two green stripes of stone are built into the entire length of one exterior wall.  This feature has not been seen in any other ruins, Chaco or Pueblo, in the entire four corners area.   Cool. What’s that about?

Town of Aztec

We check out the town of Aztec too.  The Aztec Museum and Pioneer Village is a fun stop.  Outdoors we found a mix of replica and historic pioneer buildings: Dr Office, Sheriff Office, School, Bank, Jail, a print shop, blacksmith shop, dirt floor farmhouse and in-town house and more, each full of related (or not exactly related) relics.  Scattered across the grounds we find tractors and other farm equipment.  Indoors are clothing exhibits from various decades plus old-time toys and music instruments. They have a cyclorama of the Old West probably 20 feet in diameter.  It’s fun just to wander through.

There is a lot of oil drilling stuff.  We are in the San Juan Basin and it is one of the largest gas areas in the US.  I would have guessed that.  Stand anywhere out here and you can see multiple pumpjacks with piping between and rough dirt roads crisscrossing everywhere.  It is not pretty.

Did you know:  Back in the 1920s fracking was accomplished by exploding nitroglycerine in the wells.   This museum exhibit claims that one enterprising sole even detonated a thermal nuclear device to create the required force.  Yikes.

Even bigger did you know:  Ever hear of Project Plowshare; the sanctioned Peaceful use of Nuclear Explosives in Cold War America.   How is it we have managed not to annihilate ourselves?

 

We can’t pass up the A&W for lunch.  Bummers, no frosted mugs!

The area’s other claim to fame is arches….I think they claim over 300 in the cliff and boulder remnants scattered across the scrub.  They publish a pamphlet that provides pretty specific directions to a dozen or so of them.    Armed with that, we head out on a sort of arch scavenger hunt.  We spend a fair amount of time bouncing along gas well access roads and do a bit of scrub land bush-whacking to find a total of 6 arches, one with a bonus of some rock art.  That’s enough fun for today.

Hello Colorado

Valleys are greening up and as we pass through areas of higher elevation pines are replacing juniper and scrub.  Just west of Durango we spot our first elk.  Small bands shelter along the tree line and individuals browse in meadows higher up the mountain slopes.  They are beautiful creatures and I am always excited to see them when we find ourselves in their habitat.  We are definitely still in the transition zone and find ourselves back into scrub for the final leg of today’s drive to Navajo Lake State Park.

We settle into camp along the shoreline all the while serenaded by the delightfully bright melody of meadow larks.  At least two species of flycatchers dart from one grass tuft to another.  Grassland sparrows add their tumbling song.  Vividly attired white-on-black magpies dart around us.  I open the window and screen, pour a glass of wine, put my feet up, and spend the rest of the afternoon watching the birds.  I’m happy.

The next morning, we see new splashes of color.  A pair of brilliantly orange bullock’s orioles moves among the scrub and we spot a mountain bluebird so blue it seems artificial.  A band of deer make an appearance enjoying the grassy shore.

I think maybe we are about ready to move out of the desert.

Bluff Fort Historic Site

Hole -in-the -rock Pioneers made their way from Escalante to a new town site in southeast Utah (the then remote Four Corners area).  They named it Bluff.   What we see here now is a wonderfully complete reconstruction of the 1880 settlement.   Descendants have contributed items from the actual period and tell the stories of hardship and determination in the words as passed down through their families.  One can visit other sites along the Hole-in-the rock Trail.  They are very remote in rugged country.  We’ll settle for this insight into the journey.

The scope of the expedition to settle this area gives another glimpse into the expansion efforts of The Church of Latter-Day Saints during that time and the degree to which devoted followers were willing to subordinate their very lives to that effort.  It is difficult to fathom.

Petroglyphs nearly in town

Just 3 ½ miles west of Bluff along the San Juan River is a huge petroglyph panel.  Hundreds of figures cover the heavily patinaed sections of the cliffs along the river flood plain.  It is inside Sand Island campground in an area that sees lots of foot traffic.  There has been some vandalism but a great number of the figures are still visible.  We are on a scavenger hunt for a Columbian mammoth with a bison figure overlaid.  It is highlighted at the Education Center as it dates the site to over 13,000 years ago.  We didn’t find it but still, a fun and amazing stop.  I wonder what the original authors are thinking as they hear us speculate as to the intent of these writings.

Into Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

We stopped to snap a few pictures as we drove by this park back on the 5th.  Today we are “in” for the 17-mile loop drive among the mesas, buttes, and spires.  There are a few nuances to the visit since this place is run by the Navajo Nation Parks rather than he US National Parks Service but the experience is mostly familiar.

We are up before 6am and on the road early hoping for ‘best light’ on the rock formations.  We are through the entry booth (bummers our senior pass is no good here) and on the loop drive before 8. The road is not as bad as many reviews declared but not great either.  Kent makes it around in 2-wheel drive, so not too bad.  Prominent buttes are named, some easily identified like “the mittens” others like “the elephant” require a bit more imagination and a view from just the right angle. It is cool to wind our way among them as shadows change with the rising sun angle.  My favorite is probably the totem pole and adjacent dancers, The Yei Bi Chei. We leave with a lot of pictures!  I am not certain which drive is the more impressive, Monument Valley or Valley of the Gods.  Monument Valley is immense and the raw scale as we move through it makes one feel small in comparison.  The drive through the narrower Valley of the Gods brings us closer to the features making it seem like a more personal experience.  Both could be improved by removing distracting human intrusions: boondocking RVs all over Valley of the Gods and rooftops of homesteads among the buttes of the Tribal Park.  Both have tipped too far in the scale balancing right-to-use and preservation, in my opinion.  But yes, I too would have loved to have spent a silent night under a star-filled sky in Valley of the Gods.

Yeah, I see it

We spy the Monument namesake, Bears Ears Buttes. We are out along Colorado 95 checking out Puebloan ruins and get a pretty good outline on the horizon.

Stop one is Edge of Cedars State Park Museum just outside of the Monument in Blanding.  They house a large collection of Ancestral Puebloan pottery and artifacts wonderfully displayed and curated. Stuff I didn’t know or never saw: stone arrowheads on a yucca strand to be carried like an ammo cartridge, a chart comparing the eras of world civilizations – the Anasazi span is remarkable, a sculpture demonstrating the use of shadow and sun-light beams for telling seasons and “time”.   We have made our way through a number of museums housing similar artifacts.  It is fantastic to come across something new.  There is a partially excavated and restored Pueblo Village on the ground.  We explore including checking out the inside of the Kiva.  Edge of Cedars is definitely worth a stop.

Bears Ears NM claims over 100,000 cataloged archeological sites scattered on cliff edges, atop mesas, in washes, and in streambeds.  Many have not been explored or fully documented.  We check out a few of the more accessible ones.  Alcove dwellings great and small, some amazingly intact others eroded and looted.  Remnants of cliff-top towers that stood guard or maybe provided elevation to communicate over distance.  Circular Kivas, the space for rituals or the mundane or probably both.  There is still a lot to learn about all these ancient civilizations and those doing the studying are trying desperately to keep looters and even casual hikers from spoiling the finds.  They have a whole set of rules here that parallels the hiker’s mantra, “Leave no trace” but goes on to admonish all to follow unique site protective guidelines.  This place definitely deserves at a minimum, the protections afforded by National Monument status.

Day one at Bears Ears National Monument

We head out this morning to explore .  We start with Valley of the Gods, a smaller scale Monument Valley.  17 miles of narrow gravel road wind through a field of redrock formations.  Shadows and colors are beautiful in the morning light.

Then Kent gets some really “fun” driving.  We head up Moki Dugway, a steep switchback-rich climb up onto Cedar Mesa.  We made this drive years ago but it is still exciting.  The road is steep and hangs on the edge of the cliffs but is in pretty good shape and the traffic is light.  Views are fantastic.  Once up on the plateau we head for Muley Point for even more amazing vistas. To the south we see as far as Monument Valley.  To the North are the snow-capped La Sal mountains over 70 miles distant.  Just below us is a bird’s eye view of Valley of the Gods and the longest entrenched meander in North America.  The San Juan River moves less than 2 miles toward the Colorado in 6 miles of twists and turns in a canyon over 1000 feet deep.

We make a quick stop at the Bears Ears Educational Center for local recommendations on drives, trails, and interesting sites.  Armed with marked up maps we are set for the next several days of exploring.

Moving on

Our journey from Page to Bluff, Utah starts off through a wide valley of rolling desert scrub.  By mid-way through the trip, red sandstone formations begin to appear on the landscape.  As we move on, gigantic monoliths and delicate spires become more and more common. Soon we find ourselves in the middle of Monument Valley.  It is awesome.  We have to stop at Forest Gump Point for a quick selfie of course then its on to Hat Rock near the town of Mexican Hat and finally our new home.  We are at Cottonwood RV in Bluff for next few days.

Wahweap Hoodoos

We are in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and take to the trails.   Five miles out the mostly dry creek bed of Wahweap Creek is a collection of cool looking, odd shaped, gravity defying towers.  Dakota Sandstone caps sit atop towers of Entrada Sandstone that the powers of wind and water have carved free from surrounding cliffs.  Around the spires are mounds that resemble melted candles and recesses filled with intricate shapes and curtains created as waters recede and evaporate redepositing rock.  At our feet in the flow channels of the creek-bed, the last vestiges of floodwaters have carved what looks like miniature versions of the canyon features all around us.

The trek is a bit of a challenge.  Not only is it pretty long, 10+ miles round trip, but it is mostly on round rock and gravel strewn sand with unexpected gooey muddy spots.  Oh, and it is very windy whipping stinging sand into our eyes and everywhere else.  It is particularly bad on the way back out to the truck.  I’m exhausted, Kent’s pretty tired too but it was a great hike.  We grab a well-earned ice cream cone on the way home then crash for the rest of the day.