We are in covered bridge country and the nearest is in Cornwall, just 30 minutes from here. It is a curvy drive along the Housatonic River past quaint towns and lots of fishing access points. The bridge is beautiful and wonderfully maintained. We hang to appreciate it a bit then head to the Cornwall Country Store for some ice cream. A roadside history signs explains why there are so many “Cornwalls (Cornwall Bridge, West Cornwall, Cornwall, Cornwall Village…). This area was occupied during post-religious-freedom settlement days. They didn’t settle A town centered on a church. They settled their land as separate farmsteads. Ultimately little burgs each declaring its own name formed around many of those individual farmsteads so….lots of Cornwalls. Cool historical tidbit.
Author Archives: Lynn
Moving on
We are set to meet up with Kent’s sister, Tammy, in Hartford next week so we are heading that way today. Our destination, Waramaug State Park in Connecticut. We zig-zag our way east on lots of county and lesser state routes through some lovely small towns. Some are clusters of cottages with a smattering of historic roadhouses and Inns and some are collections of old mansions and new behemoth summer homes. The drive is short, just two hours, and uneventful. Waramaug is a small park and sites pretty close together but it should be just fine for our short stay here. Occupancy will likely fall dramatically during the week. No Verizon service again though. That is a bit of a bummer. Investigating trails and local activities is a bit of a chore. We will see how it goes. Signs posted at the dumpster warn us to be careful of the mama black bear and her three cubs who have been raiding the dumpsters of late. Of course, I’d love to see them but know that they will get in trouble if they don’t keep their distance.
Opus 40
We finally make it for a full tour of Opus 40 sculpture garden. It is just 20 minutes from Kingston but we managed only an abbreviated evening visit this summer. Huge rock structures/earthworks emerge from a retired bluestone quarry. Spring-fed pools are scattered throughout. The scale is amazing and the fact that it exists as a labor of love of one artist, Harvey Fite, created over nearly 40 years is remarkable. He used traditional quarryman’s tools and was definitely obsessed with his work. Probably was tough to be married to him but we are fortunate to be able to come here to enjoy his work. Very cool.
Kids a-plenty
It is our last day here at Kenneth Wilson so we head out to explore the SP trails and maybe dip our paddles in the local pond. We turn the corner into the day use area and are greeted with 2 bus loads of 10-year-olds. Looks like it is field day. They are corralled in team building activities by their adults so we skirt the group and head out the nature trail. In minutes we are beyond earshot of the kids and emersed in thick forest along a still-water bog that reflects beautifully. We cross into pine forest where thick layers of needles muffle even our footsteps. Wildlife is sparce with only squirrels to keep us company but it is a nice walk. It is still chilly and kids are everywhere as we emerge from the trail. We will return later for a possible kayak run. (Later we return from Opus 40 ready to relax. Kayaking will have to wait for our next visit.)
Lunch a Sweet Sues in Phoenicia
It is mid-day Thursday in the Catskills and pickings are slim for open eating establishments. Outdoor tables under bright yellow umbrellas and a sandwich board listing intriguing mocktails draw us to Sweet Sues. We start with a margarita and a cucumber spritzer. Delightful. My lunch choice is brisket hash…the Catskill version is sort of deconstructed but excellent. Two beautifully poached eggs sit atop a shallow bowl lined with herby roasted potato quarters. A large slice of grilled onion peeks out from under a crisped slab of beef brisket that is draped across the entire dish. Not at all like I expect hash to look! It tastes as good as it looks. Kent’s Hog Johnson sausage, ham and eggs plate is more traditional (add a grilled tomato and tomatoey beans) and “ok” rather than spectacular.
Keep on trekking
We headed for bed around 9 last night after taking a preventive dose of ibuprofen. There was still some tossing and turning with tired feet and leg cramps but eventually we dosed off. It seemed like only minutes ‘til I get an elbow bump and “Its 6:05. Are we going hiking?” There is a 10 minute snooze then we are up and the coffee perking. The air is cool and the sky clear as we head out for another chance for long mountain views. We are at the route 47 trailhead for the Giant Ledge trail before 8:30.
The trail looks a lot like a stream bed. Loose rocks are strewn haphazardly and it is wet underfoot. Thankfully there’s been no rain the last day or two so it is passable. Occasionally sunlight makes its way through the canopy splashing brilliant patches on the forest floor. Birds chip and tsk up in the canopy and woodpeckers softly peck in search of breakfast. We are grateful for the cool temps and shed jackets before the halfway mark. It is a workout because of elevation change and all-consuming to watch foot placement among the obstacles. We have the place pretty much to ourselves as we encounter only three hikers the entire climb. We have arrived! From a clear rock cropping we take in a majestic view across at least 5 mountain ridges. Streaks of clouds form along the ridgelines. There are so many colors of green. Wind rustles the treetops beneath us. Here on our perfect perch the cool air swirls and brilliant sun warms. It is a great place to hang for a bit.
Kaleidoscope
Ok, not exactly what I expected but actually cooler. “Largest Kaleidoscope”, I am thinking a big telescope looking thingy that you hold and turn to get the shapes. Nope. This one actually resides in an old silo – yeah, big. We are “seated” in a viewing room. They turn down the lights. Accompanied by a great story reminding us that we, actually all things, are born of star dust; they animate the kaleidoscope so that shapes form, combine, disappear, and reform as a new image on the ceiling of the room. I loved it and found it hard to resist buying a more reasonably sized one to create the show for myself when the mood presents itself. The kaleidostore had stuff to buy of course and some cool exhibits. My favorite was a mirrored and decorated chamber that when you stick your head in the images seem to go on forever reflection in reflection in reflection. Amazing.
Catskills trails
We are awake before daylight with the plan to be out on the local pond as the sun comes up to do a bit of birding; but it is windy. Tree tops are swaying and even undergrowth is rustling in the nearly steady winds. It is a no-go on birding so we go for option two and hit some trails. First up, Kaaterskill Falls. It is the tallest falls in NY and with recent rain it is running pretty full. The view from the falls overlook entices us to go on down to the foot of the falls to take in the entire drop. It is a classic falls trail, steep with lots of steps. The view is well worth the hike. We shed our jackets and slow climb back up to continue along the main trail, the escarpment trail. You would think that a trail named after cliff edges would be fairly consistent elevation. Nope. It is pretty much always up or down, never flat ground and in typical northeast mountains trail style, there is lots of loose rock and dirt with boulders, roots and muddy patches mixed in. Trail guides promise great views so we journey on. A bare cliff edge comes into view and from rock ledges we see the valley stretch out below us on to the distant mountains. We are at stop two, Inspiration Point. It is beautiful. A red-tailed hawk glides by and dots of color remind us again of the coming season change. We chill for a bit and take it all in then start back to the trailhead. It is just 3 miles out here but we haven’t put in many trail miles lately and want to be sure we are able to get out again tomorrow. A short route back gets us to the car with a total distance of 4.75 miles. It has been a great morning.
Out and about
Still rainy but that doesn’t stop us from a reprise of breakfast at the Phoenicia Diner. We both very much enjoyed the stop with all the kids back in July. Kent stays with the taco skillet and I try a ham breakfast sandwich. We are both happy with our selections. It is a bit too early for a bourbon milkshake but we might find our way back here at a more appropriate time before we leave the area! Next, we check out a section of the Catskills Scenic Byway. Splashes of orange and red dot the mountainsides as we get a look at some early signs of fall. It must be spectacular here in October. The creeks are running full. We are anxious to check out some waterfalls over the next couple days.
Slept in!
It is only about 8:30 but still feels decadent. It is spitting rain on and off. Kent fixes breakfast and we lounge around much of the day venturing out only for a quick trip to the Catskill Visitor Center. We climb the fire tower to take in cloud shrouded vistas of the surrounding mountains. A well informed and enthusiastic volunteer shares lots of information on recommended trails and other activities. They claim the world’s largest kaleidoscope…gotta see it. Then back to camp for a quiet evening. No cell phone reception, no TV, no power. It is easy to just relax and soak it all in. “Who cooks for you” call of barred owls drifts through camp as we settle off to bed.