Odds and ends around Long Point

Local eatery – Squid lips – Conch fritters, crunchy fish BLT wrap, fish and chips, plus key lime pie to go.  It is a delicious stop.

More beach time – sunrise and sun time.  Waves are still high.  We never get beyond knee deep but it is beautiful.

Some walking – Indian River lagoon Preserve – ok walk.  Maritime Hammock Sanctuary – great shady stroll.

Driving the Cruise Jungle Trail – it’s an old route along Indian River Lagoon that now winds among oaks and mangroves in a narrow undeveloped zone between huge homes and condos and the waterfront.  It is cool and amazing that it still exists.

The Sebastian Inlet area stays on or list of places we might return to in Florida.  Next time we hope for calmer winds.  It would be great to get out in the kayaks and a little further into the surf.

Oceanside

Some 25 miles of the ocean barrier island beach is within Archie Carr NWR.  Back toward camp, we find a dune cross-over and check it out.  The beach is deserted except for one lone fisherman. It is high tide and a strong wind out of the east brings surf much too rough for me to do any more than get my feet wet.  We find a comfy log and take a seat well beyond the waves.  Bright sun.  Crashing waves.  Salty spray.  Soft, smooth sand.  It is a feast for the senses.

The First National Wildlife Refuge

In 1903 Roosevelt signed an executive order to create Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge to protect one of the last brown pelican rookeries on the east coast.  Today there are about 568 refuges. We just have to stop to check out the one that got it started.   The main birding trail weaves through the mangroves and is a nice walk.  We spot a few snakes and egrets.  We come across an open view into a shallow bay and enjoy watching what looks like a collaborative fishing effort of brown pelicans and dolphins.  On the lagoon side of the refuge an observation tower provides a nice view of Pelican Island and a great spot to watch wood storks show off their magnificent soaring and banking ability as pelicans patrol the waters.   A few Roseate spoonbills sit in the treetops on the island. Later a Roseate flies right overhead.

North on 95

We make a quick stop at The Anhinga Trail for a daytime pass.  No mosquitos, that is a plus, and we see anhinga feeding their young in the nests.  Then we are off.  Kent expertly maneuvers the tangled web of interstates and toll roads around Miami/Ft Lauderdale then it’s straight up 95 to Long Point Park, Melbourne Beach Florida.  It is a lovely setting for a park.  We are just off A1A on the barrier island and among the mangroves near Sebastian Inlet.  It almost feels chilly at 74 degrees and breezy.

What has changed at Everglades NP in 5 years? Lots.

Mosquitos…at least so far this visit they are quite manageable with just a short flare up in the twilight hours.  Our last visit they were thick all the time and ran us indoors at least part of every day.

There are nearly No ground mammals due to the invasive Burmese Pythons.

Eco Lake is a different place.  Hurricane tidal surge carried salt water well inland into what was a lovely little fresh water lake, home to many wading birds.  No more.  Salt-poisoned vegetation stands bare on the banks.  The surface of the pond is alive with marsh bugs and clogged with periphyton, an algae mat the looks sort of like soggy breadsticks.  Icky looking but it is nature doing its thing.

They are actually working at repairing the historical pink visitor center building to serve that purpose once again; perhaps as soon as late summer 2022.  That will be nice.  They are still in a dinky temporary building.

Construction on the long-planned hotel has resumed.  The concrete pillar foundation now supports a shipping-container-style construction.  They are adding the roof now with posted completion this summer.  Looks unlikely to me.  The restaurant section is even further behind.

Last day in Everglades

We take a down day and just laze. We can’t pass up a tasty version of a Rueben from the lunch truck at the Marina.  Pastrami and kraut on rye with lots of mozzarella all grilled to gooey perfection.  Delicious.  Low light pollution and a late rising moon bring us a marvelous dark night sky.  It is a nice ending for the stay.

Exploring

Bird watching on the mud flats of Florida Bay.  This is a spotting scope spot!  The flats are WAY out there.  We recognized blue herons, egrets and pelicans but everybody else is just a swarm of birds.  At the marina we spotted a baby manatee in the canal area and a nest filled with young osprey. Fun.

Birdwatching in Snake Bite off Florida Bay. It is far out to the flats here too but I think I saw roseate spoonbills.  It was a long hot hike back!  Only 1.8 miles but hardly any breeze and 85+.

Kayaking West Lake.  The long open water paddle (4 miles) was easy on the way out but across a moderate chop coming back in.  It seemed like the wind blew from every direction and the waves formed like pyramids that the boat slid off of in every direction.   The last mile was a challenge.  Out at the far end of the lake we wound through a shady, quiet mangrove tunnel.  It had one “limbo tree” to get under but we made it through. You can get all the way out into Florida Bay if you continue another 4 miles or so but there was lots more open water ahead and the wind was kicking up so we turned back.  Overall, a good trip but watch the wind forecast if you have plans to head out this trail.

Paddling out to Coot Bay.  We were on the water by 8am and it is much quieter than we expected.  We spotted a handful of herons and egrets among the mangroves as we paddled out Buttonwood canal. An immature bald eagle glided overhead, the first we have seen here.  3 miles out plus a little loop in Coot Bay then we start back.  Not surprisingly, we paddle against a headwind.  We are entertained by the acrobatics of swallow-tailed kites and catch a look at an open-mouthed croc sunning among downed limbs.

It is a bit of a drive back out to Royal Palms but I wanted to check out the Anhinga Trail.  It is a chance to catch up with Carol too, she is camping at Long Pine Key.  First, Carol feeds us dinner: great chicken salad and wonderful key lime pie for dessert.  There had been thunder storms earlier and still a little rumbling.  We even ate indoors hiding from a short shower.  We let our food settle a bit then headed out for the trail around 7PM.  Evening can be a fun time for wildlife.  The walk was pretty much a bust…we saw anhinga and a few egrets and only a couple alligators on the return side of the loop.  Somebody flipped the bug switch just as we reached the far end and we found ourselves in the heart of an annoying mosquito swarm.  Bug spray kept them somewhat at bay but we wrapped things up pretty fast after that.  Carol rode out to Flamingo with us and spent the night on our couch so she could have a chance to explore our end of the park for a few hours.

Baby Manatee

I gave Carol the nickel tour at Flamingo.  A couple manatees, the baby osprey, and a crocodile all made an appearance.  We checked out the marina store and visitor center then gathered up Kent to head back to Long Pine with stops at a few high points along the way.  It was getting pretty late in the day so it was hot and humid but we walked the West Lake and Mahogany Hammock boardwalks and did a bit of bird watching at a couple other stops. We delivered Carol home and polished off her leftovers for lunch.  We were all looking forward to some relaxation in the air conditioning.  We headed back to Flamingo for one more day in the park before we start our journey north.  So long Carol.  Current plans have us crossing paths next in NY for Miss Willa’s b’day.

Rats!

My binoculars broke.  We were chilling on a shady bench along Florida Bay   I cleaned a lens with my shirt tail (like I do 10 times a day) and the outer lens pushed down into the barrel of the binoculars.  Looks like there is no way to fix them.  I will have to make do one-eyed ‘til we settle in somewhere long enough to get a replacement.

On down to Everglades Flamingo

We start with the open marsh-land drive on Tamiami Trail out of Big Cypress and end with a beautiful stretch on the park road through Everglades National Park.  Between, we make our way along the long stretch of Miami’s west side and endless farm and nursery land.  The high point of that stretch, Robert Is Here, a produce stand gone tourist trap.  Our objective, milkshakes.  I go for key lime and Kent for a tropical fruit version the gal at the counter says is their best shake, Canistel.  I prefer the key lime.  We leave with a watermelon, some fresh salsa, a cucumber and field ripe tomatoes.  Everglades Adventures cancelled our houseboat excursion, two nights on Whitefish Bay, because of some sort of mechanical problem.  It would have been fun to be out there at night emersed in the sounds of the backcountry.  It is not gonna happen this time though so now I need to do some more day planning.  Quick stops at both visitor centers yield recommendations on activities and ranger program schedules.  Site 25 is home for the next few days

Adventures from Monument Lake – Big Cypress Preserve

Carol and I are up early the next morning to take the first Shark Valley tram ride. It is a chance to see the whole 16 miles of the trail and to hear what their naturalist trip narrators have to say about the terrain and the wildlife. We spot a nice selection of wading birds, a purple gallinule, and Carol gets to see her first gators and even a croc.  We check out a couple visitor centers as we headed back home.  It is a great outing.

Day 2 Kent and I head for the loop drive off 41 to get in some trail walking and wildlife watching along the slough.  Our first stop is Gator Tail trail, a swamp slog during wet season, but we are well into dry season and hope to make it into the cypress at least part way.  The coolest find, a barred owl patiently posing just off the trail.  Cypress trees are just greening up with tiny soft needles all along the branches.  Wildflowers dot the trailside and marsh.  We start on spongy soft soil.  It transitions to gooey mud squished all around a labyrinth of pot holed limestone (they call them solution holes).  A few inches of elevation change and we find ourselves weaving through a maze of cypress knees.  It is all treacherous underfoot but cool to see.  At one mile in we encounter the ultimate obstacle, standing water about knee deep.  Time to retrace our steps and say so long to this swamp.  A records check says we got turned around in that same place back in 2017.

We continue along the loop drive and encounter the local flagman…must be just in time for shift change.

There is water standing along both shoulders and at a slow roll we spot lots of slough regulars: herons, egrets, anhinga, cormorants, and gators.  We walk the tree snail trail and spot 25+ residents. Check out some pics.   It is after 1 o’clock and just passed 90 degrees.  We head home for some shade time and to clean up.  Carol and I go on an airboat ride this afternoon.

 

 

The need for speed

It is not very ecologically friendly but we are going to splurge on an airboat ride through the mangrove tunnels.  We idle a bit sight-seeing and looking for wildlife but the real focus is highspeed turns through the tunnels.  It is great fun!  We traveled with Josh, captain for Everglades City Airboats.  Dinner is at The Island Café in everglades City: Crab Cakes, a shrimp basket, and scallop dinner.   We top it off with some great, tart key lime pie.  Delicious.

Mangrove tunnels in the kayaks

Kent and I are on the water by 7:15AM to head out on the Turner River Canoe Trail.  We have been warned at the visitor center about lots of gators (they won’t bother you) and heavy use this time of year.  Neither problem materializes as we launch then set off through the tall grass marsh.  Slow current and light tail wind help us weave our way through the quiet marsh.  A few gator heads and a smattering of wading birds keep us company as we make our way toward the mangrove tunnels.  The low rumble of amorous gators floats our way. We come to the wall of trees and spot the tunnel opening.  Just as we turn in, we hear a great clattering and splashing then catch sight of a photographer gathering tripod and equipment to clear the tunnel path.  He’s been out taking pictures to catch the morning light through the mangroves.  We maneuver by and continue on zigging and zagging a winding route under the mangrove canopy.  We certainly won’t be sneaking up on anything!  Kent has a brilliant idea, take the paddles apart so we can use a 5-foot oar instead of a 10 feet paddle.  Much better in this tight space.  We combine the shorter paddle and some hand over hand directly in the mangroves and successfully emerge from the far end of the tunnel.  Frustrating sometimes but a fun paddle.   We make a turn in open water then dive into tunnel number 2.  It is a mess, heavily overgrown and lots debris just under the surface.  We make it through but it is not really fun.  Can’t wait to meet the tour groups as we try to make our way back through on the return trip!  We are in open water again sliding along between the grasslands (a recent burn) and mangroves again.  It is quiet and lovely. A flock of rosette spoonbills swoops by.  There are red shoulder hawks and lots of ibis.  Kayak hips are complaining a bit.  Time to turn around.  We are a bit better at the mangrove maneuvering and all goes smoothly as we meet only a few outbound boaters.  Overall, it’s a great trip.  Glad we did it.

One more outing – Corkscrew Preserve

It is an Audubon preserve with a long boardwalk that loops through first pond cypress then huge bald cypress.  It is very windy interfering with birding other than the waders but they make a pretty good showing.  Our best finds, a yellow-crowned night heron adult and juvenal.  A group of racoons make an appearance.  Anhinga, egrets and lots of herons are hanging out.

 

 

 

We close out the day with another dinner out.   This time we try Joanie’s Blue Crab Café on 41 right in the park.  Carol’s neighbor highly recommended it so how could we not?  Check out this pic.  Quite the place.  Throw in a tornado watch and rain blowing sideways to add some more local flavor.  I go all in and order a Swamp Combo – gator, shrimp, grouper and frog legs – all fried or course and delicious.  Carol gets a beautiful bowl of she-crab chowder.  It is not just what she expected but tasty.  Kent enjoys his grouper basket.  More key lime pie and we are stuffed. I have a big box of leftovers!

 

 

 

 

Last day – biking Shark Valley

It is 47F as we get up.  There is a steady breeze out of the north making it feel like 40. We hoped for a cool day for this trip but wow, this is a bit more than expected.  Still, Kent and I are going.  Saddle up and here we go.  A tailwind is nice as we roll along the slough with little effort.  Best looks; a puffy red shouldered hawk, a handful of purple gallinules, wood storks, and quite a few green herons.  We make a quick stop at the tower for the long view then start the long hard pedal into the wind back to the start.  Yep, its pretty hard work and yep that was a pretty long ride (15.4 miles) for out of practice.  You would think we would remember that from last time.  We’d do it again…..after a few days.