It is windy and a little chilly. We, and some thirty or so others, lean on a split rail fence high above the surf gazing down to the beach and out into the waves. We are on the lookout for the rare, endangered yellow-eyed penguin. We move slowly and whisper so as not to alarm the illusive creature and survey with binoculars and telephoto lens. Our only reward so far, a half dozen seals scattered along the beach looking much like the logs and seaweed that surround them. It is after 7PM, still nothing. Then there he is. One lone penguin rides the surf to shore. Short waddling walks interspersed with rest breaks bring him up the beach where he disappears into the brush. Just one but still amazing. I’d do this again.
Our first Freedom Camping (boondocking) experience was to have been out here at Bushy Beach. No such luck. “Sites” are washed out side spots on an already narrow curly road. We head back into town, Oamaru, and opt for a quiet lot in town; not nearly as picturesque but its late and we are tired. We will find picturesque tomorrow.
Author Archives: Lynn
International Antarctic Center
It is 15 degrees and the wind is howling as it whips across my face. My checks feel tingly and I bury my hands deeper into my pockets. Flags above the igloo snap in the wind. We are in a cold chamber walking on a blanket of snow and in direct line of huge fans that create the gale affect. What a great way to get a bit of a feel of what it is like to be out in the weather in the Antarctic.
Little blue and white-flipper penguins glide through the water snatching up tasty morsels. We are here for feeding time for a dozen or so Ambassador Penguins. They are rescues that have been injured beyond return to the wild so they remain here to entertain and educate visitors. What amazing swimmers.
A 4D movie! In this case the 4th dimension is seal sneezes, snowflakes, wave spray, gull poop, and the thud of iceberg impacting ship hull. We take a short expedition among the icebergs and Antarctic wildlife. Pretty cool.
Theses boys don’t work too hard. A Husky rescue works out of this same space. We meet three adorable members of 59 who hang out here. They hope to train teams; but, as in nearly all rescues they are looking for volunteers to get that program rolling. They are beautiful just chilling. I love the clear blue eyes.
Why an Antarctic Center here in Christchurch New Zealand? Supply and support convoys for all manner of Antarctic scientific expeditions set off from here. South American is actually closer but politics and dollars being what they are, multi-country collaborations have been set up through here. Huge C130s outfitted with skies sit out on the tarmac just waiting for their next mission. The center preserves artifacts from early exploration and has an interesting display on the geology and life on the continent. Some displays could use an update but it is well worth the stop. Even if you just disembarked from a red eye!
A few logistics
First, need to get a cell phone working. No problem, service providers and SIM card sellers are everywhere in the airport. Done. We have successfully made an in-country call (three tries I must admit) and still some work to be sure international texting is working. Night one is to crash at Jucy Snooze, a simple bed and bath stop here close to the airport before we pick up our campervan tomorrow. Clean, comfortable, and convenient.
New Zealand
We enter the country through Auckland where arriving visitors include lots of hiking and outdoor types coming to tramp around their magnificent back country. Entry into the country is easy, just scan my own passport at an electronic kiosk and answer the couple questions that flash on the screen, smile for a facial ID then off we go. The serious business starts with questions about camping and sporting gear and any risk for biological contaminants. Very pleasant folks but determined. They washed my boots! Thankfully they didn’t just take them. Ok, next, a flight to Christchurch.
Rats, it is overcast. Cloud tops are beautiful in the brilliant morning sun but I am hoping for a preview of our home for the next few weeks. On cue, the clouds break to a view of magnificent rugged shorelines, soaring mountain ranges, and broad green valleys cut through by winding braided rivers. Fantastic.
The Journey begins
It only takes three tries to get all the bags within New Zealand Air carryon and checked bag rules while keeping in mind that we have to get all that stuff in our little campervan too. Ultimately its (2) checked bags and one small carry-on plus backpacks. Manageable. Thanks, Brian for chauffeuring us to the airport then we begin the hurry up and wait that is air travel. Easy bag check-in and smooth through security. Since people don’t listen and announcements are garbled boarding is about as messed up as with US carriers. It is all good though, here we are in row 50 of 61 on a B777 300W. Quite a few kids on board but it’s a big plane! No virus-scare face masks, that’s a good start. Seats are surprisingly roomy and there are lots of entertainment choices to help the time pass. Kent and I both doze off and on occasionally awakened by a bout of turbulence. That seems unusual to me at over 30000 ft but the crew says no, happens regularly on this route. Jet stream maybe? Meals break up the time; dinner, including a sampling of New Zealand wine then breakfast. I catch the entire Chernobyl Mini Series, a bit heavy but very engaging. The ride is long but not miserable as we touch down in Auckland in the dark of early morning, 5:30 AM.
While we slept, we crossed the Equator and the International Date Line.
Pulling out
It is always a bit of a chore to pack up after a long stay but things have come together and we are on our way. The motorhome and trailer are snugged away in storage near Rosenberg and the car will land in the kids’ driveway later today. We have a chance to spend a few hours with my brother Bob as he happens to be in Houston for business this week. Happy coincidence! Tomorrow evening our great Down Under adventure begins
Celebrating
First, the Friends Organization of the Mid Coast Refuge Complex sponsors a very tasty fajita luncheon as thanks to all volunteers, RVers and locals alike. The food is delicious and includes some classic Hispanic deserts, tres leches cake and flan plus an odd sounding but really delicious grapefruit and rosemary pie. Thanks to all the refuge staff for cooking and serving.
Our smaller circle, San Bernard Staff and our fellow RV volunteers, get together for a farewell dinner at a local pub, Wayside. It is a great tradition that gives us all a chance to visit, swap stories, and trade contact information to try and stay in touch once we all head on to other things. We have been part of their biggest volunteer group ever, 8 of us at one time. Six remain for at least another month or two but we are off on our next adventure. Australia and New Zealand here we come!
One last project
Since Kent earned his stripes in electrical work, he has one more wiring-like project before we move on. Today he is remounting the power and switch wiring for the fuel island on the refuge. I have the support tasks, including painting the new mounting board. Turns out waiting for the paint to dry down here in sticky, humid Texas is the slowest part of the job. Not too shabby a job I say!
An evening stroll
Boots crunch as we zigzag through tilled soil where feral hogs have rutted up Cowtrap trail. We move along high and dry up on the levee with a view of marshland as far as the eye can see. Scattered pools of open water offer habitat for all manner of waders and ducks. Mosquitoes buzz around us but are held tolerably at bay by a steady breeze.
Grackles trade their whistle like calls and the air is filled with the telltale trill of red wing blackbirds as they skip hop the trail in front of us. It is overcast with just enough sun to bring the gators out to loll on their favorite patch of grass.
I am on the lookout for rails, it is the perfect habitat but none make a showing. We spot grebes, egrets, herons and all the typical ducks. We startle a group of hogs at the trail’s end and they noisily scurry off into the brush.
Shadows grow longer and the sky takes on a warm orange glow. Blackbirds disappear from the trail side and coalesce into an undulating cloud on the horizon. The sun flashes off wings of a flock of white ibis floating just above the marshland. As daylight wanes, critters we seldom see announce with clicks, gurgles, and chirps rising from all around us. Amazing how different this world becomes as night falls.
Wrapping things up
Just three more work days ‘til we head out. Rain is forecast so it likely won’t be a very productive last week. We put in one extra day this week to wrap up trail work at Dow Woods. There is always opportunity for more trimming and it wouldn’t hurt if it was all mowed again but overall it looks pretty good.