The drive into Borrego Springs involves dodging rising water
in several places as the rain continues, just as forecast. It is easy to spot the restaurant/diner, it
has a giant Red “O” on the roof. Our
waitress (the only waitress it seems) is friendly, cheerful, and does a great
job keeping up with the increasing crowd.
Quiche and biscuits and gravy.
How could we go wrong?
We enjoy our last sip of delicious coffee and head out. It is still rainy, grey, and cool so we head home and do some planning as we watch the weather play out across the valley.
Our boondocking site is back a sandy wash and the overnight weather
forecast includes over an inch of rain.
Can you say “flash flood zone”? We decide that we ought to move to firmer,
higher ground before that rain gets here.
Our new site is only about 4 miles east and offers a great view of the valley
while sitting high and dry on rocky ground. We take a short hike through the wildflowers
and back Coachwhip Canyon knowing that the weather will likely keep us in
tomorrow.
First, the quest to find the elephant tree. Soft sand and big smooth stones make the
access road too treacherous. We have to
walk the last ½ mile to the trail head. We are actually out on an ancient alluvial fan
winding our way through smooth rounded stones heaped in rows where raging water
left them many years ago. One can’t help
but be impressed by the power of water! One
more zig or maybe zag and we come upon the one remaining living elephant tree
on the trail. Pretty cool shape and
amazing anything that big can survive here; but I can’t see why they call it an
elephant tree.
In the desert where there is water there is wildlife. I am anxious to check out the trail to Yaqui Well to see who might be hanging out there. We wind our way through a great cluster of green leaved ocotillo with bright red blossoms like flags on the stalks. No critters to be heard or seen. We move on. At about a mile in we hear sparrows and the sharp tweet of the P2 moving among the mesquite. Ok, sounds like the water theory might be a good one. We walk on, turn one last corner and find…..a sign that says area closed for restoration! There is no artesian well here, no impoundment for wildlife, just a damp depression in the desert soil. I am bummed. We explore the area a little more but leave the area and retrace our steps settling for a nice walk in the desert sans local fauna. Check out the cool old fresh-air potty. Wait, is Wilson in the Women’s Room?
It is just as stinky here as when we came through in 2011. The difference being this time we are just day tripping from Anza Borrego and we can put up with the smell for a few hours while we check out what feathered friends are around. We see many of the usual waterside suspects plus a couple we rarely see; cinnamon teals and burrowing owls. Gambel’s Quails scurry about under the wildlife refuge bird feeder their cute little top-knots bouncing as they go. A large flock of snow geese moves between grain fields and a sheltered pool.
We are in for the day as dirt and sand are swirling. It is pretty much a wash out for hiking and bird watching. I am ok with a quiet day to relax and stroll among “our” wildflower garden.
Just beyond the state park boundary vehicles of all type zip
across the vegetation dotted landscape.
This morning, brightly colored dots dance against the sky and the desert
mountain backdrop. A hand full of powered
parachutes swing and glide above the rugged landscape. It
looks like it might be fun but seems like that big fan and motor strapped to
your back would be distractingly noisy.
To each his own I suppose.
We creep our way back 4 miles of BLM managed wash-boarded dirt road to the trailhead for Ladder and Painted Canyon trails. The lot is pretty full so it doesn’t look like it will be a quiet commune with nature; but, we are here so on we go. Our plan is to hike the ladder trail first so we check out the maps and head out.
The trail begins in a wide wash bordered by steep high walls of clay-like soil. Sweeping swirls and trails of wax-like drips decorate the surfaces. Sand crunches underfoot. Within just a few hundred yards most of those sharing the trail turn off (more on that later) and we find ourselves alone as the wash narrows and begins to twist and turn. We soon discover that the entire area has been sculpted through years into beautifully colored narrow twisting canyons with steep walls between. That is where the ladders come in.
We spot the first set and head up…thankfully it is up the ladder; down ladder is much more nerve racking for me. We move on; twisting and turning and climbing ladders between canyons, admiring intricate shapes and splashes of color as we encounter wildflowers along the way. We are climbing boulders up narrow ravines now…seems like a lot tougher hike than described in blogs. We emerge atop a high ridge overlooking the great desert valley. It is beautiful!
But, the little blue dot on the trail app on Kent’s phone says we are way off trail…any trail! Oops. We relax and take in the view and lunch then decide to move on rather than backtrack. We noodle a bit then choose a somewhat worn path that seems about the right direction. This trail is terrible underfoot but is followable. After a mile or so we descend into a wash with lots of fresh footprints in the sand. It turns out to be Painted Canyon. Alright, we are back into charted territory and enjoy the beautiful stroll back toward the trail head. It was definitely not the path we intended but still a great walk. So, the turn-off that everyone else took just a couple hundred yards in, looks like we should have gone with the crowd. These trails are not simple loops and counterclockwise ended significantly different than clockwise must have. 6 ½ miles instead of 4 ½ but no scrapped knees or twisted ankles. We’d do it again. Who wouldn’t like trails with ladders?
Well sort of. After a
fair amount of route finding and rock scrambling, we find a sheltered cliff
maybe 30 feet tall covered with dripping moss complete with ferns and a frog pond
at its base. About right for this arid
place. It is a peaceful, cool, shaded
spot.
That is what we found at the end of Hellhole Canyon trail in
Anza Borrego SP. It is a difficult last
mile or so and if you are not careful you might miss the falls once you get to
the “top”. The rock scramble back down
is a test for knees and hips too.
Humming birds, hawks, crows, and black throated sparrows entertained us
along the way but we didn’t see any big horn sheep.
It is an outdoor public art gallery in the form of dozens of amazing sculptures dispersed across acres of open desert on both ends of town (Borrego Springs). A street-crossing serpent and big horn sheep. The padre we camped near years ago. Elephants, sloth, javelina, camels, turtles….Very cool.
