Travel is better today and we make it as far Cas El Rancho campground in Deming.  It is a small fenced compound within free-range grazing land.  I climbed out and opened the gate to enter and closed it again behind us, as instructed by the sign on the gate.  As the sun sets, a handful of free-range locals come to visit. 

The next morning some indigenous locals make an appearance, scaled quail.  I love the sounds they make.

Today we pull out of Seminole Canyon.  A brutal headwind slows progress to a maximum of 47 miles an hour with Kent’s foot on the floor.  The resulting gas mileage is 3 mpg.  We are not in any hurry to get anywhere so we hold up in Fort Stockton (Roadrunner RV used to be Parkview RV) for the night after just 138 miles of progress.  Better travel weather is predicted for tomorrow.

Fort Stockton smells bad.  It is oil country and that doesn’t help but this seems different, more like sour water or something.  A little research provides the answer; it is from oil production but is as a result of uncapped, played out wells that are spewing putrid sulfur and ick laden water from deep aquafers forming stinky pools.  Seems no one feels compelled to cap or plug or maybe they can’t but this is surely an ugly, unintended, irresponsible consequence of poorly managed oil production.

235 miles in 5 hours including our first border inspection of many as we move along this southern route, US 90.  We are settling in at Seminole Canyon State Park near Comstock, TX.  It is a dark sky park and a dark electronics park (no cell service and only Mexican channel TV).  We are hoping it will be a good place to view the Super Blood Moon full lunar eclipse Sunday night.  Our eyes adjust as we take in the sounds and sights of the desert in the glow of the nearly full moon.    

Another 5 degrees or so warmer would be nice but it is just about perfect out on the lake.  We meander the shoreline then glide across the smooth wide pool up by the dam.  Canyon Lake is a beautiful body of water with lots of fingers to explore and nice access to the river.  The only downside, it is too developed.  Houses great and small and even greater line the shore and there are three large marinas housing hundreds of boats each.  It has been pretty quiet this past week but it must be a zoo here in the busy season when all those guys hit the water.  Thankfully the Corps of Engineers still manages a couple areas around ramps creating a few parklike oases among the development.  The fishing wasn’t great, it is a little too far from sights like San Antonio and New Braunfels, and we prefer more rustic lake settings.  We are glad to have explored it but it is not likely we will visit again.           

Blacks Barbeque founded in 1932 and made famous in Lockhart just opened a place in New Braunfels.  Tender, smoke infused brisket with a perfect crispy outer layer is magnificent and the beef sausage delicious.  This is certainly among the best dry smoke BBQ we have had.  The sauce is good but almost detracts from the smoker flavor.  The pintos, slaw, and pecan cobbler are all ok but nothing to write home about.  Yep, we would do it again and probably try the smoked turkey (and more brisket of course), the mac and cheese or black eyed peas, and maybe the peach cobbler.

We catch a bit of state history at the old county court house and The Alamo where we happen to catch a pretty good history talk that provides a nice wrap up for our San Antonio time.

We play tourist today as we stroll the River Walk in San Antonio and weave through hundreds of vender stalls at the Market Square. We pretty much get the place to ourselves as crowds are small on this cool gray day.  That is ok by us.  It makes for a relaxing leisurely walk with time to watch the ducks on the channel and check out shop windows along the way.  The market is billed as “as close to Mexico” shopping as you will find in Texas.  I am not sure that prices reflect that; but I know I have not seen as many vividly colored, hand embroidered dresses and pottery anywhere else.  I have trouble passing up the bright hand-crafted flower halos and adorable Peruvian made sweaters with critters on them (so you, Willa) but manage to resist.  Midday munchies and a sweet tooth take us to Mi Tierra Café and Panaderia for some yummy pastries; a crunchy twisted elephant ear, dense pound cake with pecan caramel, a pecan praline and a not-so-Mexican blueberry scone.  We recommend the sweets but skip the coffee.  It is ok but definitely not worth $3.50 a cup.