Toward Helena

From West Yellowstone we wind along the more remote, less visited western border of the park.  We start out through rolling grasslands then enter the Gallatin River Canyon.  Towering cliffs rise on either side for miles before opening up into another wide valley where wheat and potato fields share a patchwork with range land.  We come to the headwaters of the Missouri and the chain of lakes created at the many dams along this stretch of the river.  Home for the next night or two is at White Sandy Campground on the shore of one of those lakes, Hauton Lake.  Maybe a half dozen sites are occupied and it is a very quiet spot, except for the occasional military flyby and a fair number of gulls!

The Great Northern Carousel

Ok, yes, I have ridden this one before.  Kent reminded me after verifying this in our 2014 blog.  I never said I would limit myself to one visit on any carousel!  Today I ride the bear, the bison and big horn sheep are tempting too.  No luck grabbing a brass ring.  Still, it is great fun.  I can’t leave without just one scoop of butter pecan ice cream!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is lunch time and I have seen lots of recommendations for Old Salt Outpost.  It is not just any burger place, they serve local Montana beef.  Bit of trivia, did you know that Montanans eat only 2% Montana beef?  These folks are working to change that.  Our burgers are yummy.

We finish our errands and chores (check out this cute laundromat-those are words I rarely use in the same sentence) then head back to camp to kick back.

An early start

Traffic in Yellowstone around thermal features was pretty awful when we passed through yesterday and the weather forecast for today is rain mid-morning through afternoon and evening.  If we are going to see even the highlights, we have to get an early start.   Up at 5:45 and a quick cup of coffee gets us out the door by 6:15 and puts us at Old Faithful by 7:30. Enroute we spot elk including a cow and two small calves down for a drink.  We check out the posted next-eruption time.  Perfect, just enough time for a leisurely breakfast at the Inn.  Mike and Tracy’s pictures reminded us how cool the old structure is and we feel the need to check it out.  It’s a buffet with food a bit better than average but the cozy setting makes up for anything it lacks.  We are back out in plenty of time for Old Faithful’s show.  Even against a cloud filled sky it is spectacular.  The weather holds off long enough to walk the entire upper basin boardwalk including catching a Daisy geyser eruption.  We make it back to the geyser hill just in time to see Old Faithful a second time.  It looks more powerful from the view on the top boardwalk!  It is misting and still in the 50’s.  We check out the gift shop.  I must have another Yellowstone medallion, a bison this time.  Plans are to check out Grand Prismatic and the Norris Basin thermal area if the crowds aren’t awful.  No such luck, traffic is spilling out of the parking lots as folks are vulturing for spots.  We head home with a couple detours; The Firehole River Canyon Drive, it is spectacular, then a loop along the Madison River, lovely but no elk or bears on that section of the grassy banks today.  The elk from this morning are still out along 20.  It is definitely a favorite spot for them. We are back in camp sipping hot tea to warm up in the rainy and chilly weather.  It’s a great chance to catch up on the blog and naps!

One quick stop as we head up to Glacier NP

Our route to Glacier National Park takes us north from here and we can’t resist a quick stop in Yellowstone.  We head north up the Rockefeller Memorial Parkway through the entire length of Teton National Park then into Yellowstone; first along Yellowstone Lake then the beautiful Yellowstone River valley.  Continuing north we pass through the Hayden Valley before turning west toward our next stop, West Yellowstone.  Along the way, we spot one small herd of bison while still in the Tetons and a number of solitary bulls dotting open grasslands in both of the parks. A small band of cow elk bring on a traffic jamb as they are feeding along the Madison River just east of our destination.  They brought the park rangers out to move things along.  We settle in at Baker’s Hole Campground along 191 in Custer Gallatin National Forest.  There are grizzly bear warnings out!

Kids and grandkids in the Tetons

Mike, Tracy, Willa and Hazel land at Jackson Hole airport, load their plunder into a rental car, and we all make our way to our hangout for the week, our motorhome in Gros Ventre. Hazel takes over Willa’s traditional sleeping cubby back by Grampa and Nana and Willa is thrilled with her spot on the jack-knife sofa (unicorn and rainbow bedding are a big selling point).  Mike and Tracy get the over-cab queen and all is set….cozy but comfy.

We spend a day planning, exploring and settling in.  While Mike gets some recommendations from the Visitor Center Ranger the girls have a great time with the exhibits and trapsing around on the river image projected on the visitor center floor.  It is pretty cool.

Day two we dive in.  Mike, Tracy, Willa and Nana head for the Death Canyon Trail Head.  Cool name, right?  Our destination is the Phelps Lake Overlook.  We spot a black bear and her cub enroute along Moose-Wilson Road.  The trail is a bit challenging with some elevation change and an added mile or so because we have to use overflow parking.  We spend some time soaking in the view of the lake at the top and watching mock (we hope) helicopter rescues below us.  Great first hike, Dad.  Kent and Hazel  enjoyed some chill time at the motorhome.  She caught her afternoon nap.

Checking out town, Jackson.  First, it is playground time.  There are swings and climbing structures and plenty of slides plus a coffee shop not far away.  It is a fun couple hours for kids and adults.   We all work up an appetite and head for the Persephone Bakery where we share a selection of delicious pastries, cakes, and cookies.  There is a stop for pictures under the antler arches along the way. Once we hve gad our fill of goodies, Hazel heads back to camp with us while Willa takes Mom and Dad shopping and sight-seeing.  We hear that there is a horse drawn wagon involved and a stuffie, Rainbow Ruby (a unicorn) comes home with them.   Hazel takes a motorhome shower with Nana.  We get the girls for the evening while Mom and Dad head back into town for a date night.  Win: win all around.

Another hike, this time to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point above Jenny Lake.  We start with a ferry ride then there is a lot of “up”, we sort of expected that with a destination like Inspiration Point!  Willa is anxious to mountain climb – not just walk a trail- and to maybe get to the snow.  Above Hidden Falls she gets at least part of that wish.  The trail gets rocky and steep just perfect for her hands and feet climbing on up to the point.  She is thrilled to meet the beggy trail chipmunks.  She calls them “chicky” and is adamant that she be allowed to adopt one and take it home.  I get in trouble for swatting at them as they try to climb into my backpack and steal food.  They are very people habituated!  Just as we get her to move no an unusually brazen pica scurries right by Willa’s feet in a hurry to stash his mouthful of grass.  We climb a bit higher onto Cascade Canyon trail hoping to see more wildlife as the crowds thin out.  No luck with that but it does take us to an alternative, shorter, less steep return route back to the lake.  Here are fewer hikers so it makes for a perfect place to try out Willa’s rescue chain.  Check out the pic.  Her stated purpose was so the test of us could help Daddy when he got tired carrying Hazel the whole time.  More on its origin later.  The return ferry trip is a welcome opportunity to sit down for a few and by the time we make it to the car everyone is about done for the day.  Hazel was a great sport (Mike too) through all her time in the carrier.  She even caught a bit of a nap.

Beach time!  Lakes here are pretty cold for swimming but Mike gets a recommendation to try String Lake.  It is shallow so about as warm as they come in these parts.  We pack up blankets and towels and lunch and head out, Hazel in the truck with us.  Parking near the lake is an absolute zoo.  We troll the lots several loops until Grampa’s patience gives out.  Mike has dropped Tracy and Willa as he vultures for a spot.  I join them and Kent is off back to camp.  He and Hazel will find alternative entertainment today.  We girls are just claiming our spot on the beach when Mike walks up.  He got a spot in the second row…credit to his practice at parking in the city all those years.  Willa and Tracy build a great sand castle.  Mike takes the Polar Plunge, the only one of us to completely submerge in the “warmer” lake water.  A volunteer ranger comes by to have us move all our stuff to the bear locker.  A bear was sighted just a few hundred yards behind us.  We stash our bags for a half hour until we get the all clear and enjoy a nice picnic lunch.  There is a bit more castle building and some warming in the sun then we wrap it up and head home.

Today we head up to over 10,000 feet on the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village!  After about an hour weather (lightning) delay the aerial tram takes us to 10,450 ft on Rendezvous Mountain.   Clouds shroud the mountain tops and we rise right up into them.  We are all startled when a rock cliff appears seemingly right in our path.  We of course rise just along and above to safely come to a halt on the mountain top.   It is cold in the fog and wind so we duck into Corbet Cabin for a traditional treat, waffles and hot drinks.  We go for one traditional waffle =brown sugar butter and one Belgian= cookie butter, caramel and powdered sugar. So delicious.  The sun breaks through and we head out to explore.   Our goal is the Top of the World trail.  We are still looking for snow to play in but we are still not quite high enough for this time of year.  We have to be content to check out the glaciers above us.  We stroll and take in the view then board the tram for the trip down.  Its clear skies all the way down so views are better than ever.  The grounds in the resort are grassy and a great place to play.  Willa discovers a bungie trampoline.  She is going to try it.  I’d rate it as a somewhat tense but overall fun adventure.  Check out the pics and you be the judge.  We grab some lunch, play a bit longer as Grampa and Nana relax in our Adirondack chairs then we head off with the kids while Mom and Dad try to squeeze in one more hike.  Fun day for all.

Yellowstone day.  Willa is quite the volcano fan. Mike and Tracy have never been to Yellowstone.  Today is the day; they set off to check out the caldera and all the thermal features.  We plan out a fun day for Hazel with us so they can focus on that unique place.   They spend a night at the Yellowstone Inn and trapse all around checking out the sights.  Pictures and their report back say a good time was had by all.  We take Hazel to the beach at Lower Slide Lake.  We throw a lot of rocks to watch them splash.  Splash each other and do some people watching.  She is a bit reluctant to start but really gets into it by time to head home.  Once back home she paints, makes Dad a birthday card, and gets a traditional brown tub bath.  It is a full day for all of us too.

Early birthday for Dad.  Mike jumps in to help make his “cake”, Dutch oven peach cobbler.  It’s a fun way to celebrate and I’d say it came out pretty good.  There were no leftovers.

Nana there is a Moo

Then there was just everyday fun stuff.  Campfires with s’mores and fun stories.  Chalk art. Coloring.  Painting, rocks and on paper.  Crafts, the afore mentioned huge paper chain in particular.  Tillie time/pretend school mostly.  Bocce.  Playball. Camp dishwashing time.  Moose watching walking around camp and out the motorhome window, sometimes even sparring.  Redneck playpen bounce ball: Willa and Hazel in the pickup bed with the tailgate closed.  Kent bounces a tennis ball into the bed where it ricochets around until they catch it and throw it to, at, or purposefully just out of the reach of Grampa. Much giggling ensues.

We had a fantastic week and can’t wait to see them again when we head their way for Hazel’s birthday in October.

 

 

 

Teton National Park on our own

Our site in Gros Ventre is smallish but truck and motorhome do fit and it is level.  We are on a busy road which is not the best thing for noise or for when Willa and Hazel visit.  Still, it will work.  We are in sagebrush plain along the Gros Vontre River and as it turns out, there are frequent moose visits to the campground.  We check it out every morning and often sight them right out of the motorhome windows.

Before the kids arrive and after they leave, Kent and I explore a bit on our own. We grab dinner out one night, pizza at Hand Fire pizza.  The place is a cool remodel of an old theatre and they have space-ship-like giant pizza ovens out in an open kitchen where we can watch our dinner come together.  Plus, the pizza is delicious.  The brownie dessert isn’t quite as good as I envisioned but we did eat it all.

We carve out time for an early wildlife viewing run.  Up well before dawn we are at the first recommended site by 6:15AM, between first light and sunrise.  We spot our first elk in the park as a band of females are just stirring along the river’s edge at Blacktail Pond.  Next, we make our way to the top of signal mountain (the road just reopened) and spot two beautifully antlered bull elk, a bison bull and a mule deer with a rack like neither of us have ever seen before. Check it out.  It is an amazing view of a broad rolling valley brought to us by fault uplift, glaciers and the powerful Snake River.  We continue to several suggested moose and bear viewing sights.  They are not as productive but the drive is still lovely.  Near home at antelope flats we see the local bison herd.  It is a great morning.

We hike around Phelps Lake in the Roosevelt Preserve.  A doe and fawn tolerate our presence long enough for a good look and there is a report of a bear near the visitor center.  We must have walked just feet from him on our way in off the trail.  We check out the soundscape rooms.  In one room, wildlife and wild setting images rotate on four screens accompanied by a sound track.  My mind scrambles to match them.  In the second space, only the sound track plays.  I close my eyes and block out all but those sounds.

One last stop, a living history demonstration.  We stop in at Mormon Row, a preserved and partially restored 1880s settlement.  We make rope, try on period clothes, and play some of the kids’ games. It is a fun stop.  I even get the bug to maybe get involved in living history here or somewhere as we contemplate a more settled life in the coming few years.

Coal-Mesquite divide

One more hike before we head over to Tetons National Park.  It is a bright beautiful morning as we make the drive to Coal Creek trailhead just this side of Teton Pass.  Wispy clouds race across the mountain tops carried by high altitude winds.  We are off on a 3 to 3 ½ mile each way hike back the creek canyon to the cross roads with the Teton Crest trail.   It will take us through nearly 2000 feet elevation change and bring us to, we hope, nice views of the mountains.  The first third of the trail runs along the burbling creek first through pine woods then into thick willow and brush.  We sing to the bears now and again just to be sure they know we are coming.  Next, we climb along a wooded trail up the canyon wall.  The grade seems to last forever.  Once we pass 8000 ft. elevation, we puff a little harder and rest a little more but the walk through the trees is lovely and opens onto a lush meadow with a small creek twisting its way through it.  It is a perfect place for a break and a snack while we decide if we think the anticipated view at the end is worth the energy.  Ok, looks like only another ¼ mile, we are doing it.  Better keep moving though.  Those occasional wispy clouds of this morning are starting to collect up and hint of rain.  We marshal through the final steep stretch and pop up over the divide. Clouds shroud the top-most peak of Grand Teton but the view is worth the climb.  We relax and lunch watching the clouds advance and rise on the mountain tops until it seems wise to head back. Clouds are thickening.  We keep a good pace on our return (down-hill always helps with that) and in one check behind us see the very place we had been standing completely shrouded in dark grey clouds.  Good timing.  We keep moving and make it back to the truck wet with sweat but ahead of the rain.

We had hoped to see moose or maybe bear but no such luck.  Pika scurried on the scree piles near the top of the hike.  We heard but did not see marmots.  Kent spotted a different little rodent fellow – might be a prairie dog, at 8,000 ft?

10,000 ft ….. via chairlift!

We are off to Grand Targhee Resort for another try at a chairlift ride to the summit of Fred’s Mountain. Our plan is to ride up then hike a few miles of trails at the summit to check out the view from a few different angles. The special event is over at the resort and attendance is pretty light.  We grab our lift tickets and climb aboard.  As we are whisked up the mountain, we spot a number of deer.  They’ll be long gone soon.  Downhill bike trails that zig-zag down the slope below us open in less than hour.

The view from atop is a bit hazy but still an impressive look at the Tetons.  We head off on the trail to Mary’s Saddle.  It runs along the ridge so we can keep an eye on the view as the haze (hopefully) burns off.  A precarious start down from the summit on steep, loose rock gives way to a much more manageable path but there are a number of steep sections making the walk seem a lot further than its actual mile.  We are joined on the walk by our high-altitude buddies, marmots and pika. The pika are working hard collecting flowers and grasses and stacking them in large piles to dry in the sun.  This one fellow has two heaps each much bigger than he is. We come upon one nearly black marmot perched in a tree…pretty bear-like isn’t he.  The view from the saddle is spectacular as well.  We hang for a while just taking it all in and hoping the haze will clear a bit more.

We are rested and refreshed and set out on what they label “the easiest” path down, a trail/access road.  It is terrible….loose rock on steep grade much of the distance with nearly no shade.  The sun is blazing. I fall on my butt.  Yuck.  We are glad to get back down.

We have lunch at the slope-side restaurant.  It is delicious: Kent’s BLTA and my mushroom tacos.  A watermelon margarita hits the spot too.  Recharged, we head for the chairlift again. Our ticket is good for as many as 3 trips up and we want to see if it has cleared off.  Another smooth ride up and a short walk and we find it, a not-quite-crystal-clear but marvelous view.  Well worth the trip back up, especially since we rode the lift back down this time!

Our route home takes us back through Driggs and we can’t resist a repeat at the Corner Drug Store Soda Shop.  Kent goes for the perfect chocolate malt again and I their specialty, a lime freeze made with fresh squeezed lime juice.  Yum.

We relax back at camp.  No moose today but a super-friendly, high-energy, chocolate labrador cruises through several times as he explores camp.  I worry he’ll get lost but turns out his family is camping just a couple sites up the road from us.

Whew!

Darby Canyon trail to wind cave, 7 miles with 2024ft elevation change.  The temperature is in the 80s by the time we finish and the sun is blazing.  We are done for the day but glad to have made the trek and glad that we got a pretty early start.

Like most trails from this side of the Tetons, we access the higher slopes by following canyons cut by fast flowing creeks. Today, early in the walk, the trail takes us up the walls of the canyon well above the creek bed.  The views are lovely as we cross meadows interspersed with treed areas and open rocky outcroppings. We first hear the waterfall exiting the cave then spot the opening in the cliffs above us.  The last half mile or so is a steep mix of rock steps and tree root tangle that takes us to just over 8700 feet in elevation.  There is a bit of puffing but we make it.  Folks claim they scale the slope up to the entrance to walk then crawl to the back of the cave where the opening reduces to a couple feet in each direction.  It looks like today water would be running around our feet the whole time. We settle for the gurgle and splash of the falls and the lovely view from below.  We scan high meadows for wildlife both going and returning but none make an appearance.  Guess there are too many places to hide.  It is great to spot whatever is out there but it is even fun to look for them.

The night sky is phenomenal.  Countless stars with a broad sweep of the milky way.  Beautiful!

Ack, a planning miss

We decided, we are going to start with the gondola lift at Targhee and if we need a bigger long-view fix go for the trail.  The resort web page says gondola rides start at 10AM so we have a leisurely morning and head on out.   As we make the final climb of the drive up to the resort, we start seeing signs for pre-paid parking only at the top.  Hum, wonder what that’s about.  I know there is a music festival up here today but nothing said anything about no trail access.  Rats.  A young kid stationed at the parking entrance informs us that there is no public access today (maybe all weekend but he isn’t sure). The entire resort, meaning the entire mountain top, is open just to music festival attendees with prepaid tickets and prepaid parking and I know those tickets have been sold out for weeks.  Ack…  Back down, making alternate plans as we go.

We invoke our backup plan, a hike in Teton Canyon along the south fork of Teton Creek.   We set out along the creek through towering pines with a much lighter understory than other recent hikes.  It is cool and lovely.  There is a fair amount of traffic on the trail but Kent and I are alone on a stretch and we hear a loud huff.

Maybe 100ft to our right along the creek bank are two moose, a mature bull with a good start on a rack and a juvenile.  They browse with an eye on us for a bit before moving on when more hikers arrive.  We get a good look and some nice pictures.  We move on too. Pines give way to wide open mountain meadows backed by majestic cliffs, blanketed with wildflowers, and often cut through by a ribbon of willows lining the banks of smaller streams.  We find a perfectly placed butt rock and relax taking in the view. Kent muses that it seems a perfect moose spot and not 5 minutes later a cow moose emerges from the willows moving nervously and even challenging a pair of hikers who are on the trail fairly close.   She runs at them, not really charging but seemingly telling them not to get any closer then turns and collects up her young calf that has been hidden along the creek.  They both head upslope and disappear into the denser undercover.  All is well and it is a great encounter, for US.

We move on through one more lovely meadow and a lunch stop at the intersection with Devils Staircase trail before we reverse course for a nearly all downhill stroll back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

Amazingly Kent’s lens cover dropped somewhere near the far end of the trail is perched on a post awaiting our return at the trailhead.  Great walk, great views, wonderful wildlife viewing.  Maybe we were meant to take this hike today?

Heading home, right here in downtown Driggs we find the Corner Drug Soda Fountain.  The day just got even better.  Right inside the door we find a small old time counter manned by a cheerful soda jerk busily cleaning a fancy modern multi-head milkshake machine.  She directs us to a touchscreen order entry kiosk with, “isn’t that a great way to do that” (order) she says.  It spits out a printed order and we go back to old time soda fountain.  Methodically she pumps flavors, dips ice cream, blends and serves up first my Purple Monster (huckleberry shake with oreo blended in) then Kent’s chocolate malt.  It’s a fun place with a cool combination of old-time art of hand blended shakes and modern conveniences to make it all easier.  The ‘gal’ behind the counter really makes it all work.  My shake is delicious and Kent says the malt is as good as he has ever had. He reserves the right to continue sampling as he can to see if anyone can beat it.