Bucket List Adventure

We have for many years been in Canada and Alaska but never really seen the Aurora Borealis.  During the summer months the nights are short and sometimes cloudy and we seem to go pretty hard during the day then sleep at night when the “lights” are visible.  Too many times our camping neighbors have asked if we saw the lights last night.  So we decided to take a special trip when the conditions were favorable to see them.  According to the brochure if you stay 3 nights you have a 95% chance of viewing them near Yellowknife, Northwest Territory Canada.  We chose the Blanchford Lake Lodge as our destination.  We checked the phase of the moon and scheduled during the New Moon to avoid the moonglow interference.  We were planning to travel in the southwest this summer and host Willa for a desert adventure during her Spring break so we hurried from Texas to near Las Vegas for our flight.

After several flight adjustments our travel to Yellowknife via Vancouver left much earlier than when we picked the flight but choices to these destinations are pretty limited.  So, we added a hotel stay the night before and caught the 3:30AM shuttle to the airport. We sailed through security and grabbed a fast-food breakfast prior to the flight.  We had plenty of time for lunch in Vancouver due to the early flight, then it was on to Yellowknife with an 8:30PM landing. The airport at Yellowknife amounted to a building with 3 gates(doors) where you walked across the plane parking area.  Glad we kept our coats in the overhead since it was about -4F and windy.

Upon arrival at the hotel we were informed, the kitchen is closed including “bar food” , so it was off into the night in search of Boston Pizza.  Boston Pizza also has a full bar so it was a good find for some weary travelers.  We learned the next morning the “lights” were visible briefly during our dinner.  Seems like our luck is holding true to form.

We were scheduled on the Tindi Air noon flight to the lodge from the “old town” float plane base. When we arrived at Tindi we traded our lower 48 winter gear for the real thing.  Seems part of the “wilderness float(ski) plane” rules require everyone to be in Survival gear and here that means -35F.  Our plane for the trip was a historic/legendary twin Otter.  Before we boarded the aft of the plane was loaded with food and supplies for the lodge including fuel for the generator and snowmobiles.

The flight went without event and was pretty smooth considering our altitude was probably less than 2,000 ft.  We were greeted upon arrival and given a walking tour of the entire facility while our luggage was distributed.

 

Blanchford Lake Lodge has been hosting summer and winter adventurers for decades. One member of our group had been to the lodge 32 years earlier and was fascinated by the current conditions.  Our choice for the adventure was the original cabin built after the lodge itself.  It included sleeping space for up to 7 including the loft, a wood stove for heat and a composting toilet.  It took a little practice but it was never too hot or too cold in the cabin other than a couple of times we stayed away too long and the fire went completely cold.

We watched for lights the first night and learned the next morning they were visible around 3:30AM after we gave up around 2.  Our luck is still holding.

The next night we had clouds move in after midnight so we went on to bed.

The third night the spectacular

 

show started around 9:30PM and lasted until after midnight.  The lodge had buzzers like are used in restaurants to call when your table is ready for those of us in cabins and they promised to knock on doors unless you had the “do not disturb” sign out.  This night the buzzer was jumping and doors were knocked on but we had already noticed the view and were out snapping pictures and enjoying the view.  This was the show we came to see.

The fourth night was not spectacular but still worthy of attention between clouds.

During the days we found ourselves hiking the many trails through the wilderness.  So beautiful and serene.

One afternoon a “boot” hockey game broke out mostly among the Canadians.  Boot hockey is much like sandlot hockey, no skates, self officiated, and the goal at each end was (2)5 gal buckets.  We watched and cheered.

All too soon it was time to leave.  The puzzle Lynn started the 1st day in the lodge was nearing completion but, that joy was left for the incoming adventurers. We received a heartfelt sendoff from the older couple that mostly stayed behind the scenes and were probably the owners of the lodge.

After our flight back to Yellowknife we ventured across Great Slave Lake to see Yellowknife’s Winterfest. Each year volunteers construct an ice castle and figures on the lake.  The only non-ice items I saw were a couple of wooden doors.  The Castle is open for the month of March then demolished and left to melt back into the lake during the spring thaw.  An amazing community event.

After a night in Yellowknife it was back to Las Vegas via Vancouver without incident.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But we are not headed back to the motorhome just yet.

We planned to go pickup Willa for her spring break trip.  Then Mike and Tracy sweetened the pot. “would we like to take care of both girls in Kingston for a week while they take a mini-vacation of their own”.  They got an emphatic yes so after a change of suitcases and a night in Vegas we were NY bound.

 

 

While we were in NY we learned of the sudden closure of Blandford Lake Lodge.  Seems inflation added on top of the pandemic stretched the operation too thin to continue.  Seems a shame.  Really glad it held out till after our trip.

Hot Springs at 87F…nope

Radium Hot Springs is actually inside Kooteney National Park just an hour south of camp and we plan to take a quick soak as we continue our move south.  Change of plans, it is too hot.  We opt instead for a stroll through town and a dip of a different sort, ice cream.  Manicured lawns and golf courses provide too much temptation and draw the local herd of big horn sheep down out of the mountains right into town.  A dozen or so rams pose along the highway then move into a shady place to relax for the afternoon.  It is hard on traffic but great to watch.

Inspections!

We are hauling kayaks and that gets us caught in the snare of aquatic invasive species check points.  Did you know: they have trained dogs to detect zebra mussels?  K9-Major usually works this section of 93 in BC.  She/he is off today but we get her/his card…not only finds mussels but helps detect illegal bear parts, missing persons, firearms, and other evidence.  She has a peer, Kilo, both work as official conservation officers.  

Wild fire recovery

Mother Nature is amazingly resilient.  Our stroll along the fireweed nature rail loops gives us another look at how the wild has recovered from massive wildfires in 2003.  Lodgepole pine with a thick understory for the first century then Engelman spruce that have slowly grown in the lodgepole shade take over and crowd them all out.  Fire can interrupt at any time and it all starts over again.  Forests chart change in centuries, amazing and a bit dwarfing for mere mortals.

One more Canadian National Park: Kootenay

It is Heritage Day Holiday weekend in the western provinces so many Canadians are out enjoying the parks and great weather.  We hang out an extra day in Cochrane with hopes that a move on Monday will allow us to find a first come first serve site at our next stop, Kootenay NP Marble Canyon Campground.

We get to Marble Canyon by 10AM and find a just right site without any trouble, nice.  After a quick set up we hit the trails.  Bridge construction blocks direct access to the Marble Canyon trail so we have to backtrack from Paint Pots trailhead just a few kilometers up the road.  We follow along the bank of the Vermillion River and through a 2003 lightning strike burn area.  New pines are now 10 – 15 feet tall and the slopes are blanketed with wildflowers and berries.  It is perfect bear country.  We do see scat on the trail but no actual bear.  Two miles into the hike we come to the mouth of Marble Canyon.   A short climb brings us up close to the frothing waters of Tokumm Creek and the magnificent slot canyon it has formed as it slices through the bottom of Prospector Valley.  We crisscross the chasm on log bridges as we make our way to the top of the falls.  Roaring water, near vertical canyon walls, towering peaks above us; it is a great walk with spectacular views.  Surprisingly, we have it nearly to ourselves today.  Guess maybe that extra couple miles at the start weeded out lots of folks. 

It is still early so we check out the Paint Pots too.  First Nations Peoples collected red/ochre soil as pigment for all manner of painting; body, clothing, teepees, and rock painting.  Later prospectors collected, dried and ground the red soil for other markets.  Today this vivid red soil is disturbed only by hikers as we walk beside trickling streams, still pools, and marshland to admire this remarkable place.

Happy feet.  I cool my toes in the very cold Vermillion River.                  

Willa’s first stay at Grandpa and Nana’s house!

Mike and Tracy carved out over a week to come see us here in the Canadian Rockies.  We are very excited.  At baggage claim in the Calgary airport we anxiously await their arrival.  Any minute now!  There they are, Willa’s little head peeking around Dad’s from her perch in the carrier.  What a smile.  Makes the heart melt!  Greetings all around then we gather up luggage and head for camp, Banff Tunnel Mountain 1 campground site K57.  It is a quiet site on the corner of the loop and backed up to a grassy power right of way.  Pretty good odds for animal viewing!        

There are places to go and things to see

An overlook high on the bluffs above the valley with a great look at Hoodoos and a magnificent view of the meandering Bow River is an easy stroll from camp.  We see our first elk contentedly grazing before we even get out of camp.  We had to cross the road to keep our distance.  Once in the open it is pretty windy but still nice to be out so we extend the walk out through a forested area.  A doe and two fawns make an appearance.  We put in about 3.7 miles our first full day.  Time to chill in camp for the evening.  A Coyote makes its way through the tall grass just beyond our site. 

Mountains encircle Lake Minnewanka, beautiful.  Grandpa has Willa in the carrier as we venture out Stewart Canyon trail.  The hike begins high above the creek as it tumbles its way to the lake.  We continue to a place where a side creek allows the kids to get down to the cold snow melt waters.  Willa hangs out with Grandpa and Nana exploring the rocky streambed, snacking, and moving rocks, because they are there.  This is a beautiful quiet place with the smell of pine along with the sight and gurgle of fast-moving water just the right distance away.  Mike shoulders the load heading back to the lake.   We are greeted by a VERY friendly golden mantled ground squirrel as we wrap up our lake time.  It is early, we head into Banff to check out some shops and maybe find a nice café with street-side dining to relax.  We stumble upon a puppet show put on by the National Park.  It is all about stewardship but told through the life of a baby black bear who got separated from its Mom and ultimately reunited.  Willa’s attention is alternately drawn to the puppets and the live ukulele player who stands nearby.  It is well done and lots of fun.  Everyone gets the munchies and we push Friday homemade Pizza night to Saturday and set out in search of a restaurant.  It takes a bit of looking but we settle on Park Distillery.  We find of lots of fun cocktails mixed with their own gin, vodka, and rye and sample a few.  To our great surprise, they also have a pretty broad vegan menu….winner all around.  It is a lovely end to a great day.            

Despite a questionable forecast we pack up to head for Boom Lake. Next camping trip Willa will have her own pack, she tried Mom’s today but it’s a bit too much!

Boom Lake

The trail includes a fair amount of uphill but not too taxing then opens up onto a beautiful alpine lake ringed by mountains with a large section of grey boulder, talus slope.  Bright sun would have made the view perfect but it isn’t to shabby even on this grey cool day.  We soak in the beauty, lunch, and relax until the clouds start to spit.  Tracy bundles Willa up like a little cocoon and she naps against Mike’s back as we head back to the trailhead.  Thunder in the distance and periods of pretty heavy rain urge us to make better time then our stroll out to the lake.  We are glad for the warm dry car after 6.8-mile roundtrip.       

Johnson Canyon trail is a signature hike for Banff park.  They see a million visitors on this trail every year and we know it’ll be a zoo but we just have to see it.  Our plan is to go on out to ink pots with the anticipation that crowds will thin out as the distance and difficulty increase.  Even with a pretty early start we are turned away at the main lot but find parking just ¼ mile up the road.  No problem…Willa is loaded up.  Thanks for the ride Daddy Sherpa.  Let’s go.  It is beautiful…pretty crowded especially at falls overlooks but manageable.  Crowds thin as we move above the top of the falls and we nearly have the trail to ourselves as we move toward the ink pots. There is a lot of uphill!  Trees thin and our view opens up to the broad Johnson Creek upper canyon and the braided flow path of the creek.  Winding paths and foot bridges crisscross between still pools where springs bubble up to form concentric rings in the silty bottoms, the ink pots.   We relax, explore, and lunch before heading back.  Willa put in some more walking miles, checked out wild flowers, and got close but not quite in the cold water.  It is a full day, 8.7 miles round trip, but we are glad we included the quieter stretch out to the ink pots.   Oh yeah, we spotted a grizzly bear on the drive out to the trailhead.  Nice bonus.

The view from above. Today we take the Banff Gondola up Mt Sulfur.  Wow.  The ride is fun and the view fantastic and includes six different mountain ranges.  We check out the open-air lounge, walk the peak trail, and sample café fare at a sunny table with a wonderful view.  Ewe and baby bighorn sheep make a perfectly timed appearance so we get an up-close look.  Back home, it is hammock time and a chance for a different view of camp; out the MH window.

The Icefields Parkway, magnificent views in route to The Icefields Discovery Center and tomorrow’s Columbia Icefields Experience and the Skywalk.  Camp is not exactly a remote pristine natural setting; it is the paved lot at the Icefield Center.  But the view is wonderful and at night when traffic and people noises die down we are within earshot of the cracking and crashing as pieces naturally cleave off the five glaciers that drape the mountains around us.  Plus, it puts us close to the start point of our excursion onto the glacier tomorrow.  We learn about Katabatic winds generated as ice-chilled air slides down off the glaciers and sweeps across the land, we now know that this icefield includes snow dome,

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a hydrological apex, which feeds melt water to three oceans (Atlantic, Artic and Pacific), we see unrefutable proof that the earth is warming as evidenced by accelerating retreat of nearly all of the Canadian Rockies glaciers, including the Athabasca glacier we will walk on tomorrow.       

Layer up then load up.  First a bus then this huge crawler that moves across the steep slopes (up to 32 degrees) of moraine then out onto Athabasca Glacier.   The tires are nearly as tall as a person and the ride is a bit rough but it is an exciting start to the journey.   The day is a little grey and the cold wind is howling as we climb out onto the ice.  Yikes, it is cold but we have lots of clothes on and head out to explore.  Willa even has her felt shoe-mittens on!  We adults slowly pick our way across the wet ice as it is slick underfoot but Willa is anxious to move.  We get in some walking, lots of pictures, sample the glacier melt water, and admire the view for a bit.  The cold sinks in as feet are wet and the unsure footing is a bit stressful.  Time to head back to the warmth and relative safety of our huge tired creeper and the next part of the adventure, a skywalk 981 feet above the Sunwapta River nestled among the towering mountains. 

A walkway leads toward a sweeping cantilevered arc over the river valley.  It is lined with signage and a great audio tour that provide lots of info about geology, glaciers, wildlife, and climate.  There are more fantastic views.  We are out of the cold wind plus warmed by the now brightly shinning afternoon sun.  We make it a mostly leisurely stroll with a bit of stress for Tracy.  Heights are not really her thing.  Come to think of it, she has been quite the trooper on that account this entire trip.  Willa alternates napping and checking out the views.     We dawdle on the drive off the icefield parkway.  Willa rides with Grandpa and Nana so Mom and Dad can check out some overlooks and short trails.  Our first surprise, a great look at a grizzly bear enjoying berries.  We stop and watch as he munches contentedly.  Later, big horn sheep make a showing along the roadside.  Mike and Tracy check out Bridal Veil falls.  We picnic at Bow Lake then head on to Cochrane as the kids return flight looms near.  

There is fun time in camp

We are chilling in camp Willa tightly gripping the nearest available finger and practicing her walking — something she did A LOT of this week.   “A bear”, I hear Tracy call out.  No way, I think and assume she is messing with me.  Nope!  It is definitely a bear intently devouring berries in the site right next to us.  He seems unfazed by people watching and we get to watch for quite some time before he moves on, in search of another tasty berry patch.  What a great start to the day.  We hang out in camp relaxing with the only interruptions being a rousing game of bocce (tall grass, mud puddles, tire ruts and tree roots – some unusual course challenges)

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and the fun of watching Willa with a few toys we found in the motorhome: a purse full of bling from great grandma Wasik, crayons, and the airport Mike played with as a kid.   We hang out as Mike gets his campfire cook thing on.  By the time the week is over he gets in a good bit of open fire cooking…..yummy.   He chars eggplant and builds a great bed of coals for our Dutch oven supper.   We end our day with a herd of cow and young elk moving just past camp.  Yearling males play-spar and the youngest members run and jump among the adults.  Good night.

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We are chilling after the Johnston Canyon hike and the elk move right through camp.  They peacefully graze for over an hour all around us sometimes within 7 meters of the picnic table.  Who needs TV or internet when we have this kind of live entertainment?!­­ 

Camp cooking is a highlight.  Grilled portabella burgers and ear corn.  Veggie burritos.  Homemade pizza…Pizza Friday on Saturday!  Dutch oven vegan chili.  Richly smoky baba ghanoush made with open-fire charred eggplant.  Grilled cauliflower steaks that add to a hearty quinoa vegie stir.  Pineapple/tofu kabobs with grilled sweet potato fries.  Homemade rustic (read lumpy ‘cause no super blender) hummus.  Potato leek soup.  Eggplant marinara spaghetti.  Charred jalapeno that add flavor to many dishes.  S’mores.  Blueberry pie-iron pies.  Thanks Mike, for all the open fire cooking and the delicious contributions to every meal.

Willa takes great delight in the dogs around camp.  She masters woof woof whenever they make an appearance.  Elk and bighorn sheep illicit a similar reaction.  It is great fun to watch.  She and I investigate my medallions every morning and that is where she learned more animal sounds:  “meow”, actually her own adorable version and a variation of cluck cluck for chickens.  All so very cute!    

Yikes, this IS a busy place

Rangers at both Glacier and Yoho warned us that it is high season in Lake Louise.  Day use area parking is full by 7 in the morning they say and shuttle bus lines are hours long.  No way, I say, it can’t be that busy!  Wrong.  We just want to stop for fuel but flagmen are actually at the exit off 1 directing traffic to get back on.  Town is gridlocked and they won’t let anyone else off.  Hey, not even to buy fuel?  Ok, take the first right, get fuel, and head back out.  Believe me, you don’t want to go into town.   The line for diesel is about half an hour after which we gladly take the traffic director’s advice and head on to Banff.  We register and settle into a nice site with open area beyond it, perfect for wildlife watching. 

After a couple hours to recoup we risk a foray into downtown Banff to replenish groceries.  It is a touristy town so lots of pedestrians to weave our way through but the grocery has a parking lot so we don’t have to fight that battle and they have lots of cashiers working.  It takes forever to find everything in an unfamiliar store but eventually we are headed back home.  Time for a relaxing dinner including S’mores of course and unwinding with a nice glass of wine.  Banff is definitely a little less zooie than Lake Louise but timing will be key in enjoying this beautiful area….early mornings and evenings are likely the way to go.  We shall see.  Mike, Tracy and Willa arrive tomorrow.   Hurray!