Meat Cove, Nova Scotia
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Most northern settlement (in Nova Scotia)
About 50 miles of curly paved road that included several sections of 12-13% grade. Then 15 miles or so of curly frost heaved road with a wait for a follower truck in the construction zone, they were paving! The last 5 miles was gravel, not awful but some wash-boardy spots. In all,Kent was pretty glad we were in the Miata not the motorhome.
The destination? A tiny village of 10 homes or so called Meat Cove. It is much more picturesque than its name might invoke. The locals maintain some trails for visitors so we took the high trail to the ridge above town. It was a great view of the cove and the other headlands up and down the coast. Bonus, we found wild blueberries up there. That was about it for Meat Cove.
We passed through Capstick (really just a few houses along the road) andBay St.Lawrence(a fishing town with many of the colorful boats tucked in their working harbor).
Wild life count for the day: two moose at FrenchLake. I think it was the mom and junior from yesterday. A fleeting glimpse of a bull near Benji Lake. Two eagles riding the last few thermals late in the day.
Today turned out to be moose day
The plan, check out the far end of Cabot Trail toward Ingonish. The drive included probably 15 overlooks to check out ocean shore views and deep wooded valleys. We hiked to a look-off over a beautiful fresh water lake separated from the salty seas by a thin strand of beach. Another walk took us out Middle Head for some rugged open ocean views. The working harbors in Heidi Cove and Ingonish were filled with colorful lobster and fishing boats safely tucked behind mammoth stone seawalls. With a couple hundred pictures and some tasty locally made pastry we headed home.
Just when you aren’t looking, the moose show up. Four of them.
A cow, minding her own business along the wooded roadside near the Benji Lake trailhead (yes, the same lake where we came up mooseless days ago)
A bull moose, also along the roadside. I don’t think he will get the ladies this year though. His rack wasn’t much bigger than his ears.
A cow and calf. We saw Mom first. She looked a little antsy and soon we saw why. Junior was back in the bushes a little further. We had stopped along the roadside and she acted like she would come at us. Ultimately though, she was more interested in urging the youngster off into the bush with her.
It was a good moose day!
Close the day out with a sunset over the ocean (from a roadside pull-off this time) and a bald eagle fly over. It’s all ok by me.
A little further into the Park
The Cabot trail hugs the cliff side and winds along the Gulf of St Lawrence. Every turn brings a wonderful view. This morning that included a pod of pilot whales not far off shore. Pods can include hundreds of individuals. This one was maybe 20 or so but still great to see. I hope we see them again. A taste of local history, Scottish. We strolled a trail to the Lone Shieling, a replica of a herders hut from years gone by. The hut lies in deep old growth maple forest, one of few of these forests left on the continent.
The Rusty Anchor
A clear ocean view from blue painted picnic tables under the bright sun with a cool ocean breeze. The setting was perfect and the food quite tasty: Fish cakes with wonderful chutney for me and fish (sole) and chips forKent.
Sunset on Skyline trail
Backdrop: every trailhead includes a sign reminding hikers how to act when encountering coyotes, moose and bear. No biggy. We have heard it all before…when do you fight? Play dead? Hide behind something? We know how to take care of ourselves. Plus, the bear spray is in my backpack just for good measure. So, off on the trail for sunset over the ocean.
A well maintained trail across open heather fields, poplar thickets, and through groves of salt stunted pine. No wildlife that we had hoped for/expected but some more of the Cape Breton signature cliffside views from numerous rocky heads that jut into the sea.
About three miles into the walk we reach the crest of the last headland. Stretching out in front of us is an elaborate, stepped boardwalk. It lies right against the soil and is broken into dozens of terraced platforms dotted with benches. It blends wonderfully into the headland and invites us to take a seat and wait for the show.
The wind blows. The evening cools. It is a subtle sunset, nothing too showy. Still, nature can draw you right in.
Now, time to boogie out of here before it gets too dark and the local critters come out. Back on the main trail; this part is flat and well groomed. We set a quick pace. Hearing is on high alert. Peripheral vision is in overdrive. I admit a fleeting thought that maybe this wasn’t the greatest idea that we ever had. But, all ended well. We were back at the car with still a little light of dusk remaining. If we passed critters, we never knew it and I hope we didn’t offend them. It was a great night for us.
Throughout the day we squeezed in a little more whale watching (unfortunately not more whale seeing) and spotted a moose quite well camouflaged in the trees along the road.
Cabot Trail Day one: the search for a moose
We got the skinny from the Ranger for the best places for moose sightings. Off we go. Before long there is a fleeting glimpse of a big brown moose butt disappearing into the trees along the road. Not a very satisfing sighting. We continue on.
First stop, the trail to Benji Lake. It was an easy walk through low poplar and pine. We spotted the lake over the last rise and slowly, quietly eased onto the boardwalk. Nothing! For half an hour we watched. A few ducks made a showing but no moose. Bummers.
Stop two: the Bog hike. Sounds like a place where moose might be, right? Mosquitoes too? We spied some pretty cool orchid-like swamp flowers. No mosquitoes (thankfully) but no moose either.
Stop three: French lake. Bingo! A cow moose contently munching on pond grass. We stayed and watched a while. They are certainly noisy eaters.
Heading for the Cabot Trail
A magnificent sendoff
We hung around at Whycocomagh to see if the eagles would come out again this morning. We were not disappointed. It cleared earlier so the thermals must have been perfect because they gave quite the show.
One, two, three…lots of them are juveniles making huge loops as they practice gliding. Four five six…all the way to 36 eagles.
They didn’t move on right away so we saw as many as 10 in the space right above us at once. It was a mixture of Blue Angle like graceful maneuvers and Nascar-like bump drafting. Sometimes they crossed paths and matched huge sweeping turns like a choreographed show. Other times they dove at one another and swooped in close behind to disrupt the airflow off each others wings. Then they would tumble and fall for a second or two before returning gracefully to soaring flight. All the while, we could hear them call and talk to one another. It was awesome to just sit in camp and hear Eagle s call and talk in the way we usually hear a Robin or a blue jay call. I wonder if that ever gets old.
Intricate rivulets across moss draped stone
Egypt Falls Cape Breton NS.
The trail is straight AND straight down. It has some loose rock and a few slippery spots but manageable. Encounter stage two of a Canadian off-the-beaten-path trail. A rope is tied along the side of the trail. It is knotted to trees along the way, really pretty well done by someone. It is the guide rope to allow us to maneuver the really steep sections. We scramble and climb on well placed roots and rocks to make it to the floor of the steep mountain valley. The waterfalls that greet us are beautiful. It has rained recently and the flow spreads across the wide stone wall. Ferns and tufts of rich green grass dot the ledges and pool edges. The water is cool and the air hangs with moisture all around this place. We stay a while.