Wettest hike ever!

The weather forecast doesn’t look great but today is the only day we can get the water taxi to Beausoleil Island of the Georgian Bay Island National Park.  We pack water, snacks, fleece, windbreakers and rain slickers and head for the dock.  Our Captain greets us in great spirits with a forecast of mid-afternoon showers…along with the comment they had a “torrential downpour” out there yesterday.

Eleven in total pile onto the flat bottom, open sided shuttle boat and don our fashionable bright orange life jackets. A quick nature talk forewarns of Massassauga rattlesnakes, a black bear sow and twin cubs, and a mama moose and her little one.  No problem.  Hope we see one or all.   The motor jumps to life and off we go.  There is a light mist that stings against my skin when we are at speed.  Fifteen minutes and we are climbing off the boat.

We are at the North end of the island.   Magnificent boulders of the Canadian Shield leap out of the water.  Lichen and moss cover the pink and gray shapes.  Trees and shrubs erupt from cracks and any where else they can find a toehold.  Visibility clears as we start around the Cambrian trail where there are lovely vistas of the surrounding islands of the archipelago.  We drop into an area of low brush.  Mosquitoes immediately swarm us buzzing everywhere.  Yuck.  Oh yeah, and it starts to sprinkle.  We walk on through the lush undergrowth (among its annoying residents) protected from the intensifying rain by the thick canopy.  The DEET comes out, ok that’s better.  Boardwalks protect the marshiest ground.  It is soggy but lovely.

The rain lets up as we begin to climb back up onto the enormous rocks nearing Fairy trailhead and the route toward Fairy Lake.  Sprinkles start and stop as we move along the gigantic rock outcroppings.  This is ancient metamorphic rock that bears the scars of glaciers that have moved across it.  Pretty amazing.

The rain stops. From our rocky perch we see Fairy Lake, still and silent; ringed by the contrasting colors of rock and vegetation that also reflect in the surface.  A beaver hut rises above the surface.  Our reverie is short lived as droplets disturb the surface.  Rain intensifies and we look for shelter, Kent one way and I the other.  I hug close to the trunk of a mighty pine and appreciate the protection of it’s boughs as the rain falls in sheets.  The rain eases and we both emerge to head on down the trail.  This walk along Fairly Lake is renowned as one of the prettiest on the island.  Looks lovely to me.  Sprinkles start and stop as we pick our way through puddles, squishy moss, and rising water back toward the pick-up point taking a little time to enjoy the peace and beauty along the way.  A Great Blue and a Loon family make appearances.

Our taxi arrives and we are on our way back home. A bit of sunshine would have made this place easier to enjoy but I’m glad we didn’t miss the opportunity to see it even in the pouring rain.

Toronto traffic

Today’s drive took us from the southern suburbs to the north side of town. There is a tangle of multilane express routes many of which are under construction.  Add a few sprinkles of rain and some 6 ½ million people and even with a Garmin it wasn’t a flawless drive.  Not terrible though, only one U-turn.

Our new home is Bells Falls Campground in Waubaushene Ontario.  It is near Georgian Bay Islands National Park and a bunch of historic sites.  We got settled in just in time for the skies to open up.  Water surrounds the motor home like a moat.

Illumination

Tonight we check out the new LED lights on the falls and the fireworks show.

Folks claim that best views are from the Canada side so we grab our passports and a jacket and head for Rainbow Bridge.

The US falls are brilliantly lit by the setting sun.  We get a glimpse or two of nature’s light show as rainbows come and go in the mist that billows into the gorge.  A queue of 10 or so creates a short wait at Canadian customs but all goes smoothly.  We claim a good spot in view of both falls and settle in the wait for dark.  We pass the time listening to a local band in the plaza below and watching zipliners soar through the gorge.

It is 9PM. Both falls are brightening, just white light for now.  As the sky darkens, colors appear and the water glows red, blue, green and gold.

The deep blue is my favorite.  9:45; BOOM, the test charge for the fireworks display echoes off the gorge walls.  It won’t be long now.

 

Lights on both falls drop to a pale blue and the pyrotechnics begin. It is not a huge show but with this backdrop it is still impressive.  The air is still and smoke collects in the basin between the falls filtering the light of the final charges.  Happy 150th Canada.  Nicely done.  It is a great view from your side.

 

Rainbow Bridge US pedestrian customs is backed up a bit but our return to the US goes as smoothly as our departure

It’s why we are here!

Today it’s off to Niagara Falls.  By 10AM we are parking the car and hitting the trail that traces the cliff tops of the Niagara River Gorge toward the falls.  At first it is quiet and peaceful with panoramic views of Canada across the river far below.  As we pass under Rainbow Bridge the roar of the falls reaches us.  We walk on. Crowds thicken a bit and the familiar bar guardrails begin.  The roar grows louder and wind lifted spray bathes us all even here at the top of the falls.  It is the kind of place that just puts one in awe of nature.  There is a lot of development here but the falls can still overpower all that man puts up to compete with it.

Color coded ponchos are everywhere. Every 15 minutes a boat jammed full of blue (Maid of the Mist, USA) or red (Hornblower, CA) bug-sized dots makes to loop from dock to just below Horseshoe Falls to bathe its passengers in the famous mist.  Throngs of yellow dots wander the scaffolding and decks along the gorge wall beside both falls to get their fix of both mist and sometimes actual splash as water thunders onto the rocks beside them.  A four strand zip line sweeps along the Canadian shore providing what I am sure are fantastic views (not that I have any interest in experiencing that first hand).

It is much more peaceful again as we wander on around Goat Island to check out the magnificent Canadian Rapids and Three Sisters Islands.

No trip to the Falls is complete without a look from the other side.  We walk Rainbow Bridge and the Canadian gorge rim for wonderful views of both falls.  They do have the better line of sight.  It is only 3PM and wind driven rain pelts us as we return across the bridge.  Maybe we will come back tomorrow evening for the lighted views and fireworks.

 

One last stop, an elevator ride down to the gorge floor to explore the remnants of the Schoellkopf Power station. Two-thirds of this early (1904) power generating station was destroyed by rock slides in 1956.  It is a tribute to both human ingenuity and tenacity in harnessing the power of nature and to nature’s regular reminders that she is really the one in charge and if you mess with her too much she will repay in equal or better measure.  This elevator provides access to the maintenance facility for the Maid(s) of the Mist.   A huge 220 ton crane lifts the boats to dry dock right here in the gorge where they are battened down for the winter.

Back into the USA!

Not surprisingly, we got a visit from the ag inspection guy at the border. We are moving though the fruit belt in both countries and they are a bit more touchy on fresh veggies and fruit than some crossings.  I had to resist buying all that beautiful fruit and produce on the way through BC.  Bummers.  But, he checked out the frig, found nothing, and sent us on our way.

Wow is this valley built up

The Okanogan Valley British Columbia.  This must be where the Vancouverites come to play.  Mega homes dot the high bluffs above the river and dense thickets of condos and townhomes clog the riverbanks and lakeshores in town.  It was a beautiful place that brought them all here but what it has grown to be doesn’t appeal to me so much.  From Verona to Kelowna to Penticton you could shop for weeks and eat at a different restaurant for every meal.  They still squeeze in small vineyards; enough to support some 150 wineries.

A twisty trek up the hillsides in Summerland took us to Summerland Sweets, a maker of fruit based candies, syrups, honey, jams, and other stuff. We tasted more stuff than I can even remember and brought home an assortment of goodies: Boysenberry syrup, Pure Peach jam and fruit jelly candies.

Mead instead of wine

I did do a bit of tasting but chose a vintage based on honey rather than grapes.  Planet Bee Honey Farm has dozens of variations on straight fermented honey.  I tried half a dozen ranging from sour cherry to oak aged wildflower with cardamom.  Each was a fun taste but I ended up with the classic mead as well as a jar of the wildflower honey it is based upon.

We checked out the Davidson orchard that is set up as sort of a family destination to get “out on the farm”. Pumpkin Butter Band Comp_7941 Scarecrow people with pumpkin parts made up the Pumpkin Butter Band and other greeters.  fueloilcows_7937A hilarious fuel oil tank cow and bull stood guard over the entrance to the playground.  It was all very cute.

In the orchard they trellise the apple trees.  It looks very strange but must be a way to deal with heavy snow fall and to allow harvesting entirely from the ground.  The honey crisp are just ripe and delicious.  September is sweet corn time here.  We bought a couple ears of peaches and cream (their version of bicolor) and it was the first ear corn of the season for us and was fantastic.  Of course they had a bakery that featured goods made with their local fruit.  My plum cake was wonderful as was Kent’s carrot cake.

A unique twist on farm to table

Poppadoms Indian restaurant in Kelowna.  I can’t recall the actual names of anything we tried.  I had a potato filled crepe served with a lentil stew and two wonderful chutneys. Kent had halibut again but this time grilled and served with rice and a mustard chutney.  Delicious