In the Deep Creek area of the Smokys, a wide well groomed trail follows along a boulder strewn creek.   This is billed as an easy walk to three falls with a short moderate section.  Great for families.  The first waterfall was in just .2 miles and cascaded across moss covered rock.  The next fall, was just another half mile or so, no problem.  It was lovely as well.  We relaxed and listened to tumbling waters for a few.  Then on we go, up!  Not terribly steep but a long steady climb.  Leaves rustled under our feet and clattered down through the trees.  The solitude made the work worth it.  We caught our breath for a few, headed back down the ridge and stopped along the creek for a relaxing lunch.  We crossed the creek and followed the sign, 1.2 miles to the last set of falls.  Cool.  One switchback and the bridal trail split off.  Our being on foot, we interpreted that to mean we go the other way..the one for foot traffic.  Wrong.  It seemed odd, the trail immediately got very steep.  It was rocky and we clambered over fallen trees.  This really didn’t look like the stroll they billed it as!  We pushed on.  The trail got steeper.  We actually had to hold onto trees to scramble up the slope.  We emerged on a narrow ridge.  This did not look like waterfall territory.  Guess what.  It is not.  A bit further along the ridge the trail ended in a clearing where three simple gravestones stood; Violet, Theodore and Guy Wiggins.  What a peaceful setting.

But, no waterfall.  We scrambled down the slopes and flung our somewhat rubbery, tired legs over the fallen logs.  Back at the junction with the bridal trail we decided to bag it.  Two waterfalls will have to do.  But no, that’s not how it worked out.  To make a long story shorter, we took a different trail to the third falls.  It too was beautiful.  The leaves swirl and dance as the water sweeps them along.  I am a sucker for waterfalls, what can I say?!

Weekends in the fall in North Carolina….aaaaack.  Leaf peeping plus wildlife watching equal an endless flow of distracted, inconsiderate drivers.  We got out of the Cataloochee Valley just as grid lock was setting in around the Elk viewing area.  We bailed for the day last Sunday when the traffic on the Blue Ridge got crazy.  Traffic on the entire 11 mile loop at Cades Cove was stop and go bumper to bumper even on Monday.

Just know, it is SO worth seeing but make it a weekday trip if at all possible, check out some lesser known areas, and no matter what, bring a lot of patience.  It is really pretty cool that so many folks want to be part of this spectacular season and these wondrous places.

The drive was a bit of a challenge (somewhat of a recurring theme in the Appalachians) but oh, what a reward at the end.  The Cataloochee Valley is a remote section on the eastern side of the Great Smoky Mountains.  Reds, oranges and yellows draped across the mountains sides looking like dancing flames in the bright sun.   Awesome.

Then we got to meet some of the famous locals, a bull Elk with a trophy rack and his harem.  They posed a little and the bull stared down a couple younger males but mostly they just went about noshing down on whatever they could find to fatten up for winter.  They wandered to within about 50 yards of us.

A bit further along we found another bull, eight or ten cows and two first-fall babies.  One even still had its spots.  More posing and noshing and some napping in the sun.  There were even a couple bugles from this fellow.  It makes the place feel a little more complete.

About 50 Elk from Colorado and Canada were reintroduced in this valley of the Park starting in 2002.  There are about 150 of them now.  It looks like the valley suits them.

We wondered into the arts district in Asheville and found a fantastic bakery.  They had so many choices that we had to go back twice and still only sampled a few: cinnamon rolls, granola muffins and fruit scones.  Coffee was really smooth as well.  It was a great find.  The old warehouse district looks to be a work in progress but it also houses art studios, galleries, and lots of breweries and clubs.

Stone carvings of cherubs and gargoyles.  A three story spiral marble staircase with huge wrought iron chandeliers.  Tapestries.  A pipe organ.  Acres of white oak flooring and seemingly endless walnut and oak woodwork.  Formal gardens and rambling paths through azaleas and rhododendron.  The Biltmore Estate is definitely a bit over the top.

Then there is the Biltmore winery.  I tasted maybe 10 (they have a very generous tasting table).  They definitely do white better than red.  We ended up bringing a couple bottles home.

A truly new experience, the Laughing Seed restaurant in Asheville.   Indonesian/Indian vegetarian.  The most ordinary thing we ate was roasted pepper hummus!  I tried Indian Pankora (the waitress described it as garbanzo bean hush puppies with vegetables and curry) and a marvelous herb/lentil soup.  Kent’s quesadilla only looked like the Mexican dish…it had yams, potatoes, roasted red peppers, plus some other vegetables with lots of curry and other interesting spices.  It was topped off with some good ole jack cheese.  We are definitely still meat eaters but it was a great experiment

That is how many miles of the Parkway that we took the motorhome on (MP 61 to 386).  All that and Kent only had to back out of two overlooks!    We have spent two weeks along here.  I think that the southern end is the prettiest but it is the busiest too.

Kent motored us smoothly through spiral curves and tunnel after tunnel.  Views were spectacular.   As we neared the top of Mt Pisgah we began to see pickup trucks along the side of the road.  Lots of them.   Guys wearing blaze orange hats were milling around at overlooks.  Some of them carried tracking antenna.  What was up?    Then we heard it, the baying hounds.  Hey, how can they be bear hunting right here in the Park?   What a bummer for an otherwise beautiful day.

Footnote: the next day the national forest webpage announced back country closure all around Mt Pisgah because of aggressive bears stealing food and ransacking backcountry camps.   It looks like the Park had sent the orange hats in to track down the offending bears.  So sad.

Steep ravines crossing areas of granite and quartz result in many waterfalls.   We have been to the top and to the bottom at the plunge pool at Linville Falls.    Roots, rocks and a bit of mud; they were classic waterfalls trails.  It is a beautiful stop.