Lake Mojave

On the water

Mornings have been coolish and the sky a brilliant blue making it perfect boating weather, as long as we remember the sun screen.   We have been out two mornings so far.  The big horn sheep have not shown themselves yet and fishing has not been impressive, just two small bluegill between us. Looks like we might need to try different bait/lures and maybe get out a bit earlier.  We’ll see.

Out on the trails

Canyon trail.

It is a short walk but pretty great from a wildlife standpoint.  First, we actually stopped in the middle of the dirt access road to watch this huge spider, tarantula I’m pretty sure, cross the road.

 

 

On the trail, we check out great pictographs near the canyon entrance then boulder climb back the canyon to explore.

 

 

 

Moseying along in the rock shadows we spot a desert tortoise.  It is one of only two or three of these threatened fellows we have ever seen in the wild.  Very cool.

 

 

 

Fisherman’s Trail

I enjoy trails that are walk-out right from camp without having to drive anywhere.  This trail departs from behind the boat maintenance area (kinda weird) and follows the lake shoreline to a lovely sandy cove. Along the way we pass two backwater ponds where ducks, coots and herons are hanging out.  There are views of the marina and toward the end, out over the lake toward the dam.  I’ll likely take this walk again.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Our trip into the park yesterday told us that even in October this place is busy mid-day.  So, we set the alarm for 6:45AM.  It is in the mid-20s and first light glints off the heavy frost on everything.  Distant mountain tops in all directions sport a new dusting of snow creating a perfect backdrop for fall colors.  Off we go.  We are in the park and at Rainbow point by 9AM.  Parking is no problem, yeah.  We have lots of clothes with us and the sun is toasty.  We set out to explore.

We start with views from the rim beginning at the furthest stop on the scenic drive, Yovimpa and Rainbow Points, then moving in toward the main amphitheater.   Views are absolutely amazing and different from every angle and every stop.  On this far end of the canyon it is all the work of nature.  The hordes of tromping boots are mostly held up on the rim; minimizing trail scars among the hoodoos below. Between the overlooks the bristlecone pine loop takes us past these hardy ancient pines that manage to survive in the cold, wind, scarce water and rocky ground above 9000 ft.  Gnarly, 1000+ years old and amazing.  Check out the namesake cones. We move on stopping at every pull out and taking dozens of pictures.

Now it’s time to wander among the hoodoos.  On the recommendation from the ranger (amazing hoodoos and not many other hikers), we choose the Tower Bridge Trail.  It is short, just 1 1/2 miles each way but it does go to the bottom of the canyon meaning an 800 ft drop in elevation.  It is an out and back; so, yep that’s 800 ft back up.  All this starts at 8000 ft elevation.  We wind among ever changing formations, rocks, spires, castle-like, spiraling walls, and sentinel towers standing solo among the many.  Trail side signs encourage extra care as we make our way through a sensitive vegetation area, another “grove” of bristle cone pines.  Our toes are cramping from the continuous downhill when we reach crisscrossing streambeds, this must be the bottom!  There just ahead, is the Tower Bridge hoodoo.  Definitely castle-tower-like and pretty cool.  It is absolutely silent here.  What a perfect place for lunch break.  Our pace up is just perfect for admiring lots more hoodoos from differing angles…..Back at the car we log in at 4.89 miles total door to door for this walk and 1095ft elevation change.   Well worth it to get the unique perspective of hoodoos from right among them.

We are back home entertained by the prairie dogs all around us.  There is dinner then a beautiful black night sky.  We fall into bed with the milky way arching across overhead.

Apgar Outlook Trail

It is cooler than forecast and greyer than forecast but we are going anyway.  Tomorrow is rainy all day so this is our last day to get some more Glacier hiking in.

We are on the trail about 8:45. Even this late, we start out in fleece, gloves and wool hats.  Today we headed out on a 3.6 mile out and back with 1950 ft elevation gain.  It is rated as difficult, it is.  Mile 1 is pretty flat.  The next 1 ½ noticeably steeper.  We peel off all the warm clothes.  The last mile is loooong, steep switchbacks.  We nearly give up several times but a “one more turn” mantra keeps us moving.  A couple we meet at about 3 miles in brags on the views from the top and grouse on the trail.  Ok, we can do it.  We trudge on and are very pleased when we catch sight of the lookout tower at the top.  We made it.  We can see to the mountain ridge that is the continental divide along Going to the Sun and, with a little off trail maneuvering, Lake McDonald nestled in the valley below. We settle on the lookout walkway to lunch and wait for brighter skies.  That doesn’t happen.  It actually gets darker and cooler and weather radar confirms there is rain around us.  It is much too cool to get wet this far from the truck.  Time to head down.

We take a few knee and ankle breaks; still, the return 3.6 miles goes more quickly than our outbound and we make it back down without even a sprinkle of rain.   We are not sorry we made the trek; but we agree a hike this difficult ought to end at a more spectacular view!  Maybe we just needed a brighter, clearer day to bring out the colors and provide a crisper view of the distant mountains. We will sleep well tonight.

Off to Avalanche Lake

It is a bumpy muddy ride up Going to the Sun Road to the trailhead about 5 miles beyond McDonald Lodge.  Our early start pays off as we get parking in the front row and are on the trail by 7:20AM, just right for a quiet start to the hike. We wind through the colossal cedars along The Trail of Cedars boardwalk, pass a rocky, moss-covered waterfall, follow the sometimes babbling sometimes crashing stream, then turn up and into the dense pines.  It is overcast and the shadowy, towering pines are beautiful but a bit foreboding. The trail is steeper than we anticipated but lovely. We spot the distinctive white profiles of mountain goats mixed with bright red and yellow fall foliage on the cliffs high above the creek bed.  At about 2.5 miles our path opens onto the foot of Avalanche Lake.   Muted colors of the surrounding mountains and waterside foliage reflect in the still lake waters. A Stellar’s Jay comes begging while we relax on the gravelly beach.  It doesn’t look like it is going to brighten up and it’s getting to be prime hike time, the once peaceful beach is getting busy.  We retrace our steps back to the truck.  This was well worth the walk.

It is still early.  We head on out Going to the Sun toward Logan Pass. Kent has not been on the west side of the divide this trip.  It is hard to capture fall colors with grey skies but it is beautiful.  We are classic Glacier visitors, stopping at pull-offs all along the route scouring the mountains for goats and sheep (we see an impressive looking bighorn ram) and attempting to identify glaciers.  Traffic gets annoying and we turn back toward the west side.  Construction is in full swing, leaving us to wait for the pilot truck and rolling through splattery mud.  There is a car wash in our not-to-distant future.  We make a quick stop for firewood and are back at camp with our feet up.   It’s been a full day.

Finally, real hiking weather

At least “not rainy” weather.  We mess up the alarm so are not up super early but still early enough to start ahead of the crowds.  We have a quick breakfast and load up the backpack for a full day out on the trail.  We load up lots of clothes too, its 42 when we head out the door.  Our destination? Bowman Lake in the north west corner of the park.  The thermometer dips to 36 as we make our way further into the back country. The truck has a pretty good heater though and we stay toasty warm.  Our route includes Outside North Fork Road past Polebridge, the one Carol and I drove last week.  It isn’t any smoother today!  Wild life viewing is pretty good though.  A bevy of ptarmigan scratch and poke along the road’s edge and three elk cows graze peacefully in a roadside meadow.  One crosses not far in front of us as they gradually make their way toward the tree line.

The Open sign at Polebridge Mercantile calls to us, we can’t resist the stop and choose one fresh cinnamon roll and one of those yummy sticky buns.  As we turn to head for Bowman Lake trailhead a paper sign on the Mercantile door catches my eye.  It reads “9/19 to 10/7 bridge over the Flathead closed” “No access to Bowman Lake”.  Surely not, we think as we enjoy our baked treats.  Once finished, we drive the mile or so to the expected crossing.  Sure enough, there stands a flagger and she confirms that there is no access beyond the river.  We (and all the other folks who couldn’t/didn’t believe the sign) make a U-turn and ponder on what to do now.  We decide to drive a bit further north hoping that our wild life viewing luck will continue.   It does not.  We reverse course and bump our way back to Apgar.  The day is still young and we need gas for future wanderings so we head for Hungry Horse where prices are a bit more reasonable, $4.24 vs around $5 in West Glacier.  It is a chance to stop at The Huckleberry Patch too.  Folks in the grocery pointed Carol and I that way for the best locally produced huckleberry treats.  Kent and I split a huckleberry shake.  Didn’t need the sweets but hey, we might not get back this way!

Back home we relax a bit and finalize campgrounds for our move down to Vegas.  It is burgers for dinner and just at dusk we watch a mule deer browse her way across the center of our campground loop.

Many Glacier for a boat ride, we hope

Carol, Kent and I bump our way back the dusty, potholed, wash-boarded park entrance road into Many Glacier.  The road grader is parked at the start of the road.  They need to get it moving…We make it to Many Glacier Hotel, a beautiful historic log structure.  Our main goals are to check out the impressive architecture and its views plus waitlist for the scenic boat ride that originates here.  The boats have been sold out for months but they are a fun way to get a bit further back into the park without a lot of walking.  Scope out the building, check.  Waitlist the boat rides, check.  Rats, we just miss the waitlist call for the earliest ride.  No problem, it gives us time for lunch.  We go for cocktails first then lunch.  Carol – elk brat.  Kent- a BLTA.  Me – bison burger.  We are all happy with our choices.  There is a bit more hanging around but we make the cut for the 1:30 boat ride.  All aboard first Chief Two Guns on Swiftcurrent Lake, followed by a rocky underfoot, steep in sections ¼ mile trail, then the Morning Eagle on Lake Josephine.  The ride is worth the wait and we manage a couple mile hike once we are out there.

Woohoo, bear sighting day

Kent and I are up and on our way by 6:30 putting us at the Grinnell Glacier trailhead by just before 7:30. Yikes, it is cold, 37F and the sun isn’t high enough to warm this part of the valley.  We huddle in the warm truck for a few then put on everything we brought, fleece, windbreakers, wool hats, and gloves then head to the trailhead.

We take the trail along the north shore of first Swiftcurrent then Josephine Lake.  We spot moose tracks in the soft flat soil but no sign of the fellow(s) who might have made those tracks.  We have the trail pretty much to ourselves as we cross a boardwalk at the head of Josephene Lake then up a steep rock scramble to intersect with the Glacier Trail.   It is pretty much all uphill now to the end of the hike.  We hear a jumble of voices behind us.  No more wooded serenity, the first boatload of hikers just disembarked below us and are quickly overtaking us on the trail.  We’ll have lots of company on the trail for the rest of the day.  We are rapidly peeling off layers of clothing as we climb.  It is a fairly steep, long climb but we are urged on by the view of the glacier hanging high in the far end of the valley in front of us.  Its meltwater feeds first waterfalls then flows into blue-green Grinnell Lake below it.  We stop to check out the view and spot for mountain goals on the slopes.  Check it out. Mountain goat pic.  We get to a spectacular viewing spot and declare it the end of our climb.  The trail is very busy now with both overtaking and oncoming traffic, not so much fun.

Down is physically easier and traffic lessens once we get down off the switchbacks.  We get a bonus sighting, a large black bear along the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake.  It is a pretty quick look.  He has absolutely no interest in us.  Must be focusing on berry hunting.

We get back to the trailhead at the lodge just in time to see a band of big horn sheep ewes and their young.  Kent gets one of the most captured big horn pictures, butts!

Wild life sightings continue as we head out of the park.  First there is a fleeting look at a black bear in the trees off the left side of the entrance road. While we are gawking at it, a bear jam gathers.  Not for the black bear, for a big grizzly bear swimming toward us across Lake Sherburne.  She/he rises up out of the water as they come ashore then alternates snuffling about and trotting toward us.  By then a ranger has arrived to wrangle the watchers and clear a path should the bear keep coming our way.  It does, and he hustles all the cars and people out of the way.  We watch out of our rearview mirror as she moves on toward the road.  It is a fantastic grizzly sighting.  Quite close and within scurry distance of the truck!

We raid Carol’s kitchen, our first of several delicious cheeseboards.  Yum

For Kent and me the afternoon is all about resting up. Carol joins us to end the day with a tasty plate of nachos.

An early start

Traffic in Yellowstone around thermal features was pretty awful when we passed through yesterday and the weather forecast for today is rain mid-morning through afternoon and evening.  If we are going to see even the highlights, we have to get an early start.   Up at 5:45 and a quick cup of coffee gets us out the door by 6:15 and puts us at Old Faithful by 7:30. Enroute we spot elk including a cow and two small calves down for a drink.  We check out the posted next-eruption time.  Perfect, just enough time for a leisurely breakfast at the Inn.  Mike and Tracy’s pictures reminded us how cool the old structure is and we feel the need to check it out.  It’s a buffet with food a bit better than average but the cozy setting makes up for anything it lacks.  We are back out in plenty of time for Old Faithful’s show.  Even against a cloud filled sky it is spectacular.  The weather holds off long enough to walk the entire upper basin boardwalk including catching a Daisy geyser eruption.  We make it back to the geyser hill just in time to see Old Faithful a second time.  It looks more powerful from the view on the top boardwalk!  It is misting and still in the 50’s.  We check out the gift shop.  I must have another Yellowstone medallion, a bison this time.  Plans are to check out Grand Prismatic and the Norris Basin thermal area if the crowds aren’t awful.  No such luck, traffic is spilling out of the parking lots as folks are vulturing for spots.  We head home with a couple detours; The Firehole River Canyon Drive, it is spectacular, then a loop along the Madison River, lovely but no elk or bears on that section of the grassy banks today.  The elk from this morning are still out along 20.  It is definitely a favorite spot for them. We are back in camp sipping hot tea to warm up in the rainy and chilly weather.  It’s a great chance to catch up on the blog and naps!

Kids and grandkids in the Tetons

Mike, Tracy, Willa and Hazel land at Jackson Hole airport, load their plunder into a rental car, and we all make our way to our hangout for the week, our motorhome in Gros Ventre. Hazel takes over Willa’s traditional sleeping cubby back by Grampa and Nana and Willa is thrilled with her spot on the jack-knife sofa (unicorn and rainbow bedding are a big selling point).  Mike and Tracy get the over-cab queen and all is set….cozy but comfy.

We spend a day planning, exploring and settling in.  While Mike gets some recommendations from the Visitor Center Ranger the girls have a great time with the exhibits and trapsing around on the river image projected on the visitor center floor.  It is pretty cool.

Day two we dive in.  Mike, Tracy, Willa and Nana head for the Death Canyon Trail Head.  Cool name, right?  Our destination is the Phelps Lake Overlook.  We spot a black bear and her cub enroute along Moose-Wilson Road.  The trail is a bit challenging with some elevation change and an added mile or so because we have to use overflow parking.  We spend some time soaking in the view of the lake at the top and watching mock (we hope) helicopter rescues below us.  Great first hike, Dad.  Kent and Hazel  enjoyed some chill time at the motorhome.  She caught her afternoon nap.

Checking out town, Jackson.  First, it is playground time.  There are swings and climbing structures and plenty of slides plus a coffee shop not far away.  It is a fun couple hours for kids and adults.   We all work up an appetite and head for the Persephone Bakery where we share a selection of delicious pastries, cakes, and cookies.  There is a stop for pictures under the antler arches along the way. Once we hve gad our fill of goodies, Hazel heads back to camp with us while Willa takes Mom and Dad shopping and sight-seeing.  We hear that there is a horse drawn wagon involved and a stuffie, Rainbow Ruby (a unicorn) comes home with them.   Hazel takes a motorhome shower with Nana.  We get the girls for the evening while Mom and Dad head back into town for a date night.  Win: win all around.

Another hike, this time to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point above Jenny Lake.  We start with a ferry ride then there is a lot of “up”, we sort of expected that with a destination like Inspiration Point!  Willa is anxious to mountain climb – not just walk a trail- and to maybe get to the snow.  Above Hidden Falls she gets at least part of that wish.  The trail gets rocky and steep just perfect for her hands and feet climbing on up to the point.  She is thrilled to meet the beggy trail chipmunks.  She calls them “chicky” and is adamant that she be allowed to adopt one and take it home.  I get in trouble for swatting at them as they try to climb into my backpack and steal food.  They are very people habituated!  Just as we get her to move no an unusually brazen pica scurries right by Willa’s feet in a hurry to stash his mouthful of grass.  We climb a bit higher onto Cascade Canyon trail hoping to see more wildlife as the crowds thin out.  No luck with that but it does take us to an alternative, shorter, less steep return route back to the lake.  Here are fewer hikers so it makes for a perfect place to try out Willa’s rescue chain.  Check out the pic.  Her stated purpose was so the test of us could help Daddy when he got tired carrying Hazel the whole time.  More on its origin later.  The return ferry trip is a welcome opportunity to sit down for a few and by the time we make it to the car everyone is about done for the day.  Hazel was a great sport (Mike too) through all her time in the carrier.  She even caught a bit of a nap.

Beach time!  Lakes here are pretty cold for swimming but Mike gets a recommendation to try String Lake.  It is shallow so about as warm as they come in these parts.  We pack up blankets and towels and lunch and head out, Hazel in the truck with us.  Parking near the lake is an absolute zoo.  We troll the lots several loops until Grampa’s patience gives out.  Mike has dropped Tracy and Willa as he vultures for a spot.  I join them and Kent is off back to camp.  He and Hazel will find alternative entertainment today.  We girls are just claiming our spot on the beach when Mike walks up.  He got a spot in the second row…credit to his practice at parking in the city all those years.  Willa and Tracy build a great sand castle.  Mike takes the Polar Plunge, the only one of us to completely submerge in the “warmer” lake water.  A volunteer ranger comes by to have us move all our stuff to the bear locker.  A bear was sighted just a few hundred yards behind us.  We stash our bags for a half hour until we get the all clear and enjoy a nice picnic lunch.  There is a bit more castle building and some warming in the sun then we wrap it up and head home.

Today we head up to over 10,000 feet on the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village!  After about an hour weather (lightning) delay the aerial tram takes us to 10,450 ft on Rendezvous Mountain.   Clouds shroud the mountain tops and we rise right up into them.  We are all startled when a rock cliff appears seemingly right in our path.  We of course rise just along and above to safely come to a halt on the mountain top.   It is cold in the fog and wind so we duck into Corbet Cabin for a traditional treat, waffles and hot drinks.  We go for one traditional waffle =brown sugar butter and one Belgian= cookie butter, caramel and powdered sugar. So delicious.  The sun breaks through and we head out to explore.   Our goal is the Top of the World trail.  We are still looking for snow to play in but we are still not quite high enough for this time of year.  We have to be content to check out the glaciers above us.  We stroll and take in the view then board the tram for the trip down.  Its clear skies all the way down so views are better than ever.  The grounds in the resort are grassy and a great place to play.  Willa discovers a bungie trampoline.  She is going to try it.  I’d rate it as a somewhat tense but overall fun adventure.  Check out the pics and you be the judge.  We grab some lunch, play a bit longer as Grampa and Nana relax in our Adirondack chairs then we head off with the kids while Mom and Dad try to squeeze in one more hike.  Fun day for all.

Yellowstone day.  Willa is quite the volcano fan. Mike and Tracy have never been to Yellowstone.  Today is the day; they set off to check out the caldera and all the thermal features.  We plan out a fun day for Hazel with us so they can focus on that unique place.   They spend a night at the Yellowstone Inn and trapse all around checking out the sights.  Pictures and their report back say a good time was had by all.  We take Hazel to the beach at Lower Slide Lake.  We throw a lot of rocks to watch them splash.  Splash each other and do some people watching.  She is a bit reluctant to start but really gets into it by time to head home.  Once back home she paints, makes Dad a birthday card, and gets a traditional brown tub bath.  It is a full day for all of us too.

Early birthday for Dad.  Mike jumps in to help make his “cake”, Dutch oven peach cobbler.  It’s a fun way to celebrate and I’d say it came out pretty good.  There were no leftovers.

Nana there is a Moo

Then there was just everyday fun stuff.  Campfires with s’mores and fun stories.  Chalk art. Coloring.  Painting, rocks and on paper.  Crafts, the afore mentioned huge paper chain in particular.  Tillie time/pretend school mostly.  Bocce.  Playball. Camp dishwashing time.  Moose watching walking around camp and out the motorhome window, sometimes even sparring.  Redneck playpen bounce ball: Willa and Hazel in the pickup bed with the tailgate closed.  Kent bounces a tennis ball into the bed where it ricochets around until they catch it and throw it to, at, or purposefully just out of the reach of Grampa. Much giggling ensues.

We had a fantastic week and can’t wait to see them again when we head their way for Hazel’s birthday in October.

 

 

 

Teton National Park on our own

Our site in Gros Ventre is smallish but truck and motorhome do fit and it is level.  We are on a busy road which is not the best thing for noise or for when Willa and Hazel visit.  Still, it will work.  We are in sagebrush plain along the Gros Vontre River and as it turns out, there are frequent moose visits to the campground.  We check it out every morning and often sight them right out of the motorhome windows.

Before the kids arrive and after they leave, Kent and I explore a bit on our own. We grab dinner out one night, pizza at Hand Fire pizza.  The place is a cool remodel of an old theatre and they have space-ship-like giant pizza ovens out in an open kitchen where we can watch our dinner come together.  Plus, the pizza is delicious.  The brownie dessert isn’t quite as good as I envisioned but we did eat it all.

We carve out time for an early wildlife viewing run.  Up well before dawn we are at the first recommended site by 6:15AM, between first light and sunrise.  We spot our first elk in the park as a band of females are just stirring along the river’s edge at Blacktail Pond.  Next, we make our way to the top of signal mountain (the road just reopened) and spot two beautifully antlered bull elk, a bison bull and a mule deer with a rack like neither of us have ever seen before. Check it out.  It is an amazing view of a broad rolling valley brought to us by fault uplift, glaciers and the powerful Snake River.  We continue to several suggested moose and bear viewing sights.  They are not as productive but the drive is still lovely.  Near home at antelope flats we see the local bison herd.  It is a great morning.

We hike around Phelps Lake in the Roosevelt Preserve.  A doe and fawn tolerate our presence long enough for a good look and there is a report of a bear near the visitor center.  We must have walked just feet from him on our way in off the trail.  We check out the soundscape rooms.  In one room, wildlife and wild setting images rotate on four screens accompanied by a sound track.  My mind scrambles to match them.  In the second space, only the sound track plays.  I close my eyes and block out all but those sounds.

One last stop, a living history demonstration.  We stop in at Mormon Row, a preserved and partially restored 1880s settlement.  We make rope, try on period clothes, and play some of the kids’ games. It is a fun stop.  I even get the bug to maybe get involved in living history here or somewhere as we contemplate a more settled life in the coming few years.