A day on the Arkansas River

Yep, we are doing it.  We are setting off on a full day river ride with Noah’s Ark Whitewater Rafting out of Buena Vista.  They took us out and brought us back safely last time, about 6 years ago.  We are suited up:  Life jacket-check.  Helmet-check. Sunscreen-check.  We climb into the back of the raft while our boatmates Jason and LJ take places up front and our guide, Kayla the center position with the oars.  Flow rate is moderate they say, about 1200 cfs.  Reports are the trip will include some class III and a couple class IV but starts out nice and easy with a little bouncing and a few splashes to get us set for the bigger stuff.  We are just getting started when we ride high on a rock in the middle of the river and there we are, stuck.  Really stuck!  Kent and I crawl up to the front, boy was that not a graceful maneuver, trying to transfer weight and get us moving.  We bounce up and down to free us.  We push with paddles.  Ultimately Kayla has to put a foot out and push us off…we twist wildly for a few then settle back into heading downstream.  It ought to be a fun ride.

We enter Browns Canyon with its great riverside views.  We tuck in our toes and hang fast to our paddles as we do our best to follow paddling orders.  Go 1.  Go 2.  Back 2.  Pretty simple, at least until one gets distracted by trying to stay in the boast.   The guys up front get the biggest splashes but Kent and I get the bouncy ride in the back of the boat.  We each land down in the bottom of the boat several times over the course of the trip.  We manage to adhere to the first river rafting rule, “Stay in the boat”.

The sun is hot but the water in the 60s with lots of splashing going on.  Shore lunch is delicious.  The blondies are a particular hit. Not long after lunch stop, we hit the roughest section of the river including Seidel’s Suck Hole….it’s a fun wild ride for us and we make it through without mishap. Not everyone though.  There is a ‘swimmer’ off a raft just behind us and she’s caught in the roiling waters at the base of the rock ledge.  Her head is above water and she’s trying to swim but having trouble getting free.  A loud whistle tweets and all boats move to help.  She pops free of the swirl and is plucked to safety.  It seems long even for those of us not in the water but the whole thing is probably a minute maybe two.  She is a bit shaken but able to carry on.

Just a couple more swirly sections and another grounding on a mid-river rock, less spectacular than the first, then we float out the rest of the trip in relative calm.  There is an uneventful bus ride back to the outfitter base where we drop off gear and bid our adventure companions farewell.  We spot a food truck in the parking lot offering up homemade poptarts.  I find that irresistible and we go for a raspberry one.  It looks very poptart-like and the raspberry filling is actually real raspberries.  It is delicious. We head home.

It has been a great trip.

Exploring

Bird watching on the mud flats of Florida Bay.  This is a spotting scope spot!  The flats are WAY out there.  We recognized blue herons, egrets and pelicans but everybody else is just a swarm of birds.  At the marina we spotted a baby manatee in the canal area and a nest filled with young osprey. Fun.

Birdwatching in Snake Bite off Florida Bay. It is far out to the flats here too but I think I saw roseate spoonbills.  It was a long hot hike back!  Only 1.8 miles but hardly any breeze and 85+.

Kayaking West Lake.  The long open water paddle (4 miles) was easy on the way out but across a moderate chop coming back in.  It seemed like the wind blew from every direction and the waves formed like pyramids that the boat slid off of in every direction.   The last mile was a challenge.  Out at the far end of the lake we wound through a shady, quiet mangrove tunnel.  It had one “limbo tree” to get under but we made it through. You can get all the way out into Florida Bay if you continue another 4 miles or so but there was lots more open water ahead and the wind was kicking up so we turned back.  Overall, a good trip but watch the wind forecast if you have plans to head out this trail.

Paddling out to Coot Bay.  We were on the water by 8am and it is much quieter than we expected.  We spotted a handful of herons and egrets among the mangroves as we paddled out Buttonwood canal. An immature bald eagle glided overhead, the first we have seen here.  3 miles out plus a little loop in Coot Bay then we start back.  Not surprisingly, we paddle against a headwind.  We are entertained by the acrobatics of swallow-tailed kites and catch a look at an open-mouthed croc sunning among downed limbs.

It is a bit of a drive back out to Royal Palms but I wanted to check out the Anhinga Trail.  It is a chance to catch up with Carol too, she is camping at Long Pine Key.  First, Carol feeds us dinner: great chicken salad and wonderful key lime pie for dessert.  There had been thunder storms earlier and still a little rumbling.  We even ate indoors hiding from a short shower.  We let our food settle a bit then headed out for the trail around 7PM.  Evening can be a fun time for wildlife.  The walk was pretty much a bust…we saw anhinga and a few egrets and only a couple alligators on the return side of the loop.  Somebody flipped the bug switch just as we reached the far end and we found ourselves in the heart of an annoying mosquito swarm.  Bug spray kept them somewhat at bay but we wrapped things up pretty fast after that.  Carol rode out to Flamingo with us and spent the night on our couch so she could have a chance to explore our end of the park for a few hours.

Baby Manatee

I gave Carol the nickel tour at Flamingo.  A couple manatees, the baby osprey, and a crocodile all made an appearance.  We checked out the marina store and visitor center then gathered up Kent to head back to Long Pine with stops at a few high points along the way.  It was getting pretty late in the day so it was hot and humid but we walked the West Lake and Mahogany Hammock boardwalks and did a bit of bird watching at a couple other stops. We delivered Carol home and polished off her leftovers for lunch.  We were all looking forward to some relaxation in the air conditioning.  We headed back to Flamingo for one more day in the park before we start our journey north.  So long Carol.  Current plans have us crossing paths next in NY for Miss Willa’s b’day.

Flash back

Time has flown but Brian and Mike were 2 years old once and I love how watching Willa soak up all that she sees and hears reminds me of how marvelous that time was.  We trade off with Willa’s other Grandparents each week.  The return after a few days’ absence magnifies the changes.  She is maturing by leaps and bounds with growing vocabulary, deliberate consideration before questions or observations, growing capacity to pretend and know it is different from reality, and a huge repertoire of ways to test what she can get away with.  Thankfully, there is also still silly random song singing and pure joy chasing shadows or tumbling on the grass. Here is to hoping that she finds her life as joyous as she makes that of those around her.  Loving it.

What did we do this week?  Kayak; Willa tries her hand at paddling, loves trailing her toes and fingers to watch the ripples, and embraces the tippyness imparted by rocking back and forth.  Looks like this will be a popular pastime.  Water playing; our picnic benches have never been so well decorated or as clean and outdoor brown washtub baths are a great way to cool off on those 90F days.  Intermittent rain showers let us recreate chalk art every couple days.  Hop-scotch always makes an appearance and this week we had to create the “hole in the ground” tree with lots of verse details.  Nearly every steamy afternoon includes a cold, drippy, sticky watermelon treat.  So, what did we do?  Nothing much; but it was great fun!

Cool, clear and relatively calm

What else, back out for another paddle.  Today we head toward the maze of narrow channels that meander through high growth.  It is a bit more out of reach of power boats and might offer up some new wildlife.  We paddle a little over 6 miles in about 5 hours on the lake.  Fortunately, we find a gravel ramp on the far end of the lake to get out and stretch my grumbly hips.  I enjoy kayaking or canoeing most if I can get out every couple hours and walk around a bit.  We don’t make any great new discoveries but do finally see great blue herons and great egrets.  Both are hiding downwind as the morning breeze has now grown to be much more significant.  It was the forecast!  Looks like time to head back in.  Narrow channels and areas behind islands make for protected paddling then a quick sprint across open water gets us to the upwind bank for a reasonable paddle toward home.  We have to work a bit at a couple more open water spots but find ourselves safely back at camp after a fun day on the water. 

Tonight, we find a clear star-studded night sky with no moon but spillover light from the Proving Grounds and not-quite-distant enough Yuma interfere with the perfect inky black view I was hoping for.  Our next stop is Anza Borrego Desert SP in CA.  It is a night sky park with development miles afar….seems like a perfect starry night place.         

Lovely paddle

The wind is manageable and the sun brilliant so we head out for a paddle.  Our launch site is a bit precarious but we both manage to get in and out of the kayaks without getting wet.  Perfect!  Left minimally, nearly every foot of shoreline is heavily lined with tall reeds and grass.  It is awkward for leg stretch breaks but perfect for wildlife.  Graceful, beautifully marked Western Grebes fill the air with their rattley trills.  Clunky black American Coots cluck and a pod of beggardly mallards assault our ears with maniacal laughing quacks.  Snowy egrets walk the ragged shores shaking their big clown feet while stealthy sora move amid the shelter of the reeds.  Limpkin stand statue still at the water’s edge. Moorhens with their candy corn beaks chatter as they forage.   Osprey and northern harrier soar above.  I see some sort of furry mammal but never close enough to identify it.  It is a lovely paddle.

We end our day with grilled burgers and s’mores.  Very nice.

Kayak time for Carol and I.

It is her first attempt but all goes pretty smoothly. We paddle the shore maybe a total of ½ mile from camp and back and check out the locals: a great blue, an osprey hunting right beside us, and a mallard family just off shore from camp. Carol’s take on the experience, “yeah, I’d do that again”. I was a relaxing, quiet paddle.

Boundary Waters Canoe Area by the numbers

Paddled in 5 days out and back: Sawbill Lk, Ada Creek, Ada Lk, Sloop Lk , Cherokee Creek, Cherokee Lk, Gordon Lk, Long Island River, Long Island Lk, & Doe Lake

Campsites: 3

Miles paddled: 28.3 + sight seeing

# Portages: 7X2 for Kent & Lynn, 8X2 for Mike and Tracy

# Beaver Dams crossed: 6 X 2

Portage Distance on Map: 2.4 miles

Portage Distance Actual: 3 miles  The difference is attributed to a creek that can no longer be paddled so you slog along the creek bank in the mud for 0.4 miles, Yuk!

Canoe weight 40#each X 2

Total Weight 4 Packs 123# + 2 daypacks

Depth of mudhole found by Mike on portage approx 13”

Rainfall during day 2 of trip 1.4”

Pictures taken: 378

Fanua observed; Loon, Eagle, Grouse, Mink, Beaver, Otter, squirrel, chipmunk, mouse, frog, Crow, owl, coyote, gulls, jays, nuthatches, kingfishers, turtles, coots, mergansers, red headed ducks

For some, back to the city life

Up at 4AM and on our way long before daylight. It’s a couple hour drive, there is the border crossing lady, time must be allotted for the TSA folks, and add a little cushion in case we want some breakfast at Tim Horton’s.  GPS Betsy does not lead us astray and the border agent on duty is very laid back so we have plenty of time to make our donut stop.  Coffee is great and donuts very fresh (I tried the S’mores donut.  Graham crackers are under-represented but otherwise quite tasty) plus it gave us a few more minutes to visit before the kids head off.  We drop them at Departures and head back across the border and along the beautiful lakeshore.

Kent’s phone chirps.  It’s a text from Mike.  Seems there has been a bit of a snafu which we will credit to learning curve on Kent’s new “smart” phone.  His calendar is set to switch time with time zone crossing and we didn’t catch it.  So, the kids are at the airport an hour early.  Better than an hour late.  Oops.

Not exactly smooth

The drive to Sawbill had a couple hiccups. First, Mike doesn’t look at all like the baby faced, clean cut kid in his passport photo.  “Move further up front.”  “Put your hair behind your ears.”  The border agent made some unusual requests before she was convinced that this is the very same fellow.  All is ok though and we are on our way.

Next, GPS Betsy is unrelenting in sending us some back forest road route to the lake. The road goes from paved to gravel, ok we expected that, to rutted gravel to two-track with grass growing in the middle.  We didn’t expect that.  We found a wide spot (a very wide spot since we are in the entire rig, trailer and all) and make a U-turn.  We ignore Betsy’s urgings to continue on the two-track and call the outfitter for best directions.  Surprise, best path is NOT the one Betsey is insisting on.  The new route is still 20 miles on gravel but its good gravel road and there are no more issues.  We check in, pick up (sort of) dry packs then begin collecting and packing up gear for an early start tomorrow