Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness

It is hard to roll out of bed when it is 37F but the forecast is for the high 80s by afternoon so we want to stick with our planned early start. A short drive that includes a quick stop at the Bakery (one blueberry scone and a cinnamon roll plus a chock full of good stuff cookie for the trail) brings us to the trailhead.  We don fleece and wind breakers and set off.

Bare charred pines line the trail as we pass through a burn area. At first it is a bit depressing but the sun rises to peak over the ridge above us and shadows begin to play across the hillside.  Clusters of wildflowers accent the grey scene.  First we hear then come alongside the trail name sake, Marsh Creek.   The feel of cool air off the water and rolling down the cliffs alternates with the toasty warm of the brilliant morning sun.  Before long we strip first the fleece then the jackets.

Along the creek we spot anFrankChurchComp_5193 osprey and a mama merganser and her one little chick. The trail clings to talus cliff sides where pica and marmots make appearances.  All day deer tracks way outnumber boot tracks at our feet.  We meet no one on the trail until we began our return trek and encountered only one occupied wilderness campsite. It is good to know that we can get out into the wild a bit even on a day hike.

Our destination today; the confluence of Marsh Creek and Bear Creek Headwaters Mid Fork Salmon RiverComp_5199that is the birth of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. From a perch high above the creeks the view is beautiful.  There is an amazing aqua blue2016 0725 Big Hole Headwaters Middle Fork Salmon RComp _5213 pool so tempting that we just have to clamber down to check it out.  There is no one else around.   I wade to my knees but have to keep getting out to warm my numbing toes. Kent is a bit braver, he goes for a dip.  Good for him.  We hang out and have lunch and just soak it all in.

It is hot now. The hike out is filled with new smells as the air rises up the creek banks and lifts the forest smells with it.  We take breaks in the shade and ease our way back to civilization.  Along the creek I notice quiet sections where the water slips among the rocks as well as the roaring turns and leaps over boulders.

It has been a wonderful hike.

Sawtooth Wilderness Area

Usage is high in this area and adherence to Leave No Trace practices is low so this Wilderness isn’t really very wild and certainly not unspoiled.

It is still amazing mountain terrain and we had a great hike to Sawtooth Lake. SawtoothLakeComp_5048 A small herd of elk and a few young ones were hanging out along the access road to the trailhead.  We started out though a forested area and ascended along a creek into the rugged Sawtooth Mountains.  Wildflowers bloom and snow still hangs in sheltered areas.  Bare gray mountains ring the alpine lakes in stark contrast with the clear blue water.PicaComp_5058 (2)  Pica and marmot scamper, squeak, and bark their alarm from among the glacier moraine that forms the lake shoreline.  They all fall silent as a fox trotsFoxComp_5065 (2) through.

The trail climbs 1700 feet revealing fantastic views of the valley below and distant mountain ranges. Thankfully there is very little smoke in the air today.  We are without internet, TV, radio and cell coverage so we don’t know for sure where fires might be but they are apparently downwind today.

So long, Lolo

Today we head for Stanley ID home of the Sawtooth NRA and Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness to do some hiking.  US93 shares a beautiful valley with the Salmon River.   The drive is steep and winding so I do most of the scenery appreciating.  ID75 is a bit more mountainous.  We find a forest service camp site along the river, lovely, and settle in for a few days.  First mission, decide which hike for tomorrow so we are off to the ranger station and visitor center

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Hmm, lots of smoke drifting in.

This part of the country is known for its wildfires. There are no warnings in camp so must just be blowing in.

Catching Up

We had a wonderful lunch with Shauna and Glen; they volunteered at Aransas at the same time as we did. The Missoula area is their home stomping ground and they are back up here visiting with their kids.  We met up at the Montana Club and tied up a table for hours sharing travel stories and plans.  It is amazing how separate meanderings cross paths now and again.  It was fun to get together.

Missoula

I ride old Paint. Well, not real old.LynnonPaintComp_4974  The city of Missoula commissioned the building of a brand new carousel in 1995.  A local wood worker, with the help of a bunch of volunteers, carved 38 ponies (one is actually a dragon).  I rode Paint.  I grabbed a bunch of rings too but the brass ring went to a youngster….probably appropriate!

Big Dipper Ice Cream

They serve locally made and absolutely delicious ice cream: Irish Brownie for Kent and Cardamom for me.

Catch a wave. In Montana?

We watched from theCatchaWaveMissoula_4982 Higgins Street Bridge as a number of locals surfed Brennan Wave on the Clark Fork River that runs right through town.

Kootenai Creek Trail

Views of craggy peaks, tall stands of pine, and cool grey colored glacier moraine line the trail along a beautiful streamKootenai Creek Doc_4959 in the Bitterroot Wilderness Area. The plan was to hike 9 miles out to the North Kootenai Lake that feeds this stream but the trail became increasingly overgrown and the day increasingly hot; we turned back after 5 miles.  I would recommend the hike but be ready for a rock strewn path most of the way.  It wanders through quite a bit of dead standing timber too.

Check out the trail “road crew”.TrailcrewComp_4931

National Bison Range

First thing, we take the circle dive. A huge bull bison is resting in a roadside wallow totally undisturbed by our approach. Dust shake CompIMG_4732 He is disturbed by some pesky bugs though and takes a leg-flailing dust path right in front of us.  It is a bit comical to watch.

 

There is a flash of movement off to the left.BullElkComp_4759 Two bull elk are moving through the low brush.  Both sport impressive antlers and they seem to be watching out for each other.  They are fantastic to watch.  It is odd to think that in just another 30 days or so they will be standing off against one another as they build their harems.

 

All the guys are feasting and getting ready for Fall. Mule deer WhiteTailComp_4791and white ta

MuleyComp_4789il deer also sport some great antlers.

BighornCompCrop_4829Ram big horn sheep stake out territories.  In herds, bull bison are selecting their mate and “tending” them to stave off other bull’s advances.  We stop among the herd and listen to the sounds of these guys defending their claim.

 

Bison cows keep a watchful eye on their calves. New,Calf Comp_4865 still red colored young ones mix with older calves that are already growing adult coats.  It seems the entire social interaction is pretty complex.

 

The drive circles through fast open rolling prairie with views of surrounding mountains.WaldoAntelopeComp_4841 There, a tiny spec moves on a far hill.  It is a Pronghorn Antelope.

Pronghorn eye lashes

Pronghorn eye lashes

 

We didn’t see any bear but did notice as we were heading out that the fishing access is closed. A grizzly and her cubs have been checking it out.  They get priority over human fishermen!

 

 

 

Part of the Bison herd went for maximum viability. They were hanging out at a watering hole along US 93 so all passerby could see them.  Lady ElkComp_4912That is where we found a small herd of elk cows and their little ones too.

 

 

 

 

 

These folks say American Bison once numbered over 30,000,000. Thankfully someone figured out the need to protect these magnificent beasts before it was too late.  Federal ranges support only about half of the 500,000 bison still living in the US.  The remaining half is in private herds.  Who knew?

A perfect day

We spent the day on lower Priest Lake.  Despite a cool 50F start to the day and a forecast for off and on rain we headed out. PriestLakeDoc_4673 I packed jackets and fleece and we have umbrellas in the boat. We were ready for anything.  What we got was a brilliant blue sky decorated with cotton-like clouds, light cool winds, and plenty of sun that quickly warmed all that it touched.  We slow trolled to animal watch and ran at speed to explore the shore and some of the islands.

 

Best animal spot; a pair of bald EagleCropDoc_4684eagles standing watch over their treetop nest. They did a lot of chirping at us when we came upon them. Check out the tasty morsel one is clutching.

 

Idaho claims this lake as an unspoiled jewel.  That is probably a bit of an over statement since there is really quite a bit of development on the shoreline.  Still, it is a beautiful place and we had a perfect last day to enjoy it.

Going on a bear hunt

It is huckleberry season and the best berries are along forest openings at elevations 4000ft and above. Hugh’s Meadow is one such place.  Off we go hoping to find ripe huckleberries and bears that are enjoying them.  Pavement turns to graded gravel to not-so-graded gravel.  The sign says 7 more miles. Kent is maneuvering through pot holes now.  Just three more miles to go; the road splits with no marking sign.  We take the right turn – the left is a mud hole too deep to be sure we can pass.  We are wallowing through pot holes and dodging oil pan scaring rocks.Road to NowhereComp_4656  It is a two track now with grass ever taller between the tires.  We are one narrow lane notched into the mountainside switch-backing our way ever higher.  We pass the promised distance.  Mountain vistas are beautiful but we come to agree that the likelihood of finding any meadow up here seems highly remote. Kent pulls off a slick u-turn and we head back down.  He is dodging and weaving and picking his way through and it starts to rain.

The short story: no meadow, no bears.