The trek up Paget Lookout trail is a bit of a challenge with an elevation change of 1,700 ft that brings us to a beautiful 6,928 ft.  Early switchbacks make a steep cut through dense undergrowth so we do a bit of talking to the bears whenever we are not too winded to do so.   It is a great walk we just take it slow enjoying patches of wildflowers that carpet every sunny clearing.  Mountain goats make an appearance on the slopes across the valley.  They are pretty far away but recognizable.  This hike is really about the view from the top.  The wide braided milky-blue Kicking Horse River winds it way down the long valley between steep treed slopes with snow-capped peaks towering above.  It is impressive.  Some anonymous soul built a bench using snow boards complete with a photo image of Emerald Lake Lodge.  It is perfectly placed.   We hang out at the top for an hour. 

A side trail takes us to Sherbrooke Lake perched up a side valley cut by the Sherbrooke River.  We cross plank bridges.  Lush vegetation hugs the trail’s edge and encircles the glacial lake then gives way to talus slopes and finally bare rock peaks.   A solitary loon floats, preening, silent, not too worried about visitors.  We rest for a spell basking in the quiet.  Both Sherbrooke and Emerald are beautiful lakes but something is lost when the crowds get too big.  I prefer Sherbrooke by far even if it is (maybe because it is) harder to get to.     

First, we are off to Takakkaw Falls.  It is the tallest falls in Western Canada, nearly 800 feet and it is running full today fed by silt laden glacier meltwater.  It is beautiful.  The access road has a section of steep switchbacks that larger vehicles actually have to back down a section to make the turns.  Kent has flashbacks from our last trip out here and is once again grateful that we are in the car not the motorhome let alone the motorhome and trailer.  We stroll and relax on a perfectly placed park bench. 

It is peak tourist season here and lots of the natural attractions have very little parking so we hang out in camp a while waiting for crowds to thin out then head for Emerald Lake.  Sunlight bouncing off the fine glacier flour suspended in the lake gives it a unique green grey color.  Bare, rugged peaks rise high above the wooded shoreline.  A loon calls out.  It is not a north country lake without one!  A leisurely lap around the lake is a great ending for the day.            

The campground sits in a bowl surrounded by peaks 8500 to 9500 ft with glaciers adorning the high-altitude flanks of many of them.  We didn’t climb a peak today but we did hike Glacier Crest, the ridge formed between the Vaux and the Illecillewaet glaciers.  Total, 3 1/2 miles each way with 2700 feet elevation change.

We wake to overcast skies and by the time we finish breakfast it is raining.  Rats.  We wait it out and as the temperature comes up just a few degrees the rain stops.  We are off.  Things start pretty easy as we head back along the river and cross the milky glacier silt laden stream.  A few steps beyond the bridge our trail branches off and climb begins in earnest.  First it is long steep switchbacks one after another.  Just when we think that is tough it devolves into an even steeper rocky sheep trail that seems to go on forever.  Humidity is high in the dense pine forest and the climb is exhausting.  We make a few stops to rest and to check out the wildflowers and the mountain views.  There are spots of blue sky and brilliant sunlight on the mountain snow caps.  Our journey ends in the boulder field near the top of the ridge where we find a perfect spot to relax and take in the view.  A pica pokes its head out from among the boulders for just a moment.  They are even cuter than marmots.   Today is a good day! 

Gotta go back down.  The steep grade pounds the knees and loose, uneven rock, and a bit of mud from the earlier rain, threaten to twist ankles.  We are home relaxing with the sun on our faces and the Illecillewaet River dancing at our feet.  Today is indeed good.    

Nakusp makes a pretty good stop to do a little exploring of this rugged country.  We start easy, the paved lakefront walk along the shore of Arrow Lake right in town.  Saddle Mountain rises high above Arrow lake where scattered kayaks, canoes and the occasional power boat slice through the still water.  I spy an ice cream shop where I relax in the sun with an English toffee milk shake and Kent his hot fudge sundae. 

A bit more challenging, a nature trail through lush cedar forest.  It has more elevation change than we expected and is intertwined with cross country ski loops resulting in a few minor navigational errors; still, the walk is peaceful and enjoyable.  We spot a summer colored snowshoe rabbit…check out the telltale big feet.

Today’s biggest challenge, 1200ft elevation change on a steep/really steep mile to a lookout, Vicki’s View, above town and the lake.  Overcast skies and a bit of haze mute the colors but the view is still worth the walk.

One more stop, Burton City Cidery.  This place is way off the beaten path but I just have to check it out.  The base cider is dry and not very sweet.  I try almost every offering:  Apple-ginger is a bit over powering, Apple-berry versions just don’t quite suit.  I skipped the one with added hops – definitely not my thing.   I come home with a 2-liter growler of my favorite, Apple-n-Rye, Rye whiskey barrel aged apple cider.  I am going to try not to drink it all before the kids come visit.