Clear Creek

The trail follows the slope of Clear Creek up through a heavily forested ravine.  The sound of water tumbling across rocks is our near-constant companion.  My kind of trail!  We start with a creek crossing then move into heavy aspen and willow so thick and untamed that it is encroaching on the trail.  We don’t have any trouble following the path but the vegetation is wet and we are now too.  We break out the raincoats when a light rain moves in but continue to move up along the creek.  The rain stops as quickly as it began.  Aspens have thinned and we are surrounded by pines now.  Scat and animal tracks confirm that wildlife appreciates this area too.  It looks like we’re moving through the home of moose, elk, deer, bear, and probably fox.  We come upon scattered forest clearings where tall grasses are dotted with a rainbow of wildflower colors.  Woodland birds dart about rarely stopping long enough to even attempt identifying them. Kent does get a good look at this Western Tanager.  It is getting muddy and badly eroded making it hard on the ankles.  We turn back after 2 ¾ miles. It has been a good morning.

Thank you to the gentleman at the Montpelier District Ranger Station.  He recommended this hike as a foot trail only, quiet and through an area frequented by wildlife.

Onto the Mesa

Today it’s up onto the Mesa.  We start out early hoping to optimize wildlife sighting and to avoid the thunderstorms forecast nearly every afternoon. Once on top of the mesa we drive out to Observation Point.  A mostly well-maintained gravel road crosses through mixed forest and open meadows. Wildflowers are spectacular with predominant colors changing area by area based on moisture, shade, wind and I don’t know what else.  Wild life viewing continues to be disappointing.  We see cattle, they have grazed livestock here for decades, and very tame chipmunks at the observation point.  Below us from the point we look out across a wide arid valley sided by basalt capped cliffs and eroded slopes painted muted rust and tan.  Smooth mounds are scattered on the valley floor, oddly placed and shaped.  All this the product of eons of erosion as the Gunnison and Colorado Rivers come together here.  Now, man has made our own mark as the city of Grand Junction and local agriculture with its associated irrigation have created a sprawling green-grey oasis.  I wonder what it looked like when only the ribbons of green of the two rivers traced along the valley floor?  Heading back from the point we hike the Raber Cow Cabins trail thigh high through the flowering meadows and among cabins dating from early ranching days.  I could look at this view every morning.

 

 

 

Back in the lake section we walk the banks of Mesa Lake.  It is lovely, mostly shaded and cool.  We had been warned about mosquitoes and we find them on this trail.   Even with plenty of repellant they find us if we dally too long or disturb the brush.  Fishing is a big thing up here and we see quite a few rainbow trout in the clear lake.

A trail closer to home

A trail listed as hiking and equestrian only leaves from the back of camp and passes through wilderness area for its entire length.  That’s our plan for today.  Just into the hike the trail turns to cross Lottis Creek, no bridge.  The water is high and fast, too much to wade through in boots.  We detour 1/4 mile or so up-creek to find a log large enough that we brave crossing.   We return to the trail to weave through thick forest along the creek path. We spot a deer and numerous scat piles that look like elk might at least pass through.  A section of the creek looks like perfect beaver and moose habitat. We dawdle and check it out; but, no moose.  No beaver.  We spot a perfect marmot rock pile and spend our break scanning for movement.  Nope, no marmots.  We turn back about 3 miles out the trail and trace our steps back to camp. The trail follows a slight slope so not too strenuous; add the sound of the creek tumbling across boulders on its way downhill and the cool forest shade to make for a nice morning walk.

We have been pleasantly surprised that camp has not been over-run by off road vehicles

Wildflowers here we come

After a quiet night, we are on a mission to check out the wildflowers.  This weekend is actually the last couple days of the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival and there have been many reports of how amazing they are this year.  We choose one of the festival recommended trails, Snodgrass Mountain, head out pretty early for the drive to put us on the trail by 8:30 or so.  The area is amazing with entire hillsides painted mostly shades of yellow but dotted with purple, blue, red, white and orange.  Snow capped peaks ring the valley along with the namesake crested butte.  Wow!  We hike about 4 miles through meadows and treed terrain.  What a great time of year to be here.

North from town a driving loop reaches further up into the mountains.  Kent’s up for a bit more challenging driving, this is NOT all paved.  We start out high above then along the East River and the lush green valley that envelopes it.  I spot an elk.  Cool.  Wildflowers are still around but the show now is the surrounding mountains.  We get lots of pictures and find a spectacular lunch spot. The pictures don’t do it justice.  Two marmots cavort on the rock pile providing lunchtime entertainment.  We won’t be finishing the loop drive.  We meet a Crested Butte bound driver who reports that some earlier driver overestimated his skills and is stuck in remaining snow pack.  They have blocked the road and no one is getting through.  So, home we go.

Crested Butte, the wildflower capital of Colorado

We head out today for the first of two stops to explore the high mesas of central/western Colorado. The area is sparsely populated and nearly all designated as National Forest.  We make our way along US50 west again, in the motorhome this time, to cross Monarch Pass and on to Gunnison where we turn on to county and forest routes.  The last 17 miles climb Taylor Canyon sharing the tree-shrouded route with the Taylor River.  We settle in then set out to explore on up the canyon to Cottonwood Pass.

Turns out I missed a detail or two in my planning research. First, this entire national forest corridor has been specifically designed for off road vehicle recreation.  Everything from dirt bikes to quads to full size off-road vehicles can run these trails.  The word to hikers, watch out!  Had I known, we likely would have steered clear.  But, here we are.  Second, lots of online sources describe the road to Cottonwood Pass as rugged, high clearance, 4-wheel drive only.  Not!  The entire distance is now paved.

On up to Cottonwood Pass. There are switchbacks and hairpin curves and quite a bit of traffic but the drive is lovely and pretty easy.  We are in the Sawatch Range and the pass is at 12,119 ft elevation, the highest paved crossing of the continental divide in the US.  We hike up another couple hundred feet to an amazing view on a trail that winds through a wildflower covered alpine meadow.  It is beautiful in every direction. Trails go on from here but we hang for a bit then head back down then to camp for a quiet evening. The host says there was a bear in camp last week.  I’ll believe it when I see it!

Monarch Pass

We go for an easy day today.  First, a quiet stroll along the river in Salida where we watch “surfers” ride the whitewater and enjoy morning sweet treats from Little Red Hen Bakery.  The lemon bar and three berry muffin are both wonderful. I love the name of the place.  We found it last time we came through and are glad to see it is still in business.

Then, we are on to Monarch pass via US50 to check out the view from 11,312 feet and with a gondola ride up to the top, 12,000ft.  The gondola ride is a bit exciting as the cars bounce in the wind.  It is clear and we see Pikes Peak and The San Juan Mountains, about 80 miles.  We hang and enjoy the views for a bit then are on our way.  The rest of the day is filled with some shopping to restock and prep to move tomorrow.  On to Crested Butte and a quiet National Forest Campground, Lottis Creek.

Into the Wilderness

The front or west side of Browns Canyon National Monument protects the Arkansas River Canyon while allowing lots of development in all but the canyon proper. The east side is a Wilderness Study area with no development and access only by foot or horseback. Often these wilderness areas are great for wildlife viewing since they see much lower visitor traffic and typically require a long hike through front country to access. Here, it looks like we can drive a back route to a remote trailhead and jump right in. We are going to check it out.
Its forecast to be 93F today and we should have gotten a bit earlier start but the trail is in the national forest so we anticipate some pretty good shade and its just 30 some miles to the trailhead. We should be ok.
Just out of Salida we start dirt road. It is a bit narrow and quite twisty but good dirt road as we wander past the vacation homes built above town. Settlement stops and the road condition deteriorates. It is narrower and rougher and twistier as we wind our way around a quarry. It is all county routes and with each number change the road seems a bit less frequently maintained. We come upon a mountain town, Turret. Every single side street has big no trespassing and private property sign with warning to stay on the county route. All other property is overseen by the Turret HOA. Stay out. Ok, we stay to our route and carry on. Now we are definitely on the road less traveled. Brush is encroaching from both sides and wildflowers share the two-track path. Drainage is accomplished by cutting a ditch across the road and loose rock is strewn across steep climbs. We pass through sandy sections and many sections too steep to see the road over the hood or so tight a turn there is no way to tell if any one is coming. Turns out that isn’t a problem. We don’t meet another vehicle anywhere along the narrow route. Our little truck is in low gear 4-wheel drive but doing all that Kent asks of it. We are about 8 miles out what we think will be 10 miles of terrible road when, silence. The truck just shuts off. OMG, what’s that about. We still wonder; but it started right up like nothing happened. Whew! Ultimately washouts and steep roadcuts make it impassable. Kent backs to a wide spot and we hike in what turns out to be the last ¼ mile to the trailhead.
This is why we came here, a walk through wild space with hopes of seeing deer maybe elk and maybe even bear. It is rugged and beautiful as we move along first an old two track road then dry stream beds. Granite monoliths rise high above us with pinon pine and juniper in the valleys between them. We do notice there is not much shade and that the trail is often soft sand underfoot. Neither is what we were expecting. We manage to get off trail following the path of what must have been a trail ride. We wind up trailblazing up and down three ridges and their associated troughs. It’s getting hot and we are a bit tired and exasperated at the difficulty finding the trail. One more climb and tada, we are back on the trail and heading for high ground where we find fantastic long mountain views out over the valley to surrounding 14000s. We are feeling the heat and elevation so cut the hike a bit short and head back. So far one cottontail and a couple chipmunks. Good thing the views were nice.
We take quite a few breaks but make it safely to the truck. Retrace our route along the backcountry roads. Head on back to camp and collapse in the air conditioning.
Overall. It is a beautiful, quiet hike. The drive out to the trailhead is probably too much. If you do go, you definitely do not want to do it on a 90+ day in the brilliant sun. And don’t forget your hat.

Moving on: Alvarado Campground

We are heading into the mountains in search of cooler air.  We make our way to Alvarado Campground in the San Isabel National Forest on the east flank of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains.  It is at 9000 ft elevation and around 75F when we arrive.  Ah, it is lovely. Check out this view from our site.

The camp host stops by as we are settling in.  “Be on the lookout, there has been a black bear in camp the past few nights.”  We are excited at the prospect of seeing it and keep an eye out all afternoon and evening.  We fit in a stroll to check out the rest of the camp.  It is a lovely place.  As for the bear, no luck today.  We will keep an eye out in the morning then its back down the mountain to Westcliffe and the High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass Festival.

Frontier Pathways Byway

Today we are out for a drive through San Isabel National Forest.  The start is near camp in the sage brush plains.  Not too exciting in itself but we do spot prong horn and a Golden Eagle.  Before long we find the rolling foothills then began to climb in earnest into the wet mountains to elevation above 9000 feet.  We started early hoping to see wildlife.  Despite dedicated spotting efforts no mega fauna…coulda shoulda been elk and bear.   Still, it is beautiful.

What an amazing roadside find, a one-man project, Bishop Castle.  It is three stories of stone and iron with flying walkways, stained glass, seemingly endless spiral staircases and a dragon head.  We climb and weave our way through towers and inner rooms.  What fun.  Kent makes his way high into the spherical topworks of the tower.  You could climb around for hours searching for hidden chambers and stairways in this structure.

We stretch our legs on the circle trail around Lake Isabell.  There is lots of fishing happening but according to the folks we talked to not much catching.  Rainbow trout are the target catch.  We cruise through the NF campgrounds and picnic areas all along a creek and nestled in the edges of the thickly wooded valley.  There are a few sites that could accommodate us….someday maybe.

Pueblo City Park has rides!

Pueblo City Park has rides!

I’m most interested in the carousel.  It is #72, county fair style, built in 1911 as the 72nd by Parker Amusement Abilene KS.  The current complement of carved horses isn’t all the originals but they all date to the early 1900s.   I am doubly excited because they even have a working band organ.   Sadly, they only play it evenings so I miss out on my afternoon ride.  Bummers, watching the instruments and hearing that distinct sound is a big part of the carousel experience.  Still, it was a fun ride and only $0.50.