We have been here four days and I just figured out that is what the local weather guys are saying. ‘Cause we are in the Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi tri-state area. Dah.
It is rainy and chilly with a thick fog here in camp along the river but we head into Natchez hoping weather will improve as the day goes on. The city is perched high on bluffs above the Mississippi with what should be a great view…maybe a little later if the fog clears? We tour the William Johnson House managed by the Natchez National Historic Park then go for a southern BBQ lunch at the Pig Out Inn. Not bad. After lunch, the weather has improved a bit and we stroll through historic downtown to check out lots of great old architecture. There are some beautiful bed and breakfast if you are into that sort of thing. Ok, lets try the Riverwalk. It is still gloomy but the view is much improved. We even head into the “under the hill” section of old Natchez. As you might guess, it is the area at the foot of the flood wall, at the base of the bluff, on the lower riverbank. As you also might guess, it was the red light district and home of all activities unwholesome in those booming river traffic years. It is pretty gentrified now-a-days with a few fun sounding clubs, restaurants and accommodations. It is quiet now but might well be jumping on a warm summer night.
Chilly and a bit damp we head home. It is a chance to enjoy a few more miles of the peaceful Natchez Trace parkway.

Not for our next trip through : the Frogmore Cotton Plantation. They aren’t doing tours right now.

Grand Gulf Military Monument State Park in Port Gibson, Mississippi. The river town of Grand Gulf is long gone thanks to yellow fever, a freak tornado, the ever-meandering Mississippi River and of course, the Civil war. Confederate troops dug in here and for a time managed to slow the advance of Union ships up river to Vicksburg. It was a proud end for this little southern town. The area now houses a museum, several 1860s and earlier structures and a collection of carriages and wagons. Check out this hearse. The story told here is clearly one born of confederate tenacity and southern pride.
The park is on the banks of the Mississippi and a bit out of the way but an amazingly quiet retreat where the air is filled with bird calls and deer roam through camp every day. One oddity, the nuclear power plant cooling tower just to our south. I wondered about the siren towers along all the roads and the bright red mileage markers counting up as we head away from camp in any direction. It doesn’t really bother me to be this close but it does seem a bit odd to think that when we see the steam from the tower on the horizon, we know we are almost home.

Just imagine the footsteps before us: prehistoric Mississippian Indians, Native American Indians, trappers, settlers, farmers, soldiers… oh, the stories it could tell if this land could talk.

Stop in at The Lower Mississippi River Museum in Vicksburg. Exhibits tell the story of the river and people who live/lived along its banks. It is a Corp of Engineers facility so there is lots of info on flood control techniques and river navigation improvements. You can wander below decks on the decommissioned Mississippi IV, a COE tug/inspection boat. It is sunny and warm today, perfect for a picnic lunch on the riverbank.

The road through Vicksburg National Military Park is lined with monuments and statues. Simple granite blocks identify the regiments that battled here and are etched with the names of young lives lost. Elaborate bronze statues celebrate their leaders and capture for posterity a message of unity and healing after both sides had lost so much. These visuals help understand and learn from history. I hope the fervor for removing “offending” art never makes it into our National Military Parks.

I think of the Civil War as a bloody brawl where hand to hand combat and cannon fire left fields littered with bodies in blue and in grey. There was a bloody brawl here in Vicksburg but it was something else too. The surrender at Vicksburg was brought on by starvation and disease inflicted by 45+ days under siege. Blockade of supplies and constant bombardment punished civilian and soldier alike until they could no longer endure. It is a stark reminder; war is ugly business and the “good guys” get their hands very dirty too.

Lunch at Bop’s: Mississippi Delta tamales and soft serve custard. The tamales are tasty with a bit of kick and something fun to try. The custard is fantastic.

Who could skip a festival with a name like that? Our timing was off for the local entertainment but we did find some pretty good eats, pulled pork, ribbon potatoes, and some very tasty cookies.   I managed not to buy anything from the dozens of booths: magnetic bracelets, very flashy clothing, bedazzled hats and much much more.  It was a fun diversion,