So, what did we do here?

Down time:

Beach time is pretty sweet. In the early mornings and in the evenings the beach is quiet and private.  It gets busy during the day but we can still claim suitable spots to relax.  There is reading and Frisbee and napping.  Everyone manages to make it through the week without serious sunburn.

New experiences:

Snorkeling, there are a few patches of coral close to the beach and they attract some of the beautiful colorful fish. It is Johnna’s first try and it starts with some sputtering and leaky mask but by the end of the week she got the hang of it and spotted some critters too.

Deep sea fishing: we headed out about 7 miles on a 40 foot charter boat (The Doubleheader) with captain Eddie and mate Nick that worked pretty hard to find us fish to catch. Tracy wins the prize for largest fish and most impressive fight to bring it on board.  Check out this picture of her 20 pound mahi mahi.  It is the one fish we kept.  We enjoyed two fantastic meals of the 10 pounds of filets it provided.  Kent, Lynn, Mike and Brian all had a chance to crank one in too.  Three were Gar and Mike’s a jack tuna.  We released those to grow for another day.  Seas grew to 10 foot waves as wee trolled in circles.  It was a bit more than Johnna’s tummy could stand but she bounced right back after a short bout of feeding the fishes.

 

Stand up paddle boarding: There were some really un-graceful climbs onto the board and totally uncontrolled dismounts but it was great fun.  There was a bit of wind and waves so the best rides were had a little further out from shore where waves were just rolls…of course you have to get out there before you can enjoy it.

Note to those who might consider trying this – apparently adjustable SUP paddles do not float. We are proud owners of a paddle that now rests somewhere on the sea floor off St John.

 

Camp time:

Mike was our master mixologist, he is still in liver defense mode so he’s not drinking…makes sense to make him bartender right? He mastered the pina colada and concocted some tasty, less standard coconut/rum drinks.

Evenings included cards, Uno and Phase 10, and some time decorating for Christmas.

The family that cooks together stays together…well, something like that! We grilled jerk chicken and fried plantains.  Christmas dinner was some fantastic Mahi mahi tacos.  We finished off the mahi mahi by stirring up our individual versions of awesome fish salad.

Out and about

Cruz Bay: out for dinner – Fish Trap – we are checking out some local cuisine.

Cruz Bay: out for dinner – Asolare – Kudos to Mike and Tracy for their pick (they had enjoyed this place while on their honeymoon trip).  The bartender is wonderfully creative.  The food is absolutely delicious.  The desserts top it off just right.  Add to that a fantastic view and great company.  I couldn’t have asked for more.

The local wildlife – feral donkeys, feral chickens (that is weird), iguana, anole lizards and mongoose, they are everywhere. A few white tail deer hang out right in camp.

A drive to the east end provides impressive shoreline views.

St. John bound

Everybody (Mike, Tracy, Brian and Johnna) is here, cars are rented, groceries are purchased and we head for the ferry and our home for a week, Cinnamon Bay Campground in Virgin Islands National Park.  As we had been forewarned, the ferry line is long and slow moving.  The view is nice and they have a little bar that offers a bit of a diversion during the wait.  There is a little drama as patience grows thin (Jeep drivers seem to feel a bit entitled).  The crossing consumes about 4 hours and pushes us to an after dark arrival at camp.  We are firmly on island time now.

Camp check in is a bit rocky but the security guard comes to the rescue to point us toward our tents and find us some linens. We scattered to our respective digs and crash for the night with the sound of the crashing waves and singing tree frogs filling our ears

USVI here we come

Flying…it is always an adventure! Miami TSA folks are decidedly terse and unorganized.  They just herd folks around and stand in the way talking to one another.  We make it though in plenty of time and the flight is uneventful.  So far, ok.  We are on the ground in St Thomas; that’s a unique airport.  We deplane through open-air roll around steps and traipse the length of the terminal outdoors before we enter the steamy crowded baggage claim area.  Car rental pickup is our first taste of “Island time” customer service but it goes fairly smoothly and we are on our way.

Bunker Hill Hotel in Charlotte Amalie

The drive was short but not uneventful. My navigating via a marginal rental car map led us to a tour of town on amazingly narrow curvy city streets.  We had to concede defeat and stop to ask a local for directions.  “Oh, you are not even close.”  He proceeded to draw a great map that led us right there.  We still had to contend with the street in front of the hotel changing to one way against us but we figured it out.  About this time Kent figures out that our Garmin mostly works here so navigating got much simpler for the rest of the trip.

It is a fun little place to say. It seems to grow organically up the steep slopes with a couple guestrooms or the restaurant or pool on each level so there are steps no matter which way you want to go.

We had dinner on property at the Sugar cane Grill. Drinks were tasty; Rum Punch, Pina Colada, and a daiquiri.  We start with some delicious jerk chicken then go all seafood, a seafood medley for Kent a grilled octopus salad for me.  A slice of key lime pie tops it off nicely.

We walk Main Street; can you say Cruise Ship Shopping Mecca.  I don’t think I have ever seen this many jewelry stores per block anywhere else.  A relaxing walk back along the shoreline was a better part of the stroll for me.  Wednesday morning we check out Blackbeard’s Castle and 99 steps as part of a walk through the historic district.  The views a beautiful.

Homely, in a cute sort of way

Who could resist this face?

 

We roll out of bed at 6:15AM to a cool foggy morning. It is time to go find the manatees.  These huge water dwelling relatives of the elephant spend cool winter nights in the relative warmth of natural springs that discharge into the Gulf.  Today we are kayaking to Three Sisters Spring that feeds into Kings Bay in Crystal River FL. Fog thickens as we approach the shoreline.  Once out on the water visibility is really poor.  As we silently paddle along the shrouded shore we are grateful that powerboats are all running no-wake speed throughout the bay.  We turn upstream toward the spring discharge and it isn’t long ‘til the fun begins.

 

Powerful strokes of their tails create smooth circles on the surface of the water and are the first signs that the manatee are swimming just below us. A snout appears and emits a big sneeze sort of sound as it exhales and takes in a breath before sinking back below the surface.  A huge form, easily ¾ the length of my kayak slides past me.  It is thrilling to be so close to them.  The actual headwaters of the spring are roped off today, waters are shallow and visibility poor so the protectors of the manatees keep the public out.  That’s ok though, in the main channel we come upon dozens, perhaps as many as 100 manatees resting and feeding.  They don’t seem to mind our kayaks or the dozen or so forms in wetsuits and snorkels floating among them.  We see mothers and calves and some elders that are actually as big as the kayaks.  The juveniles are the most curious and approach both kayaks and swimmers to check us out.

 

We enjoyed day one with the manatees so much that we get up early again and do it all over. It is a bit warmer, there is much less fog, and the spring water is clearer.  It should be another good manatee watching day.  We meet up with our first manatees of the day floating contentedly at Hunter’s Spring.  It is a fun find but we can’t resist returning to Three Sisters to hang out with the big crowd we saw yesterday.  Their numbers are fewer today but they make up for it in their activity and interest.  We have some great encounters and Kent gets some fun footage on his go-pro.

 

The manatees seem to be thriving here. Their numbers in Florida have rebounded from fewer than 500 to over 6000.  I hope the close encounters with people don’t disturb them too much.  We have tried kayaking and snorkeling among them; each is a marvelous encounter with one of natures amazing creatures.

 

How could I forget, we saw Manny the Manatee too. I guess he is sort of the mascot of the Three Sisters Spring area.  I bet the guy in that costume is glad that manatee only congregate here in the winter…so he isn’t out here in that getup when it is 100+ and sticky humid.

Amazing diversity

The Lower Suwannee NWR protects a huge swath of coastal wetlands and marsh along the Florida Gulf Coast.  Inky black water pools in the bogs.  Winter paints the cypress groves a golden brown.  Thick understory creates impenetrable tangles that make seeing into the area difficult let alone walking there.  The wildlife drive offers a good look at the diversity of habitats but offers up no actual wildlife for us to see.  All are well hidden today.

From a viewing tower out on the open marshland the cord grass sways in the breeze for nearly as far as the eye can see. Flocks of birds rise from the hidden pools, swirl about then disappear again from vies.  There are pelicans, ibis, yellowlegs, ducks of various kinds and others that I can’t quite identify.  It is an ok place to relax for a few.

Snake!

It could have been a stick; but, it wasn’t. The trail in Manatee Springs State Park winds its way through wetlands filled with graceful cypress draped in moss, around ponds, and across long stretches of sandy soil.  It is chilly as we get started and only the woodpeckers and flickers are out and about.  Soon bright sunlight warms things up along the open sections of trail.  That’s where we find our little buddy. Kent is leading as we make our way along a fence line.  I hear, “stop”.  I did of course. Kent has stepped right over a rat snake lying perfectly still in the middle of the trail.  We get a pretty good look before it gives up on the freeze- and-they-won’t-see-me tactic and slithers off into the brush.

Beaver Lake Campground, Quincy, FL

Don’t do it. It wasn’t a bad place but the gal at the check in just randomly raised the price as I was checking in. “I have to add $3 for you. You’re really big.” They advertise “any sized rig”. We fit in the space without disrupting traffic or otherwise affecting others. I should have checked the reviews ahead of time. It turns out that there are other complaints of creative rate adjustment. It is more the principle than the actual dollars but it is irritating.