It is 7:05 AM and we are anxiously awaiting Brian and Johnna
at baggage claim. The flight is right on time, even with the Boeing 737 Max8
groundings…..
We head to Homies for some much-acclaimed cinnamon rolls and
we are not disappointed. They are fresh,
hot and delicious. We have eggs and
bacon and great hash browns but the rolls are the stars of the show.
Home for the week is at Willow Beach Campground on the
Colorado river so we gather up, break camp, and head on down the road. We set up camp and spend a quiet evening
before early to bed; it has been a long day for everyone
By mid-day we are settled into Kings Row Trailer Park. We ARE in Vegas; the trailer park has a neon
sign. The place is about as classy as it
sounds but it is safe, clean, has a laundry and is close to grocery shopping so
just about perfect for our prep day before Brain and Johnna join us.
We grab dinner at Tommy’s, a Burger chain that is spilling
over from California. The Caliente burger
certainly lived up to its name. I have
heartburn before I swallow the last bite.
It is delicious though.
Thursday included a couple of hikes on the northern part of
the park. We had traversed the dirt road
across to the north earlier before the latest rain and noted the uniform brown
color splattered on the official white pickup that came into camp via the dirt
road. So today we started our driving by
going around via paved roads. It adds
about 50 miles and zero time. The dirt
roads are pretty rough courtesy of the flooding rains they had about 2 weeks
ago. We finished our hikes around 2 pm
and feeling brave we headed toward home across the rough but passible dirt
roads. This route would have been really
fun yesterday as I noticed tracks in the road indicating someone had been
traveling with tire chains yesterday. Fortunately,
it had dried quite a bit since then and there was only one real muddy
spot. We noticed heavy equipment tracks
as well. That is good, maybe they have
worked on the many places where sand was washed onto the road and portions
where edges were washed out earlier.
We were on the home stretch when we met a ranger about 2
miles from camp, “We just pulled a car
out of the sand ahead. It is only soft
for about 50 yards. You’re going
downhill so keep your momentum up and don’t spin the wheels and you should be
fine.” Well that adds a little stress to
the trip. Now, we can turn around and go
back about 80 miles or we can take our chances in the sand pit. We have come
this far, we may as well at least give it a look. When we get to the area it appears when they
worked on it today they must have removed too much roadbed and were left with only
deep sand. Opps! Anyhow it seemed passable so we slogged
through and found our way home. It was a
little challenging but we made it.
Probably will go around if we need to go this way again. We had considered taking this route with the
motorhome, THAT would be a mistake now.
Update! While finishing breakfast we noted (4) rolloff dumpster delivery trucks with tagalong trailers hauling empty dumpsters past camp. They had already passed the sand pit which was kind of a surprise. In about 1 hour the empty trucks and trailers went past camp going toward the sand pit presumably headed back to Las Vegas. It wasn’t long until we noticed a Preserve Backhoe scurrying up the road toward the sandpit. Over the next couple of hours various combinations of the trucks went by in various directions until apparently the backhoe was successful in freeing the 1st truck and clearing a path so all the trucks could make it north. Seems like it must have been a fun morning for all involved. We enjoyed watching all the activity out the Motorhome window.
It is all about the view.
We wander through an amazing stand of Joshua Trees on Teutonia Peak trail. The trees are huge and beautifully branched
more like a maple or an oak than a yucca plant.
It seems that Cima Dome, a smooth even bulge in the desert that is about
10 miles across, provides the perfect habitat for these odd plants. From our perch on rocks near Teutonia Peak, we
gaze at rugged mountain ranges in the distance with the carpet of Joshua trees
at our feet. It is worth the walk, even
at a chilly 45F and strong winds.
Since we are out, we head for Rock Spring Trail where a natural spring provides year-round water, a very rare thing in the desert and a great place to look for wild life. It means more rough dirt road but we get there fine and I love the rock house at the trailhead. Check it out….it needs a bit of work but would be a pretty cool place to chill out. It is a nice walk out to the spring, more of a seep right now, but no critters to be found. Perhaps it would be better near evening but this place is a little to difficult to get around in to be out wandering after dark.
It is a short drive to our next stop, Hole in The wall
Campground in the southern section of the preserve. Rugged mountain ranges cut through the long
stretches of creosote dominated desert.
We settle in then head for the visitor center since they are closed Tues
and Wed and I always like to check in with them to see if there is anything
special going on during our stay. It is
a bit of an adventure since we set out on the shorter path; 38 miles rather
than 60 miles. The catch, 16 of those 38
are on dirt road. There is a lot of pot
hole dodging and washboard rattling and we are grateful we were not here a
couple weeks ago when they got all the big rain. The road must have been impassable
then. I enjoy the views as Kent endures
the drive. We make our stop then come
home via the paved roads. It wasn’t a
mistake but it is a decision we probably won’t make again! Back home we are entertained by the many
black tailed jackrabbits that scurry around the wash just outside our window.
There is no power in or even near the campground so it is a
great night sky park – once the neighbors put out their huge bonfire. We even got up in the middle of the
night. We are “only” 70 miles from
Vegas so that light dome is visible but Kent still captures some pretty amazing
views. I just stand in the stillness and
soak it all in. The only interruption is
the low call of great horned owls.
The trailhead for our day 1 trail, Barber Peak, is right
here in camp. We dawdle a bit ‘til the temperature
gets into the 50s then head out. Much of
the trail crosses open range where favorite shaded areas are noticeably dotted
with cow flops. Lots of flops but no cows so far. We travel washes and cross low rocky ridges
as we circle along magnificent cliffs.
Erosion patterns are amazing. In
just 6 miles we cross desolate desert and comparatively lush mountainside
slopes. We are on the lookout for big
horn sheep (again) but find only two cows and an adorable calf. We know where at least some of the freshest
flops have come from.
Our trail intersects The Ring Loop Trail. It is sort of the name sake of the area as it
winds through narrow slots (holes in the wall) in the eroded cliffs. We spot a high eroded recess that is filled
with honeycomb – so that is where they live out here! Two of the canyon slots are steep walled and
high enough to warrant climbing rings to assist the ascent. It is a fun trail….as long as you approach it
clockwise so it is up the rings not down them.
We laze around camp waiting for it to cool off then head for the trailhead about 4PM. Oops, it is a 2 ½ mile trail, if you go down into the crater and who wouldn’t, and it gets dark here by 6PM. We know that it is a rocky uneven climb so not something we want to finish in the dark. New plan, we will hike it tomorrow morning then head on to Mojave Preserve. The overflow lot is a perfect place to boondock. We do a lot of train watching. This big valley seems to be a staging area for the many east-west trains that move through this part of the country. They were lined up like huge caterpillars as we came into the valley and I am sure that one moved through here every half hour all evening and most of the night. We got in some great dark sky star viewing.
Monday morning the temperature is about right and the sun
beautiful but the wind is going to make an exposed hike on the cinder cone rim
an interesting event. We are up for
it. Up close, even the lava flow area
doesn’t seem quite so barren. There are
wildflowers, lizards including chuckwalla and a beautifully colored green -blue
lizard plus more of our usual desert birds.
The ascent up the one trail is loose rock and steep…I regret wearing
shorts. Fractured and wind eroded lava
and pumice make for pretty abrasive stuff that will create some pretty severe
trail rash. We climb up, down through
the crater, back up a really awful trail to the rim, walk about half the rim
with only a few stops when the wind threatened to blow us off, back into the
crater – another trail that is steep and loose rock- then back to the lava
field. I can’t help but imagine the
power involved when this erupted. It must
have been amazing and they claim it was only 500 years ago.
Not quite THE definition of middle of nowhere but pretty darn close! We reach the top of a drive up a steep mountain ridge on Amboy Road and began the slow long descent into a huge valley. The floor is stark creosote studded Mojave Desert with vast swatches of dry lakebed, barren salt flats. Still some 15 miles out, we see the black, symmetric silhouette of the Amboy cinder cone rising up from the desert flats. Closer, we begin to see the lava fields that stretch out from the cone. A few wildflowers dot the desert areas but the cone and lava field look absolutely lifeless from here. On our right we pass one of the dry lakebeds is actively being mined. Equipment dots the horizon and soil is piled seemingly randomly for as far as one can see. Between the piles are trenches or patches of parched bare dirt all cracked and curled up. Signs claim the mine produces sodium chloride and calcium chloride… it is not a pretty sight. It is a good thing someone thought to protect this cool cinder cone and crater from the advancing mine. I doubt that progress would have halted itself. It is a little too hot, bright sun and 83, to head out right now but we plan to hike the cone and crater a bit later this afternoon
Yikes. This is not
the best weather for hiking the ridges on the north side of Joshua Tree at
Black Rock but we head off that way hoping things will settle a little or will
be protected somewhat over there. No
such luck! By the time we get to Black
Rock the wind is still howling, it is in the 50s, and it is spitting rain. We wait a while at the trailhead hoping
things will blow through but it just isn’t going to happen. Neither of us is fond of being cold and damp
so we scrap the idea of a hike and take one last scenic drive through the
park.
We stopped at the Joshua Tree (town) farmers market while we
were on the north side. The wind was
nearly carrying the venders away but they had some great stuff. We left with beautiful (and deliciously
sweet) strawberries, field ripe oranges, locally roasted organic coffee beans,
a loaf of rye/pumpernickel swirl bread and a couple yummy muffins. That stop would have made the trip worthwhile
all by itself.
Joshua Tree campgrounds are full for the weekend so we are
moving out to the BLM land just outside of the park on the south side. There is some traffic noise as it is not far
off I10 but it is tolerable, especially we have our windows closed for these cool
nights. It will give us one more day to
explore.