A Yucca forest

I think desert and I think cactus. Not so much in the Chihuahuna Desert.  There are many prickly pear cacti, three or four types even, but the predominant plants are yucca.  The drive to Dagger Flats introduced us to yucca big and small, beautiful and bedraggled. Elevation changes of only a few hundred feet created an environment different enough to support entirely different species.  Regions of volcanic rock interspersed in the huge expanses of limestone create another variable.  The result, an amazing diversity of plants in this seemingly forbidding place.

It came highly recommended

Our contact at the Judge Roy Bean Saloon and museum/Texas Information Center was pretty vehement about our trying the Pecan cobbler at the Chisos Lodge.  Good call.  It was delicious.  The view from the Lodge restaurant was pretty good too.  I recommend the stop.

Chisos Basin

Well above the desert floor we headed off on the signature mountain hike to the Window. The trail switchbacks down open desert terrain then through the ever narrowing canyon cut by Oak Creek to the point of its exit from the canyon, a magnificent slick rock pour-off.  Through the pour off we were treated to an impressive view of the desert below.  We made this hike our last visit.  Today we extended it to check out an even wider panoramic view from a shelf along Oak Creek Trail just a bit above the pour-off.  It was worth the extra bit of elevation gain.

The Rio Grande makes its exit

The river has carved a grandiose cut though the Sierra Del Carmen Mountains to create Boquillas Canyon.   The ribbon of water disappears around a bend as the canyon walls become so steep that even the most brazen trailblazer is forced to give up.  A couple donkeys graze on the Mexican river flat.  Rock wrens busily probe crevices and eroded holes for tasty tidbits.  A Mexican national serenades each newcomer in hopes of a bit of coin into his collection jar on the US side.  There are more trinkets for sale here too.

Primitive Road excursion

Old Ore Road wonders for 26 miles across the open desert diving into and back out of gullies and across rock strew open spaces.  Mostly it is a “jeep road” but lucky for us the first 5 miles from the south were graded 1 ½ years ago (that is recently here). Kent gingerly guided the Focus along those precious graded miles to Ernst Tinaja (earthen jar in Spanish) and we had a great hike back into a canyon filled with wildly folded rock layers and smooth sided pools.  We stopped when we reached slick rock pour-offs that exceeded our very novice rock climbing skills.   It was well worth the 45 minutes it took to get there.

It doesn’t happen often

We started but turned around without finishing a hike. The Old Ore Trail follows the path of an early 1900s aerial bucket tram that was used to move ore across 6 miles of desert from Mexican mines to the US.  First it follows a wash then takes off up a steep slope demanding careful foot placement and balance as we moved across the rocky steep surface.  We top one grade only to find another and another as the trail moves up and down and along gullies and washouts.  Miles of steel cable, ore buckets, and ruins of the tram line towers stretch across the desert landscape providing an outline of the long abandoned path.  Views are fantastic and we share the space with hardy desert feathered friends including cactus wrens, mockingbirds and various sparrows.  We trudge on carefully watching our feet and stopping often to take in the surroundings.  2 ½ miles into 4, I give out.  Maybe I didn’t drink enough?  Maybe our pace was too fast?  After a half hour break with snack and plenty of water I am up for the trip home but the end of the trail at the tram terminal will have to wait for another day. Kent faired better with the strenuous hike but didn’t argue too vehemently when I declared that I had to turn back.  Not exactly what we planned for the day; but still, another beautiful rugged place visited.  I’m ok with that.

Big Bend National Park

It is all about wide open spaces. From a wind buffeted rock perch high above the campground we watched sunsetSunsetComp_9098 and full moonMoonriseComp_9145 rising against the backdrop of the Sierra Del Carmen Mountains.  Just as the orange faded, really big bats suddenly appeared circling above us.  A bit creepy but cool.  Darkness surrounded us then a soft glow lighted the very edge of the cliffs.  We waited.  Odd how one might get anxious awaiting a moon rise.  It does this every day.  Still, it was wonderful anticipation.  A tiny peek of bright white appeared then it seemed to just pop up into the sky.  The shimmery light threw long, sort of spooky, fun shadows.  It was magnificent.

Blue iridescent spider eyes added a interesting twist to our walk back down the trail. They shimmered like sequins in the LED headlamp.  They seemed to be everywhere.  That was definitely TMI for me.

Trail to Hot Springs canyon

Signs warned us that it would be a hot climb with no shade. So true.  Trail Hot SpringsComp_9009We made to the high point of the trail and a view across the desolate but beautiful Dead Horse Mountains and the cragged Chisos Peaks.  The call of cactus wrens floated across the open country where it was otherwise wonderfully silent.  Occasionally that silence was interrupted by traffic noise reminding us that even in a place like this we are never really far from the footprint of man.

 

Border crossing to Bougalles is open, maybe we will check it out?

Still, a stroll along the Rio Grande brings us to collections of trinkets for sale left here by the Mexican locals who keep careful watch from across the river.