A bridge, a dam, a beer…Manmade wonders of the world.

We checked out the Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge they built to bypass the route across Hoover dam. The sweeping arch and long slender support columns look dainty next to the giant slab of concrete that is Hoover dam. They did a great job with the visitors’ displays that tell the story of the construction and the guys that are memorialized. Well worth the visit.
We strolled across the Hoover Dam. It looks pretty much like it did last time we were there except no through traffic.
Oktoberfest Kingman…..I just had to know how Southwesterners might celebrate brats and beer. The only polka we heard was the canned music between the Bluegrass (not bad) and the rock band (pretty bad). The brat and kraut was yummy and I even tried a beer, pumpkin spice. It was still beer! The Germans make some pretty good wine too, why don’t they ever serve that at Oktoberfest events? We cut out before the chicken dance contest and water holding contest (hold a full stein at arms length the longest). I even got some Mardi Gras-like beads. All I had to do is smile to get them! It was a fun evening.

Route 66 and a pushy burro named Jellybean

Historic Route 66 from Kingman to Oatman, a twisting mountain road that made the drive as much the experience as the destination. It winds between mines, both small and large…at least some of them gold mines; and through acres of desert landscape laced with ocotillo, cholla and barrel cactus and lots of scrub brush. It was a good Miata road.

Oatman is a pretty serious tourist trap. There are lots of little shops but the burros are definitely their real claim to fame. Jellybean stood braying at one of the shop doors and I couldn’t resist. I bought a bag of hay cubes and he became my instant friend, actually my instant pest, until the last cube was gone. Three baby burros with their red “Don’t feed me” stickers on their foreheads were there too. They were still nursing so they didn’t seem to mind the slight. It was a fun stop.

Into the Canyon

We boarded the “Hiker Express” @ 6 am to get to the trailhead. The express skips all the scenic stops along the rim and goes straight to the trailhead. Temperature on the rim was in the low 30’s. We headed down S. Kaibab Trail before 7. S. Kaibab Trail starts at 7,260 and passes Bright Angel Campground just across the Colorado River at 2,480 in 6.8 miles.

On the trail and bus we met several hikers who either were staying at the ranch or had arranged for duffle service so their gear was hauled by mule. Needless to say they were traveling lighter and much faster than we. The N. Kaibab trail continues on past to Roaring Springs and up to the North Rim where we hiked last week. By the time we arrived at camp after 1pm the temp was in the mid 80’s. We still had a little of our 7 liters of water left. At Phantom Ranch we checked out the canteen lemonade and a ranger program. Quiet hours at the campground started at 8pm so we were in bed early. It had nothing to do with the days activities.

Heading back up.

The alarm went off at 5:30 (1 hr prior to sunrise). Around sunrise the campground was about 70% vacant. Many were hiking to the rim and the rest of us were just trying to beat the heat during the climb. From Bright Angel Campground to Indian Garden Campground (elevation 3,800 ft, climb 1,200 ft) is 4.6 miles. We arrived at Indian Garden before 11 and beat the real heat. We cooled our bare toes at Victor’s Oasis, fed by Garden Creek in the campground.

Out of the sleeping bag before 5

Tuesday we started by the light of a nearly full moon. A few really rocky spots were supplemented with flashlight. We stopped on a point for sunrise. With the early start we arrived at the rim shortly after 10 am. 4.6 miles and 3,000 ft. of vertical climb. By starting early we avoided the heat as the canyon walls provided shadows. Not that we didn’t get warm, just not hot. We watched a California Condor soaring on the thermals even though is was early. We expected their flights to be more active around mid-day when the air temp and thermals really get going. No water concerns today as Bright Angel trail follows the water supply line from the north rim and has 2 refill locations in today’s trek.
The motorhome was awaiting our return in the parking lot located near backcountry office and trailhead. Hot showers were a high priority. Ahh!

If you are going:

Take camp shoes. Your feet will be screaming to get OUT of those boots.
Take a bathing suit or clothes to splash in the Creek. It was the informal cool down in camp and looked like great fun.
Stay at Bright Angle camp. It is a beautiful oasis in the narrow Bright Angel Canyon. Creekside sites fill early.
Stay out of the sun, even if you have to hike at night or pre-dawn.
The moonlight hiking and awakening of the canyon were pretty cool.
Pack light!
Hike down Kaibab and up Bright Angel. Those guys who recommend that order are right.
Be prepared to pack out your toilet paper….super gross! That would have been a first for me but we lucked out, potties had not closed for the season yet so my ziplock came home empty.
Yielding to the mule trains is a good thing. It gives you a chance to catch your breath and take in what’s around you.
The ground is really hard when your muscles are tired and your joints are aching.

Below the Rim

The place: Awesome, inspiring, magnificent, grand, huge, phenomenal, cool, hot, bright, moonlit, muddy red Colorado (it’s smell and the sight), bats, high cliff edges, deep canyons, cool shade of cottonwood tree oasis, solitary prickly pear cactus, babbling Bright Angle Creek, amazing, solitary silence, suspension bridges, sparkling star filled sky, composting pit toilets, mule poop

The journey: exciting, exhausting, fun,
humbling, challenging, satisfying, a sense of accomplishment, invigorating, camaraderie
of fellow hikers, annoying behavior of fellow hikers (headlamps, peeing in
public)