Off to the west side of the park today

It is surprisingly chilly as we slide out of bed by 6AM.  Desert weather is a bit bizarre.  We have a two-hour drive in front of us as we head for Santa Elena Canyon.  Another hot day is forecast so we want to get an early start on the trail into the canyon. There is a heavy haze in the park muting the normally spectacular long mountain views but the drive is uneventful and we are anxious to get out along the river.  We spot mule deer and horses near the river — cows too. Parked and geared up we head for the trail.   Rats, Terlingua Creek is running high and has created a gummy muddy mess just at the base of the bluff above Santa Elena Canyon.  We have to cross to pick up the trail that runs back into the canyon along the magnificent cliffs carved by the Rio Grande.  Hikers ahead of us sink mid-calf deep in sticky muck.  We know it is a beautiful walk but, No thanks!  We wander along the rocky shore and Johnna even gets her toes wet but we opt not to make the sticky crossing and instead move on the check-out other points of interest.

We check out a bit of regional history at Castolon then enjoy a leisurely return drive through the desert with views up the Chisos Mountains.

Once home, Brian jumps in to help make icing for his own bday cake.  Who am I to turn down help?  Cake and icing are low carb/keto friendly.  We sample and it seems promising.  Tomorrow will tell.

Dinner is grilled shrimp and garlic butter riced cauliflower with spinach.  Delicious.  We have just enough heat left in the charcoal fire for s’mores.  No, I haven’t found a recipe for a keto friendly version of those!

Day 2

We opt for a quiet day and sleep in a bit then check out a great outdoor Fossil exhibit.  Canyon walls thousands of feet high provide great opportunity for some of the best and easiest accessible dinosaur fossil records anywhere.  There are dinosaur names I have never heard before and impressive models.  The whole exhibit was a work in progress when Kent and I last visited this park.  They did an impressive job with it.

We nap and hang out during the heat of the afternoon.  We close out the day baking Brian’s bday cake.  He helped!  Yeah, I suppose that’s wrong some how to enlist/conscript the bday baby in this effort but we have fun.

Day One at Big Bend

We awake to the orange glow of sunrise through a lingering haze. It is thinner than last evening so we are hopeful that it will clear through the day. We head out toward Boquillas Canyon. Visitor Centers are closed, replaced by small outdoor displays and token gift shop. Thank you, covid-19. We walk the nature trails at Panther Junction and Dugout Wells as we make our way to Boquillas Canyon where the Rio Grande has cut its way through the limestone and winds its way between 1300 foot high cliffs. From miles away, the river is not quite visible but we can trace the bright green ribbon of vegetation that thrives near it. We check out the overlook then take on the trail that runs into the river canyon. The trail is strewn with knick-knacks made of beads and wire, walking sticks and even clothing all laid out by residents of Boquillas Mexico, a tiny village just on the opposite river shore. Covid has closed the crossing for most of this year taking away their normal tourist income. We encounter probably a dozen locals here on the US shore, many more than in previous visits, displaying and hawking their creations. There is some spectacular bead work, the scorpions are my favorite, but resist the temptation to buy and move on toward the river. The cliffs tower above us and views are beautiful as the sky clears. A rather unwanted side effect is much higher temperature than we anticipated based on the forecast and the sun is blazing down. We chill for an hour or so in the shade along the river, I even stick my toes in the water. It is cloudy from lots of fine silt but cool and refreshing.
Our hike back out of the canyon is slow with lots of stops to cool and hydrate. It is nearly more than the group can handle. We will not make this mistake again. Next day out on trails we will start earlier, dress cooler, and keep the walk 2 miles max. Now, we are home relaxing in the shade with a cool breeze at our backs and all is well. Grilled chicken and some pretty tasty broccoli salad make for a great refueling. I think that everyone will sleep well tonight.

Some time with our Texas kids

It is Thanksgiving break in Texas so the four of us; Brian, Johnna, Kent and I pack up and head for Big Bend National Park. We have a week and don’t want to waste a minute so we make the 550 mile trip straight through, 10 ½ hours from the kids’ door in Houston to our home for the week, Stillwell RV Park just 8 miles north of the National Park entrance. 6AM makes for an early start made a bit more tolerable by home-made kolaches curtesy one of Johnna’s buddies, delicious. Traffic is manageable and road construction blessedly light so the trip goes smoothly. A wind is kicking up and sandblasting everyone and everything as we set up camp. It is hazy and a bit grey spoiling long desert vistas. We hope for better weather tomorrow. Dinner is brats browned in a black iron skillet rather than grilled but they are still very tasty. We settle in and make our first pass at planning the week then all head to bed readying for our first day in the park. Kent’s phone is the only one that even sees the camp wifi, it is a bit less than promised. Looks like keeping touch with the outside world will happen only as we pass by visitor centers as we are out exploring.

Riverwalk plus

The Truckee River is what first drew people to this area and modern-day Reno is trying hard to continue to capitalize on its appeal.  The River walk is a combination of city sidewalk and winding bike path that follows the river bank.  We stroll about 1 ½ miles through neighborhoods dotted with small green spaces then a stretch lined with restaurants and larger city parks.  Public art is scattered throughout.  Rhino Man, an enormous abstract flower arrangement, and a whale (it lights up at night).  They have created a short whitewater section for kayakers to play where the river splits around an island park.  There are trout in the river, or so they say.  Several fishermen are waist deep is the snow melt swollen river trying to bring one in. 

We grab lunch at Smee’s along the river.  Their specialty is Alaskan Cod.  Both the fish and chips and clam chowder are a hit.     

Reno lays claim to Burning Man, the mega gathering that happens every August out in the Black Rock Desert some 100 miles from here.  Art Parks scattered around town contain a number of the works first created out there.  We have to visit a few.

I spy a coffee shop as we stroll back toward the car and decide to check it out.  There is more, a gourmet chocolate shop and an ice cream parlor called Rolled Mountain Creamery.  Intriguing. I couldn’t resist.  I choose lemon raspberry and the show begins.  Milk/cream is measured into about a cup jar and natural lemon extract added, shake.  A scoop of berries goes onto a 24” diameter freezing tray-thingy.  Out come two wide scrappers artistically wielded to move the quickly freezing treat into creamy goodness.  More fruit is added, it is all smoothed into a thin layer then the final step, it is rolled into four tight little rolls which are stood in the serving bowl.  It does not look at all like ice cream…ok by me, it tastes delicious.  Tart lemon and bright raspberry flavor with a smooth yet icy texture.  Go there if you get the chance.       

The forecast rain is holding off and part of the plan all day has been to check out the Food Truck Friday at Idlewild Park.  It is a weekly summer gathering of some 35 trucks with a huge range of fare including beer and wine and the bright green Mr. Margarita truck.  The most fun food truck name, Codfather, serving many things from the ocean.  Lots of BBQ, tacos, dogs and burgers, Thai, Indian, Italian…just about anything you can think of. 

 

We have a hard time deciding but settle on a Thai spicy rice bowl and lamb gyro plus dessert from Still Rolling…a twist on the eggroll, they say.  I wouldn’t really call it an eggroll but the deep fried tiramisu with ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream and chocolate covered coffee beans is fantastic.

Weather is closing in and we head on home as the entertainment is just starting and the crowd is still flooding in.  It looks like it is a pretty popular Friday evening event. 

A bit of birding

First, a quick stop in Fallon for a cup of coffee and a couple fantastic cinnamon rolls, one plain iced the other orange cranberry.  We munch on them as we gaze across the first pools in the refuge.  What is not to like about that? 

Stillwater NWR is a collection of marsh lands and seasonal pools that are a migratory bird oasis in the high desert.  It is not peak season now for birding but we see enough to be interesting.  The graceful: black necked stilts, avocets, western grebes, a swan.   The amorous but clown-like ruddy ducks.  Richly colored cinnamon teal.  Bright, cheerful sounding meadowlarks.  A cautious and watchful coyote. 

Fernley NV

Desert Rose is a nice little RV park along US-50 but Fernley is a pretty quiet little town.  Their wildlife management area is mostly a giant mudflat this time of year so birding is not so great.  The only near excitement was that Betsy (you know, our garmin) tried to send us cross country into the management area.  No way, you would be surprised how slimy desert soil can get when it is periodically flooded.  Ick.  We chose another route that involved at least graded gravel road. 

A lot of sculptures must come out of Burning Man.  Fernley has a couple in their Main Street Art Park.  I like the turtle best but the bottle cap flower/tower is pretty cool too.

Toward Reno

Weather is still unsettled in this part of the country so we are treated to dramatic looking skies for much of the trip.  Across the valley and along mountain ridges to either side bright billowing pillow-like clouds erupt above dark menacing storm fronts where rain streaks toward the ground.  It mists then pours then clears.  There is a burst of brilliant sunlight then it all closes in again.  Wind buffets the motorhome particularly fierce as we cross passes or the widest open spaces.  It is a bit hard on the driver but pretty spectacular for me.     

Wild burros are along this stretch of US-95 too.  We come to Hawthorne NV home of the largest arms depot in the world.  Row after row of earthen bunkers march across the scrub brush desert.  Impressive…a bit frightening to imagine a time when one might “need” all this fire power.  The road takes a very unexpected turn as we climb cliff-side along Walter Lake.  A very curling section of 95 is carved into the jagged bare rock face along the west shore.  They warn of big horn sheep crossing.  I keep out a sharp eye but see none.  It is all beautiful in its own desert kind

Idled but still fascinating

From US 95 a 640-foot concrete tower can be seen for miles across Big Smokey Valley.  A ring of heliostats (computer controlled solar collector mirrors) nearly two miles across encircles the tower to beam solar energy to the receiver at the top of the tower.  Here is where the Crescent Dunes Solar Reserve gets really different; concentrated energy heats molten salt to 1000F+ which is stored so that the energy can be used later to generate electricity at night.  This is the first utility scale solar thermal storage installation in the country.  It is amazing to see…still plagued by operating problems-it is down for maintenance today…but interesting to get a look at the science that folks are attempting to apply to overcome the natural limitations of solar power generation.     

Looking the other way in the valley at the snowy Sierra Mountains

Silver – it put Tonopah on the map

Tonopah Historic Mining Park encompasses a number of the early mines that were responsible for the boom of Tonopah.  We check out the museum and the History of Tonopah film…we will have to do the site walkthrough another time.  It is 45F and the wind is howling.

Did you know… US95 Reno to Vegas is home of Phase I of the Nevada Electric Highway Initiative?   We noticed many Tesla charging stations as we drove this way.  The docent at the historical park filled us in: it is the result of that initiative.  Tesla funded them all along US95.

Related did you know…the only lithium “mine” in the US is here in this valley.  It is actually “mined” by evaporating naturally occurring lithium laden brine that is found under these ancient sea beds.  Who knew?