Day 2 @ Lassen Volcanic NP

We start with a guided bird walk.  The path is around the very same lake we strolled yesterday but with a bit of help we spy three new birds: Hermit warbler, White Headed Woodpecker, and a MacGillivray’s Warbler, plus we see a total of three bufflehead families.  An eagle made another showing but not so regal this time.  He was being chased off by a lone, tiny (but obviously brazen) black bird.  Kent got some nice reflection pics. 

Crags Lake

It is still early so we take off on the Chaos Crags Trail.  We start along a creek winding through pine forest climbing ever higher.  We pass by boulders scattered among the trees left behind by retreating glaciers or spewed forth from thundering volcanoes.  This is rugged territory still scared by the long-ago eruptions.  Our destination is Crags Lake perched among the volcanic rubble at about 7000 feet.  The pine scented air is cool and the sun blazes down in the forest meadows.  It is a perfect day for a walk. 

We break out into the open with views of the crags and rocky slopes and the tree encircled, emerald green lake nestled in a low spot before us.  Lovely.

The unique terrain is the highlight of the walk but some wildlife makes a showing.  We spot a deer and a handful of the usual wood warblers plus the entertaining, noisy Clark’ s Nutcracker.        

Snow! it is not all bad

The route through Lassen Volcanic National Park just opened last weekend, June 22.  This area of the Cascades got 133% of the normal annual snowfall and Spring is arriving late.  The bummer part: probably 2/3 of the trails are still snow covered and impassable without special gear; which we do not have.

The upside: scenery is wonderful.

In sunny forest meadows there are bursts of color as wildflowers erupt along the edge of the retreating snowpack.  Brilliant white patches of snow provide accents in the rugged terrain of volcanic rock and a blanket of rich green pines making the ordinarily magnificent even more awe inspiring. 

A stroll around Manzanita Lake leads us through dense forest where the quiet is interrupted only by the chatter of birds overhead, along a babbling creek, and beside the crystal-clear waters where mother ducks and grebes and ever vigilant coots call out in alarm to warn of our presence.  Black tail mule deer keep a watchful eye on us as we pass.  We spot the regal silhouette of a Bald Eagle.  There are tiny bufflehead ducks – we learn later that they are one or two days old – huddled in a pile on a boulder out in the lake.  Mom is patrolling nearby.  

The drive through Lassen brings spectacular mountain views, smelly sulfur geothermal features, a snow-covered meadow cut through by a meandering stream, glacier blue waters of the thawing alpine lakes, and thundering creeks swollen with snowmelt. 

This is a pretty good place to slide back into the great outdoors.   

Travel Day – On the road again

Good-bye Reno.  We make it safely back to the rig and are heading out adventuring.  When we arrived at Lassen Volcanic NP we found a failed tire on the trailer.  It was fine at a rest area not far back up the road and had not totally shredded so it had not been flat too long.  A quick change to the spare and we are ready to hit the road again and eventually do some tire shopping.

Navajo Lake (Reservoir)

The Piedra and San Juan Rivers flow through arid terrain and carry lots of silt into the lake leaving it perpetually sort of murky…not terribly inviting to swim in…though the locals don’t seem to mind. We have been out on the lake three different days cruising the shores wildlife watching, zipping around just to feel the wind in our hair and enjoying the scenery.  Locals report that the fishing is not so great so we have opted for just relaxing.  Not a bad place for that.  Tomorrow we head on to Albuquerque.

Boss Hoggs for dinner

We came off the trail early enough to hit the early bird specials and the place was over run by “old people”. It seems to be the place for local seniors.  We didn’t feel particularly old but we didn’t pass up the opportunity for $1.99 margaritas and the steak specials.  The apple pie ala mode topped it off nicely.

Waterfalls!

The Weminuche Wilderness lies within the San Juan National Forest just north of Pagosa Springs.  We chose Fourmile Trail that begins at 9200ft elevation and at 3 miles into the back country provides a great view of two 300 foot highfourmile-ribbon-falls-comp_5696 fourmilemainfallscomp_5719 waterfalls.  It is a beautiful walk into a heavily wooded box canyon.  Foot traffic is light today and we have the place to ourselves the whole way out; peaceful.  There has been enough rain that the falls are running nicely; fantastic.

Pueblos on a grand scale

PuebloBonitoDoc_5594The Chaco Culture National Historic Park strives to preserve and showcase magnificent structures of the Chaco peoples who lived and farmed this region.  Great Houses and Kivas are scattered across the canyon with a consistent layout and relationship that provide clues pointing to a complex social structure of the inhabitants.  Structures seem to be oriented to align with celestial events and movements.  What was the tie with the heavens?  Turquoise, shells, McCaw feathers and bones, copper bells all seem to indicate a wide trade network.  It is an impressive place and the stories they tell quite compelling.  I wonder though if time will reveal new information and if one were to return in 50 or 100 years the story told by archeologists and anthropologists might be very different.

The park is worth the visit but it is terrible to get to. It is 100+ miles from anywhere and the roads that carry you there are rough, rocky, potholed, wash boarded, and when wet, impassably slimy clay.  The last 13 miles take over an hour of dodging and weaving.  Thankfully there is very little traffic to contend with since the only thing back there are cows, sheep, horses and the park.

 

Check out this trail.PuebloAltoTrailComp_5600 It is steps, sort of, up a crack in the cliff and it leads to a great overview of many of the pueblos.

More Pueblos

Another ancient dwelling stop, Chimney RockComp_5549Chimney Rock National Monument.  The naturally occurring rock formations are impressive and it is certainly easy to see why they have been landmarks for centuries.  Scattered among the formations and half buried in sage brush and pine forest are hundreds of ancient dwellings. Atop the rocky outcropping is a Chacoan Great House.  We have seen a few of them now so are probably not as easily impressed but this sure is an impressive setting with spectacular views.  Access is by escorted, paid tour only.  The $12 each seemed a bit high but I’d say it is a worthwhile stop.