Last place for bighorn

We hiked the high cliff edges of Thousand Creek Gorge. It looks like good sheep habitat but not today. Still a great walk.
An exotic looking game bird, the Chukar,

Chukar

Chukar

makes a noisy, flashy showing. They move from highest rock to highest rock along the trail then along the cliffs. We could hear their call nearly everywhere we went.
We enjoy the cliff top view. Swallows swoop close enough that we can hear the wind whistle past their wings. A kestrel hovers nearby and complains that we are interfering with her favorite roost. The grating alarm of Prairie Falcons rises from the canyon as an eagle comes to rest on the rim. His stay is short as they mob him relentlessly until he abruptly abandons his post and swoops out of our sight.
The creek meanders along the canyon floor shrouded in green vegetation. No doubt there are many other local residents hiding just out of our sight.

Two out of three

Our first day out on the refuge and we saw pronghorn and one grouse. A group of mule deer made a showing too but no big horn sheep even with a 6 mile hike to a sheep viewing “hot spot”.  We have one more place to try tomorrow.

Like nearly all public land out here, they have wild horse and burros. A wild horse posed as he enjoyed a cool drink but no wild burros.  We didn’t even hear them.

A bit out of place, three white pelicans hung out at a little desert lake where a Bald eagle played “big fish in a little pond” trying to run off ravens and vultures.

It felt like we were the only ones here. We did not meet a single car on 80 miles of refuge road except a convoy of official white refuge trucks on the mission to check out something at one of the historic ranch sites.

250 miles to the Northwest corner of Nevada

Mile after mile of sagebrush prairie covering wide valleys; the road slices through it straight as an arrow for as far as we can see…exciting driving!   Exciting riding too!

It is perfect pronghorn country and we spot a few small bands.

We are heading to Sheldon NWR and the Virgin Valley Campground. It has a warm spring pool.

Besides the pool, the main attractions are pronghorn, big horn sheep, and grouse.

I have seen the elephant!

The vast Great Basin with it seemingly endless pattern of desert valleys divided by rocky ranges, and its seemingly endless foot sucking salt flats presented emigrants with a view and experience that they just couldn’t explain to others back home. Indescribable gave birth to a saying, “Seeing the elephant” as in, another sight one is hard pressed to describe to someone who has never see it.  I think driving across this can get tedious sometimes!  I can not even imagine walking across it.

 

North Central Nevada region of the BLM has built the California Trail Interpretive Center in Elko.  We have visited a few similar museums but each has a bit different way of presenting the story of the emigrant flood to the West….these guys did a nice job

Foiled again by snow above 8500 feet

Heading north up Great Basin Highway (US93) a rugged snow capped mountain range comes into view, the Ruby Mountains.  They jut up majestically from the sage brush covered desert floor.  Our destination is Elko Nevada at the foot of the Rubies with a special eye for the Lamoille Canyon just above town.  The scenic drive glides up through the rugged, glacier formed canyon, past hanging side canyons and through thick aspen groves.

We rounded a corner to findSnowmobilesComp_2545 snowmobiles parked in a high icy drift stretching all the way across the pavement. End of the road for us.  No Ruby Dome or mountaintop trails today.

Lower elevation trails lead to many beaver ponds.BeaverDamComp_2566 The aspen groves provide about perfect dam building materials and food.  Stumps stand 4 or 5 feet tall where they were gnawed off at snow line when they were retrieved to supplement mid winter food stores.  Ambitious engineers those furry fellows.  There work greatly changed the flow of the mountain streams.

Ghost Riders

The engine hisses and sets loose a column of grey smoke laced with ash and embers. Bright white steam rises into the air.  The whistle sounds and we start out of the station.  Engine 40,EngineerLynnComp_2444 a wonderfully restored 1907 steam engine of the Nevada Northern Railway leaves Ely, NV for a casual ride into the country.  We pass the public stables where town folks board their horses, lots of them.  From a rise along the edge of town the route gives us view of historic buildings; schools, town hall, miners cabins, taverns and gambling halls.  Beyond town we pass remnants of 100+ years of mining and the railroad that supported it.  Stone houses built into the mountainside at the site of small claims.  Tipples used to load ore onto the trains.  Abandoned deep mine ore cars.  Open pit mine scrap piles hundreds of feet high.  The train was an integral part of the lives and livelihoods of this little town and a ride on it gives one a feel for what those lives may have been like.

We start back toward the station. Wait, who is that?  A band of masked men, the Ghost Riders, come along side the train.  BanditComp_2480Brandishing guns, they force the engine to a stop and board the train.  They walk among us as if in search for someone.  A woman is singled out, cuffed and removed from the train.  RansomVictimComp_2486The riders demand a ransom for her return.  Thankfully her family was able to meet the demands.  Once they were paid we were free to go.  The last thing we witness is a gunfight among the riders in dispute over who among them would get the ransom money.

Engine 40 returns us to the station with no further incident.

 

The Nevada Northern Railroad in Ely Nevada is a National Historic Landmark.  The rail yard and rail line along with much of the rolling stock of the railroad is being carefully restored and preserved.   We rode as passengers on a 90 minute narrated ride through the town, countryside and through history.  We could have been engineer for a day and actually driven a steam engine, shadowed the Conductor/brakeman/switchman for the trip, or spent the night in a caboose turned cabin or a railworker’s bunkhouse.  It is all very well done and a great time.

 

We took the walking tour of the engine repair shop and got a look at a lot of huge old belt driven equipment and another of the engines that is in for routine maintenance. Pretty amazing.  They have a huge steam crane that they actually use and an enormous steam driven rotary snow blower that they hope to one day get back into operation.  It is quite the engineering marvel just sitting here.

 

Oh, meet Dirtbag,DirtbagComp_2501 the friendliest of the repair shop cats!

 

Our guide for the walking portion is really into his trains and took us for a look at the rest of their rolling stock that is awaiting or midway through restoration. The building is chocked fun of cabooses, passenger cars, more engines with their tenders, and even a rolling post office.

 

You will probably never find yourself here by accident. It is in the middle of nowhere.  But it’s worth it to make this trip on US 93.

Nevada Fence Art

Someone along the entrance road to Great Basin has a pension for public art.

We saw two iterations of this lawn art installation.

Rudolf Winter Comp_2170

Winter

Winter

 

 

 

 

Spring

Spring

Spring

 

 

 

 

 

Then there was the actual fence art.Slow TransitComp_2406 Pond GraveComp_2410 GateWomanComp_2403 FenceArt ManComp_2408 ChristmasTreeComp_2405

Shields and bulbous stalactites

ParachuteComp_2389Lehman Caves has some really cool and rare formations.  Some seem to have defied gravity.  We ducked and twisted our way through lots of narrow passages interconnecting some fantastic rooms.   The sights definitely justified the slightly creepy feeling in the tight spaces.

More on Lower Lehman Campground

Lehman Creek defines the back edge of our site. The creek runs a bit fuller every day as the mountain top snow pack continues to melt.  Chickadees noisily snack on the early buds of the thick birch stand.  Robins and Cedar Waxwings compete for the best high perches in the pines.  A deer, still wearing much of its scruffy winter coat, makes a quick try for some of the tender new grass in camp.  A snake about a foot long made it half way across the road….not one of the rare Great Basin Rattlesnakes still sorry to see he didn’t make it.  We hear the turkeys every day and have fun trying to spot them in the dense vegetation.

Wheeler Peak is still snowed in so we won’t get the chance to check out the ancient Bristle Cone Pines that grow up there.  That is for another trip.

Marmots and turkeys and snow, oh my!

Our hike for today, Baker Creek trail. The dirt road is pretty smooth but we roll along at the 25 mph speed limit keeping and eye out for critters.  What is that sign?  Marmot crossing!  MarmotSigComp_2295Really?   Sure enough as if on cue they appear both on the road and atop rocks near by.  MarmotComp_2195They are cute and very social so it is fun to watch them interact.  One fellow absolutely would not leave the middle of the road.  When we got close we saw that he was digging little depressions and eating something he found in the roadbed material.  That’s a pretty dangerous craving he was having.

We move on.

Only one car at the trail head; this promises to be a pretty quiet walk. Notes in the trail sign-in log warn of numerous hikes “turned back by snow”.  Hmmm.  We will see.  Baker Creek gurgles and tumbles along side the trail.  We climb evenly but not too steeply.  Before long we loose the jackets and hike in shirt sleeves and shorts.  Very nice.  A few switchbacks and we find ourselves in a near silent mountain meadow.  It is amazing how the pines block all sound of the creek.  Birds sing. Turkeys gobble somewhere near by.  With a bit of looking we spot them.  Pretty odd looking fellows really.  Wildflowers abound on the sunny slopes.  We encounter our first snow.  It isn’t deep, no biggy.  We walk on through the scent of clear mountain air sometimes filled with the thick smell of pine.  Snow-chilled breezes slide down the mountain and swirl past us.  There is more snow now.  Sometimes more than boot high but we are doing ok.  We are back along the snow melt swollenBakerCreekComp_2259 creek and it is bigger now since we have moved above where it forks on its journey downhill.  Sunlight dances of the water as it tumbles over boulders and fallen trees.  Snow drifts line the banks.  It is beautiful.

More snow. Too much?  Not yet.  Keep going a bit more.  Fortunately there have been hikers through here before us so we can follow their tracks else route finding would be very difficult.  Feet are getting wetter.  Let’s try to make it to the tree line so we can catch the wider view.

Nope. This is it.DeepSnowComp_2254  I sank so deep in snow that it filled the cuff of my shorts.  Time to head back.

 

It is only noon so “just for fun” we take the fork to the right to try an alternative route back to the trailhead. Reports were that it is snow covered but it looks passable. BridgeComp_2256 First a snow covered foot bridge.  Ok.  Some snow covered trail steps, a bit un-nerving.  Oh, oh, no more tracks to follow and none of these trails have any markings visible with snow cover.  We are turned back again.  We retrace our steps to the trail junction and head on back the way we came. Turkeys are still around.  It is warmer now and snow on the trail is mushy and muddy.

 

Our feet are wet and we weren’t able to take the paths we planned but it was a wonderful hike in a beautiful place. Another fine day of exploring.