Three great ranger recommendations

First, quarter turn bridge; an actual curved bridge over McDonald creek just at the confluence with the Middle Fork of the Flathead River.  The structure is amazing and the location completely quiet, just one fisherman a bit down river.  I notice he’s on his phone, we have four bars.  This will likely be one of the prettiest cell phone booths we’ll visit this trip!  We move on to recommendation 2, Rocky Point Trail just above Fishing Creek Campground.  We twist through the heavily wooded NW shoreline of Lake McDonald and pop out on the namesake rocky point above the lakeshore.  It is a bit overcast but the view is still lovely.  The return hike brings us to just over 4 miles for the day so far.  One more stop, The Polebridge Mercantile, highly recommended for its bakery.  We bump our way out Outside North Fork Road about 7 miles paved and 10 miles minimally maintained gravel.  A collection of small businesses includes outfitters and guides and our targeted stop, The Mercantile.  We get a bonus, the Northern Lights Saloon, they have cocktails and local drafts plus an interesting lunch menu.  We know we’ll be back but check out the bakery first where we emerge with a huckleberry rollie, fruit fritter, and a poppyseed and chocolate rollie.  Then it’s back to the Saloon and lunch: Me-Glacier Lily cocktail of gin, elderberry and lemon.  Carol-Montana Mama featuring huckleberry and vodka.  The drinks are followed by shared plates of smoked elk quesadilla and a smoked elk huckleberry BBQ sandwich.  I just have to swing back by the mercantile for a huckleberry macaroon.  Ok, heading home.  Bumpity bump. What a great day so far.

Back at camp we check out the evening ranger program which chronicles the role and impact of people in the Glacier Park area through the years.  Interesting and nicely presented.  A cheeseboard and wine close out the day.

Our sisters’ outing begins

Carol has a site at Apgar Campground on the west side of the park.  We load up my stuff in her little RV and head out leaving Kent to his own peace and quiet for the week. We head south on 89 then a curly scenic section of MT 49 twisting its way above Two Medicine Lake as we make our way to East Glacier.  We make a quick stop to check out Glacier Inn, the departure point for our Red Bus tour in a couple days.  Our journey along 2 south of the park includes a stop at Goat Lick (sadly no goats present today).  We get trail and attraction recommendations from the ranger’s desk at Apgar Visitor Center and safely settle in at A44 Apgar campground.  It is a quiet site (no traffic noise, no close neighbors, no cell service) with a forested view that over the course of the week brings us deer nearly daily.    Ruebens make for a delicious late lunch and chips and dip for supper…..off to a great start.

Many Glacier for a boat ride, we hope

Carol, Kent and I bump our way back the dusty, potholed, wash-boarded park entrance road into Many Glacier.  The road grader is parked at the start of the road.  They need to get it moving…We make it to Many Glacier Hotel, a beautiful historic log structure.  Our main goals are to check out the impressive architecture and its views plus waitlist for the scenic boat ride that originates here.  The boats have been sold out for months but they are a fun way to get a bit further back into the park without a lot of walking.  Scope out the building, check.  Waitlist the boat rides, check.  Rats, we just miss the waitlist call for the earliest ride.  No problem, it gives us time for lunch.  We go for cocktails first then lunch.  Carol – elk brat.  Kent- a BLTA.  Me – bison burger.  We are all happy with our choices.  There is a bit more hanging around but we make the cut for the 1:30 boat ride.  All aboard first Chief Two Guns on Swiftcurrent Lake, followed by a rocky underfoot, steep in sections ¼ mile trail, then the Morning Eagle on Lake Josephine.  The ride is worth the wait and we manage a couple mile hike once we are out there.

Woohoo, bear sighting day

Kent and I are up and on our way by 6:30 putting us at the Grinnell Glacier trailhead by just before 7:30. Yikes, it is cold, 37F and the sun isn’t high enough to warm this part of the valley.  We huddle in the warm truck for a few then put on everything we brought, fleece, windbreakers, wool hats, and gloves then head to the trailhead.

We take the trail along the north shore of first Swiftcurrent then Josephine Lake.  We spot moose tracks in the soft flat soil but no sign of the fellow(s) who might have made those tracks.  We have the trail pretty much to ourselves as we cross a boardwalk at the head of Josephene Lake then up a steep rock scramble to intersect with the Glacier Trail.   It is pretty much all uphill now to the end of the hike.  We hear a jumble of voices behind us.  No more wooded serenity, the first boatload of hikers just disembarked below us and are quickly overtaking us on the trail.  We’ll have lots of company on the trail for the rest of the day.  We are rapidly peeling off layers of clothing as we climb.  It is a fairly steep, long climb but we are urged on by the view of the glacier hanging high in the far end of the valley in front of us.  Its meltwater feeds first waterfalls then flows into blue-green Grinnell Lake below it.  We stop to check out the view and spot for mountain goals on the slopes.  Check it out. Mountain goat pic.  We get to a spectacular viewing spot and declare it the end of our climb.  The trail is very busy now with both overtaking and oncoming traffic, not so much fun.

Down is physically easier and traffic lessens once we get down off the switchbacks.  We get a bonus sighting, a large black bear along the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake.  It is a pretty quick look.  He has absolutely no interest in us.  Must be focusing on berry hunting.

We get back to the trailhead at the lodge just in time to see a band of big horn sheep ewes and their young.  Kent gets one of the most captured big horn pictures, butts!

Wild life sightings continue as we head out of the park.  First there is a fleeting look at a black bear in the trees off the left side of the entrance road. While we are gawking at it, a bear jam gathers.  Not for the black bear, for a big grizzly bear swimming toward us across Lake Sherburne.  She/he rises up out of the water as they come ashore then alternates snuffling about and trotting toward us.  By then a ranger has arrived to wrangle the watchers and clear a path should the bear keep coming our way.  It does, and he hustles all the cars and people out of the way.  We watch out of our rearview mirror as she moves on toward the road.  It is a fantastic grizzly sighting.  Quite close and within scurry distance of the truck!

We raid Carol’s kitchen, our first of several delicious cheeseboards.  Yum

For Kent and me the afternoon is all about resting up. Carol joins us to end the day with a tasty plate of nachos.

Slept in!

It was after 1AM when we got to bed last night and fog was thick when we woke.  Nope, not getting up.  We slept in and had a lazy breakfast, actually a pretty much lazy whole day.  Carol was running ahead of her scheduled Sunday arrival so she came in a day early.  From here at Chewing Blackbones we have easy access to the Many Glacier unit of Glacier National Park. Kent and I have a hike set for tomorrow (Kent scored an entry pass so we can go in just early not O dark thirty/before 6AM).  We are all going in on Sunday to check it out.

St Mary side of Glacier NP

It is still high season so park entry between 6AM and 3 PM is by daily permit only.  We can’t get one so, we will spend the middle of the day outside the permit gate in the St. Mary’s area.   We start with Beaver Pond loop trail.  There are lots of grizzly bear warning signs at the trailhead.  Kent is dutifully carrying bear spray but they all must to be off exploring other areas today.  We do see a mule deer and Ruddy duck.  It is a nice wooded walk with lake and mountain views.  Clouds are building as we head back to camp.  We make a quick stop enroute at Two Sister’s Café: huckleberry pie and a cinnamon roll.  We enjoy them both but not sure if the huckleberry pie/any huckleberry pie is worth $9.95 a slice!  Of course, I didn’t have to compete with the bears to pick those huckleberries.

It is Star Party night at Logan Pass

We picked up a ticket yesterday but have our doubts, it clouded over mid-day and has rained off and on all afternoon.  We make the call.  We are heading up to the pass and hoping for clear skies by 10PM.

It is still pretty grey when we get there but its only 7PM and we are off on a hike to Hidden Lake overlook.  Weather is just fine for this.  Wow, there are a lot of steps on this boardwalk that takes us up and across a wide rolling alpine meadow.  We have beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and hope to make it to the lake for sunset.  The boardwalk gives way to a more gently sloping path and ultimately to a perfect viewing platform high above Hidden Lake.  The shadows of lingering clouds move across the lake and mountain slopes that encircle it.  We wait, us and another 10+ photographers, for what all hope is a spectacular sunset.  Turns out it is just beautiful, not spectacular, still well worth the climb up here.  Bonus, on the way back down the trail we spot a mountain goat. He isn’t at all shy.  Kent gets a pile of pictures.

We make it back to the trailhead just above the visitor center (the star party is in that completely unlighted parking lot) and spend a few in the truck warming up.  It is 51F and we want to be well warmed before the program starts.  Soon it is 10PM and a crowd of somewhere around 200, gathers.  First there is a brief Glacier Dark Sky Park commercial then a wonderfully run Dark Sky Program.  Four astronomers split the group into smaller groups to walk us through constellations, the spectacular milky way and each their own personal take on why night sky is significant to humans and wildlife.  My spokesperson is a young astrophysicist turn geologist and astronomer turned park ranger.   Her’s is a fun, informative talk.  Next, there are seven telescopes set up each trained on a different object in the sky.  Lines are pretty long as we wait for our look at a binary star, one red one blue, in constellation Cygna.  We then opt to find a quiet dark spot to just soak in the big picture of what has turned out to be one of the most magnificent night skies we have experienced.   We duck into the truck to warm up again, it is in the 40s heading for 37 by the time we head back down the mountain.  Very well done, Glacier National Park/Waterton-Glacier International Night Sky Park.

North to Glacier

US 287 through the Dearborn River valley cuts right through the Montana bread basket.  On both sides we pass wide, rolling wheat fields stretching as far as the eye can see.  Then there are grasslands, equally as immense splashing up against the ranges of the continental divide on the west.  Creeks and streams meander through, creating ribbons of green where cottonwood trees and willow flats thrive.  A band of 30 or so pronghorn are hanging out.  There is more wheat.  Soon we see the ranges of Glacier Park; Livingston and Lewis and Clark sub ranges of the Rockies.  Within the park are 150+ peaks over 8000 ft.  We are in the Blackfoot Reservation now where cattle share space with a large herd of bison.

We make a quick stop at the St Mary’s visitor center for hiking info and maps then move on to settle in at Chewing Black Bones Campground in Babb.  Pretty simple place but just fine for our basecamp for exploring Glacier.

Toward Helena

From West Yellowstone we wind along the more remote, less visited western border of the park.  We start out through rolling grasslands then enter the Gallatin River Canyon.  Towering cliffs rise on either side for miles before opening up into another wide valley where wheat and potato fields share a patchwork with range land.  We come to the headwaters of the Missouri and the chain of lakes created at the many dams along this stretch of the river.  Home for the next night or two is at White Sandy Campground on the shore of one of those lakes, Hauton Lake.  Maybe a half dozen sites are occupied and it is a very quiet spot, except for the occasional military flyby and a fair number of gulls!

The Great Northern Carousel

Ok, yes, I have ridden this one before.  Kent reminded me after verifying this in our 2014 blog.  I never said I would limit myself to one visit on any carousel!  Today I ride the bear, the bison and big horn sheep are tempting too.  No luck grabbing a brass ring.  Still, it is great fun.  I can’t leave without just one scoop of butter pecan ice cream!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is lunch time and I have seen lots of recommendations for Old Salt Outpost.  It is not just any burger place, they serve local Montana beef.  Bit of trivia, did you know that Montanans eat only 2% Montana beef?  These folks are working to change that.  Our burgers are yummy.

We finish our errands and chores (check out this cute laundromat-those are words I rarely use in the same sentence) then head back to camp to kick back.

An early start

Traffic in Yellowstone around thermal features was pretty awful when we passed through yesterday and the weather forecast for today is rain mid-morning through afternoon and evening.  If we are going to see even the highlights, we have to get an early start.   Up at 5:45 and a quick cup of coffee gets us out the door by 6:15 and puts us at Old Faithful by 7:30. Enroute we spot elk including a cow and two small calves down for a drink.  We check out the posted next-eruption time.  Perfect, just enough time for a leisurely breakfast at the Inn.  Mike and Tracy’s pictures reminded us how cool the old structure is and we feel the need to check it out.  It’s a buffet with food a bit better than average but the cozy setting makes up for anything it lacks.  We are back out in plenty of time for Old Faithful’s show.  Even against a cloud filled sky it is spectacular.  The weather holds off long enough to walk the entire upper basin boardwalk including catching a Daisy geyser eruption.  We make it back to the geyser hill just in time to see Old Faithful a second time.  It looks more powerful from the view on the top boardwalk!  It is misting and still in the 50’s.  We check out the gift shop.  I must have another Yellowstone medallion, a bison this time.  Plans are to check out Grand Prismatic and the Norris Basin thermal area if the crowds aren’t awful.  No such luck, traffic is spilling out of the parking lots as folks are vulturing for spots.  We head home with a couple detours; The Firehole River Canyon Drive, it is spectacular, then a loop along the Madison River, lovely but no elk or bears on that section of the grassy banks today.  The elk from this morning are still out along 20.  It is definitely a favorite spot for them. We are back in camp sipping hot tea to warm up in the rainy and chilly weather.  It’s a great chance to catch up on the blog and naps!