A day on the Arkansas River

Yep, we are doing it.  We are setting off on a full day river ride with Noah’s Ark Whitewater Rafting out of Buena Vista.  They took us out and brought us back safely last time, about 6 years ago.  We are suited up:  Life jacket-check.  Helmet-check. Sunscreen-check.  We climb into the back of the raft while our boatmates Jason and LJ take places up front and our guide, Kayla the center position with the oars.  Flow rate is moderate they say, about 1200 cfs.  Reports are the trip will include some class III and a couple class IV but starts out nice and easy with a little bouncing and a few splashes to get us set for the bigger stuff.  We are just getting started when we ride high on a rock in the middle of the river and there we are, stuck.  Really stuck!  Kent and I crawl up to the front, boy was that not a graceful maneuver, trying to transfer weight and get us moving.  We bounce up and down to free us.  We push with paddles.  Ultimately Kayla has to put a foot out and push us off…we twist wildly for a few then settle back into heading downstream.  It ought to be a fun ride.

We enter Browns Canyon with its great riverside views.  We tuck in our toes and hang fast to our paddles as we do our best to follow paddling orders.  Go 1.  Go 2.  Back 2.  Pretty simple, at least until one gets distracted by trying to stay in the boast.   The guys up front get the biggest splashes but Kent and I get the bouncy ride in the back of the boat.  We each land down in the bottom of the boat several times over the course of the trip.  We manage to adhere to the first river rafting rule, “Stay in the boat”.

The sun is hot but the water in the 60s with lots of splashing going on.  Shore lunch is delicious.  The blondies are a particular hit. Not long after lunch stop, we hit the roughest section of the river including Seidel’s Suck Hole….it’s a fun wild ride for us and we make it through without mishap. Not everyone though.  There is a ‘swimmer’ off a raft just behind us and she’s caught in the roiling waters at the base of the rock ledge.  Her head is above water and she’s trying to swim but having trouble getting free.  A loud whistle tweets and all boats move to help.  She pops free of the swirl and is plucked to safety.  It seems long even for those of us not in the water but the whole thing is probably a minute maybe two.  She is a bit shaken but able to carry on.

Just a couple more swirly sections and another grounding on a mid-river rock, less spectacular than the first, then we float out the rest of the trip in relative calm.  There is an uneventful bus ride back to the outfitter base where we drop off gear and bid our adventure companions farewell.  We spot a food truck in the parking lot offering up homemade poptarts.  I find that irresistible and we go for a raspberry one.  It looks very poptart-like and the raspberry filling is actually real raspberries.  It is delicious. We head home.

It has been a great trip.

It’s a record

We move camp just 35 miles today up to Salida and the Colorado Peaks area.  Hardly worth the trouble you’d say but it puts us along the Arkansas River in a beautiful valley with lots of wildlife and classic 14,000-footer views.

I wake up just as it getting light.  I have been watching for a clear morning to see the Sangre de Cristo Mountains show their colors, red at sunrise.  We get a bit of a rosy glow.  Not exactly what I hoped for but it is lovely.

Check out is early and we are on the road by a little past 9.  Check-in at Rocky Top, our next stop, is 2:30 so we looking for a nice stop to spend a few hours.  We settle on a raft take-out area along the Arkansas that is just a wide spot along US 50 but we have a nice river view and we are in the right terrain for big horn sheep.

The big horn don’t disappoint.  One, two ewes and their lambs make their way across the far bank to drink from the river.  Then there is a broken stream of mamas and their young until a band of about 20 drinks, then moves up the riverbank back into the scattered juniper.  Next the rams appear, 6 of them I think, trailing along behind the girls.  This is our first big horn sighting this trip and that’s always exciting.

Rafters come by as well.  It is a quiet section here but there is lots of flow so probably some exciting moments on upstream.  We are undecided as to whether we will be rafting this pass through.  We will have to decide today or likely won’t be able to get a reservation between now and Friday when we move on.

High Mountain Hayfever

Here we go, our first full-blown Bluegrass Festival.  I’ve heard bluegrass groups at various festivals and summer concert series through our travels.  Most recent was while we were in Kingston this summer.  That is when I vowed that we are going to seek out more of this bluegrass/mountain style music and really check it out.  Here we are in Westcliffe, Colorado dry camping in an open field under clear (most of the time) skies soaking up sunshine and bluegrass.

Skip to Sunday, performances are coming to a close.  We went all in.  Across the 3 ½ day festival we spend 24 hours in lawn chairs under a huge tent listening to the likes of Hillbilly Fever, Uncle Shuffelo and this Haint Hollow Hootenanny, Blue Canyon Boys and Southwest Bluegrass All Stars plus lots more.  Many of the groups, and/or their individual members, are well known in this genre and I’m certainly impressed with the picking and strumming everywhere not to mention the amazing washboard playing in the Uncle Shuffelo group!

Kent and I are obviously not qualified to objectively judge what we have been listening to but we have picked out some standouts, in our opinions.  For me it is The Red Mountain Boys.  They are a bit non-traditional I’d say.  They played original music, both lyrics and instrumental which seem to incorporate a fun interplay of all the string parts with breakouts of genre-defining finger-defying picking, especially on the mandolin. My favorite song is Dear John. I get the distinct impression they were all high on their last set…lots of ‘I know something you don’t’ grins exchanged and pretty loose demeanor by all.

I think Kent’s vote would be the group DAYTON; heavily influenced by their Elvis Lookalike banjo player.  He is phenomenal on banjo, guitar, fiddle and mandolin.  The rest of the guys carry their weight.  I agree with Kent, they are probably the most enjoyable traditional bluegrass group.  They brought some original work by their talented songwriters as well.

Under the of heading of unbelievable, the Baker Family, three kids and their mom. They consider themselves Ozark Bluegrass.  That must mean bluegrass on speed.  In their opening set the 19-year-old balanced on the string bass standing on edge while he played it.  I guess he was squeezing ALL the music out of it.

There are food trucks of course, the way many folks do event foods now-a-days.  We have been repeat customers at the tator twist fry-funnel cake truck!

It has been a fun, few days.  We’ll do this or something like it again sometime/somewhere.   If you are looking for a venue to put your toe in the bluegrass water, this Festival in Westcliffe is a great place to do it.  The festival is well run: easy, close camping, free parking for day trippers, reasonable food and water and you can even bring in your own if you want, a beer and wine tent, lots of pleasant volunteers around and attended by many enthusiastic, music loving, well-behaved attendees. On top of that, it is a long running fund raiser for Wet Valley Colorado children’s health and wellness organizations.  Check it out.

Still no bear

It was a cool quiet night and we are up early.  Comanche and Venerable trails leave from camp and head up into NF wilderness.  We have the morning before we head into town so we squeeze in a short hike.  We must be getting a bit more acclimated to altitude; we get winded but don’t have to stop to rest nearly as often.   No bear but a couple new or at least rarely seen by us birds make a showing.  Back at camp we enjoy our great view and bask in the Colorado sun.  Lovely.

Moving on: Alvarado Campground

We are heading into the mountains in search of cooler air.  We make our way to Alvarado Campground in the San Isabel National Forest on the east flank of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains.  It is at 9000 ft elevation and around 75F when we arrive.  Ah, it is lovely. Check out this view from our site.

The camp host stops by as we are settling in.  “Be on the lookout, there has been a black bear in camp the past few nights.”  We are excited at the prospect of seeing it and keep an eye out all afternoon and evening.  We fit in a stroll to check out the rest of the camp.  It is a lovely place.  As for the bear, no luck today.  We will keep an eye out in the morning then its back down the mountain to Westcliffe and the High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass Festival.

Out of the ordinary

It is July 4th.  We are up pretty early on a beautiful bright sunny morning.  It is heading for 95F.  We need to find a holiday-appropriate activity to cool off.  That’s when we decide, yes, we are going to the Fourth of July Wet Parade in Pueblo West.  It is exactly what it sounds like, parade goers and paraders engage in a 1 ½ mile long water battle.  Sounds pretty unmanageable right?  You ought to see the list of rules published to attempt to do so.

We arrive at the wet end of the parade route (the first ½ mile is designated dry – as in no water battle allowed).  Our first thought is to walk to the dry end thinking we don’t want to get dripping wet but get caught up in the spirit and decide to stay along the wet portion of the route.  We are unarmed and a bit older than the rest of the crowd so as long as we don’t get caught up in an active spectator battle wet parade etiquette seems to limit our exposure to light, long-distance volleys. We get just wet enough to be reminded that this is a different sort of celebration.

We settle into a viewing area just a bit back from the road and among family spectators.  The Mayor suspended water restrictions for the event.  Parking regulations have been relaxed allowing locals to pre-park along the parade route 3 DAYS in advance. The place is a bit crazy.  There are tanks of all shapes and sizes and even pickup beds lined with tarps and filled with water.  Pre-parade engagement rules seem to be “any one armed is fair game”.  If they are still dry, they are premium targets.  Spirits are high and groups rove the street coalescing into a flash mob to douse randomly selected sideliners.   It is hot and the sun is blazing.  We gladly accept the occasional overspray.  The parade is actually a bit tamer as float riders (all prepared for the onslaught and most returning fire) are absolutely inundated. No bands.  Only one brave politician.  The honor guard is actually a van with flags out all the just cracked open windows.  It is all as far from patriotic as any 4th celebration I know of; but it is a great way to welcome in summer.

Fireworks, gotta find some.  We settle in at Pueblo West City Civic Park around 8PM.  We know just the place to watch from, a lush picnic lawn we walked through earlier today.  Still an hour or more until dark but locals are already lighting up the sky with some pretty impressive fireworks of their own.  We relax in the cool evening air to enjoy the show.  One, two, three high explosions signal the beginning of the official display.  We don’t even get the first oh or ah out before we hear the hiss of sprinkles, literally right under our blanket, firing off.  We scramble out of reach and take in the rest of the show, standing, to make it easier to stay out of the spray as the rest of the zones come on in turn.   The day ends as unordinary as it began.

Frontier Pathways Byway

Today we are out for a drive through San Isabel National Forest.  The start is near camp in the sage brush plains.  Not too exciting in itself but we do spot prong horn and a Golden Eagle.  Before long we find the rolling foothills then began to climb in earnest into the wet mountains to elevation above 9000 feet.  We started early hoping to see wildlife.  Despite dedicated spotting efforts no mega fauna…coulda shoulda been elk and bear.   Still, it is beautiful.

What an amazing roadside find, a one-man project, Bishop Castle.  It is three stories of stone and iron with flying walkways, stained glass, seemingly endless spiral staircases and a dragon head.  We climb and weave our way through towers and inner rooms.  What fun.  Kent makes his way high into the spherical topworks of the tower.  You could climb around for hours searching for hidden chambers and stairways in this structure.

We stretch our legs on the circle trail around Lake Isabell.  There is lots of fishing happening but according to the folks we talked to not much catching.  Rainbow trout are the target catch.  We cruise through the NF campgrounds and picnic areas all along a creek and nestled in the edges of the thickly wooded valley.  There are a few sites that could accommodate us….someday maybe.

Pueblo City Park has rides!

Pueblo City Park has rides!

I’m most interested in the carousel.  It is #72, county fair style, built in 1911 as the 72nd by Parker Amusement Abilene KS.  The current complement of carved horses isn’t all the originals but they all date to the early 1900s.   I am doubly excited because they even have a working band organ.   Sadly, they only play it evenings so I miss out on my afternoon ride.  Bummers, watching the instruments and hearing that distinct sound is a big part of the carousel experience.  Still, it was a fun ride and only $0.50.

Out for a mountain drive

We take the easy all-paved route up to Cripple Creek.  It is a lovely mountain drive and we spot a number of mule deer along the way.  Once in town we head for the Cripple Creek and Victor narrow gage steam train.  We are in mining country (gold mining up here) and this railroad runs all small engines as were used to transport ore at mines across North America.  Our little engine #3 is a 0-4-0 meaning just 4 small drive wheels and no lead or trailing trolley wheels.  Small but mighty it carries us out of town for a dirty, smelly trek through Cripple Creek mining history.   Smoke swirls around the engine and back to the open cars carrying cinders with it.  We can smell and even taste the distinct odor.  I should not have worn khaki pants!   It’s all over in just 45 minutes still well worth the hour+ drive up here.

Thunderstorms are brewing around us.  We plan to take the scenic route back down to the valley.  It is graded dirt and we’re thinking it might be better not to do that in the rain!  We keep an eye to the sky but take a little time to explore town.  Town center is Bennett Street.  It looks like an old mining town with great old west store fronts but don’t look too closely.  It’s more false-front than even the old west days.  The buildings have been entirely gutted and behind every window is row after row of gaming machines.  Squeezed in among the behemoth casinos, a handful of small establishments still operate.  We lunch at one of them, The Creek Restaurant and Bar.  It has an old-time western feel with a hammered tin ceiling and a huge polished wood bar.  My elk burger is fantastic.  Tasty and perfectly prepared, med-rare.  Yum.  The sky is still threatening as we finish up lunch.  There is a large well-reviewed museum of local mining history but we need to head out if we are going the back-country route home.  A perfect excuse to come back some time.  We move on.

We swing through Victor but it’s pretty buttoned up.  Looks like most everything is weekend only here.  Kent points us south on Phantom Canyon Road, aka Gold Belt Scenic and Historic Byway.   It follows the route of the 1884 Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad built to move Cripple Creek ore to the Florence smelters.  It is graded dirt, narrow, winding, a bit pot-holed and wash boarded, and as we later find out includes some cool tunnels.  We pass though miles of otherwise undisturbed mountain wilderness descending from 9000 feet to around 5500.  At the bottom we share the narrow valley floor with a beautiful creek.  Gray and green modeled granite formations with splashes of rusty red rise on either side.  Some places steep and smooth other times at odd angels or sort of bulbous in shape looking like long fingers reaching into the sky or giants towering above us.  Muted green of pines and juniper cover all but the steepest outcroppings with brighter green aspen intermixed.  Brilliantly colored wildflowers accent exposed sunny slopes and dot recesses on the cliffs where ever they find purchase.  The creek gurgles through its rock-strewn pathway with areas of the bank blanketed with brilliant green grasses.  It is a wonderful drive.  We see only light sprinkles of rain.  There is dispersed camping along much of the valley.  Looks like it might be great for a few quiet days – tent or car camping of course.

Pueblo downtown

The City of Pueblo has rerouted a portion of the Arkansas River underground to first feed a power plant then to create a well-mannered stream through town suitable for development and recreation; reminiscent of the San Antonio riverwalk area.   It is beautifully done and a great place for strolling.  There are not many businesses along it so far but we do find a pizza place, Angelos, and the stromboli is delicious.  Drink options are nice too so we take a few and relax in the shade along the riverwalk.  Lovely.

There is a man-made whitewater section on the main river channel and they are working hard to squeeze pedestrian and spectator areas between the levy and railyard.  It is looking pretty good but more to do.  Suppose we ought to check in on it again in a few years.