A vast tract of land here in northern Nevada and Arizona is held in the Gold Butte National Monument and The Grand Canyon Parashant.  BLM maintained roads, a portion (occasionally) graded gravel and many more dune buggy two tracks provide the only access.  The Focus was just not the right tool for exploring, but now we have our little pick-up and we are going to check off two more National recreation/conservation destinations on our list.  We are heading out into the back country to Pakoon Springs sort of south west of Mesquite. We pack lots of water, lunch and snacks, warm clothes, tools, a tow rope, first aid kit…….We are ready, having heeded cautionary advice from official and not-so-official blog sources.

Just off I15 we turn onto the Back Country Byway, Gold Butte Road.  Ok, no sweat.  It is paved, at least it has been paved quite some time ago.  It is rough and a bit potholed with low spots where washes cross and bulldozers push mounds of sand and rock aside.  It is mostly flat or shallow grade as we first follow the banks of the Virgin River then start a gradual climb.  We average about 10mph for the first 20 miles.  At Whitney Pocket we make a turn and so do the road conditions.  The next 12 miles it is a graded path with loose rocks and sand.  Thankfully the road crew has been through here recently enough that there are no deep ruts nor cavernous washouts.  We climb a ridge with the grade exceeding 12% in places.  Things get a bit more dicey as we pass Aravada Springs and Nyes Ranch in a narrow cut with steep grade and a few more washed out spots.  With a gentle touch on the accelerator, Kent makes the whole drive out without even using 4-wheel drive.  A challenging drive but not as scary as many suggested.  Signs along the way remind us that even a little rain would have made it a whole different adventure.  We might have needed some of that stuff we brought along.  We did eat our lunch!  The return drive is made easier and a bit quicker using 4-wheel drive.  The entire outing is about 5 ½ hours.

Was it worth the drive?  I think so.

We know this terrain pretty well by now but it still amazes.

Our journey starts in the wide Virgin River valley then cuts through narrow passes across rubble strewn mountain ridges.  We come upon enormous sandstone monoliths; red or white, smooth or knife edged, and laced with erosion holes, seemingly just dropped among the otherwise grey-brown landscape.  Silver grey washes slice down the slopes.

Moisture and temperature drive the vegetation.  Most common is the deep green of creosote bush (they are not blooming yet here) punctuated with scattered clumps of brilliant yellow long stemmed desert asters and weird looking dull yellow cheesebush.    Just when I think there is nothing more out there, I see a splash of orange or the brilliant red of Indian Paintbrush. A purple lupine-like spike makes a solitary showing or in just the right conditions a vast field of yellow poppies (the protected Las Vegas poppies here) covers huge expanses among and beneath the creosote.  At highest elevation pinion pine add there unique green and scent.  The biggest impact of water is seen at the springs scattered along the drive.  We pass three springs that are privately owned and operated as businesses, a spa, a horse training facility and the one furthest in, Aravada, a campground/retreat.  Pakoon Springs is oversee by the BLM and minimally managed, not at all developed.  A stout fence encircles the area to keep livestock and pesky burros from tromping the spring head.  Here, trees tower above thick under growth.  We see many animal tracks, bees and bugs buzz and the scents are completely different.  The effect spills on down the mountainside as a huge meadow and green wash.  An amazing oasis.

Wildlife is sparce but enough to keep me watching.

Kent spots at Willet – what is a shore bird doing here?  For now, standing statue-still among the sand and creosote bushes.  A big horn sheep makes a mad dash along the ridge line just above our path.  Silky flycatchers (Phainopepla) hang out near giant balls of mistle toe.  At Pakoon, a desert cottontail goes zig-zagging among the cover of shrubs and clusters of robins mob bush to bush.  Two California quail call out seemingly playing Marco-Polo across the meadow.

It was a good outing; but we agree, no dune buggy or off-road super jeep in our future.  Our little pick-up will get us out as far and often as we are likely to want to go.

We watch from camp as sheets of rain sweep from clouds to the northeast.  We can see it and recognize the distinct smell as it reaches sun baked desert earth.  None falls where we are but it’s not far away.