Wildflowers here we come

After a quiet night, we are on a mission to check out the wildflowers.  This weekend is actually the last couple days of the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival and there have been many reports of how amazing they are this year.  We choose one of the festival recommended trails, Snodgrass Mountain, head out pretty early for the drive to put us on the trail by 8:30 or so.  The area is amazing with entire hillsides painted mostly shades of yellow but dotted with purple, blue, red, white and orange.  Snow capped peaks ring the valley along with the namesake crested butte.  Wow!  We hike about 4 miles through meadows and treed terrain.  What a great time of year to be here.

North from town a driving loop reaches further up into the mountains.  Kent’s up for a bit more challenging driving, this is NOT all paved.  We start out high above then along the East River and the lush green valley that envelopes it.  I spot an elk.  Cool.  Wildflowers are still around but the show now is the surrounding mountains.  We get lots of pictures and find a spectacular lunch spot. The pictures don’t do it justice.  Two marmots cavort on the rock pile providing lunchtime entertainment.  We won’t be finishing the loop drive.  We meet a Crested Butte bound driver who reports that some earlier driver overestimated his skills and is stuck in remaining snow pack.  They have blocked the road and no one is getting through.  So, home we go.

Crested Butte, the wildflower capital of Colorado

We head out today for the first of two stops to explore the high mesas of central/western Colorado. The area is sparsely populated and nearly all designated as National Forest.  We make our way along US50 west again, in the motorhome this time, to cross Monarch Pass and on to Gunnison where we turn on to county and forest routes.  The last 17 miles climb Taylor Canyon sharing the tree-shrouded route with the Taylor River.  We settle in then set out to explore on up the canyon to Cottonwood Pass.

Turns out I missed a detail or two in my planning research. First, this entire national forest corridor has been specifically designed for off road vehicle recreation.  Everything from dirt bikes to quads to full size off-road vehicles can run these trails.  The word to hikers, watch out!  Had I known, we likely would have steered clear.  But, here we are.  Second, lots of online sources describe the road to Cottonwood Pass as rugged, high clearance, 4-wheel drive only.  Not!  The entire distance is now paved.

On up to Cottonwood Pass. There are switchbacks and hairpin curves and quite a bit of traffic but the drive is lovely and pretty easy.  We are in the Sawatch Range and the pass is at 12,119 ft elevation, the highest paved crossing of the continental divide in the US.  We hike up another couple hundred feet to an amazing view on a trail that winds through a wildflower covered alpine meadow.  It is beautiful in every direction. Trails go on from here but we hang for a bit then head back down then to camp for a quiet evening. The host says there was a bear in camp last week.  I’ll believe it when I see it!

Monarch Pass

We go for an easy day today.  First, a quiet stroll along the river in Salida where we watch “surfers” ride the whitewater and enjoy morning sweet treats from Little Red Hen Bakery.  The lemon bar and three berry muffin are both wonderful. I love the name of the place.  We found it last time we came through and are glad to see it is still in business.

Then, we are on to Monarch pass via US50 to check out the view from 11,312 feet and with a gondola ride up to the top, 12,000ft.  The gondola ride is a bit exciting as the cars bounce in the wind.  It is clear and we see Pikes Peak and The San Juan Mountains, about 80 miles.  We hang and enjoy the views for a bit then are on our way.  The rest of the day is filled with some shopping to restock and prep to move tomorrow.  On to Crested Butte and a quiet National Forest Campground, Lottis Creek.

Into the Wilderness

The front or west side of Browns Canyon National Monument protects the Arkansas River Canyon while allowing lots of development in all but the canyon proper. The east side is a Wilderness Study area with no development and access only by foot or horseback. Often these wilderness areas are great for wildlife viewing since they see much lower visitor traffic and typically require a long hike through front country to access. Here, it looks like we can drive a back route to a remote trailhead and jump right in. We are going to check it out.
Its forecast to be 93F today and we should have gotten a bit earlier start but the trail is in the national forest so we anticipate some pretty good shade and its just 30 some miles to the trailhead. We should be ok.
Just out of Salida we start dirt road. It is a bit narrow and quite twisty but good dirt road as we wander past the vacation homes built above town. Settlement stops and the road condition deteriorates. It is narrower and rougher and twistier as we wind our way around a quarry. It is all county routes and with each number change the road seems a bit less frequently maintained. We come upon a mountain town, Turret. Every single side street has big no trespassing and private property sign with warning to stay on the county route. All other property is overseen by the Turret HOA. Stay out. Ok, we stay to our route and carry on. Now we are definitely on the road less traveled. Brush is encroaching from both sides and wildflowers share the two-track path. Drainage is accomplished by cutting a ditch across the road and loose rock is strewn across steep climbs. We pass through sandy sections and many sections too steep to see the road over the hood or so tight a turn there is no way to tell if any one is coming. Turns out that isn’t a problem. We don’t meet another vehicle anywhere along the narrow route. Our little truck is in low gear 4-wheel drive but doing all that Kent asks of it. We are about 8 miles out what we think will be 10 miles of terrible road when, silence. The truck just shuts off. OMG, what’s that about. We still wonder; but it started right up like nothing happened. Whew! Ultimately washouts and steep roadcuts make it impassable. Kent backs to a wide spot and we hike in what turns out to be the last ¼ mile to the trailhead.
This is why we came here, a walk through wild space with hopes of seeing deer maybe elk and maybe even bear. It is rugged and beautiful as we move along first an old two track road then dry stream beds. Granite monoliths rise high above us with pinon pine and juniper in the valleys between them. We do notice there is not much shade and that the trail is often soft sand underfoot. Neither is what we were expecting. We manage to get off trail following the path of what must have been a trail ride. We wind up trailblazing up and down three ridges and their associated troughs. It’s getting hot and we are a bit tired and exasperated at the difficulty finding the trail. One more climb and tada, we are back on the trail and heading for high ground where we find fantastic long mountain views out over the valley to surrounding 14000s. We are feeling the heat and elevation so cut the hike a bit short and head back. So far one cottontail and a couple chipmunks. Good thing the views were nice.
We take quite a few breaks but make it safely to the truck. Retrace our route along the backcountry roads. Head on back to camp and collapse in the air conditioning.
Overall. It is a beautiful, quiet hike. The drive out to the trailhead is probably too much. If you do go, you definitely do not want to do it on a 90+ day in the brilliant sun. And don’t forget your hat.

A day on the Arkansas River

Yep, we are doing it.  We are setting off on a full day river ride with Noah’s Ark Whitewater Rafting out of Buena Vista.  They took us out and brought us back safely last time, about 6 years ago.  We are suited up:  Life jacket-check.  Helmet-check. Sunscreen-check.  We climb into the back of the raft while our boatmates Jason and LJ take places up front and our guide, Kayla the center position with the oars.  Flow rate is moderate they say, about 1200 cfs.  Reports are the trip will include some class III and a couple class IV but starts out nice and easy with a little bouncing and a few splashes to get us set for the bigger stuff.  We are just getting started when we ride high on a rock in the middle of the river and there we are, stuck.  Really stuck!  Kent and I crawl up to the front, boy was that not a graceful maneuver, trying to transfer weight and get us moving.  We bounce up and down to free us.  We push with paddles.  Ultimately Kayla has to put a foot out and push us off…we twist wildly for a few then settle back into heading downstream.  It ought to be a fun ride.

We enter Browns Canyon with its great riverside views.  We tuck in our toes and hang fast to our paddles as we do our best to follow paddling orders.  Go 1.  Go 2.  Back 2.  Pretty simple, at least until one gets distracted by trying to stay in the boast.   The guys up front get the biggest splashes but Kent and I get the bouncy ride in the back of the boat.  We each land down in the bottom of the boat several times over the course of the trip.  We manage to adhere to the first river rafting rule, “Stay in the boat”.

The sun is hot but the water in the 60s with lots of splashing going on.  Shore lunch is delicious.  The blondies are a particular hit. Not long after lunch stop, we hit the roughest section of the river including Seidel’s Suck Hole….it’s a fun wild ride for us and we make it through without mishap. Not everyone though.  There is a ‘swimmer’ off a raft just behind us and she’s caught in the roiling waters at the base of the rock ledge.  Her head is above water and she’s trying to swim but having trouble getting free.  A loud whistle tweets and all boats move to help.  She pops free of the swirl and is plucked to safety.  It seems long even for those of us not in the water but the whole thing is probably a minute maybe two.  She is a bit shaken but able to carry on.

Just a couple more swirly sections and another grounding on a mid-river rock, less spectacular than the first, then we float out the rest of the trip in relative calm.  There is an uneventful bus ride back to the outfitter base where we drop off gear and bid our adventure companions farewell.  We spot a food truck in the parking lot offering up homemade poptarts.  I find that irresistible and we go for a raspberry one.  It looks very poptart-like and the raspberry filling is actually real raspberries.  It is delicious. We head home.

It has been a great trip.

It’s a record

We move camp just 35 miles today up to Salida and the Colorado Peaks area.  Hardly worth the trouble you’d say but it puts us along the Arkansas River in a beautiful valley with lots of wildlife and classic 14,000-footer views.

I wake up just as it getting light.  I have been watching for a clear morning to see the Sangre de Cristo Mountains show their colors, red at sunrise.  We get a bit of a rosy glow.  Not exactly what I hoped for but it is lovely.

Check out is early and we are on the road by a little past 9.  Check-in at Rocky Top, our next stop, is 2:30 so we looking for a nice stop to spend a few hours.  We settle on a raft take-out area along the Arkansas that is just a wide spot along US 50 but we have a nice river view and we are in the right terrain for big horn sheep.

The big horn don’t disappoint.  One, two ewes and their lambs make their way across the far bank to drink from the river.  Then there is a broken stream of mamas and their young until a band of about 20 drinks, then moves up the riverbank back into the scattered juniper.  Next the rams appear, 6 of them I think, trailing along behind the girls.  This is our first big horn sighting this trip and that’s always exciting.

Rafters come by as well.  It is a quiet section here but there is lots of flow so probably some exciting moments on upstream.  We are undecided as to whether we will be rafting this pass through.  We will have to decide today or likely won’t be able to get a reservation between now and Friday when we move on.

Thanks Mike

We have a fun video call visit with both Willa and Hazel.  Willa is promoting her budding cake baking business and pretty excited about summer time fun; new friends at camp, putting her head “completely” underwater, fireworks with lots of friends, and a classic favorite, funny-face making. Fortunately for us, possibly not so fortunately for the one who has to get her back to sleep, Hazel wakes up and comes to chat too.  Its more giggling and babbling but it is great fun to see her. Can’t wait till our get together in August.

High Mountain Hayfever

Here we go, our first full-blown Bluegrass Festival.  I’ve heard bluegrass groups at various festivals and summer concert series through our travels.  Most recent was while we were in Kingston this summer.  That is when I vowed that we are going to seek out more of this bluegrass/mountain style music and really check it out.  Here we are in Westcliffe, Colorado dry camping in an open field under clear (most of the time) skies soaking up sunshine and bluegrass.

Skip to Sunday, performances are coming to a close.  We went all in.  Across the 3 ½ day festival we spend 24 hours in lawn chairs under a huge tent listening to the likes of Hillbilly Fever, Uncle Shuffelo and this Haint Hollow Hootenanny, Blue Canyon Boys and Southwest Bluegrass All Stars plus lots more.  Many of the groups, and/or their individual members, are well known in this genre and I’m certainly impressed with the picking and strumming everywhere not to mention the amazing washboard playing in the Uncle Shuffelo group!

Kent and I are obviously not qualified to objectively judge what we have been listening to but we have picked out some standouts, in our opinions.  For me it is The Red Mountain Boys.  They are a bit non-traditional I’d say.  They played original music, both lyrics and instrumental which seem to incorporate a fun interplay of all the string parts with breakouts of genre-defining finger-defying picking, especially on the mandolin. My favorite song is Dear John. I get the distinct impression they were all high on their last set…lots of ‘I know something you don’t’ grins exchanged and pretty loose demeanor by all.

I think Kent’s vote would be the group DAYTON; heavily influenced by their Elvis Lookalike banjo player.  He is phenomenal on banjo, guitar, fiddle and mandolin.  The rest of the guys carry their weight.  I agree with Kent, they are probably the most enjoyable traditional bluegrass group.  They brought some original work by their talented songwriters as well.

Under the of heading of unbelievable, the Baker Family, three kids and their mom. They consider themselves Ozark Bluegrass.  That must mean bluegrass on speed.  In their opening set the 19-year-old balanced on the string bass standing on edge while he played it.  I guess he was squeezing ALL the music out of it.

There are food trucks of course, the way many folks do event foods now-a-days.  We have been repeat customers at the tator twist fry-funnel cake truck!

It has been a fun, few days.  We’ll do this or something like it again sometime/somewhere.   If you are looking for a venue to put your toe in the bluegrass water, this Festival in Westcliffe is a great place to do it.  The festival is well run: easy, close camping, free parking for day trippers, reasonable food and water and you can even bring in your own if you want, a beer and wine tent, lots of pleasant volunteers around and attended by many enthusiastic, music loving, well-behaved attendees. On top of that, it is a long running fund raiser for Wet Valley Colorado children’s health and wellness organizations.  Check it out.

Still no bear

It was a cool quiet night and we are up early.  Comanche and Venerable trails leave from camp and head up into NF wilderness.  We have the morning before we head into town so we squeeze in a short hike.  We must be getting a bit more acclimated to altitude; we get winded but don’t have to stop to rest nearly as often.   No bear but a couple new or at least rarely seen by us birds make a showing.  Back at camp we enjoy our great view and bask in the Colorado sun.  Lovely.

Moving on: Alvarado Campground

We are heading into the mountains in search of cooler air.  We make our way to Alvarado Campground in the San Isabel National Forest on the east flank of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains.  It is at 9000 ft elevation and around 75F when we arrive.  Ah, it is lovely. Check out this view from our site.

The camp host stops by as we are settling in.  “Be on the lookout, there has been a black bear in camp the past few nights.”  We are excited at the prospect of seeing it and keep an eye out all afternoon and evening.  We fit in a stroll to check out the rest of the camp.  It is a lovely place.  As for the bear, no luck today.  We will keep an eye out in the morning then its back down the mountain to Westcliffe and the High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass Festival.