Out of the ordinary

It is July 4th.  We are up pretty early on a beautiful bright sunny morning.  It is heading for 95F.  We need to find a holiday-appropriate activity to cool off.  That’s when we decide, yes, we are going to the Fourth of July Wet Parade in Pueblo West.  It is exactly what it sounds like, parade goers and paraders engage in a 1 ½ mile long water battle.  Sounds pretty unmanageable right?  You ought to see the list of rules published to attempt to do so.

We arrive at the wet end of the parade route (the first ½ mile is designated dry – as in no water battle allowed).  Our first thought is to walk to the dry end thinking we don’t want to get dripping wet but get caught up in the spirit and decide to stay along the wet portion of the route.  We are unarmed and a bit older than the rest of the crowd so as long as we don’t get caught up in an active spectator battle wet parade etiquette seems to limit our exposure to light, long-distance volleys. We get just wet enough to be reminded that this is a different sort of celebration.

We settle into a viewing area just a bit back from the road and among family spectators.  The Mayor suspended water restrictions for the event.  Parking regulations have been relaxed allowing locals to pre-park along the parade route 3 DAYS in advance. The place is a bit crazy.  There are tanks of all shapes and sizes and even pickup beds lined with tarps and filled with water.  Pre-parade engagement rules seem to be “any one armed is fair game”.  If they are still dry, they are premium targets.  Spirits are high and groups rove the street coalescing into a flash mob to douse randomly selected sideliners.   It is hot and the sun is blazing.  We gladly accept the occasional overspray.  The parade is actually a bit tamer as float riders (all prepared for the onslaught and most returning fire) are absolutely inundated. No bands.  Only one brave politician.  The honor guard is actually a van with flags out all the just cracked open windows.  It is all as far from patriotic as any 4th celebration I know of; but it is a great way to welcome in summer.

Fireworks, gotta find some.  We settle in at Pueblo West City Civic Park around 8PM.  We know just the place to watch from, a lush picnic lawn we walked through earlier today.  Still an hour or more until dark but locals are already lighting up the sky with some pretty impressive fireworks of their own.  We relax in the cool evening air to enjoy the show.  One, two, three high explosions signal the beginning of the official display.  We don’t even get the first oh or ah out before we hear the hiss of sprinkles, literally right under our blanket, firing off.  We scramble out of reach and take in the rest of the show, standing, to make it easier to stay out of the spray as the rest of the zones come on in turn.   The day ends as unordinary as it began.

Frontier Pathways Byway

Today we are out for a drive through San Isabel National Forest.  The start is near camp in the sage brush plains.  Not too exciting in itself but we do spot prong horn and a Golden Eagle.  Before long we find the rolling foothills then began to climb in earnest into the wet mountains to elevation above 9000 feet.  We started early hoping to see wildlife.  Despite dedicated spotting efforts no mega fauna…coulda shoulda been elk and bear.   Still, it is beautiful.

What an amazing roadside find, a one-man project, Bishop Castle.  It is three stories of stone and iron with flying walkways, stained glass, seemingly endless spiral staircases and a dragon head.  We climb and weave our way through towers and inner rooms.  What fun.  Kent makes his way high into the spherical topworks of the tower.  You could climb around for hours searching for hidden chambers and stairways in this structure.

We stretch our legs on the circle trail around Lake Isabell.  There is lots of fishing happening but according to the folks we talked to not much catching.  Rainbow trout are the target catch.  We cruise through the NF campgrounds and picnic areas all along a creek and nestled in the edges of the thickly wooded valley.  There are a few sites that could accommodate us….someday maybe.

Pueblo City Park has rides!

Pueblo City Park has rides!

I’m most interested in the carousel.  It is #72, county fair style, built in 1911 as the 72nd by Parker Amusement Abilene KS.  The current complement of carved horses isn’t all the originals but they all date to the early 1900s.   I am doubly excited because they even have a working band organ.   Sadly, they only play it evenings so I miss out on my afternoon ride.  Bummers, watching the instruments and hearing that distinct sound is a big part of the carousel experience.  Still, it was a fun ride and only $0.50.

Out for a mountain drive

We take the easy all-paved route up to Cripple Creek.  It is a lovely mountain drive and we spot a number of mule deer along the way.  Once in town we head for the Cripple Creek and Victor narrow gage steam train.  We are in mining country (gold mining up here) and this railroad runs all small engines as were used to transport ore at mines across North America.  Our little engine #3 is a 0-4-0 meaning just 4 small drive wheels and no lead or trailing trolley wheels.  Small but mighty it carries us out of town for a dirty, smelly trek through Cripple Creek mining history.   Smoke swirls around the engine and back to the open cars carrying cinders with it.  We can smell and even taste the distinct odor.  I should not have worn khaki pants!   It’s all over in just 45 minutes still well worth the hour+ drive up here.

Thunderstorms are brewing around us.  We plan to take the scenic route back down to the valley.  It is graded dirt and we’re thinking it might be better not to do that in the rain!  We keep an eye to the sky but take a little time to explore town.  Town center is Bennett Street.  It looks like an old mining town with great old west store fronts but don’t look too closely.  It’s more false-front than even the old west days.  The buildings have been entirely gutted and behind every window is row after row of gaming machines.  Squeezed in among the behemoth casinos, a handful of small establishments still operate.  We lunch at one of them, The Creek Restaurant and Bar.  It has an old-time western feel with a hammered tin ceiling and a huge polished wood bar.  My elk burger is fantastic.  Tasty and perfectly prepared, med-rare.  Yum.  The sky is still threatening as we finish up lunch.  There is a large well-reviewed museum of local mining history but we need to head out if we are going the back-country route home.  A perfect excuse to come back some time.  We move on.

We swing through Victor but it’s pretty buttoned up.  Looks like most everything is weekend only here.  Kent points us south on Phantom Canyon Road, aka Gold Belt Scenic and Historic Byway.   It follows the route of the 1884 Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad built to move Cripple Creek ore to the Florence smelters.  It is graded dirt, narrow, winding, a bit pot-holed and wash boarded, and as we later find out includes some cool tunnels.  We pass though miles of otherwise undisturbed mountain wilderness descending from 9000 feet to around 5500.  At the bottom we share the narrow valley floor with a beautiful creek.  Gray and green modeled granite formations with splashes of rusty red rise on either side.  Some places steep and smooth other times at odd angels or sort of bulbous in shape looking like long fingers reaching into the sky or giants towering above us.  Muted green of pines and juniper cover all but the steepest outcroppings with brighter green aspen intermixed.  Brilliantly colored wildflowers accent exposed sunny slopes and dot recesses on the cliffs where ever they find purchase.  The creek gurgles through its rock-strewn pathway with areas of the bank blanketed with brilliant green grasses.  It is a wonderful drive.  We see only light sprinkles of rain.  There is dispersed camping along much of the valley.  Looks like it might be great for a few quiet days – tent or car camping of course.

Pueblo downtown

The City of Pueblo has rerouted a portion of the Arkansas River underground to first feed a power plant then to create a well-mannered stream through town suitable for development and recreation; reminiscent of the San Antonio riverwalk area.   It is beautifully done and a great place for strolling.  There are not many businesses along it so far but we do find a pizza place, Angelos, and the stromboli is delicious.  Drink options are nice too so we take a few and relax in the shade along the riverwalk.  Lovely.

There is a man-made whitewater section on the main river channel and they are working hard to squeeze pedestrian and spectator areas between the levy and railyard.  It is looking pretty good but more to do.  Suppose we ought to check in on it again in a few years.

Pikes peak

Kent has been itching to drive up this mountain.  Today is the day.  We sign up for the 8-10 time slot and find the highway nearly to ourselves as we set out.  The super helpful gate keeper hints that we save enroute stops for the downhill.  It is supposed to get very windy later in the morning.  Sounds smart.  Kent sticks to the speed limit as we climb and swish through first smooth curves then tight switchbacks.  I’m pretty sure he is enjoying it!  We near the top.  The outside temperature has dropped to 39 and the wind already pretty strong. A yellow-bellied marmot prances around on the snow.  There’s some chance he’s looking for a hand out.  Our little pick-up made the ascent no problem. We climb out and put on all the clothes we brought with us and make our way to the visitor center.  Its new since I was here with Mom and Carol.  Nearly all the area is paved or platforms so very easy to get around and signboards are well done.  Stop one, the snack bar and Pikes Peak donuts.  The cinnamon sugar ones are definitely better.  We check out exhibits and the gift shop then just relax with the view for a while.

 

We are both noticing 14000 foot elevation!  Going down.  We make an emergency stop as one of those adorable but obviously not brilliant marmots dashes in front of us.  We pull off at nearly every stop on the way back down to oh and ah at the views and check for wildlife on the high meadows.  Unfortunately, no luck with that.  Kent might share his own take on it but from my perspective, it was a fun day.

They are big on sasquatch on the mountain.

 

 

 

 

 

We make a short stop in Manitou springs for a spring water tasting tour.  Town is busy and parking is a pain but we do find a spot and sample 5 of the 8 springs from varyingly ornate bronze fountains. They are all some variation of salty and metallic tasting but each has its own unique flavor based on pH and the minerals it contacts as it moves underground.  My thoughts, none is really great tasting but the Navajo is the east objectionable.  Iron Springs is as you might expect, irony; but it is fizzy enough that it sort of grows on you.  It was interesting to compare. A stop at Colorado custard is the perfect post-tasting palette cleansing.

Moving on

We are settled in at Pueblo Lake State Park for a little more south Colorado time.  The move from Alamosa to Pueblo was short and uneventful.  We are in Juniper Breaks unpowered campground and it is hot, 90+.  We check out the visitor center across the lake and, you’ll never believe it, the closed swim area….I think it’s a staffing thing.  There is no convenient lake access from camp but there is a breeze so we hang in the shade for the evening.

Mountain Drive

We drive CO-17 that parallels the route of our train ride on the Cumbres and Toltec.  It is a beautiful drive and gives us opportunity to get some great rolling pictures of the train.  We spot a few elk along the way and scope out access places to trail heads and campgrounds in the Carson and Rio Grande National Forests.  This could be a great site for future adventure.    

We make a stop in Chama for lunch at the Boxcar Café – got to love that railroad theme.  My turkey with green chili sandwich is delicious and Kent reports his fish and chips the same.  It’s a fun little spot for outdoor dining.

Monte Vista NWR

Monte Vista is home to a small Amish enclave, about 30 families.  As we drive through the area there are similarities to the PA and IN Amish.  One big difference, they farm with tractors.  I see only a couple Half-Lingers in a paddock along with lots of buggy horses.  We are excited about one great constant, bakeries.  We stop at” Worth the Drive” bakery and walk away with a free glazed yeast donut (nice touch), 3 fried pies, and a loaf of white bread. Pie rating: a tie between strawberry rhubarb and blueberry then pecan.

We roll through the 2 ½ mile drive at Monte Vista NWR and find lots of blackbirds and the usual collection of ducks. Nothing spectacular.  I do find it amazing to move through this lush landscape in such an overall arid environment.  Thankyou snow melt!

We make a stop at Bontrager Variety Store, just because.  Product ranges from the everyday like shoes, hats, toys and mixing bowls to some spectacular chiming clocks.  There is a section for solar panels and lithium batteries too.

We head back to camp for the afternoon but must squeeze in one more stop in Alamosa, Frosty acres Rolled Ice Cream.  We watch as they prepare our choices, a Jitterbug and an El Rancho.  The Jitterbug: coffee flavored cream with slivered almonds then whipped cream and caramel drizzle.  The El Rancho: cream with graham cracker, chocolate and caramel drizzle topped with whipped cream and a toasted marshmallow.  The process: cream is poured onto a subzero steel plate, stir-ins quickly added then all smoothed out to flash freeze.  Wielding a narrow bench scraper, the artist rolls sections into a tight jellyroll shape and stacks them in your cup.  Toppings are added.  Voila, rolled ice cream.  Great to watch and beautiful to behold.  We enjoy the eating part too!

A waterfall (almost) and aliens

Zapata Falls on nearby BLM and state-owned land isn’t huge, just 24 feet tall but a bit of an oddity in this dry landscape.   We head out around 9 to check it out.  At the trail head we find a sign warning us that to actually see the falls one has to hike about ½ mile up the running creek bed.  Darn, none of my research told me that!  We give it a try anyway.  Maybe the water level will be manageable?  Nope.  We hike the dry first half mile or so and find that we will have to wade at least high-ankle deep the entire remaining route to the falls and neither of us are in suitable shoes.  It sounds beautiful….we settle for that and head back.

Since we are pretty early off the trail, we take a side trip to check out The UFO Watchtower. It’s been on my list since we got here.   What a joke.  It is definitely an “anything for a buck” place not the serious sort of alien believers we have found at Roswell and Marfa.  Probably worth the $5 each for entertainment value!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We lunch at Emma’s Authentic Food of the Southwest in Alamosa.   It is a small family place a little higher priced than most Mexican-like food establishments but the service is great and the food delicious.  I have stuffed sopapilla Christmas (green and red chillis) and Kent tries Emma’s Special, a taco, burrito, refried beans (excellent) and a sopapilla with honey butter.  I’d do it again.