We are off to explore some of the forested sections that front the dunes along Medano Pass Primitive Road that tracks along Medano Creek. We know before we start that we can’t go past the 6th creek crossing since water is high and there is lots of mud. Many are getting stuck. We hope to get that far. One mile in and we encounter “deep, soft sand” warning signs with advice to reduce air pressure to navigate. Rats, too daunting. We park at “The Point of no Return” and set out on foot. Sand Ramp Trail runs along the forest edge with some nice views of the dunes but the mosquitos are thick and ruthless. We make it 2.5 miles out then turn back, actually opting to walk back the road to avoid the buggiest sections. All told we see 2 cottontails and a green tailed towhee, not a wonderful critter count. We dally a bit to wade in Medano Creek cooling our toes in the ever-changing flow streams. We make a couple more stops (in breezy areas) to enjoy views. We are relieved to get back to the truck but unhappy that we made the trek.
Great Sand Dunes
It is a chilly 42F when we roll out of bed at 6:45. Weather Underground forecasts 82 by mid-day with brilliant bright sun and humidity around 22%. If we are going sand dune climbing, we better get going. We grab a quick breakfast and are at the trail head by 8:20. Wow, there are tons of mosquitoes. The NP web page warned there could be but, it seemed they might be exaggerating. This is high desert after all! Nope, they decend upon us in clouds and even with repellant we scurry out of vegetation onto the wind-swept sand field to find relief. Medano Creek originates as snow melt high in the Sangre De Cristo mountains and wraps around this side of the dune field. It has reduced in flow since spring peak but it is still amazing to see it here. I take off my shoes and splash through the wonderfully cool braided rivulets. We witness pulse flow; a phenomenon caused as temporary sand dams in the flow form and collapse with the water flow. Pretty cool. It is a fun crossing.
Ok time to start hiking. That’s where we are heading, High Dune. Just follow the ridges a mere 2.5 miles round trip. The path is rolling to start but soon becomes steeper with many sections across deep loose sand. There are quite a few breaks and after an hour of climbing we begin to question whether we really need to go all the way to High Dune. Well, maybe. We keep trekking. We are both doing lots of huffing and puffing and I’m a bit queasy. Looks like maybe I am not quite acclimated to 7500 – 8000 ft. We cut the hike short stopping at a pre-dune after about a 325ft climb in elevation and take a seat on the ridge. The view is fantastic and it’s a great spot to sit and watch sand boarders. With a bit of rest, some salty snacks, and plenty of water I’m feeling ok. We stick to our decision to stop our ascent and make our way back down toward the creek. No way the High Dune trip could have been just 2.5 miles. Our round trip was 2.25 miles and it was easily another ¾ mile to the very top. No matter, we had a great hike.
We check out the visitor center and get a pretty good lesson on this unique ecosystem that encompasses the mountain ridge (its contribution of water from snowmelt and effect on wind and weather patterns), the sand field (its origin as mountain erosion products deposited in a great inland sea), and water (it sustains life here, regenerates the aquifer, and transports sand back to the base of the dunes to be carried through again) together they sustains this always changing but ever stays the same system. This site is one of the few National Park and Preserve sites where all elements, even the underlying aquifer are protected and the ecosystem less threatened by neighboring land uses. Good Job Department of the Interior.
Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad
I love historic steam train excursions and Kent is a great sport about joining in whenever I find them. Today our refurbished passenger car pulled by powerful 2-8-2, narrow gage, coal-fired, steam locomotive, engine 484. It was built around 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive.
Love those chug-chug and hiss sounds of it working. Love the whistle and the clang signaling to all what’s to happen next. We board in Chama, NM for a 64-mile ride to Antonito, CO along a rail line built in the late 1800s. The route passes through steep-walled river-carved ravines and broad U-shaped valleys cut by glaciers, the rail bed sometimes carved into cliff faces or twisting past steep rocky cuts; most notable Toltec Gorge. We cross Cumbres Pass through the San Juan Mountains at 10,015ft elevation. From Chama to Osier (about half way) the route spends much of its mileage climbing, including plenty of 4% grade so we have lots of opportunity to hear and watch the engine really work. Best views come in the stacked tight curves laid out to make the climb without exceeding possible grade. There are tunnels and trestles of course. We spot wildlife too; elk, some a binocular distance and even a small band bedded down just 100 ft or so from the track. There are pronghorn, a mule deer, and prairie dog. An earlier trip saw black bear but not us. Scenery is spectacular nearly the whole ride leaving me to comment more than once,” I could live here”, as we roll past 1800 homesteads and modern cabins dotting the wide valleys. Sage brush plains near Antonito are not amazing to look at but they do provide opportunity for pronghorn sighting.
We stop for lunch at Osier, very well done “What the Truck” catering.
One more fun thing to watch (if you are a steam train enthusiast of course) here at Osier, an engine change. We meet the Chama bound train pulled by the older 463 engine along the siding and watch the choreographed exchange as 848 drops our cars then backs off the main rail.
463 drops her cars then backs onto our track. 848 maneuvers to lock onto the Chama bound cars and 463 backs in to lock onto our cars. Smooth as silk and now both trains are idling ready to go on our way. It seems the more powerful 848 is kept on the Chama side of the pass running that half of the route. The older locomotive, 463; owned by the city of Antonito, runs the less demanding Antonito side.
Don’t miss this ride. It is one of the greatest scenic railroad excursions we have gone on.
Costilla County History
Founded in 1851, San Luis is the oldest town in Colorado. We check out a major attraction, The Shrine of the Stations of the Cross, built by/funded by the Sangre de Cristo Parish. The bronze statues are amazingly detailed. I can’t avoid a lapse into the technical, what a magnificent application of lost wax bronze casting.
Fort Garland was built in 1858. Five of the original adobe buildings still stand and house a nicely curated collection of artifacts. Colorado volunteers trained here and served in the Civil War. Buffalo Soldier cavalrymen trained and served from this Fort distinguishing themselves in Indian relations. It is an informative and interesting local museum.
Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge
We head out pretty early for some bird and wildlife watching. Neary all of the foot trails are closed to protect the breeding grounds of the endangered Southwestern Willow Flycatcher but there are a couple drives to check out. Wetland habitat is home for mallards, blue winged teal, yellow headed and lots of red wing blackbirds. We spot a Virginia Rail as it crossed the road in front of us, one bird we rarely get such a good look at. Bluff Overlook drive runs along a ledge with a wide view of the San Luis Valley. There are elk and odd-looking rock ledges turn out to be large herds of sheep tightly clustered together moving like a single mass.
Road trip back west
It is a lot of miles in a short time. There is a bit of excitement near the end of the trip as Kent manages to weave us through a front of heavy storms with grapefruit sized hail and 70 MPH wind. We run through some heavy rain but emerge unscathed.
It is our last travel night and we land in a bit of a throwback place, The Anchor Motel in Walsenburg, CO. It is a Mom and POP strip motel with parking right outside your door. Rooms are very small and sparsely furnished but it is comfy and mostly clean! Kent finds a great dining option, The Crafty Canary. It is actually mostly local brewery and craft cocktail joint with just enough food options to get by. Of course, we try the cocktails. Mine a lemon/sage/cucumber/herb spritzer and Kent a Whiskey Smash. It is a nice ending to the road trip.
Kingston time
Celebration! – our primary reason for the NY visit – Willa’s 5th birthday. Cake baking and decorating is the first order of business. It’s a rainbow this year. Three batches of cake and an unbelievable amount of brightly colored buttercream icing. Check it out.
As part of a compromise (Willa asked for poop shaped cake) Willa helped decorate “poop’ cupcakes. I’m not sure it’s a great idea…..we shall see.
The party is at the kids’ house and is a big hit. There are lots of kids and their families, grandparents, and extended family Uncle Brian and Great Aunt Carol. A huge unicorn balloon greets the guests, another one makes an appearance as a pinata, and the rainbow cake is a hit. Cool looking and tasty.
Willa just had to share the “Poop” cupcakes. The kids loved them….
Happy Birthday, Willa.
Much of the rest of our visit was grand daughter time. Tracy is out of town on business and we jump at the chance to spend time with them. Walks, bike rides, wagon rides, a little baking, projects, reading, and a lot of pretend play. Kent and Willa challenge Mike to a pretty competitive game of chess. Mike one; Willa, next time.
It is Spring concert time for the pre-k class and we are all invited. What a fun program. We love it Willa. We sneak a few no grand-kids moments. I get an evening out with just “my” boys and Kent and I have breakfast out with our guys. All too rare and cherished get-togethers.
We fit in a hike at Black Creek Preserve. Willa is on foot and Mike has Hazel in the carrier. The trail crosses a number of bridges and there are great huge old trees so there are lots of troll and ogre encounters. Good time had by all.
We squeeze in a little home remodeling work. Kitchen counters have already been replaced, some great looking white plus marbling quartz. The next real step is back splash but there was a bit of electrical work to do behind that section of the wall first. Done! We reset the stove to add insulation and dishwasher to fit the new countertops. Always something…..
Bye guys, we head back west to Colorado. Next visit, the whole Kingston family with us at Tetons National Park. Can’t wait to see you then!!
Family time – heading east
York PA – a quick check in with Bob Lou Ann and family and Carol. Great down time by the pool catching up with everyone. One more b’day cake recipe trial; hooray, it works. We move on to Kingston for the Spring highlight, Willa’s birthday party. We pick up Brian in Albany and head for the kids. Can’t wait to see them all!
High School Class of ’73 50th reunion
Day 10 we head to Point Pleasant, WV for Kent’s 50th class reunion. Traffic is surprisingly light given it is Friday of Memorial Weekend but we’ll take it. It is a beautiful morning and the drive is uneventful – other than a stop at Hillbilly Hotdog. Who could bypass that? We are settled in over in Gallipolis and the first gathering of old school buddies happens this evening.
50 years – how time flies. Kent very much enjoys these get-togethers. I have been to enough of them to know a few of his classmates and have a good time as well. He takes in the whole event: a “formal” all year’s alumni dinner at the school which besides the food includes the reading of alumni meeting minutes, awarding of scholarships, and the recognition of various alumni for various things. I catch up the next day for his year of ‘73 pizza party and cocktails at the country club.
Kent’s cousin Charlotte organizes a family gathering (Tammy drives in for it) so we get to do some catching up with all of them too. It is a nice stay then we are off to PA.
Family time out West and mid west
Houston- day 5 – We crash at Brian’s place for a couple days. There are a few chores but mostly we just hang out and catch up. I do try the b’day cake recipe again but it isn’t much better, oh-oh. Maybe one more try at Carol’s before I give up on vanilla cake. We all spend one morning at Brazos Bend State Park where trails around the ponds are a great place for wildlife watching. Typically, there are many gators but we see only a few today. Birding is pretty good though – night herons are everywhere along with egrets, anhinga, blue herons and great blue herons. We come upon a doe and very new fawn. It jumps and prances around Mom then tucks in close to hide. They are wonderful to watch.
We make the first of what will become a string of stops at regional dining favorites, Schlotzsky’s. Monday morning and Brian is off to school (one more week to go) and we head on to Louisville to check in with Tammy.
Louisville – day 8- to spend some time with Tammy. But first, a throwback morning. We take the historic tour of Mammoth Cave. There are more handrails and more of the path is paved but otherwise it looks pretty much the same as 30 years ago. The moments when the guide turns off all the lights are still very impressive! We move on into Louisville. On our way into town we grab lunch at Ollies Trolly, burgers and fries liberally coated in their special spices. Another foodie flashback and yep, just like we remember them. Now it is all about hang time. We spend a day and a half at Tammy’s catching up and enjoying their wild-life filled back yard. They feed all the locals so there are ground hogs, raccoons, squirrels and a myriad of feathered friends. There are more foodie stops too. By the time we move on we have gotten our fix at Moby Dicks, Bob Evans, Godfathers Pizza, the Chiller Ice cream shop, and Krispie Kreme. Better move on.