Zion is our next planned stop but it is just over an hour drive in the car from here so we decide to spend our MH maintenance extension day there. Our goal is to check out the visitor center and do planning for our stay later this week. Maybe we’ll get in a couple easy hikes.
Tuesday morning around 9 there is a que at the entry gate probably 15 minutes long. The only lot in the park is at the visitor center and it is packed. We cruise the entire lot once but luck out as we begin lap 2, someone’s pulling out. Yeah! First thing we learned for later in the week, come early. The Narrows and Angel’s Landing are two signature trails here and we are entertaining hiking them both. The information desk confirms online reports, no hiking the narrows up the Virgin River this week. The trail opens at any flowrate below 150 cfs through the canyon. That won’t be happening any time soon. The current river flow rate is 1360 cfs through the trail canyon and there is still a lot of snow melt to come from atop the surrounding mountains. As for Angel’s Landing, sounds like we can try for a next day permit online. We might.
We have some trepidation about having to ride a shuttle to access the main canyon. It is no sweat today. We never wait more than 5 minutes, it is nice not to have to fret about parking, and Kent and I both can enjoy the fantastic view. We walk the riverwalk at the end of the canyon. It ends at the step-off for The Narrows hike into a torrent of churning, chocolate milk colored water. Indeed, 1360 cfs is WAY too much water.
This is California Condor country and we 
were advised to check at Big Bend along the shuttle route for a possible sighting. Good advice. We spot a pair roosting on a cliff ledge then effortlessly riding the thermals to high above the canyon walls. Hooray!
At weeping rock, a graceful, windblown
waterfall cascades off the high pour-off adding to the usual dripping spring in the alcove. It is a spectacular addition.
That is it for today.
above the canyon floor. Black, crumbly ‘A’a lava, spewed intermittently from long silenced volcanoes, caps some cliffs and litters the canyon beneath. It has affected erosion of the softer stone beneath it creating unexpected shapes. It’s sharp, loose-underfoot debris makes walking a challenge where ever it collects. We check out The Pioneers Names cliff…dates written in an alcove of the cliff with what they believe is axel grease date back to the 1870s. Must have been quite the journey through here back then. We hike about 3 ½ miles getting close up looks of formations and great overlook views of the entire canyon.
from these enormous formations are the tiny crater-like shapes in the dust at our feet. Equally awesome! This is where it sprinkled rain last night.
The Focus was just not the right tool for exploring, but now we have our little pick-up and we are going to check off two more National recreation/conservation destinations on our list. We are heading out into the back country to Pakoon Springs sort of south west of Mesquite. We pack lots of water, lunch and snacks, warm clothes, tools, a tow rope, first aid kit…….We are ready, having heeded cautionary advice from official and not-so-official blog sources.
Back Country Byway, Gold Butte Road. Ok, no sweat. It is paved, at least it has been paved quite some time ago. It is rough and a bit potholed with low spots where washes cross and bulldozers push mounds of sand and rock aside. It is mostly flat or shallow grade as we first follow the banks of the Virgin River then start a gradual climb. We average about 10mph for the first 20 miles. At Whitney Pocket we make a turn and so do the road conditions. The next 12 miles it is a graded path with loose rocks and sand. Thankfully the road crew has been through here recently enough that there are no deep ruts nor cavernous washouts. We climb a ridge with the grade exceeding 12% in places. Things get a bit more dicey as we pass Aravada Springs and Nyes Ranch in a narrow cut with steep grade and a few more washed out spots. With a gentle touch on the accelerator, Kent makes the whole drive out without even using 4-wheel drive. A challenging drive but not as scary as many suggested. Signs along the way remind us that even a little rain would have made it a whole different adventure. We might have needed some of that stuff we brought along. We did eat our lunch! The return drive is made easier and a bit quicker using 4-wheel drive. The entire outing is about 5 ½ hours.
It is Impressive. Brick red, white, and tan layers of sandstone stripe the towering cliffs on either side. Some perfectly level some tipped nearly vertical by the movement along an ancient fault line. Lush green grass clings to the flater slopes nearer the river providing a striking reminder the impact of water sources in this arid land. Cedar Pass is a BLM campground right in the middle of this remarkable place. We could not get a reservation so have our fingers crossed for one of the first come first serve sites. Hooray! Site 63. Great view. Bonus, $4 a night with a senior pass. We will put this campground on our “certainly return” list. Sunset is not spectacular but quietly lovely. The sky cleared for pretty amazing star gazing, surprisingly spoiled a bit by tramp light from both the north and south. There is some traffic noise from 15 but the night is wonderfully restful. I fall asleep to the sound of water rushing through the bends of the narrow canyon.
Now for the truck hookup: there is lots of double checking and we even have the owners’ manual out. We got it. 10:30 AM and we are on our way.
control with thumbs up, flat hand and thumbs down for go fast, maintain speed and slow down. By the next day she is in her own seat and smiling broadly into the wind. We go super-fast a lot!
treasure maps, X marks the spot, emerge from an early project session so of course, we have to go on treasure hunts. Willa directs Kent as we zip across the lake in search of the perfect island beach and high mountain to climb to find the treasure. Two such excursions result in fun hikes and shore lunch with our treasures being fields of wildflowers and cactus blossoms.
hike the Ring Trail through the hole in the mountain cliffs. Kent has prepped her and she is ready to try it. The walk begins in a sandy wash, crisscrosses rocky cactus strewn areas and passes a pictograph area where we check out ancient rock drawings. Then the featured event, a climb through boulder filled narrow cracks in the mountain aided by metal pins and rings driven into the rock. Willa heads right into the climb making careful foot placement and never faltering. Quite the accomplishment.
out across the fore dunes toward the peaks. Willa is adamant, she is going to the top. She is equally adamant that any trip to a place with this much sand MUST include sand castle building. We have packed tools and extra water just for that task. We skip and run then trudge and finally even crawl across 2 miles of soft sand. She and I make it tantalizingly close to the top but the sand is just too hot to go on. Looking back toward the tiny dot that is Grandpa below us we decide we have accomplished enough and race down the steep slopes to about the half way point where we stop for a cool drink and some epic sand castle building. Climbing was so difficult that we had to drink our extra castle water but are thrilled to find that if one digs below the dry top sand, a seemingly endless supply of perfect damp castle sand can be found. The building was a blast and I think Willa enjoyed the demolition phase even more. It is a significant trek back to the trail head. We will all sleep well tonight.
The cinder cone rises high above the desert floor making it an exciting adventure and a bit daunting. There is no real hesitation, Willa wants to climb the volcano; but, “next time can we take a break and not hike two big hike two days in a row? Take a day off?”. I agree, that is a good plan. We continue on with couple snack and drink breaks at conveniently placed benches then navigate steep switchbacks until we find ourselves on the high rim of the crater. Ancient pumice type lava fields stretch out all around the cinder cone and a smooth solidified lava floor fills the center. We rest and have lunch as we marvel at the view. Willa declares that yes, she wants to hike down into the crater to walk on the lava. The walk is a little precarious, steep and lots of loose rock but most is safely navigated holding Grandpa’s hand.
Her biggest booboo of the trip happens just steps from the center of the cone where Willa slides on loose stone and lands on sharp edged volcanic rock. There is no blood but some scratches and she is frustrated because she was trying so hard to walk the trail on her own like grandpa showed her. There are a couple full throated screams then once the damage is inspected and nerves calm, she is anxious to check out the very middle of the volcano. The journey back down goes smoothly with Willa staying a little closer to Grandpa and taking his hand a bit more than the uphill trek. It was a great adventure that ended with a stop for ice cream, it is a hot day, and the purchase of a Route 66 magnet at Roy’s Diner. We extend the day with a drive through the Preserve to check out the visitor center and look for blooming Joshua Trees. We take the back way home on Wild Horse Canyon Drive. Willa got to see a group of beautiful wild horses, maybe just released horses, and we got to try out the truck 4-wheel drive. It is nearly dark when we finally get home. Willa works on her Jr Ranger book. She has nearly completed it.