A bit of a hike then a quiet dinner at home. It is a great day!
Trail time is a stroll along Blue Pond trail in Dunn Creek State Park. It is a peaceful walk with plenty of woodpeckers to watch.
Valentine’s Day
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The north shore of Apopka Lake
It is time for a wildlife drive through wetlands. We spot many of the usual suspects; lots of great blue herons, anhinga, coots and moorhens plus a nice sampling of raptors and ducks and even a few warblers. An eagle poses regally and a typically illusive limpkin strolls up the roadside. We are along a lakeshore in central Florida so of course there are alligators.
This lake and its shoreline wetlands are part of a long-running experiment to restore a lake literally poisoned by agricultural pesticide and fertilizer pollution. For over 20 years now water has been cycled out of the lake into the wetlands and back to allow vegetation to filter heavy phosphorus pollution from the water. Water quality has improved from “toxic to nearly all wildlife” to “suitable for most bird species”. Progress to be sure, but lots more work to do. What a mess. Here is hoping we have learned to avoid polluting like this rather than betting that nature can clean it back up.
Sunshine and blue skies, let’s go
Cold, wet weather has kept us inside for a week. Finally, it turns more Florida-like so we head out to Rice Creek Conservation area for a trek along a section of the Florida Trail. We make our way beneath towering palm trees and graceful live oaks winding among a thick understory of fan palms; cypress knees jut up through the trail. Air ferns, moss and lichen blanket nearly all surfaces around us. Deeper into the conservation area we encounter bridges that criss-cross Rice Creek and allow us to move among blackwater pools. The water surface perfectly reflects all around it. What a wonderful example of a cypress swamp! We are deep within it and blissfully, there are no bugs. One good thing brought to us by the recent cold weather.
A bit further on the Florida Trail and we move onto higher ground, an oak hammock. 
The local trail club maintains this section and has built a fantastic camp site complete with a picnic table, pitcher pump and the Rice Creek Hilton. Check it out.
We work our way out of what seems like perfect reptile country wondering why we haven’t seen a single alligator or snake. Right on cue, a hawk with a big snake dangling from it’s talons glides through the treetops just ahead of us. What a great unexpected ending to a fun walk.
Angel’s Dining Car
It is lunch time. Since we are still in Palatka, we check out some famous local eats at Angels Dining Car. It is billed as the oldest diner in Florida. I think I can believe that. It is a long narrow space with counter stools down the center and booths for maybe a dozen along the outside wall. Everything has multiple coats of paint. There are old juke box speakers and vintage 45s hanging on the wall. The food? Not bad. I try a diner original, a black bottom sandwich (bacon and ground beef stirred into eggs and fried into a bun sized disc). Add some cheese, tomato and lettuce and schmear of mayo. I am not sure how it got its name, it is not black bottomed, but it is tasty. Carol’s onion rings are yummy as is the lobster bisque. Kent stayed a bit more main stream with a club and fries, also not bad. I top it off with their dessert of the day, peach cream pie. I expected a cream pie with peach chunks in the filling but nope, it is a standard peach pie with whipped cream on the top. Still, so good.
I do love azaleas
We are off to Ravine State Park in Palatka. A CCC work crew created formal garden areas and terraces and developed the spring areas that feed into a deep, steep sided, naturally occurring ravine. The ravine is itself a rarity in Florida but the park’s primary claim to fame is a brilliant rolling azalea bloom along the top ridge of this ravine. This winter cold weather has hampered all manner of early spring blooming but I need to see how the azalea have fared. Fuchsia, salmon pink and reds are beautiful. Some varieties sport huge blossoms and others the more familiar smaller flower. But sadly, we find that this is not the year for azalea in this part of Florida. We find only scattered patches in bloom. Many CCC “improvements” are being allowed to revert to natural state while suspension bridges and pavilions still provide lovely outdoor spaces for locals. The park is oversold on their webpage but it was still worth a visit.
Back on the Hunt for Manatees
Carol is with us today as we head out to Salt Springs again to check for Manatees. The cold weather has dropped the lake water temperature to 57 degrees encouraging the manatees to seek warmer water. It is a constant 74 degrees at the spring. We take a leisurely ride up salt run sharing the ride with eagles, great blue heron, egrets, anhinga, kingfisher, and hawks. Along the way the water temperature is rising as anticipated.
We have a fleeting sighting of the 1st manatee before we even arrive at the spring. We anchor at the spring pool and sit quietly. The gentle giants swim around and under the boat. One is tugging at the floats attached to crab traps in the area; a bit like enrichment toys for animals in the zoo. Big whiskered noses break the surface for a quiet breath. All together we probably see 6 manatees. It is a nice outing.
The wind has built up while we are out. Kent sneaks around the downwind side of the island for a bit smoother ride but we get a pretty bumpy ride home.
This does not feel like Florida!
We are in our self-imposed 5 day Covid quarantine and napping a bit to rest up from our vacation so weather isn’t a big deal; but, it is gloomy and cool all week. We squeeze in one short hike then batten down the hatches for a hard freeze, a real rarity here in central Florida. The coldest morning, 24F. Brrrrr. It is not going to last through. Florida feel returns later this week, when it will be back up to 80 and sunny. Time to get back to fishing and manatee watching!
Yellowstone Winter Couples Adventure In a nutshell
Winter offers a wonderful perspective in the park. Bright white snow cover provides brilliant contrast along waterways and throughout the landscape. Cold air amplifies steam plumes creating eerie views at thermal features. Visitation averages around 2.5% of peak summer crowds making for a blissfully low-stress trek through the park. It also allows wildlife to move more freely and openly near visitor traveling corridors making for frequent and more casual sightings.
Four days devoted to exploring provides for lots of flexibility to backtrack or reorder activities and just hang out a few minutes longer to meet everyone’s expectations for the trip. It was a nice change having someone else doing all the planning and organizing.
The guide makes the experience. John’s obvious devotion to and reverence for this place along with his easy nature with the group makes him perfect.
I am not sure I am in favor of all the snowmobiles in the park. When they show up in large groups it feels a bit like an invasion. Maybe that’s just me?
Fun tidbit – Old Faithful employees participate in their own version of the Olympics in late February. There are classic winter events and decidedly non-traditional events all in the spirit of team building and moral boosting. Seems visitors can come and observe. Might be worth looking into if you are planning a winter outing to Yellowstone in the future.
To close the loop; my trepidation was unfounded. Our traveling companions were wonderful people with which to share this awesome place.
Last day in the park
Morning is awesome. We wake early and I get a short look at an inky black sky absolutely filled with stars. It lasts maybe 10 minutes then fog and steam roll back in – but I get to see it! 
We are out for one last Old Faithful eruption. While we stand in silence the howl of a lone wolf floats from not far across the basin. It is mournful and powerful at the same time. A bit frightening and mesmerizing. A two-pitch clear toned howl repeats for 4 or 5 minutes, takes a break and resumes this time with a bit more flourish on both ends of the howl. I wonder, who is the message for? What does it mean? No one answers.
It is time for our final snow coach ride out from Old Faithful back to Mammoth. we check out Middle Geyser Basin
and Grand Prismatic Springs. Mist/fog hangs heavy over the features obscuring much of their color but it is still an impressive thermal area. A waterfall into the Firehole River is a reminder of the tremendous power beneath us that heats such huge quantities of water that is released throughout the caldera. There are magnificent long views from the slightly elevated boardwalk.
We do some bison watching. 
We have been on the watch for a glimpse of the icon of winter Yellowstone, a snow-covered bison. Here we have him as a huge bull quietly swings his massive head to uncover grasses. A long train of bison cows and calves cross just in front of the coach. Cows encourage and correct to keep the young ones moving and the calves cavort in the snow. It is a classic family moment.
We catch a few more thermal stops. 
We revisit Paint Pots in the daylight, slow to a crawl at Norris Basin for one last hopeful check for a Steamboat eruption, and walk to Canary Spring atop the travertine terrace.
We get another fun look into a few minutes in the life of a pair of coyotes as they trot across Fairy Meadow flats. We speculate, is it a female with male in pursuit? He, the follower, slows as he is distracted by some sound beneath the snow. He dawdles as the female disappears in the rolling terrain. Howling ensues. Once again, we are left wandering what are they saying?
Back at Mammoth Hot Springs we bid farewell to Yellowstone and our guide and host, John. It is hard to imagine a better ambassador for Yellowstone. I leave more knowledgeable about the park and its inhabitants and with a renewed respect for how rare and special this place is. The trip has also been a nice reminder to slowdown and appreciate life and surroundings in the moment.
A farewell toast! Korbel Brute in Yellowstone flutes.
It has been a great week.
Wolves
We weren’t the only ones who heard the wolves last night. There is lots of excitement around Old Faithful geyser basin. Howling and tracks confirm there are wolves here and it is extremely rare for them to be in this section of the park. Rangers and guides have been out tracking and in search of a kill site that might explain why they are here. Today we join in. 
We are set to go snow shoeing around the thermal features with a guide, Berlin, but the route expands to cover some of the area with signs of wolf traffic. We find lots of tracks in the snow, some muddy tracks on the boardwalks and even a bit of scat. It is a great adventure. Our walk includes a geyser of course, Solitary Geyser, and we make it to Observation Point with a great view of the basin. Our inexperience at snow shoeing and 7300+ft elevation combine to keep us breathing pretty deeply but it is a great trip.
Our afternoon thermal feature trip turns into a bit of a Wolf quest too and it pays off. Check out this picture of wolf butt Kent got.
The wolf trotted right along the road then off across the meadow and out of sight. It is magical to see them move. We are anxious for another look so move along the roadway and pull offs stopping and straining to catch another glimpse.
After a particularly raw, windy stop at Flood Geyser results in no further sightings, we end our wolf quest for now. We close out our afternoon excursion with a geyser walk at Biscuit Basin. It has been a spectacular day so far.
There is dinner, bison short ribs and braised lamb, but the day isn’t done.
It is 6:45PM and we load up for a night time excursion to the Fountain Paint pots. Enroute two wolves come toward us tracking first down middle of the road then right past along-side the coach. We got a great look at those magnificent creatures just doing their thing. Fantastic.
Steam and stars and soundscapes. What a different world this is in the dark. Glurgles, spitters, hisses and smells fill in what the eye can’t register. We get some snow. We close the walk with a cup of hot chocolate, thanks John, and a few minutes of silence, great idea John, under the dark sky. Almost as if they were waiting for us to be quiet, wolves begin their chorus. That sounds seems to create more of a connection than even seeing them and it hits home just how amazing it is that we are actually sharing this part of the earth with them. What a perfect way to end the day.