It is surprisingly chilly as we slide out of bed by 6AM.  Desert weather is a bit bizarre.  We have a two-hour drive in front of us as we head for Santa Elena Canyon.  Another hot day is forecast so we want to get an early start on the trail into the canyon. There is a heavy haze in the park muting the normally spectacular long mountain views but the drive is uneventful and we are anxious to get out along the river.  We spot mule deer and horses near the river — cows too. Parked and geared up we head for the trail.   Rats, Terlingua Creek is running high and has created a gummy muddy mess just at the base of the bluff above Santa Elena Canyon.  We have to cross to pick up the trail that runs back into the canyon along the magnificent cliffs carved by the Rio Grande.  Hikers ahead of us sink mid-calf deep in sticky muck.  We know it is a beautiful walk but, No thanks!  We wander along the rocky shore and Johnna even gets her toes wet but we opt not to make the sticky crossing and instead move on the check-out other points of interest.

We check out a bit of regional history at Castolon then enjoy a leisurely return drive through the desert with views up the Chisos Mountains.

Once home, Brian jumps in to help make icing for his own bday cake.  Who am I to turn down help?  Cake and icing are low carb/keto friendly.  We sample and it seems promising.  Tomorrow will tell.

Dinner is grilled shrimp and garlic butter riced cauliflower with spinach.  Delicious.  We have just enough heat left in the charcoal fire for s’mores.  No, I haven’t found a recipe for a keto friendly version of those!

We awake to the orange glow of sunrise through a lingering haze. It is thinner than last evening so we are hopeful that it will clear through the day. We head out toward Boquillas Canyon. Visitor Centers are closed, replaced by small outdoor displays and token gift shop. Thank you, covid-19. We walk the nature trails at Panther Junction and Dugout Wells as we make our way to Boquillas Canyon where the Rio Grande has cut its way through the limestone and winds its way between 1300 foot high cliffs. From miles away, the river is not quite visible but we can trace the bright green ribbon of vegetation that thrives near it. We check out the overlook then take on the trail that runs into the river canyon. The trail is strewn with knick-knacks made of beads and wire, walking sticks and even clothing all laid out by residents of Boquillas Mexico, a tiny village just on the opposite river shore. Covid has closed the crossing for most of this year taking away their normal tourist income. We encounter probably a dozen locals here on the US shore, many more than in previous visits, displaying and hawking their creations. There is some spectacular bead work, the scorpions are my favorite, but resist the temptation to buy and move on toward the river. The cliffs tower above us and views are beautiful as the sky clears. A rather unwanted side effect is much higher temperature than we anticipated based on the forecast and the sun is blazing down. We chill for an hour or so in the shade along the river, I even stick my toes in the water. It is cloudy from lots of fine silt but cool and refreshing.
Our hike back out of the canyon is slow with lots of stops to cool and hydrate. It is nearly more than the group can handle. We will not make this mistake again. Next day out on trails we will start earlier, dress cooler, and keep the walk 2 miles max. Now, we are home relaxing in the shade with a cool breeze at our backs and all is well. Grilled chicken and some pretty tasty broccoli salad make for a great refueling. I think that everyone will sleep well tonight.