Whew!

Darby Canyon trail to wind cave, 7 miles with 2024ft elevation change.  The temperature is in the 80s by the time we finish and the sun is blazing.  We are done for the day but glad to have made the trek and glad that we got a pretty early start.

Like most trails from this side of the Tetons, we access the higher slopes by following canyons cut by fast flowing creeks. Today, early in the walk, the trail takes us up the walls of the canyon well above the creek bed.  The views are lovely as we cross meadows interspersed with treed areas and open rocky outcroppings. We first hear the waterfall exiting the cave then spot the opening in the cliffs above us.  The last half mile or so is a steep mix of rock steps and tree root tangle that takes us to just over 8700 feet in elevation.  There is a bit of puffing but we make it.  Folks claim they scale the slope up to the entrance to walk then crawl to the back of the cave where the opening reduces to a couple feet in each direction.  It looks like today water would be running around our feet the whole time. We settle for the gurgle and splash of the falls and the lovely view from below.  We scan high meadows for wildlife both going and returning but none make an appearance.  Guess there are too many places to hide.  It is great to spot whatever is out there but it is even fun to look for them.

The night sky is phenomenal.  Countless stars with a broad sweep of the milky way.  Beautiful!

Ack, a planning miss

We decided, we are going to start with the gondola lift at Targhee and if we need a bigger long-view fix go for the trail.  The resort web page says gondola rides start at 10AM so we have a leisurely morning and head on out.   As we make the final climb of the drive up to the resort, we start seeing signs for pre-paid parking only at the top.  Hum, wonder what that’s about.  I know there is a music festival up here today but nothing said anything about no trail access.  Rats.  A young kid stationed at the parking entrance informs us that there is no public access today (maybe all weekend but he isn’t sure). The entire resort, meaning the entire mountain top, is open just to music festival attendees with prepaid tickets and prepaid parking and I know those tickets have been sold out for weeks.  Ack…  Back down, making alternate plans as we go.

We invoke our backup plan, a hike in Teton Canyon along the south fork of Teton Creek.   We set out along the creek through towering pines with a much lighter understory than other recent hikes.  It is cool and lovely.  There is a fair amount of traffic on the trail but Kent and I are alone on a stretch and we hear a loud huff.

Maybe 100ft to our right along the creek bank are two moose, a mature bull with a good start on a rack and a juvenile.  They browse with an eye on us for a bit before moving on when more hikers arrive.  We get a good look and some nice pictures.  We move on too. Pines give way to wide open mountain meadows backed by majestic cliffs, blanketed with wildflowers, and often cut through by a ribbon of willows lining the banks of smaller streams.  We find a perfectly placed butt rock and relax taking in the view. Kent muses that it seems a perfect moose spot and not 5 minutes later a cow moose emerges from the willows moving nervously and even challenging a pair of hikers who are on the trail fairly close.   She runs at them, not really charging but seemingly telling them not to get any closer then turns and collects up her young calf that has been hidden along the creek.  They both head upslope and disappear into the denser undercover.  All is well and it is a great encounter, for US.

We move on through one more lovely meadow and a lunch stop at the intersection with Devils Staircase trail before we reverse course for a nearly all downhill stroll back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

Amazingly Kent’s lens cover dropped somewhere near the far end of the trail is perched on a post awaiting our return at the trailhead.  Great walk, great views, wonderful wildlife viewing.  Maybe we were meant to take this hike today?

Heading home, right here in downtown Driggs we find the Corner Drug Soda Fountain.  The day just got even better.  Right inside the door we find a small old time counter manned by a cheerful soda jerk busily cleaning a fancy modern multi-head milkshake machine.  She directs us to a touchscreen order entry kiosk with, “isn’t that a great way to do that” (order) she says.  It spits out a printed order and we go back to old time soda fountain.  Methodically she pumps flavors, dips ice cream, blends and serves up first my Purple Monster (huckleberry shake with oreo blended in) then Kent’s chocolate malt.  It’s a fun place with a cool combination of old-time art of hand blended shakes and modern conveniences to make it all easier.  The ‘gal’ behind the counter really makes it all work.  My shake is delicious and Kent says the malt is as good as he has ever had. He reserves the right to continue sampling as he can to see if anyone can beat it.

Reconnaissance and sipping

We are off to check in with the Teton Basin Ranger’s office to pick out trails and cool places to see.  Enroute, we get our first peeks at Grand Teton peak rising above the closer ridge.  Once at the ranger station we get some tips, mostly confirming my initial trail picks but it is always nice to get their thoughts.  We do want his recommendation on a long-view trail to get up on the top of the western ridge of the Teton Range to see the namesake peaks from the west side.  He points us to Table Mountain for “great views but you have to work for it”; 12.5 miles round trip with 2500+ elevation change ending at over 10000 ft with a rock scramble at the top.  A great guy at the Teton Geotourism Center in Driggs ID suggests the ski gondola at Grand Targhee resort.  It will get us to 10000 feet with views and access to trails after we get up there.   Hmm, we are still weighing our options.

Stop two, Highpoint Cidery in Victor ID.  The address looks kind of funny, Lupine Lane Units D and E.  Sure enough, it is two units in a storage/light manufacturing complex.  One serves as the “place where the science happens” says the barkeep the other a rustic but pleasant tasting room.  I go for a flight of 4 selected from about 10 ciders starting from their driest to semi sweet plus one with a bit of ginger added.  Kent tries a local root beer and we share a build it yourself charcuterie board (their tasting license doesn’t allow them to serve food but can sell take-away snacks and give us a knife and board) with Tomme – an aged goat cheese and chorizo.  I walk away with a four pack each of the two driest, Nitro and Transplant.  Here’s to more lazy sipping hours!

A great wildlife day

We are out on Palisades Creek Trail.  The creek is roaring, we have had quite a bit of rain in the area the past week.  It is a bit muddy underfoot and we are grateful to have the benefit of bridges at the various crossings along the way.  Sometimes the water is right at our feet, others the trail is higher up slope along the bottom edge of soaring cliffs.  Our goal today is lower Palisades Lake where we settle in along the boulder strewn shore to watch for critters after spotting a grouse on the trail.  Chipmunks show up in mass begging for our lunch. Geese, common goldeneye and mallards are trailing their young around.  We are very surprised to first hear then spot pica busily gathering wildflowers and leaves for their den.  Previously, we have only seen them at much higher elevation.  This is moose territory too but none show their faces today.

 

 

On the way back down, I am on the lookout for the amazing American Dipper.  It’s a cool, robin sized bird that actually swims entirely underwater in fast flowing water and catches bugs.  There are many perfect looking spots in this creek and finally I spot one of the little guys resting on a root ball out in the stream.  Yeah!  Nine miles.  We’re glad to get the boots off.

 

 

We are home chilling after dinner.  The door is open.  Out of the corner of my eye I spot movement.  What?

Out the window

It is the hind legs of a young moose who is intently munching right outside the door.  We get lots of pictures.  Much of camp gets in on the watching but he/she is way more interested in eating than the people hanging around.  What an ending to this day!

Mail forwarding snaffu

So, our stop to pick up mail yesterday in Georgetown, ID didn’t work out so well.  It was not there and the postmaster couldn’t tell us where it was or when it might get there.  Fast forward, Kent called this morning and eureka, it is indeed there, just 145 miles back to pick it up.  That is how we are going to spend today!  Just out of camp we see two fawns scrambling to find Mom as we roll by.  It is cloudy with intermittent showers so not a great hiking day anyway and the drive back across the Caribou Mountains is lovely.  We grab lunch at Main Street Diner in Soda Springs and find “square” ice cream in Palisades, close enough to maybe try it again during our stay.  Grizzly paws is huckleberry ice cream with chocolate chunks.  Moose tracks sweet vanilla with caramel, chocolate and nuts.  All in all, not bad for an errand day!  Oh, we did get our mail.

Moving day

We have been at a rather remote, no-services site for 11 days and are heading for another similar situation for the next 2 weeks.  Moving is a bit of a circus: Kent slowly waddles the motorhome out the 10 miles of wash boarded, potholed forest route, we stop to pick up (Not) our forwarded mail, we have run out of propane so there is that stop, no dump station in either camp so a stop along the way for that, and I hit the grocery to restock our kitchen.  We even squeeze in a shower and Kent tops off tanks.  We need every drop to make it 2 weeks between fill and dump stops.  Now we are on our way.

We meet the road grader on the road into Falls campground.  Looks like the drive will be much smoother here and camp is only 2 miles from paved road.  It’s a tight fit in our site but we get situated and look forward to exploring.  Camp is right along the wide, braided Snake River.

Clear Creek

The trail follows the slope of Clear Creek up through a heavily forested ravine.  The sound of water tumbling across rocks is our near-constant companion.  My kind of trail!  We start with a creek crossing then move into heavy aspen and willow so thick and untamed that it is encroaching on the trail.  We don’t have any trouble following the path but the vegetation is wet and we are now too.  We break out the raincoats when a light rain moves in but continue to move up along the creek.  The rain stops as quickly as it began.  Aspens have thinned and we are surrounded by pines now.  Scat and animal tracks confirm that wildlife appreciates this area too.  It looks like we’re moving through the home of moose, elk, deer, bear, and probably fox.  We come upon scattered forest clearings where tall grasses are dotted with a rainbow of wildflower colors.  Woodland birds dart about rarely stopping long enough to even attempt identifying them. Kent does get a good look at this Western Tanager.  It is getting muddy and badly eroded making it hard on the ankles.  We turn back after 2 ¾ miles. It has been a good morning.

Thank you to the gentleman at the Montpelier District Ranger Station.  He recommended this hike as a foot trail only, quiet and through an area frequented by wildlife.

Raspberries

Huckleberries are the Utah State fruit but raspberries are the claim to fame for a nearby town, Garden City.  The annual Raspberry Festival is today and we’re going to be there.  The primary attraction, “The Best” raspberry shakes.  We pass through Paris and make another stop at Donut El Camino.  Our last visit the locals were all about the cinnamon rolls which were not yet out of the oven that day.  Today they are ready and they are huge, gooey, cinnamon-y and still warm from the oven.  Yum

On to the festival.  Turns out its mostly a giant craft market with a handful of food trucks.  There is entertainment but it’s not really to our liking.  We make a pass through and I am tempted at a couple booths with cool grand-daughter items.  Ultimately, I leave empty handed.  New to us, their midway is actually all inflatables: bounce houses, slides, a ninja warrior arena and similar.  Kids are having a great time.  One real miss, they don’t have the boldly advertised raspberry shakes.  Bummer.  Our solution, we go to the local burger place.  They have a thick, rich version that makes a great ending for the afternoon.

 

Touring the Blackfoot Valley

We are just on our way and spot a young bull elk near the tree line.  He’s a regal looking fellow even though the rack is still in velvet. What a great start to the day.

We head on.  Rolling green fields for as far as one can see splash up the distant mountain slopes, the color interrupted by the grey, green, black and rust of scattered rocky outcroppings.  This area was sculpted by volcanic activity.  An enormous basalt layer laid down long ago has been broken and bulged by subterranean lava flow and expansion.  The result is piles of rubble in some places, sunken depressions and smooth domes in others.  Years of erosion has made for fertile soil and it all somehow holds on to rainfall to create fantastic farmland.  Greens range from the bright new growth of planted grain through grey green of sagebrush to the deep green of pines on the mountainsides; all mottled and swirled together.  Today the shadows of thunderstorm driven clouds add another layer to the color scheme.  Blackfoot Reservoir lies in stark contrast to it all.

We go beyond the reservoir to Gray’s Lake NWR.  It is really a giant marsh with limited areas of open water and scattered islands of higher ground.  Today I am on the hunt for their largest claimed resident, moose.  There are sandhill cranes and many hawks plus Canada geese and a nice sampling of ducklings and baby grebes; but, no moose.

The rain that has been threatening all day catches us as we wrap things up and head home.

New Shoe

Kent is off to get the new tire.  I am working on a vacation countdown calendar to send to Willa and Hazel.  We are down to three weeks until they meet us in the Tetons.  We can’t wait.

The sheep are back, at least quite a few of them.  Kent spotted them scattered along our access road while out on his errand.