An overlook high on the bluffs above the valley with a great look at Hoodoos and a magnificent view of the meandering Bow River is an easy stroll from camp. We see our first elk contentedly grazing before we even get out of camp. We had to cross the road to keep our distance. Once in the open it is pretty windy but still nice to be out so we extend the walk out through a forested area. A doe and two fawns make an appearance. We put in about 3.7 miles our first full day. Time to chill in camp for the evening. A Coyote makes its way through the tall grass just beyond our site.
Mountains encircle Lake Minnewanka, beautiful. Grandpa has Willa in the carrier as we venture out Stewart Canyon trail. The hike begins high above the creek as it tumbles its way to the lake. We continue to a place where a side creek allows the kids to get down to the cold snow melt waters. Willa hangs out with Grandpa and Nana exploring the rocky streambed, snacking, and moving rocks, because they are there. This is a beautiful quiet place with the smell of pine along with the sight and gurgle of fast-moving water just the right distance away. Mike shoulders the load heading back to the lake. We are greeted by a VERY friendly golden mantled ground squirrel as we wrap up our lake time. It is early, we head into Banff to check out some shops and maybe find a nice café with street-side dining to relax. We stumble upon a puppet show put on by the National Park. It is all about stewardship but told through the life of a baby black bear who got separated from its Mom and ultimately reunited. Willa’s attention is alternately drawn to the puppets and the live ukulele player who stands nearby. It is well done and lots of fun. Everyone gets the munchies and we push Friday homemade Pizza night to Saturday and set out in search of a restaurant. It takes a bit of looking but we settle on Park Distillery. We find of lots of fun cocktails mixed with their own gin, vodka, and rye and sample a few. To our great surprise, they also have a pretty broad vegan menu….winner all around. It is a lovely end to a great day.
Despite a questionable forecast we pack up to head for Boom Lake. Next camping trip Willa will have her own pack, she tried Mom’s today but it’s a bit too much!
The trail includes a fair amount of uphill but not too taxing then opens up onto a beautiful alpine lake ringed by mountains with a large section of grey boulder, talus slope. Bright sun would have made the view perfect but it isn’t to shabby even on this grey cool day. We soak in the beauty, lunch, and relax until the clouds start to spit. Tracy bundles Willa up like a little cocoon and she naps against Mike’s back as we head back to the trailhead. Thunder in the distance and periods of pretty heavy rain urge us to make better time then our stroll out to the lake. We are glad for the warm dry car after 6.8-mile roundtrip.
Johnson Canyon trail is a signature hike for Banff park. They see a million visitors on this trail every year and we know it’ll be a zoo but we just have to see it. Our plan is to go on out to ink pots with the anticipation that crowds will thin out as the distance and difficulty increase. Even with a pretty early start we are turned away at the main lot but find parking just ¼ mile up the road. No problem…Willa is loaded up. Thanks for the ride Daddy Sherpa. Let’s go. It is beautiful…pretty crowded especially at falls overlooks but manageable. Crowds thin as we move above the top of the falls and we nearly have the trail to ourselves as we move toward the ink pots. There is a lot of uphill! Trees thin and our view opens up to the broad Johnson Creek upper canyon and the braided flow path of the creek. Winding paths and foot bridges crisscross between still pools where springs bubble up to form concentric rings in the silty bottoms, the ink pots. We relax, explore, and lunch before heading back. Willa put in some more walking miles, checked out wild flowers, and got close but not quite in the cold water. It is a full day, 8.7 miles round trip, but we are glad we included the quieter stretch out to the ink pots. Oh yeah, we spotted a grizzly bear on the drive out to the trailhead. Nice bonus.
The view from above. Today we take the Banff Gondola up Mt Sulfur. Wow. The ride is fun and the view fantastic and includes six different mountain ranges. We check out the open-air lounge, walk the peak trail, and sample café fare at a sunny table with a wonderful view. Ewe and baby bighorn sheep make a perfectly timed appearance so we get an up-close look. Back home, it is hammock time and a chance for a different view of camp; out the MH window.
The Icefields Parkway, magnificent views in route to The Icefields Discovery Center and tomorrow’s Columbia Icefields Experience and the Skywalk. Camp is not exactly a remote pristine natural setting; it is the paved lot at the Icefield Center. But the view is wonderful and at night when traffic and people noises die down we are within earshot of the cracking and crashing as pieces naturally cleave off the five glaciers that drape the mountains around us. Plus, it puts us close to the start point of our excursion onto the glacier tomorrow. We learn about Katabatic winds generated as ice-chilled air slides down off the glaciers and sweeps across the land, we now know that this icefield includes snow dome,
a hydrological apex, which feeds melt water to three oceans (Atlantic, Artic and Pacific), we see unrefutable proof that the earth is warming as evidenced by accelerating retreat of nearly all of the Canadian Rockies glaciers, including the Athabasca glacier we will walk on tomorrow.
Layer up then load up. First a bus then this huge crawler that moves across the steep slopes (up to 32 degrees) of moraine then out onto Athabasca Glacier. The tires are nearly as tall as a person and the ride is a bit rough but it is an exciting start to the journey. The day is a little grey and the cold wind is howling as we climb out onto the ice. Yikes, it is cold but we have lots of clothes on and head out to explore. Willa even has her felt shoe-mittens on! We adults slowly pick our way across the wet ice as it is slick underfoot but Willa is anxious to move. We get in some walking, lots of pictures, sample the glacier melt water, and admire the view for a bit. The cold sinks in as feet are wet and the unsure footing is a bit stressful. Time to head back to the warmth and relative safety of our huge tired creeper and the next part of the adventure, a skywalk 981 feet above the Sunwapta River nestled among the towering mountains.
A walkway leads toward a sweeping cantilevered arc over the river valley. It is lined with signage and a great audio tour that provide lots of info about geology, glaciers, wildlife, and climate. There are more fantastic views. We are out of the cold wind plus warmed by the now brightly shinning afternoon sun. We make it a mostly leisurely stroll with a bit of stress for Tracy. Heights are not really her thing. Come to think of it, she has been quite the trooper on that account this entire trip. Willa alternates napping and checking out the views. We dawdle on the drive off the icefield parkway. Willa rides with Grandpa and Nana so Mom and Dad can check out some overlooks and short trails. Our first surprise, a great look at a grizzly bear enjoying berries. We stop and watch as he munches contentedly. Later, big horn sheep make a showing along the roadside. Mike and Tracy check out Bridal Veil falls. We picnic at Bow Lake then head on to Cochrane as the kids return flight looms near.