A “captive” geyser

A neighbor in camp suggests we take the scenic route up through Caribou National Forest to Soda Springs to check out their geyser.  The road is gravel and graded dirt but not bad and the route is through rolling meadows mixed with thick stands of pine. It is ranch country.  Cattle are the main “wildlife” but we do see a golden eagle, a bald eagle, and the most unusual for us, a badger.  I guess they are pretty common but it is a rare sighting for us.

We get into to town just in time to see the geyser.  It erupts on the hour every hour for six minutes.  How can they be so precise?  It is actually an artesian spring that they have capped and put a solenoid valve on….tada, very predictable.  It has been a tourist attraction since in 1937 a couple of fellows looking to tap a spring for a swimming pool hit a gas pocket and blew out the spring.  It flooded the town a couple days then all agreed it had to be plugged.  Not long after, the “captive” geyser attraction was born.  It is cool.

There is another spring in town, Hooper Spring. It is naturally flowing mineral water that emerges into a protective stone spring house providing all who wish the opportunity to sample its healing waters.  We do.  It tastes salty but not bad.  The local thing seems to be to bring a water bottle and powdered flavoring and make your own soda.   Must be ok, lots of kids are sipping it.

Soda Springs was also a site for the Ground Observer Corp in the 1950s.  We checked out a reproduction of the little kiosk volunteers manned to watch the skies to alert of any foreign incursion into US airspace.  There is report of one false alarm that got a domestic flight grounded but no evidence of any actual threat to national security.  Still, it is an obviously proud civic memory.

Lunch at A&W then we take the shorter, highway route back home.

Darn, another equipment problem.  We are maybe two miles from camp and the low-pressure indicator comes on.  Just annoying at first but we watch the pressure drop like a rock.  Within a couple minutes it reads 0.  Gotta stop, right here along the gravel road.  We have to get the user’s manual out to figure out the jack and the spare tire hanger but all is done in 10 minutes and we are safely home.  There is a big jagged hole right in the middle of the tread.  Looks like a new tire in our near future.

Higher ground – and cooler air

Ok, back up into the mountains.  We are heading for Summit View campground in Caribou Targhee National Forest above Soda Springs ID.   Highs in the mid-80s and nights in the 50s, Ahhhh.  In Jensen and Vernal we pass all manner of dinosaur statue and sculpture.  Whimsical to true-to-life-fierce they stand watch at business, playgrounds, and city halls.  Beyond town, the route from the National Monument passes through more of the dinosaur valley with signs along the way reminding us what layer of rock we are passing through and who/what lived there at the time it was deposited.  Then we wind along Flaming Gorge, rugged with pines standing in contrast to the redrock.  Things level out and we glide though wide rolling valleys with grasslands as far as we can see either way.  We experience a Wyoming traffic jam.  Four cowboys on horseback moving a herd of cattle across the road….they didn’t all want to go that way!   We turn west on I80 and things get less scenic.  We are crossing broad alkali flats dotted with mines and wells and crisscrossed by railroad tracks and gravel roads carrying a steady flow of huge dump trucks.  There are signs warning of road closures while traffic waits for quarry dynamite explosions.  It seems like even this barren arid land deserves better treatment than this.  Probably not going to happen though, these minerals and compounds are used in a lot of stuff we consider essential.  Turning west and north into Idaho we first find lush irrigated farmland including brilliant yellow fields of flowering canola plants.  Soon we are in pine covered mountains and find our way to camp.  It is pretty remote with the nearest town with any sort of services over 25 miles away.  No cell service at all in camp.  It is cool and beautiful here.  Tomorrow, we head out to explore.

We had our first hick-up towing the pick-up.   The battery was dead when we unhooked.  No big problem, we just jumped it with the motorhome.  Still, it was odd.  We found no obvious reason for the problem.

Dinosaurs

Today we head for Dinosaur National Monument, the Utah side, home of the Quarry Exhibit Hall.  We pass through miles of sage brush plain and make a steep switchback climb up a lush green valley then across Douglas Pass.  This north west corner of Colorado and even more so the neighboring Utah is cool terrain.  Enormous geologic uplift has tilted and deformed layer upon layer of sedimentary rock exposing bands of color cut through by ridges of sandstone.  Maybe not exactly beautiful but certainly amazing.

This end of the monument is all about dino bones.  Some 149 million years ago, a raging river carried and buried bones of at least 10 species of dinosaurs in this one valley.   It is the site of a huge dig that began in 1908.  Like at most digs, lots of bones have been removed and sent to various museums.  The cool thing here, the on-site exhibit is a section of the dig.  A vertical wall of earth with 1500 dinosaur bones all excavated to expose them but left in place, exactly as they were deposited millions of years ago.  One section of the wall still contains a nearly complete skeleton of a Camarasaurus, one of those long necked, long tailed planteaters. It is cool to try to spot all the pieces like a giant puzzle.  Plus, we get to touch actual dino bones.  Very cool.  Check it out.

We make a quick stop to check out pictographs and petroglyphs but save exploration of the rest of the monument for another, cooler time.  There is lots more to see besides dino bones.

We are spending the night in Green River campground here on the Monument.  Most of the sites are among majestic cottonwoods along the river bank. Late in the day clouds are building.  We can see sheets of rain reaching for the ground on nearby mountains along with flashes of lightning.  Occasionally a light sprinkle makes it to the ground here.  It is amazing to watch.  It reminds me of watching storms develop and approach in Nebraska when I was a kid. I still love it.  Just about dark a mule deer browses its way past our site between us and the river.  This is a dark sky park but it’s a bright half-moon and a there are still a few scattered clouds.  It is a beautiful night but too much light to find the Milky Way.  Another time.

On to the western slope

From atop the mesa we saw the Grand Valley of the Colorado River.  Today we head into the valley to check out The Colorado National Monument and all that the Grand Junction area has to offer.  The forecast is for blistering heat, triple digits most days, so we know exploring is going to have to happen early in the day.  I get a C in geography today.  I had to look up why it is called the western slope. Dah, the western side of the Continental Divide. Not to be confused with the eastern side that they call The Front Range.  Ok.

We settle in at Saddlehorn campground near the highest elevations of the monument.  It is a nice view over the valley but not high enough to get much of a break from the mid-day heat.  We check out the visitor center and make an initial pass along Rim Rock Drive through what is a small version of the big red-rock Utah parks.  There are colossal and intricate monoliths, windows and towering cliffs.  The route takes us down into the valley.  We have been having a hankering for Colorado beef so we head for a local favorite, Cattleman’s Bar and Grill in nearby Loma.  Turns out it is actually at the cattle auction barn….kind of a rustic setting but pleasant and welcoming.  We go for steak of course, Kent a sirloin and I prime rib.  Both are seasoned nicely and perfectly prepared as ordered.  Kent’s is actually more tender but mine is quite good as well.  I have to try the peach cobbler (Palisades is right here and they are known for excellent peaches).  Glad I tried it, a bit cakier than I expected but delicious. We leave with a giant doggie bag, portions are huge. We have a bit of excitement on the way home.  A band of big horn sheep appears in the roadway just at the exit of one of the rock tunnels on Rim rock Drive.  They cross and seemingly fly up a nearly vertical cut to the flatland above the road.  What a great way to end the day.

Collared Lizard

It’s 5:30AM, a beautiful, cool morning.  A quick breakfast and we are at the Lower Monument Canyon trailhead by 6:30. Combining Lower Monument with Wedding Canyon trail we make a 5-mile loop into the central canyon to the foot of Independence Monument.  It is a bit of a climb passing red rock, pinion pine and juniper.  Flycatchers and black throated sparrows flit and chip around us.  An amazingly acrobatic swift evades repeated swoops of a pursuing hawk high above the cliff tops.  Near the half way mark, oncoming hikers let us know that there are big horn sheep in the valley just ahead. Wonderful.  Around the next turn we find first a band of ewes and young then spot an older male with impressive horns.  Across the trail a regal looking old fellow sits quietly along with a ewe and two young.  They all watch cautiously but continue to munch and mill around the area.  We move on leaving them to find their site to bed down for the heat of the day.  Beyond Independence Monument we spot a ewe and one lamb.  Great walk.  It’s 90 by the time we leave the trail around 10:30. We are glad we got an early start.Collared Lizard

I’ve been planning a stop at the Dream Café.  It is a local bakery in town and not far out of our way.  They claim to have the biggest, best cinnamon rolls in town and we feel like we earned one.  We end up actually having brunch there and have to take the cinnamon roll home in a doggie bag.  We hang out in camp for the rest of the afternoon and evening. I take in the ranger program, The symphony of the Monument.  It is a fun talk about the significance of soundscapes and the importance of protecting them as well as the visual landscapes of parks.

Next, a day in town.  We sleep in then head for a local candy shop, Enstrom’s.  Their claim to fame is Almond Toffee and it is fantastic.  We hang out watching them make candy cooking it in big copper pots, pouring it to cool on a refrigerated table, smoothing, coating with chocolate and then with ground almonds.  Teams of two work at four tables along with another 3 or so floating among them to support measuring, cleaning and charging the copper pots.  All synchronized.  They make a lot of toffee.  I sample the toffee and we both sample store made ice cream.  Now it is time for errands: haircuts and laundry.  We finish up in time to spend the rest of the hot afternoon at a movie, Indiana Jones.  It took me a beat just to figure out how to buy tickets.  It’s all touch screen now and most are set up just to scan the prebought ticket on one’s phone.  I get to the right touchscreen and find the show, choose two tickets then get a seating chart.  Did I want to upgrade my seats?  Geeze, I just want to see a movie.  I get it figured out and we find our seats…not sure there could be a bad one or one to pay a premium for in this small theater.  But hey, we are happy with ours. The movie is really just a giant rehash of all the best chase and fight scenes from past Indiana Jones movies.  The plot is pretty lame and predictable; but, for Indiana Jones fans it was a fun couple hours.

Our last day here is very laid back.  My one objective, find a fruit market and get some of those highly acclaimed Palisades peaches.  The earliest varieties are in season and we find a few ripe and ready to eat at a little family market not far from camp.  We select a couple vine ripe tomatoes as well and pay in the honor jar.  While we are out, we stock up on groceries.  Our next week or so is back out in the boonies in the National Forest.  It’s hot when we get home.  We kick on the generator and the ac for a couple hours for a lazy afternoon.

Onto the Mesa

Today it’s up onto the Mesa.  We start out early hoping to optimize wildlife sighting and to avoid the thunderstorms forecast nearly every afternoon. Once on top of the mesa we drive out to Observation Point.  A mostly well-maintained gravel road crosses through mixed forest and open meadows. Wildflowers are spectacular with predominant colors changing area by area based on moisture, shade, wind and I don’t know what else.  Wild life viewing continues to be disappointing.  We see cattle, they have grazed livestock here for decades, and very tame chipmunks at the observation point.  Below us from the point we look out across a wide arid valley sided by basalt capped cliffs and eroded slopes painted muted rust and tan.  Smooth mounds are scattered on the valley floor, oddly placed and shaped.  All this the product of eons of erosion as the Gunnison and Colorado Rivers come together here.  Now, man has made our own mark as the city of Grand Junction and local agriculture with its associated irrigation have created a sprawling green-grey oasis.  I wonder what it looked like when only the ribbons of green of the two rivers traced along the valley floor?  Heading back from the point we hike the Raber Cow Cabins trail thigh high through the flowering meadows and among cabins dating from early ranching days.  I could look at this view every morning.

 

 

 

Back in the lake section we walk the banks of Mesa Lake.  It is lovely, mostly shaded and cool.  We had been warned about mosquitoes and we find them on this trail.   Even with plenty of repellant they find us if we dally too long or disturb the brush.  Fishing is a big thing up here and we see quite a few rainbow trout in the clear lake.

Tootsie Pop pain

Thankfully its only figurative pain but still…what a pain.  Kent pulled the crown off of a molar with the sticky chewy center of a tootsie pop.  The tooth already has a root canal so no physical pain but he is on the hunt for a dentist who can get him in and take care of it before he breaks the tooth or something.  Just two calls in and he is set with Ruby Canyon Dental in Grand Junction.  It’s a nice office with friendly staff and they soon find that yes, the tooth is still sound and they can do a same day crown replacement for just $1500.  We are wrapping our heads around the dollar amount while musing over the xrays they have up when we learn exactly how crowns are done.  Shazam, that little piece Kent saved the other day isn’t a broken piece, it’s the whole thing AND if it is not damaged, they can just glue it back in place. For about $250.  Well, we didn’t throw it away but its back at the motorhome an hour away.  There is a flurry of discussion among dentist and staff ending with the decision to reconvene tomorrow with the loose crown and make the call, new cap or reglue.  The short story, $275 and Kent is good to go.  The old crown is back in place.

Grand Mesa Colorado

Billed as ‘The largest’ or ‘One of the largest’ flat top mountains in the world, it is high at 10,000+ feet and it is huge.  It is also tree covered and dotted with hundreds of lakes, quite different from the vast high desert and the sage brush ranges flanking it on three of its sides far below.  We approach from the south up Colorado 65 on a steep climb of 6000 feet above the plains with our first stop the visitor center in Cedaredge then on to camp at Vega State Park. Kent is glad to just be pulling the little truck rather than the big trailer.  Once we reach the top, I am on wildlife watch.  They reintroduced moose here about 25 years ago and the herd now numbers in the 400s.  They also claim mule deer, elk, black bear and marmots.  It is wildflower season too so always something for me to watch for while Kent watches the road.  The route zig-zags between lakes in the center of the mesa.  It is a beautiful ride with amazing views.  Stops to explore further will wait until we safely settle the motorhome and are back out and about in the truck.

Now I’m a bit bummed.  We, more specifically I, completely misjudged the location of our camp.  Vega is all the way back down off the north side of the mesa and another 20 miles across the hot arid landscape. It is in the mid 90s when we get here.   Its just not what I’ve been imagining.  I thought I’d wake up early the next few mornings in the cool wilderness camp and just step out to watch for wildlife and relax in the evenings in that same setting.  Instead, it’ll be a long arduous drive we will make maybe once or twice.  Like I said, not what I have been envisioning.  On the bright side, our site is on the sunflower blanketed shore of a lovely little lake and we see deer, a falcon, and osprey plus a number of other familiar birds.

A trail closer to home

A trail listed as hiking and equestrian only leaves from the back of camp and passes through wilderness area for its entire length.  That’s our plan for today.  Just into the hike the trail turns to cross Lottis Creek, no bridge.  The water is high and fast, too much to wade through in boots.  We detour 1/4 mile or so up-creek to find a log large enough that we brave crossing.   We return to the trail to weave through thick forest along the creek path. We spot a deer and numerous scat piles that look like elk might at least pass through.  A section of the creek looks like perfect beaver and moose habitat. We dawdle and check it out; but, no moose.  No beaver.  We spot a perfect marmot rock pile and spend our break scanning for movement.  Nope, no marmots.  We turn back about 3 miles out the trail and trace our steps back to camp. The trail follows a slight slope so not too strenuous; add the sound of the creek tumbling across boulders on its way downhill and the cool forest shade to make for a nice morning walk.

We have been pleasantly surprised that camp has not been over-run by off road vehicles

Wildflowers here we come

After a quiet night, we are on a mission to check out the wildflowers.  This weekend is actually the last couple days of the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival and there have been many reports of how amazing they are this year.  We choose one of the festival recommended trails, Snodgrass Mountain, head out pretty early for the drive to put us on the trail by 8:30 or so.  The area is amazing with entire hillsides painted mostly shades of yellow but dotted with purple, blue, red, white and orange.  Snow capped peaks ring the valley along with the namesake crested butte.  Wow!  We hike about 4 miles through meadows and treed terrain.  What a great time of year to be here.

North from town a driving loop reaches further up into the mountains.  Kent’s up for a bit more challenging driving, this is NOT all paved.  We start out high above then along the East River and the lush green valley that envelopes it.  I spot an elk.  Cool.  Wildflowers are still around but the show now is the surrounding mountains.  We get lots of pictures and find a spectacular lunch spot. The pictures don’t do it justice.  Two marmots cavort on the rock pile providing lunchtime entertainment.  We won’t be finishing the loop drive.  We meet a Crested Butte bound driver who reports that some earlier driver overestimated his skills and is stuck in remaining snow pack.  They have blocked the road and no one is getting through.  So, home we go.

Crested Butte, the wildflower capital of Colorado

We head out today for the first of two stops to explore the high mesas of central/western Colorado. The area is sparsely populated and nearly all designated as National Forest.  We make our way along US50 west again, in the motorhome this time, to cross Monarch Pass and on to Gunnison where we turn on to county and forest routes.  The last 17 miles climb Taylor Canyon sharing the tree-shrouded route with the Taylor River.  We settle in then set out to explore on up the canyon to Cottonwood Pass.

Turns out I missed a detail or two in my planning research. First, this entire national forest corridor has been specifically designed for off road vehicle recreation.  Everything from dirt bikes to quads to full size off-road vehicles can run these trails.  The word to hikers, watch out!  Had I known, we likely would have steered clear.  But, here we are.  Second, lots of online sources describe the road to Cottonwood Pass as rugged, high clearance, 4-wheel drive only.  Not!  The entire distance is now paved.

On up to Cottonwood Pass. There are switchbacks and hairpin curves and quite a bit of traffic but the drive is lovely and pretty easy.  We are in the Sawatch Range and the pass is at 12,119 ft elevation, the highest paved crossing of the continental divide in the US.  We hike up another couple hundred feet to an amazing view on a trail that winds through a wildflower covered alpine meadow.  It is beautiful in every direction. Trails go on from here but we hang for a bit then head back down then to camp for a quiet evening. The host says there was a bear in camp last week.  I’ll believe it when I see it!