Threatening clouds give way to beautiful clear blue skies. A breeze keeps the formidable clouds of mosquitoes at bay. Five of us bump along some 32 miles of gravel road that wind through sections of the refuge normally beyond the reach of visitors. Lakes. Inky black silhouettes of charred trees against bright green of new post-burn growth. Perfectly shaped canopies of lone live oak trees. Fresh water marsh rich with wildlife- Herons: Black Crowned, Little Blue and Great Blue. Egrets. Seriously big alligators sunning, swimming and one moving cross country wearing a spectacular mantle of pond scum. Very cool to watch. Whoopers keep their distance but we do get a peek or two. An afternoon of great company and a chance to enjoy the amazing undisturbed space.