Smack!

There is a slight wind ripple on the water so the furry head cutting along the surface might be an otter or a beaver. I can’t tell for sure until he dives and punctuates the descent with a loud smack of his tail.  That’s a beaver alright and he doesn’t seem real happy with our being this close.

We are out in the kayaks on the Little Pic River that runs right along the campground in route to Superior.  We cross under the rail and road bridges so traffic noise nags us a little but there are lovely quiet spells when bird song is all we can hear.  Current is slow and winds light so paddling is easy, until we get to the gravel bars about 2 miles up river.  After a little creative zigzagging we have to call it quits and head back down river.  Just beyond the camp launch we can stick our noses out onto Lake Superior but we don’t go far.  Even today’s light winds build considerable swells on this end of the lake.  We pull the kayaks and head out for some land based exploration.

Winnie the Pooh

Of course we had to stop in White River to visit the statue of Winnie the Pooh and of course, same as last time we came through here, it is raining.  We stop for a quick picture anyway; complete with umbrella just like last time.  We hit the Robin’s Donut Shop (we were not overly impressed with their blueberry fritter) and move on.  Our destination is Neys Provincial Park near Marathon along the Lake Superior north shore.  It drips on us off and on all the way to the Park but by the time we check in the sky is a clear blue and only the occasional cotton-white puffy cloud floats by.  It is a beautiful evening for a campfire and sunset over the lake.  Tomorrow we will go exploring.

A bright beautiful morning

We are heading out to explore Lake Superior Provincial Park.  First stop, a short but adrenaline pumping walk at waters edge below high cliffs to see ancient pictographs.  There are warning signs everywhere but we are not deterred and continue to clamber over fallen rock along towering cliffs toward the shore.  Signs mark the spot where we are to find the ancient artwork.  Chains and ropes are affixed along the lower trail to help traverse the slanted, smoothly eroded rock; and to use to pull yourself back up if you happen to fall into the lake just below.  We pick our way along successfully and find two pretty cool pictographs.  I’d recommend this walk but must say the actual cliff art is a bit anticlimactic compared to the journey out there.  If you go, don’t forget to turn around and look at the lake view.  It is fantastic even with a bit of mist as there was today.

 

Three of the four miles of Orphan Lake trail involve cautious foot placement to navigate among tree roots and protruding rocks.  Add to that nearly constant steep descent or ascent.  It is really pretty messy underfoot but there are some great treasures along the way.  From atop huge granite outcroppings we get a bird’s eye view of inky dark Orphan Lake with its granite and lush green shoreline and of vast Lake Superior shrouded in mist and dotted with rocky islands.  About midway the trail drops down to a colorful cobblestone strewn section of Lake Superior shore.  Today it is calm but the many rounded stones provide proof that the waves pound here often.  We move back into the quiet of the vegetation-muted forest trail.  Before long the air is filled with the sound of rushing water as

 

 

Baldhead River makes its final spectacular descent to the lake.  We wind our way back to the silent shores of Orphan Lake and pause a few to take in the scene of still reflections and swirling mist.  Nice.

 

Back to the car and we head home to put our feet up. It was a good outing.

Out and about near Wawa

The Magpie and Michipicoten Rivers fall 100s of feet in their final approach to Lake Superior.  Despite being harnessed for power hundreds of years ago, we checked out two beautiful falls that remain.  We meandered on just a few more kilometers to the Lake Superior shoreline where rugged, boulder strewn, and cliffy coast is interspersed with areas of fine sand beach.  We spent the day taking in the sights.  I waded in Superior …my toes nearly turned blue.

Travels to the trailheads took us  through huge wild blueberry fields. Too bad they are all posted “no picking”.  Sand hill cranes appear to have ignored those signs.  They are happily munching away on those tasty morsels.

 

We got our fix today.

If you are in Canada ya gotta have Tim Horton’s

 

That is one BIG goose

We are greeted by the familiar giant goose that stands sentry just off 101 & 17 on the south end of Wawa, Ontario.  The town is, as always it seems, raising money for the bird’s repair and maintenance.  The one currently gracing the visitor center grounds is actually Goose II.  The original 1960 bird now proudly perches at Young’s Mercantile (a fun stop of its own) and there are several other somewhat smaller versions scattered around town.

 

Dinner comes from Krazy Fries food truck. We sample their version of poutine with genuine Quebec cheese curds.  It is delicious and about the same as the last one we sampled.  It is odd how little hole in the wall places 100s of miles apart can duplicate that taste.  Exactly what kind of gravy is this, I ponder?  A later trip to the grocery may have answered that burning question; they sell poutine sauce (chicken gravy).  I think it was better with the mystery.

Wakami Lake

It is time to leave Wakami Lake.  What a bummer.  It is raining which is never a good time to pull the boat, break camp and load up for travel.  This place brings back special memories and remains a very beautiful place.  It is soo quiet here.  The main interruptions are the 3-4 daily polar transcontinental flights and the occasional bush plane taking someone to a fly-in fishing lake.  The loon count probably exceeded 25 this year up from only an occasional sighting 40 years ago.  Many bald eagle sightings.  Good job Ontario!  We didn’t hear the wolves this year or see Northern lights, maybe next time.  There was a bear around camp according to postings, although we didn’t see it.  The mileage on the depth-finder/gps indicates we traveled 150 miles by boat during our stay.  We avoided the big rainstorms through some quick trips back to camp.  Fishing was good, catching could have been better.  Wakami is a special place, experience it if you can.

Really!

It is raining again this morning and looks like it’s an all day affair.

 

We took the opportunity to cruise through camp and confirm best sites for future stays.

 

First choice: 58, the site we are in this year.  We get enough sunlight for the solar panels and haven’t needed the generator in the two weeks (except for the microwave for baked potatoes one night).  The boat beaching spot is nice, not too rocky.  There is nice privacy and a reasonable lake view from the site frontage.  The walk to the dock (Browns Bay slip 4 or 2nd choice 8) is not too long.  Pit toilets are close enough but not too close.  An aside, we made it two full weeks (including one shower) without breaking camp to dump or take on fresh water.

 

Second: #5 in Birch Hill.  Nice view (need to double check solar panel line of sight).  #6 and #8 over here could work too.  Use dock slips 2, 3, or 4

 

Third: 61, 64, 65 all nice level and big enough with good solar panel exposure. They have more traffic past them and not as much privacy as compared to 58.  ok boat beaching, pit toilet location, and proximity to the dock.

 

Site #30 – nice site, lake view, ok solar access, good boat beaching. Long walk to the dock.

 

Backup sites: 45 & 47 2nd -nice and level but no view.  54-private and nicely wooded (might be buggy?) and level but no view.

Got him

A very brazen mouse has been running around the motorhome from cab to back bedroom even in the day time. It gives me the creeps and I had a terrible time getting to sleep last night.  I was sure that he’d scurry across my pillow.  No more worries; Kent found him in the trap this morning.  Sorry little fellow but you just can not live here!

Off to a cold windy start

It is gray, windy and damp. Not a great start for a day out on the lake.  Fishing starts off slowly too.  I began to think that perhaps we should have slept in.  Things improved though.  I felt a tiny tap on my line.  A feisty walleye fishlet, maybe 3” long tried to eat my minnow that was easily half his size.  He got a hold of it well enough that I actually pulled the walleye up into the boat.  Even that small, he had fierce looking teeth!  Fortunately for him he didn’t get hooked so was easily returned to swim another day.   The sun peeked through and the day warmed a bit.  All in all we caught and threw back three northern and one almost-big-enough-to-keep walleye.  We spotted the huge eagles nest with its current occupants close by.  Loons, ducks and mergansers kept us company.

Even a “bad” day on the lake is a pretty good way to spend some time.

 

More hints from the neighbor on the best lures for catching walleye. Kent is fashioning some that meet the criteria as we speak.  We will try them out tomorrow.