Wettest hike ever!

The weather forecast doesn’t look great but today is the only day we can get the water taxi to Beausoleil Island of the Georgian Bay Island National Park.  We pack water, snacks, fleece, windbreakers and rain slickers and head for the dock.  Our Captain greets us in great spirits with a forecast of mid-afternoon showers…along with the comment they had a “torrential downpour” out there yesterday.

Eleven in total pile onto the flat bottom, open sided shuttle boat and don our fashionable bright orange life jackets. A quick nature talk forewarns of Massassauga rattlesnakes, a black bear sow and twin cubs, and a mama moose and her little one.  No problem.  Hope we see one or all.   The motor jumps to life and off we go.  There is a light mist that stings against my skin when we are at speed.  Fifteen minutes and we are climbing off the boat.

We are at the North end of the island.   Magnificent boulders of the Canadian Shield leap out of the water.  Lichen and moss cover the pink and gray shapes.  Trees and shrubs erupt from cracks and any where else they can find a toehold.  Visibility clears as we start around the Cambrian trail where there are lovely vistas of the surrounding islands of the archipelago.  We drop into an area of low brush.  Mosquitoes immediately swarm us buzzing everywhere.  Yuck.  Oh yeah, and it starts to sprinkle.  We walk on through the lush undergrowth (among its annoying residents) protected from the intensifying rain by the thick canopy.  The DEET comes out, ok that’s better.  Boardwalks protect the marshiest ground.  It is soggy but lovely.

The rain lets up as we begin to climb back up onto the enormous rocks nearing Fairy trailhead and the route toward Fairy Lake.  Sprinkles start and stop as we move along the gigantic rock outcroppings.  This is ancient metamorphic rock that bears the scars of glaciers that have moved across it.  Pretty amazing.

The rain stops. From our rocky perch we see Fairy Lake, still and silent; ringed by the contrasting colors of rock and vegetation that also reflect in the surface.  A beaver hut rises above the surface.  Our reverie is short lived as droplets disturb the surface.  Rain intensifies and we look for shelter, Kent one way and I the other.  I hug close to the trunk of a mighty pine and appreciate the protection of it’s boughs as the rain falls in sheets.  The rain eases and we both emerge to head on down the trail.  This walk along Fairly Lake is renowned as one of the prettiest on the island.  Looks lovely to me.  Sprinkles start and stop as we pick our way through puddles, squishy moss, and rising water back toward the pick-up point taking a little time to enjoy the peace and beauty along the way.  A Great Blue and a Loon family make appearances.

Our taxi arrives and we are on our way back home. A bit of sunshine would have made this place easier to enjoy but I’m glad we didn’t miss the opportunity to see it even in the pouring rain.

There is hardwood forest in Florida

Not much any more but more than I anticipated. I think marsh and beach when I think Florida but along the higher limestone outcroppings of the center spine we have found a real forest-feeling forest in the San Felasco Hammock Preserve.  The heavy scent of fallen oak leaves fills the air.  Leaves crunch under our feet.  The sound of birds chattering in the canopy floats down and dozens of cardinals dart around us.  We spot the familiar white flag of white tailed deer reacting to our intrusion.  Hawks circle and call above.  A rather large, black looking snake slices across the trail just ahead of us.  Unique to this sandy floored forest, we come across gopher tortoise borrows.  They have actually been dutifully marked off with bright orange tape by the power line workers who have been directed to protect this endangered species.  Another rare find, swallow tailed kites, perched.  They occupy only a few areas in the US and are nearly always seen on the wing when the eye is drawn to their amazing acrobatic flight.  We enjoyed the walk but it reinforced our thinking that this is not the place to visit in the summer.  It reached 85F this fine Spring day with what is only modest humidity for here and I thought I was going to melt.

Bad Hat!

A long utilized accessory made another attempt at freedom. In March 2011, I found a hat along the road in Joshua Tree National Park.  There was no way to find the owner so it was adopted.  BadHatfenceComp_5468Since that time it has sought freedom along a trail in Delaware Water Gap NP when it stayed on a rock while we continued along the trail.  Once it absence was noted I doubled back to find it being washed in a creek by a potential foster parent who returned it.  Later in Ontario it stayed on a log after a break and was homeless for 30 minutes until retrieved.  This week it stayed on a rock after a hiking break and was homeless for a couple of hours until we returned along the trail to give it a short day of hiking.  Over the years it has faded and earned some battle scars, the most notable a hole delivered by Brian and Johnna’s dog Sara when it leapt to freedom while both hands were busy painting.  Those battle scars may explain this week’s long freedom while being bypassed by many hikers.  It is back home and enjoyed the trails in Craters of the Moon National Monument today.

Bench Lakes hike above Redfish Lake

Wear and tear tells us that this is a high traffic trail sometimes but not this morning. We gain a bit of elevation then walk the ridge with great views of Redfish and Sawtooth Mountains.  We pause as a deer watches us and munches then watches us again before veering off the trail and into the pines.

A final set of steep hot switchbacks brings us to the first forest encircled lake. Mountain peaks reflect in the still surface.  All is silent and a duck creates smooth ripples as it glides across the surface.

We bushwack our way to lake number two,BenchLake2Comp_5283 since we didn’t’ see that the trail actually skirted the lake on the other side. We are rewarded with another pool.  We notice a family camp near the shore but all is peacefully silent.  Then we hear it, “Mom, Dad.  Mom, Dad.  There are people here.”  Guess they had had the place all to themselves up til we showed up.  We find a seat on a fallen log near the waterline and stay for a few.  We  agree that we could probably enjoy some time here, especially those few evening and overnight hours when even just a few miles out one can feel that they are the only people on earth.

It is noon time and the midmorning hikers are arriving so we bid our peaceful perch farewell and head down to the beach at Redfish Lake for a dip.  It doesn’t take long to cool off then not long to warm up as the lake is pretty cold but sun toasty warm.

RedfishLakeSunsetComp_5318

Back at camp the smoke is rolling in again. We head back to the Sawtooth view across Redfish Lake to check out the sunset.

Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness

It is hard to roll out of bed when it is 37F but the forecast is for the high 80s by afternoon so we want to stick with our planned early start. A short drive that includes a quick stop at the Bakery (one blueberry scone and a cinnamon roll plus a chock full of good stuff cookie for the trail) brings us to the trailhead.  We don fleece and wind breakers and set off.

Bare charred pines line the trail as we pass through a burn area. At first it is a bit depressing but the sun rises to peak over the ridge above us and shadows begin to play across the hillside.  Clusters of wildflowers accent the grey scene.  First we hear then come alongside the trail name sake, Marsh Creek.   The feel of cool air off the water and rolling down the cliffs alternates with the toasty warm of the brilliant morning sun.  Before long we strip first the fleece then the jackets.

Along the creek we spot anFrankChurchComp_5193 osprey and a mama merganser and her one little chick. The trail clings to talus cliff sides where pica and marmots make appearances.  All day deer tracks way outnumber boot tracks at our feet.  We meet no one on the trail until we began our return trek and encountered only one occupied wilderness campsite. It is good to know that we can get out into the wild a bit even on a day hike.

Our destination today; the confluence of Marsh Creek and Bear Creek Headwaters Mid Fork Salmon RiverComp_5199that is the birth of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. From a perch high above the creeks the view is beautiful.  There is an amazing aqua blue2016 0725 Big Hole Headwaters Middle Fork Salmon RComp _5213 pool so tempting that we just have to clamber down to check it out.  There is no one else around.   I wade to my knees but have to keep getting out to warm my numbing toes. Kent is a bit braver, he goes for a dip.  Good for him.  We hang out and have lunch and just soak it all in.

It is hot now. The hike out is filled with new smells as the air rises up the creek banks and lifts the forest smells with it.  We take breaks in the shade and ease our way back to civilization.  Along the creek I notice quiet sections where the water slips among the rocks as well as the roaring turns and leaps over boulders.

It has been a wonderful hike.

Kootenai NWR and Copper Creek Falls

You know, wildlife refuges are our thing. We pile in the car and head for Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge just north of here in Idaho.  MyrtleCreekFallsComp _4560We check out the trail to Myrtle Creek Falls; it is up hill of course as seems the case for nearly all waterfall trails.  The scent of pine is in the air and the burble of the creek is with us all the way.  Trailside placards tell the story of Orville the Moose and his loose antlers.  It is a cute children’s story written by a local.  The pages are perfectly spaced out along the trail to provide an excuse to stop and catch our breath on the way up.

Back down and on to the driving tour we see many of the usual suspects: deer, Canada geese, mallards, grebes, red winged blackbirds, even pelicans.  Then the big prize,MooseCropComp_4583 Johnna spots a cow moose munching away in a pond.  It isn’t an up close look but clearly identifiable.  That was the highlight I think.

 

CopperCreekWaterfallCompWe got a recommendation to check out 80 foot high Copper Creek Falls up 95 just 1 mile from the Canada border.  It involved a short hike too but was certainly worth it.  This is bear country and we sort of hoped to see one…sort of, maybe?  That didn’t happen and it spit a bit of rain but it was still a great walk.

 

Heading back south we took a short detour so Johnna could check off Montana as well as Idaho as states visited today.

 

Our peanut butter sandwiches are wearing off. It is Sunday evening so after a bit of looking and a couple false starts we settle on dinner at ZIPS.  It is a fast food place with a really broad menu.  It was a first for all of us and we had halibut fish and chips, a fish sandwich, a papa burger of some kind and chicken strips.  It wasn’t spectacular or gourmet but everyone seemed satisfied with their choice. The milk shakes received very good reviews by all.

A perfect, beautiful clear day

We are heading for the Park Butte trail in Mt Baker Wilderness. A doe and twin fawns appear as we wind up gravel forest roads. We had been told that it is a busy trail but were still surprised to see the trailhead lot quite full.  No problem, it’s a big wilderness.  We were overtaken by quite a few hikers.  They all seem to be in a great hurry.  Not us.  The trail starts in high meadow where the heather blanketing the ground is covered with purple blooms.  It steepens and switchbacks through forest.  We cross a wide swatch of glacier moraine and a bridge over a beautiful braided river that is steely grey with the glacier flour it carries.  Soon we encounter patches of snow.  Some mud of course given all the melt and rain.  Now more snow.  At about 2 ½ miles and about 1500 feet in elevation gain we are on slushy, messy snow pack.  Ick.  This is hard work.  We wear out before we reach Mt Baker Doc_4133the lookout tower at trails end.  It would have been another mile or so on an unmarked trail on snow. We do make it to the start of the climbers trail onto Mt Baker and we choose to check out the fantastic view for a bit then head back down.

 

A bit of advice.

Don’t stick hot tired feet in a frigid glacier stream. Curled toes_4118Yikes.  That water was ice mere hours ago.  Three toes cramped into the shape of hawk talons.  Not good. They recovered quickly with a bit of warming in the sun.

 

Very coolRed Breasted Sapsucker Comp_4074

Red breasted sapsuckers love this damp thick forest

Sculpted by ice age floods

Can geologists really know all this just by looking across this landscape? For thousands of years, layer after layer of slow moving lava spread out over great plains.  As it cooled it contracted and fractured creating vast expanses of columnar basalt.  Icefields expanded covering the region grinding channels and blocking rivers. Colossal Lake Missoula formed behind ice dams.  Ice dams broke and flood waters raged.  Ice advanced.  Lakes refilled.  Ice dams broke and flood waters raged.

Each time, Wallula GapWallula Gap Comp_3263 was the restriction that held back a wall of water some 1250ft high and like a nozzle it generated a powerful stream that eroded enormous basins and flow streams in the basalt fields.

The Columbia River flows through that gap now.  We hiked to the top of its craggy cliffs for a pretty fantastic view of this handiwork.

Last place for bighorn

We hiked the high cliff edges of Thousand Creek Gorge. It looks like good sheep habitat but not today. Still a great walk.
An exotic looking game bird, the Chukar,

Chukar

Chukar

makes a noisy, flashy showing. They move from highest rock to highest rock along the trail then along the cliffs. We could hear their call nearly everywhere we went.
We enjoy the cliff top view. Swallows swoop close enough that we can hear the wind whistle past their wings. A kestrel hovers nearby and complains that we are interfering with her favorite roost. The grating alarm of Prairie Falcons rises from the canyon as an eagle comes to rest on the rim. His stay is short as they mob him relentlessly until he abruptly abandons his post and swoops out of our sight.
The creek meanders along the canyon floor shrouded in green vegetation. No doubt there are many other local residents hiding just out of our sight.

Two out of three

Our first day out on the refuge and we saw pronghorn and one grouse. A group of mule deer made a showing too but no big horn sheep even with a 6 mile hike to a sheep viewing “hot spot”.  We have one more place to try tomorrow.

Like nearly all public land out here, they have wild horse and burros. A wild horse posed as he enjoyed a cool drink but no wild burros.  We didn’t even hear them.

A bit out of place, three white pelicans hung out at a little desert lake where a Bald eagle played “big fish in a little pond” trying to run off ravens and vultures.

It felt like we were the only ones here. We did not meet a single car on 80 miles of refuge road except a convoy of official white refuge trucks on the mission to check out something at one of the historic ranch sites.