Coal-Mesquite divide

One more hike before we head over to Tetons National Park.  It is a bright beautiful morning as we make the drive to Coal Creek trailhead just this side of Teton Pass.  Wispy clouds race across the mountain tops carried by high altitude winds.  We are off on a 3 to 3 ½ mile each way hike back the creek canyon to the cross roads with the Teton Crest trail.   It will take us through nearly 2000 feet elevation change and bring us to, we hope, nice views of the mountains.  The first third of the trail runs along the burbling creek first through pine woods then into thick willow and brush.  We sing to the bears now and again just to be sure they know we are coming.  Next, we climb along a wooded trail up the canyon wall.  The grade seems to last forever.  Once we pass 8000 ft. elevation, we puff a little harder and rest a little more but the walk through the trees is lovely and opens onto a lush meadow with a small creek twisting its way through it.  It is a perfect place for a break and a snack while we decide if we think the anticipated view at the end is worth the energy.  Ok, looks like only another ¼ mile, we are doing it.  Better keep moving though.  Those occasional wispy clouds of this morning are starting to collect up and hint of rain.  We marshal through the final steep stretch and pop up over the divide. Clouds shroud the top-most peak of Grand Teton but the view is worth the climb.  We relax and lunch watching the clouds advance and rise on the mountain tops until it seems wise to head back. Clouds are thickening.  We keep a good pace on our return (down-hill always helps with that) and in one check behind us see the very place we had been standing completely shrouded in dark grey clouds.  Good timing.  We keep moving and make it back to the truck wet with sweat but ahead of the rain.

We had hoped to see moose or maybe bear but no such luck.  Pika scurried on the scree piles near the top of the hike.  We heard but did not see marmots.  Kent spotted a different little rodent fellow – might be a prairie dog, at 8,000 ft?

10,000 ft ….. via chairlift!

We are off to Grand Targhee Resort for another try at a chairlift ride to the summit of Fred’s Mountain. Our plan is to ride up then hike a few miles of trails at the summit to check out the view from a few different angles. The special event is over at the resort and attendance is pretty light.  We grab our lift tickets and climb aboard.  As we are whisked up the mountain, we spot a number of deer.  They’ll be long gone soon.  Downhill bike trails that zig-zag down the slope below us open in less than hour.

The view from atop is a bit hazy but still an impressive look at the Tetons.  We head off on the trail to Mary’s Saddle.  It runs along the ridge so we can keep an eye on the view as the haze (hopefully) burns off.  A precarious start down from the summit on steep, loose rock gives way to a much more manageable path but there are a number of steep sections making the walk seem a lot further than its actual mile.  We are joined on the walk by our high-altitude buddies, marmots and pika. The pika are working hard collecting flowers and grasses and stacking them in large piles to dry in the sun.  This one fellow has two heaps each much bigger than he is. We come upon one nearly black marmot perched in a tree…pretty bear-like isn’t he.  The view from the saddle is spectacular as well.  We hang for a while just taking it all in and hoping the haze will clear a bit more.

We are rested and refreshed and set out on what they label “the easiest” path down, a trail/access road.  It is terrible….loose rock on steep grade much of the distance with nearly no shade.  The sun is blazing. I fall on my butt.  Yuck.  We are glad to get back down.

We have lunch at the slope-side restaurant.  It is delicious: Kent’s BLTA and my mushroom tacos.  A watermelon margarita hits the spot too.  Recharged, we head for the chairlift again. Our ticket is good for as many as 3 trips up and we want to see if it has cleared off.  Another smooth ride up and a short walk and we find it, a not-quite-crystal-clear but marvelous view.  Well worth the trip back up, especially since we rode the lift back down this time!

Our route home takes us back through Driggs and we can’t resist a repeat at the Corner Drug Store Soda Shop.  Kent goes for the perfect chocolate malt again and I their specialty, a lime freeze made with fresh squeezed lime juice.  Yum.

We relax back at camp.  No moose today but a super-friendly, high-energy, chocolate labrador cruises through several times as he explores camp.  I worry he’ll get lost but turns out his family is camping just a couple sites up the road from us.

Whew!

Darby Canyon trail to wind cave, 7 miles with 2024ft elevation change.  The temperature is in the 80s by the time we finish and the sun is blazing.  We are done for the day but glad to have made the trek and glad that we got a pretty early start.

Like most trails from this side of the Tetons, we access the higher slopes by following canyons cut by fast flowing creeks. Today, early in the walk, the trail takes us up the walls of the canyon well above the creek bed.  The views are lovely as we cross meadows interspersed with treed areas and open rocky outcroppings. We first hear the waterfall exiting the cave then spot the opening in the cliffs above us.  The last half mile or so is a steep mix of rock steps and tree root tangle that takes us to just over 8700 feet in elevation.  There is a bit of puffing but we make it.  Folks claim they scale the slope up to the entrance to walk then crawl to the back of the cave where the opening reduces to a couple feet in each direction.  It looks like today water would be running around our feet the whole time. We settle for the gurgle and splash of the falls and the lovely view from below.  We scan high meadows for wildlife both going and returning but none make an appearance.  Guess there are too many places to hide.  It is great to spot whatever is out there but it is even fun to look for them.

The night sky is phenomenal.  Countless stars with a broad sweep of the milky way.  Beautiful!

Ack, a planning miss

We decided, we are going to start with the gondola lift at Targhee and if we need a bigger long-view fix go for the trail.  The resort web page says gondola rides start at 10AM so we have a leisurely morning and head on out.   As we make the final climb of the drive up to the resort, we start seeing signs for pre-paid parking only at the top.  Hum, wonder what that’s about.  I know there is a music festival up here today but nothing said anything about no trail access.  Rats.  A young kid stationed at the parking entrance informs us that there is no public access today (maybe all weekend but he isn’t sure). The entire resort, meaning the entire mountain top, is open just to music festival attendees with prepaid tickets and prepaid parking and I know those tickets have been sold out for weeks.  Ack…  Back down, making alternate plans as we go.

We invoke our backup plan, a hike in Teton Canyon along the south fork of Teton Creek.   We set out along the creek through towering pines with a much lighter understory than other recent hikes.  It is cool and lovely.  There is a fair amount of traffic on the trail but Kent and I are alone on a stretch and we hear a loud huff.

Maybe 100ft to our right along the creek bank are two moose, a mature bull with a good start on a rack and a juvenile.  They browse with an eye on us for a bit before moving on when more hikers arrive.  We get a good look and some nice pictures.  We move on too. Pines give way to wide open mountain meadows backed by majestic cliffs, blanketed with wildflowers, and often cut through by a ribbon of willows lining the banks of smaller streams.  We find a perfectly placed butt rock and relax taking in the view. Kent muses that it seems a perfect moose spot and not 5 minutes later a cow moose emerges from the willows moving nervously and even challenging a pair of hikers who are on the trail fairly close.   She runs at them, not really charging but seemingly telling them not to get any closer then turns and collects up her young calf that has been hidden along the creek.  They both head upslope and disappear into the denser undercover.  All is well and it is a great encounter, for US.

We move on through one more lovely meadow and a lunch stop at the intersection with Devils Staircase trail before we reverse course for a nearly all downhill stroll back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

Amazingly Kent’s lens cover dropped somewhere near the far end of the trail is perched on a post awaiting our return at the trailhead.  Great walk, great views, wonderful wildlife viewing.  Maybe we were meant to take this hike today?

Heading home, right here in downtown Driggs we find the Corner Drug Soda Fountain.  The day just got even better.  Right inside the door we find a small old time counter manned by a cheerful soda jerk busily cleaning a fancy modern multi-head milkshake machine.  She directs us to a touchscreen order entry kiosk with, “isn’t that a great way to do that” (order) she says.  It spits out a printed order and we go back to old time soda fountain.  Methodically she pumps flavors, dips ice cream, blends and serves up first my Purple Monster (huckleberry shake with oreo blended in) then Kent’s chocolate malt.  It’s a fun place with a cool combination of old-time art of hand blended shakes and modern conveniences to make it all easier.  The ‘gal’ behind the counter really makes it all work.  My shake is delicious and Kent says the malt is as good as he has ever had. He reserves the right to continue sampling as he can to see if anyone can beat it.

On to the western slope

From atop the mesa we saw the Grand Valley of the Colorado River.  Today we head into the valley to check out The Colorado National Monument and all that the Grand Junction area has to offer.  The forecast is for blistering heat, triple digits most days, so we know exploring is going to have to happen early in the day.  I get a C in geography today.  I had to look up why it is called the western slope. Dah, the western side of the Continental Divide. Not to be confused with the eastern side that they call The Front Range.  Ok.

We settle in at Saddlehorn campground near the highest elevations of the monument.  It is a nice view over the valley but not high enough to get much of a break from the mid-day heat.  We check out the visitor center and make an initial pass along Rim Rock Drive through what is a small version of the big red-rock Utah parks.  There are colossal and intricate monoliths, windows and towering cliffs.  The route takes us down into the valley.  We have been having a hankering for Colorado beef so we head for a local favorite, Cattleman’s Bar and Grill in nearby Loma.  Turns out it is actually at the cattle auction barn….kind of a rustic setting but pleasant and welcoming.  We go for steak of course, Kent a sirloin and I prime rib.  Both are seasoned nicely and perfectly prepared as ordered.  Kent’s is actually more tender but mine is quite good as well.  I have to try the peach cobbler (Palisades is right here and they are known for excellent peaches).  Glad I tried it, a bit cakier than I expected but delicious. We leave with a giant doggie bag, portions are huge. We have a bit of excitement on the way home.  A band of big horn sheep appears in the roadway just at the exit of one of the rock tunnels on Rim rock Drive.  They cross and seemingly fly up a nearly vertical cut to the flatland above the road.  What a great way to end the day.

Collared Lizard

It’s 5:30AM, a beautiful, cool morning.  A quick breakfast and we are at the Lower Monument Canyon trailhead by 6:30. Combining Lower Monument with Wedding Canyon trail we make a 5-mile loop into the central canyon to the foot of Independence Monument.  It is a bit of a climb passing red rock, pinion pine and juniper.  Flycatchers and black throated sparrows flit and chip around us.  An amazingly acrobatic swift evades repeated swoops of a pursuing hawk high above the cliff tops.  Near the half way mark, oncoming hikers let us know that there are big horn sheep in the valley just ahead. Wonderful.  Around the next turn we find first a band of ewes and young then spot an older male with impressive horns.  Across the trail a regal looking old fellow sits quietly along with a ewe and two young.  They all watch cautiously but continue to munch and mill around the area.  We move on leaving them to find their site to bed down for the heat of the day.  Beyond Independence Monument we spot a ewe and one lamb.  Great walk.  It’s 90 by the time we leave the trail around 10:30. We are glad we got an early start.Collared Lizard

I’ve been planning a stop at the Dream Café.  It is a local bakery in town and not far out of our way.  They claim to have the biggest, best cinnamon rolls in town and we feel like we earned one.  We end up actually having brunch there and have to take the cinnamon roll home in a doggie bag.  We hang out in camp for the rest of the afternoon and evening. I take in the ranger program, The symphony of the Monument.  It is a fun talk about the significance of soundscapes and the importance of protecting them as well as the visual landscapes of parks.

Next, a day in town.  We sleep in then head for a local candy shop, Enstrom’s.  Their claim to fame is Almond Toffee and it is fantastic.  We hang out watching them make candy cooking it in big copper pots, pouring it to cool on a refrigerated table, smoothing, coating with chocolate and then with ground almonds.  Teams of two work at four tables along with another 3 or so floating among them to support measuring, cleaning and charging the copper pots.  All synchronized.  They make a lot of toffee.  I sample the toffee and we both sample store made ice cream.  Now it is time for errands: haircuts and laundry.  We finish up in time to spend the rest of the hot afternoon at a movie, Indiana Jones.  It took me a beat just to figure out how to buy tickets.  It’s all touch screen now and most are set up just to scan the prebought ticket on one’s phone.  I get to the right touchscreen and find the show, choose two tickets then get a seating chart.  Did I want to upgrade my seats?  Geeze, I just want to see a movie.  I get it figured out and we find our seats…not sure there could be a bad one or one to pay a premium for in this small theater.  But hey, we are happy with ours. The movie is really just a giant rehash of all the best chase and fight scenes from past Indiana Jones movies.  The plot is pretty lame and predictable; but, for Indiana Jones fans it was a fun couple hours.

Our last day here is very laid back.  My one objective, find a fruit market and get some of those highly acclaimed Palisades peaches.  The earliest varieties are in season and we find a few ripe and ready to eat at a little family market not far from camp.  We select a couple vine ripe tomatoes as well and pay in the honor jar.  While we are out, we stock up on groceries.  Our next week or so is back out in the boonies in the National Forest.  It’s hot when we get home.  We kick on the generator and the ac for a couple hours for a lazy afternoon.

A trail closer to home

A trail listed as hiking and equestrian only leaves from the back of camp and passes through wilderness area for its entire length.  That’s our plan for today.  Just into the hike the trail turns to cross Lottis Creek, no bridge.  The water is high and fast, too much to wade through in boots.  We detour 1/4 mile or so up-creek to find a log large enough that we brave crossing.   We return to the trail to weave through thick forest along the creek path. We spot a deer and numerous scat piles that look like elk might at least pass through.  A section of the creek looks like perfect beaver and moose habitat. We dawdle and check it out; but, no moose.  No beaver.  We spot a perfect marmot rock pile and spend our break scanning for movement.  Nope, no marmots.  We turn back about 3 miles out the trail and trace our steps back to camp. The trail follows a slight slope so not too strenuous; add the sound of the creek tumbling across boulders on its way downhill and the cool forest shade to make for a nice morning walk.

We have been pleasantly surprised that camp has not been over-run by off road vehicles

Wildflowers here we come

After a quiet night, we are on a mission to check out the wildflowers.  This weekend is actually the last couple days of the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival and there have been many reports of how amazing they are this year.  We choose one of the festival recommended trails, Snodgrass Mountain, head out pretty early for the drive to put us on the trail by 8:30 or so.  The area is amazing with entire hillsides painted mostly shades of yellow but dotted with purple, blue, red, white and orange.  Snow capped peaks ring the valley along with the namesake crested butte.  Wow!  We hike about 4 miles through meadows and treed terrain.  What a great time of year to be here.

North from town a driving loop reaches further up into the mountains.  Kent’s up for a bit more challenging driving, this is NOT all paved.  We start out high above then along the East River and the lush green valley that envelopes it.  I spot an elk.  Cool.  Wildflowers are still around but the show now is the surrounding mountains.  We get lots of pictures and find a spectacular lunch spot. The pictures don’t do it justice.  Two marmots cavort on the rock pile providing lunchtime entertainment.  We won’t be finishing the loop drive.  We meet a Crested Butte bound driver who reports that some earlier driver overestimated his skills and is stuck in remaining snow pack.  They have blocked the road and no one is getting through.  So, home we go.

Into the Wilderness

The front or west side of Browns Canyon National Monument protects the Arkansas River Canyon while allowing lots of development in all but the canyon proper. The east side is a Wilderness Study area with no development and access only by foot or horseback. Often these wilderness areas are great for wildlife viewing since they see much lower visitor traffic and typically require a long hike through front country to access. Here, it looks like we can drive a back route to a remote trailhead and jump right in. We are going to check it out.
Its forecast to be 93F today and we should have gotten a bit earlier start but the trail is in the national forest so we anticipate some pretty good shade and its just 30 some miles to the trailhead. We should be ok.
Just out of Salida we start dirt road. It is a bit narrow and quite twisty but good dirt road as we wander past the vacation homes built above town. Settlement stops and the road condition deteriorates. It is narrower and rougher and twistier as we wind our way around a quarry. It is all county routes and with each number change the road seems a bit less frequently maintained. We come upon a mountain town, Turret. Every single side street has big no trespassing and private property sign with warning to stay on the county route. All other property is overseen by the Turret HOA. Stay out. Ok, we stay to our route and carry on. Now we are definitely on the road less traveled. Brush is encroaching from both sides and wildflowers share the two-track path. Drainage is accomplished by cutting a ditch across the road and loose rock is strewn across steep climbs. We pass through sandy sections and many sections too steep to see the road over the hood or so tight a turn there is no way to tell if any one is coming. Turns out that isn’t a problem. We don’t meet another vehicle anywhere along the narrow route. Our little truck is in low gear 4-wheel drive but doing all that Kent asks of it. We are about 8 miles out what we think will be 10 miles of terrible road when, silence. The truck just shuts off. OMG, what’s that about. We still wonder; but it started right up like nothing happened. Whew! Ultimately washouts and steep roadcuts make it impassable. Kent backs to a wide spot and we hike in what turns out to be the last ¼ mile to the trailhead.
This is why we came here, a walk through wild space with hopes of seeing deer maybe elk and maybe even bear. It is rugged and beautiful as we move along first an old two track road then dry stream beds. Granite monoliths rise high above us with pinon pine and juniper in the valleys between them. We do notice there is not much shade and that the trail is often soft sand underfoot. Neither is what we were expecting. We manage to get off trail following the path of what must have been a trail ride. We wind up trailblazing up and down three ridges and their associated troughs. It’s getting hot and we are a bit tired and exasperated at the difficulty finding the trail. One more climb and tada, we are back on the trail and heading for high ground where we find fantastic long mountain views out over the valley to surrounding 14000s. We are feeling the heat and elevation so cut the hike a bit short and head back. So far one cottontail and a couple chipmunks. Good thing the views were nice.
We take quite a few breaks but make it safely to the truck. Retrace our route along the backcountry roads. Head on back to camp and collapse in the air conditioning.
Overall. It is a beautiful, quiet hike. The drive out to the trailhead is probably too much. If you do go, you definitely do not want to do it on a 90+ day in the brilliant sun. And don’t forget your hat.

Still no bear

It was a cool quiet night and we are up early.  Comanche and Venerable trails leave from camp and head up into NF wilderness.  We have the morning before we head into town so we squeeze in a short hike.  We must be getting a bit more acclimated to altitude; we get winded but don’t have to stop to rest nearly as often.   No bear but a couple new or at least rarely seen by us birds make a showing.  Back at camp we enjoy our great view and bask in the Colorado sun.  Lovely.

A waterfall (almost) and aliens

Zapata Falls on nearby BLM and state-owned land isn’t huge, just 24 feet tall but a bit of an oddity in this dry landscape.   We head out around 9 to check it out.  At the trail head we find a sign warning us that to actually see the falls one has to hike about ½ mile up the running creek bed.  Darn, none of my research told me that!  We give it a try anyway.  Maybe the water level will be manageable?  Nope.  We hike the dry first half mile or so and find that we will have to wade at least high-ankle deep the entire remaining route to the falls and neither of us are in suitable shoes.  It sounds beautiful….we settle for that and head back.

Since we are pretty early off the trail, we take a side trip to check out The UFO Watchtower. It’s been on my list since we got here.   What a joke.  It is definitely an “anything for a buck” place not the serious sort of alien believers we have found at Roswell and Marfa.  Probably worth the $5 each for entertainment value!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We lunch at Emma’s Authentic Food of the Southwest in Alamosa.   It is a small family place a little higher priced than most Mexican-like food establishments but the service is great and the food delicious.  I have stuffed sopapilla Christmas (green and red chillis) and Kent tries Emma’s Special, a taco, burrito, refried beans (excellent) and a sopapilla with honey butter.  I’d do it again.