Bryce Canyon National Park

Our trip into the park yesterday told us that even in October this place is busy mid-day.  So, we set the alarm for 6:45AM.  It is in the mid-20s and first light glints off the heavy frost on everything.  Distant mountain tops in all directions sport a new dusting of snow creating a perfect backdrop for fall colors.  Off we go.  We are in the park and at Rainbow point by 9AM.  Parking is no problem, yeah.  We have lots of clothes with us and the sun is toasty.  We set out to explore.

We start with views from the rim beginning at the furthest stop on the scenic drive, Yovimpa and Rainbow Points, then moving in toward the main amphitheater.   Views are absolutely amazing and different from every angle and every stop.  On this far end of the canyon it is all the work of nature.  The hordes of tromping boots are mostly held up on the rim; minimizing trail scars among the hoodoos below. Between the overlooks the bristlecone pine loop takes us past these hardy ancient pines that manage to survive in the cold, wind, scarce water and rocky ground above 9000 ft.  Gnarly, 1000+ years old and amazing.  Check out the namesake cones. We move on stopping at every pull out and taking dozens of pictures.

Now it’s time to wander among the hoodoos.  On the recommendation from the ranger (amazing hoodoos and not many other hikers), we choose the Tower Bridge Trail.  It is short, just 1 1/2 miles each way but it does go to the bottom of the canyon meaning an 800 ft drop in elevation.  It is an out and back; so, yep that’s 800 ft back up.  All this starts at 8000 ft elevation.  We wind among ever changing formations, rocks, spires, castle-like, spiraling walls, and sentinel towers standing solo among the many.  Trail side signs encourage extra care as we make our way through a sensitive vegetation area, another “grove” of bristle cone pines.  Our toes are cramping from the continuous downhill when we reach crisscrossing streambeds, this must be the bottom!  There just ahead, is the Tower Bridge hoodoo.  Definitely castle-tower-like and pretty cool.  It is absolutely silent here.  What a perfect place for lunch break.  Our pace up is just perfect for admiring lots more hoodoos from differing angles…..Back at the car we log in at 4.89 miles total door to door for this walk and 1095ft elevation change.   Well worth it to get the unique perspective of hoodoos from right among them.

We are back home entertained by the prairie dogs all around us.  There is dinner then a beautiful black night sky.  We fall into bed with the milky way arching across overhead.

It’s almost Halloween

Willa will be Jafar from Alladin this Halloween. We are not quite sure why she is so obsessed but she has been saying it for weeks and still not waivered.  Something about having evil magic powers.  Who knows.  We bring out last year’s witch costume and add a red lining to the cape, create a turban from Mom’s wool hat and some flower arrangement sprigs, and she and I create the iconic serpent scepter.  With a bit of face paint, she is quite Jafar-like.

The bear costume Willa wore when she was two just fits Miss Hazel.  It is adorable on her.

Woohoo, bear sighting day

Kent and I are up and on our way by 6:30 putting us at the Grinnell Glacier trailhead by just before 7:30. Yikes, it is cold, 37F and the sun isn’t high enough to warm this part of the valley.  We huddle in the warm truck for a few then put on everything we brought, fleece, windbreakers, wool hats, and gloves then head to the trailhead.

We take the trail along the north shore of first Swiftcurrent then Josephine Lake.  We spot moose tracks in the soft flat soil but no sign of the fellow(s) who might have made those tracks.  We have the trail pretty much to ourselves as we cross a boardwalk at the head of Josephene Lake then up a steep rock scramble to intersect with the Glacier Trail.   It is pretty much all uphill now to the end of the hike.  We hear a jumble of voices behind us.  No more wooded serenity, the first boatload of hikers just disembarked below us and are quickly overtaking us on the trail.  We’ll have lots of company on the trail for the rest of the day.  We are rapidly peeling off layers of clothing as we climb.  It is a fairly steep, long climb but we are urged on by the view of the glacier hanging high in the far end of the valley in front of us.  Its meltwater feeds first waterfalls then flows into blue-green Grinnell Lake below it.  We stop to check out the view and spot for mountain goals on the slopes.  Check it out. Mountain goat pic.  We get to a spectacular viewing spot and declare it the end of our climb.  The trail is very busy now with both overtaking and oncoming traffic, not so much fun.

Down is physically easier and traffic lessens once we get down off the switchbacks.  We get a bonus sighting, a large black bear along the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake.  It is a pretty quick look.  He has absolutely no interest in us.  Must be focusing on berry hunting.

We get back to the trailhead at the lodge just in time to see a band of big horn sheep ewes and their young.  Kent gets one of the most captured big horn pictures, butts!

Wild life sightings continue as we head out of the park.  First there is a fleeting look at a black bear in the trees off the left side of the entrance road. While we are gawking at it, a bear jam gathers.  Not for the black bear, for a big grizzly bear swimming toward us across Lake Sherburne.  She/he rises up out of the water as they come ashore then alternates snuffling about and trotting toward us.  By then a ranger has arrived to wrangle the watchers and clear a path should the bear keep coming our way.  It does, and he hustles all the cars and people out of the way.  We watch out of our rearview mirror as she moves on toward the road.  It is a fantastic grizzly sighting.  Quite close and within scurry distance of the truck!

We raid Carol’s kitchen, our first of several delicious cheeseboards.  Yum

For Kent and me the afternoon is all about resting up. Carol joins us to end the day with a tasty plate of nachos.

An early start

Traffic in Yellowstone around thermal features was pretty awful when we passed through yesterday and the weather forecast for today is rain mid-morning through afternoon and evening.  If we are going to see even the highlights, we have to get an early start.   Up at 5:45 and a quick cup of coffee gets us out the door by 6:15 and puts us at Old Faithful by 7:30. Enroute we spot elk including a cow and two small calves down for a drink.  We check out the posted next-eruption time.  Perfect, just enough time for a leisurely breakfast at the Inn.  Mike and Tracy’s pictures reminded us how cool the old structure is and we feel the need to check it out.  It’s a buffet with food a bit better than average but the cozy setting makes up for anything it lacks.  We are back out in plenty of time for Old Faithful’s show.  Even against a cloud filled sky it is spectacular.  The weather holds off long enough to walk the entire upper basin boardwalk including catching a Daisy geyser eruption.  We make it back to the geyser hill just in time to see Old Faithful a second time.  It looks more powerful from the view on the top boardwalk!  It is misting and still in the 50’s.  We check out the gift shop.  I must have another Yellowstone medallion, a bison this time.  Plans are to check out Grand Prismatic and the Norris Basin thermal area if the crowds aren’t awful.  No such luck, traffic is spilling out of the parking lots as folks are vulturing for spots.  We head home with a couple detours; The Firehole River Canyon Drive, it is spectacular, then a loop along the Madison River, lovely but no elk or bears on that section of the grassy banks today.  The elk from this morning are still out along 20.  It is definitely a favorite spot for them. We are back in camp sipping hot tea to warm up in the rainy and chilly weather.  It’s a great chance to catch up on the blog and naps!

Kids and grandkids in the Tetons

Mike, Tracy, Willa and Hazel land at Jackson Hole airport, load their plunder into a rental car, and we all make our way to our hangout for the week, our motorhome in Gros Ventre. Hazel takes over Willa’s traditional sleeping cubby back by Grampa and Nana and Willa is thrilled with her spot on the jack-knife sofa (unicorn and rainbow bedding are a big selling point).  Mike and Tracy get the over-cab queen and all is set….cozy but comfy.

We spend a day planning, exploring and settling in.  While Mike gets some recommendations from the Visitor Center Ranger the girls have a great time with the exhibits and trapsing around on the river image projected on the visitor center floor.  It is pretty cool.

Day two we dive in.  Mike, Tracy, Willa and Nana head for the Death Canyon Trail Head.  Cool name, right?  Our destination is the Phelps Lake Overlook.  We spot a black bear and her cub enroute along Moose-Wilson Road.  The trail is a bit challenging with some elevation change and an added mile or so because we have to use overflow parking.  We spend some time soaking in the view of the lake at the top and watching mock (we hope) helicopter rescues below us.  Great first hike, Dad.  Kent and Hazel  enjoyed some chill time at the motorhome.  She caught her afternoon nap.

Checking out town, Jackson.  First, it is playground time.  There are swings and climbing structures and plenty of slides plus a coffee shop not far away.  It is a fun couple hours for kids and adults.   We all work up an appetite and head for the Persephone Bakery where we share a selection of delicious pastries, cakes, and cookies.  There is a stop for pictures under the antler arches along the way. Once we hve gad our fill of goodies, Hazel heads back to camp with us while Willa takes Mom and Dad shopping and sight-seeing.  We hear that there is a horse drawn wagon involved and a stuffie, Rainbow Ruby (a unicorn) comes home with them.   Hazel takes a motorhome shower with Nana.  We get the girls for the evening while Mom and Dad head back into town for a date night.  Win: win all around.

Another hike, this time to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point above Jenny Lake.  We start with a ferry ride then there is a lot of “up”, we sort of expected that with a destination like Inspiration Point!  Willa is anxious to mountain climb – not just walk a trail- and to maybe get to the snow.  Above Hidden Falls she gets at least part of that wish.  The trail gets rocky and steep just perfect for her hands and feet climbing on up to the point.  She is thrilled to meet the beggy trail chipmunks.  She calls them “chicky” and is adamant that she be allowed to adopt one and take it home.  I get in trouble for swatting at them as they try to climb into my backpack and steal food.  They are very people habituated!  Just as we get her to move no an unusually brazen pica scurries right by Willa’s feet in a hurry to stash his mouthful of grass.  We climb a bit higher onto Cascade Canyon trail hoping to see more wildlife as the crowds thin out.  No luck with that but it does take us to an alternative, shorter, less steep return route back to the lake.  Here are fewer hikers so it makes for a perfect place to try out Willa’s rescue chain.  Check out the pic.  Her stated purpose was so the test of us could help Daddy when he got tired carrying Hazel the whole time.  More on its origin later.  The return ferry trip is a welcome opportunity to sit down for a few and by the time we make it to the car everyone is about done for the day.  Hazel was a great sport (Mike too) through all her time in the carrier.  She even caught a bit of a nap.

Beach time!  Lakes here are pretty cold for swimming but Mike gets a recommendation to try String Lake.  It is shallow so about as warm as they come in these parts.  We pack up blankets and towels and lunch and head out, Hazel in the truck with us.  Parking near the lake is an absolute zoo.  We troll the lots several loops until Grampa’s patience gives out.  Mike has dropped Tracy and Willa as he vultures for a spot.  I join them and Kent is off back to camp.  He and Hazel will find alternative entertainment today.  We girls are just claiming our spot on the beach when Mike walks up.  He got a spot in the second row…credit to his practice at parking in the city all those years.  Willa and Tracy build a great sand castle.  Mike takes the Polar Plunge, the only one of us to completely submerge in the “warmer” lake water.  A volunteer ranger comes by to have us move all our stuff to the bear locker.  A bear was sighted just a few hundred yards behind us.  We stash our bags for a half hour until we get the all clear and enjoy a nice picnic lunch.  There is a bit more castle building and some warming in the sun then we wrap it up and head home.

Today we head up to over 10,000 feet on the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village!  After about an hour weather (lightning) delay the aerial tram takes us to 10,450 ft on Rendezvous Mountain.   Clouds shroud the mountain tops and we rise right up into them.  We are all startled when a rock cliff appears seemingly right in our path.  We of course rise just along and above to safely come to a halt on the mountain top.   It is cold in the fog and wind so we duck into Corbet Cabin for a traditional treat, waffles and hot drinks.  We go for one traditional waffle =brown sugar butter and one Belgian= cookie butter, caramel and powdered sugar. So delicious.  The sun breaks through and we head out to explore.   Our goal is the Top of the World trail.  We are still looking for snow to play in but we are still not quite high enough for this time of year.  We have to be content to check out the glaciers above us.  We stroll and take in the view then board the tram for the trip down.  Its clear skies all the way down so views are better than ever.  The grounds in the resort are grassy and a great place to play.  Willa discovers a bungie trampoline.  She is going to try it.  I’d rate it as a somewhat tense but overall fun adventure.  Check out the pics and you be the judge.  We grab some lunch, play a bit longer as Grampa and Nana relax in our Adirondack chairs then we head off with the kids while Mom and Dad try to squeeze in one more hike.  Fun day for all.

Yellowstone day.  Willa is quite the volcano fan. Mike and Tracy have never been to Yellowstone.  Today is the day; they set off to check out the caldera and all the thermal features.  We plan out a fun day for Hazel with us so they can focus on that unique place.   They spend a night at the Yellowstone Inn and trapse all around checking out the sights.  Pictures and their report back say a good time was had by all.  We take Hazel to the beach at Lower Slide Lake.  We throw a lot of rocks to watch them splash.  Splash each other and do some people watching.  She is a bit reluctant to start but really gets into it by time to head home.  Once back home she paints, makes Dad a birthday card, and gets a traditional brown tub bath.  It is a full day for all of us too.

Early birthday for Dad.  Mike jumps in to help make his “cake”, Dutch oven peach cobbler.  It’s a fun way to celebrate and I’d say it came out pretty good.  There were no leftovers.

Nana there is a Moo

Then there was just everyday fun stuff.  Campfires with s’mores and fun stories.  Chalk art. Coloring.  Painting, rocks and on paper.  Crafts, the afore mentioned huge paper chain in particular.  Tillie time/pretend school mostly.  Bocce.  Playball. Camp dishwashing time.  Moose watching walking around camp and out the motorhome window, sometimes even sparring.  Redneck playpen bounce ball: Willa and Hazel in the pickup bed with the tailgate closed.  Kent bounces a tennis ball into the bed where it ricochets around until they catch it and throw it to, at, or purposefully just out of the reach of Grampa. Much giggling ensues.

We had a fantastic week and can’t wait to see them again when we head their way for Hazel’s birthday in October.

 

 

 

Coal-Mesquite divide

One more hike before we head over to Tetons National Park.  It is a bright beautiful morning as we make the drive to Coal Creek trailhead just this side of Teton Pass.  Wispy clouds race across the mountain tops carried by high altitude winds.  We are off on a 3 to 3 ½ mile each way hike back the creek canyon to the cross roads with the Teton Crest trail.   It will take us through nearly 2000 feet elevation change and bring us to, we hope, nice views of the mountains.  The first third of the trail runs along the burbling creek first through pine woods then into thick willow and brush.  We sing to the bears now and again just to be sure they know we are coming.  Next, we climb along a wooded trail up the canyon wall.  The grade seems to last forever.  Once we pass 8000 ft. elevation, we puff a little harder and rest a little more but the walk through the trees is lovely and opens onto a lush meadow with a small creek twisting its way through it.  It is a perfect place for a break and a snack while we decide if we think the anticipated view at the end is worth the energy.  Ok, looks like only another ¼ mile, we are doing it.  Better keep moving though.  Those occasional wispy clouds of this morning are starting to collect up and hint of rain.  We marshal through the final steep stretch and pop up over the divide. Clouds shroud the top-most peak of Grand Teton but the view is worth the climb.  We relax and lunch watching the clouds advance and rise on the mountain tops until it seems wise to head back. Clouds are thickening.  We keep a good pace on our return (down-hill always helps with that) and in one check behind us see the very place we had been standing completely shrouded in dark grey clouds.  Good timing.  We keep moving and make it back to the truck wet with sweat but ahead of the rain.

We had hoped to see moose or maybe bear but no such luck.  Pika scurried on the scree piles near the top of the hike.  We heard but did not see marmots.  Kent spotted a different little rodent fellow – might be a prairie dog, at 8,000 ft?

10,000 ft ….. via chairlift!

We are off to Grand Targhee Resort for another try at a chairlift ride to the summit of Fred’s Mountain. Our plan is to ride up then hike a few miles of trails at the summit to check out the view from a few different angles. The special event is over at the resort and attendance is pretty light.  We grab our lift tickets and climb aboard.  As we are whisked up the mountain, we spot a number of deer.  They’ll be long gone soon.  Downhill bike trails that zig-zag down the slope below us open in less than hour.

The view from atop is a bit hazy but still an impressive look at the Tetons.  We head off on the trail to Mary’s Saddle.  It runs along the ridge so we can keep an eye on the view as the haze (hopefully) burns off.  A precarious start down from the summit on steep, loose rock gives way to a much more manageable path but there are a number of steep sections making the walk seem a lot further than its actual mile.  We are joined on the walk by our high-altitude buddies, marmots and pika. The pika are working hard collecting flowers and grasses and stacking them in large piles to dry in the sun.  This one fellow has two heaps each much bigger than he is. We come upon one nearly black marmot perched in a tree…pretty bear-like isn’t he.  The view from the saddle is spectacular as well.  We hang for a while just taking it all in and hoping the haze will clear a bit more.

We are rested and refreshed and set out on what they label “the easiest” path down, a trail/access road.  It is terrible….loose rock on steep grade much of the distance with nearly no shade.  The sun is blazing. I fall on my butt.  Yuck.  We are glad to get back down.

We have lunch at the slope-side restaurant.  It is delicious: Kent’s BLTA and my mushroom tacos.  A watermelon margarita hits the spot too.  Recharged, we head for the chairlift again. Our ticket is good for as many as 3 trips up and we want to see if it has cleared off.  Another smooth ride up and a short walk and we find it, a not-quite-crystal-clear but marvelous view.  Well worth the trip back up, especially since we rode the lift back down this time!

Our route home takes us back through Driggs and we can’t resist a repeat at the Corner Drug Store Soda Shop.  Kent goes for the perfect chocolate malt again and I their specialty, a lime freeze made with fresh squeezed lime juice.  Yum.

We relax back at camp.  No moose today but a super-friendly, high-energy, chocolate labrador cruises through several times as he explores camp.  I worry he’ll get lost but turns out his family is camping just a couple sites up the road from us.

Whew!

Darby Canyon trail to wind cave, 7 miles with 2024ft elevation change.  The temperature is in the 80s by the time we finish and the sun is blazing.  We are done for the day but glad to have made the trek and glad that we got a pretty early start.

Like most trails from this side of the Tetons, we access the higher slopes by following canyons cut by fast flowing creeks. Today, early in the walk, the trail takes us up the walls of the canyon well above the creek bed.  The views are lovely as we cross meadows interspersed with treed areas and open rocky outcroppings. We first hear the waterfall exiting the cave then spot the opening in the cliffs above us.  The last half mile or so is a steep mix of rock steps and tree root tangle that takes us to just over 8700 feet in elevation.  There is a bit of puffing but we make it.  Folks claim they scale the slope up to the entrance to walk then crawl to the back of the cave where the opening reduces to a couple feet in each direction.  It looks like today water would be running around our feet the whole time. We settle for the gurgle and splash of the falls and the lovely view from below.  We scan high meadows for wildlife both going and returning but none make an appearance.  Guess there are too many places to hide.  It is great to spot whatever is out there but it is even fun to look for them.

The night sky is phenomenal.  Countless stars with a broad sweep of the milky way.  Beautiful!

Ack, a planning miss

We decided, we are going to start with the gondola lift at Targhee and if we need a bigger long-view fix go for the trail.  The resort web page says gondola rides start at 10AM so we have a leisurely morning and head on out.   As we make the final climb of the drive up to the resort, we start seeing signs for pre-paid parking only at the top.  Hum, wonder what that’s about.  I know there is a music festival up here today but nothing said anything about no trail access.  Rats.  A young kid stationed at the parking entrance informs us that there is no public access today (maybe all weekend but he isn’t sure). The entire resort, meaning the entire mountain top, is open just to music festival attendees with prepaid tickets and prepaid parking and I know those tickets have been sold out for weeks.  Ack…  Back down, making alternate plans as we go.

We invoke our backup plan, a hike in Teton Canyon along the south fork of Teton Creek.   We set out along the creek through towering pines with a much lighter understory than other recent hikes.  It is cool and lovely.  There is a fair amount of traffic on the trail but Kent and I are alone on a stretch and we hear a loud huff.

Maybe 100ft to our right along the creek bank are two moose, a mature bull with a good start on a rack and a juvenile.  They browse with an eye on us for a bit before moving on when more hikers arrive.  We get a good look and some nice pictures.  We move on too. Pines give way to wide open mountain meadows backed by majestic cliffs, blanketed with wildflowers, and often cut through by a ribbon of willows lining the banks of smaller streams.  We find a perfectly placed butt rock and relax taking in the view. Kent muses that it seems a perfect moose spot and not 5 minutes later a cow moose emerges from the willows moving nervously and even challenging a pair of hikers who are on the trail fairly close.   She runs at them, not really charging but seemingly telling them not to get any closer then turns and collects up her young calf that has been hidden along the creek.  They both head upslope and disappear into the denser undercover.  All is well and it is a great encounter, for US.

We move on through one more lovely meadow and a lunch stop at the intersection with Devils Staircase trail before we reverse course for a nearly all downhill stroll back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

Amazingly Kent’s lens cover dropped somewhere near the far end of the trail is perched on a post awaiting our return at the trailhead.  Great walk, great views, wonderful wildlife viewing.  Maybe we were meant to take this hike today?

Heading home, right here in downtown Driggs we find the Corner Drug Soda Fountain.  The day just got even better.  Right inside the door we find a small old time counter manned by a cheerful soda jerk busily cleaning a fancy modern multi-head milkshake machine.  She directs us to a touchscreen order entry kiosk with, “isn’t that a great way to do that” (order) she says.  It spits out a printed order and we go back to old time soda fountain.  Methodically she pumps flavors, dips ice cream, blends and serves up first my Purple Monster (huckleberry shake with oreo blended in) then Kent’s chocolate malt.  It’s a fun place with a cool combination of old-time art of hand blended shakes and modern conveniences to make it all easier.  The ‘gal’ behind the counter really makes it all work.  My shake is delicious and Kent says the malt is as good as he has ever had. He reserves the right to continue sampling as he can to see if anyone can beat it.

A great wildlife day

We are out on Palisades Creek Trail.  The creek is roaring, we have had quite a bit of rain in the area the past week.  It is a bit muddy underfoot and we are grateful to have the benefit of bridges at the various crossings along the way.  Sometimes the water is right at our feet, others the trail is higher up slope along the bottom edge of soaring cliffs.  Our goal today is lower Palisades Lake where we settle in along the boulder strewn shore to watch for critters after spotting a grouse on the trail.  Chipmunks show up in mass begging for our lunch. Geese, common goldeneye and mallards are trailing their young around.  We are very surprised to first hear then spot pica busily gathering wildflowers and leaves for their den.  Previously, we have only seen them at much higher elevation.  This is moose territory too but none show their faces today.

 

 

On the way back down, I am on the lookout for the amazing American Dipper.  It’s a cool, robin sized bird that actually swims entirely underwater in fast flowing water and catches bugs.  There are many perfect looking spots in this creek and finally I spot one of the little guys resting on a root ball out in the stream.  Yeah!  Nine miles.  We’re glad to get the boots off.

 

 

We are home chilling after dinner.  The door is open.  Out of the corner of my eye I spot movement.  What?

Out the window

It is the hind legs of a young moose who is intently munching right outside the door.  We get lots of pictures.  Much of camp gets in on the watching but he/she is way more interested in eating than the people hanging around.  What an ending to this day!