Day one at Bears Ears National Monument

We head out this morning to explore .  We start with Valley of the Gods, a smaller scale Monument Valley.  17 miles of narrow gravel road wind through a field of redrock formations.  Shadows and colors are beautiful in the morning light.

Then Kent gets some really “fun” driving.  We head up Moki Dugway, a steep switchback-rich climb up onto Cedar Mesa.  We made this drive years ago but it is still exciting.  The road is steep and hangs on the edge of the cliffs but is in pretty good shape and the traffic is light.  Views are fantastic.  Once up on the plateau we head for Muley Point for even more amazing vistas. To the south we see as far as Monument Valley.  To the North are the snow-capped La Sal mountains over 70 miles distant.  Just below us is a bird’s eye view of Valley of the Gods and the longest entrenched meander in North America.  The San Juan River moves less than 2 miles toward the Colorado in 6 miles of twists and turns in a canyon over 1000 feet deep.

We make a quick stop at the Bears Ears Educational Center for local recommendations on drives, trails, and interesting sites.  Armed with marked up maps we are set for the next several days of exploring.

Moving on

Our journey from Page to Bluff, Utah starts off through a wide valley of rolling desert scrub.  By mid-way through the trip, red sandstone formations begin to appear on the landscape.  As we move on, gigantic monoliths and delicate spires become more and more common. Soon we find ourselves in the middle of Monument Valley.  It is awesome.  We have to stop at Forest Gump Point for a quick selfie of course then its on to Hat Rock near the town of Mexican Hat and finally our new home.  We are at Cottonwood RV in Bluff for next few days.

Wahweap Hoodoos

We are in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and take to the trails.   Five miles out the mostly dry creek bed of Wahweap Creek is a collection of cool looking, odd shaped, gravity defying towers.  Dakota Sandstone caps sit atop towers of Entrada Sandstone that the powers of wind and water have carved free from surrounding cliffs.  Around the spires are mounds that resemble melted candles and recesses filled with intricate shapes and curtains created as waters recede and evaporate redepositing rock.  At our feet in the flow channels of the creek-bed, the last vestiges of floodwaters have carved what looks like miniature versions of the canyon features all around us.

The trek is a bit of a challenge.  Not only is it pretty long, 10+ miles round trip, but it is mostly on round rock and gravel strewn sand with unexpected gooey muddy spots.  Oh, and it is very windy whipping stinging sand into our eyes and everywhere else.  It is particularly bad on the way back out to the truck.  I’m exhausted, Kent’s pretty tired too but it was a great hike.  We grab a well-earned ice cream cone on the way home then crash for the rest of the day.

Upper Antelope Canyon

It has been on Kent’s bucket list a few years now to see Antelope Canyon.  We have seen some spectacular pictures and want to see the real thing.  The slot canyon is on Navajo land and access is by guided tour only, not our typical way to see great works of nature.  Today is the day.  Step one, load up onto bench seats in the back of a pickup and bounce along a dry wash for 15 minutes or soIt is early so still cool and we are a smallish group, 10 total, rather than the 14 in many of the trucks.  Not a bad ride, then here we are.  There are rows of tour trucks and vans.  How on earth do they manage this many people through this little canyon?  Our guide, Craig gathers us together and chats ‘til our turn to enter.  From the outside the canyon is really not very impressive, just a dark, narrow-topped opening in a dull brown rock face.  Just a couple feet in and we are surrounded by multicolored, swirling patterns in smooth stone.  I took a ton of pictures.  None do it justice.  With each step the view changes with more or less light and wider or narrower pathways.   We didn’t get the noon time tour that is known for its spectacular sunlight beam down through the chamber but our guide did great pointing out cool views and perspectives and taking pics for us all.  Go if you can.  It is a unique and wonderous experience.  They really handled the multitudes very well.

Mid-height in the canyon at Zion

Side streams into the canyon cascade from cliffs high above the canyon floor.  Airy, windblown falls pool on rock benches along the rock walls creating cool oases for wildlife and hiker.  Today we check out the three emerald pools across from Zion Lodge.  There are lots of steps and some steep ramp sections but this is a cake walk of a hike compared to West rim out of the canyon.  We see up close the huge impact of water on this whole ecosystem, enjoy great canyon views, and even find a bench to sit and watch some climbers.

A day at Zion National Park

Zion is our next planned stop but it is just over an hour drive in the car from here so we decide to spend our MH maintenance extension day there.  Our goal is to check out the visitor center and do planning for our stay later this week.  Maybe we’ll get in a couple easy hikes.

Tuesday morning around 9 there is a que at the entry gate probably 15 minutes long.  The only lot in the park is at the visitor center and it is packed.  We cruise the entire lot once but luck out as we begin lap 2, someone’s pulling out.  Yeah!  First thing we learned for later in the week, come early.  The Narrows and Angel’s Landing are two signature trails here and we are entertaining hiking them both.  The information desk confirms online reports, no hiking the narrows up the Virgin River this week.  The trail opens at any flowrate below 150 cfs through the canyon.   That won’t be happening any time soon.  The current river flow rate is 1360 cfs through the trail canyon and there is still a lot of snow melt to come from atop the surrounding mountains.  As for Angel’s Landing, sounds like we can try for a next day permit online.  We might.

We have some trepidation about having to ride a shuttle to access the main canyon.  It is no sweat today.  We never wait more than 5 minutes, it is nice not to have to fret about parking, and Kent and I both can enjoy the fantastic view.  We walk the riverwalk at the end of the canyon.  It ends at the step-off for The Narrows hike into a torrent of churning, chocolate milk colored water.  Indeed, 1360 cfs is WAY too much water.

This is California Condor country and we were advised to check at Big Bend along the shuttle route for a possible sighting.  Good advice.  We spot a pair roosting on a cliff ledge then effortlessly riding the thermals to high above the canyon walls.  Hooray!

At weeping rock, a graceful, windblown waterfall cascades off the high pour-off adding to the usual dripping spring in the alcove.  It is a spectacular addition.

That is it for today.

Snow Canyon State park

Check out the petrified sand dunes.  The work of eons-ago wind is frozen in time.  Very cool.

Sandstone cliffs tower above the canyon floor.  Black, crumbly ‘A’a lava, spewed intermittently from long silenced volcanoes, caps some cliffs and litters the canyon beneath.  It has affected erosion of the softer stone beneath it creating unexpected shapes.  It’s sharp, loose-underfoot debris makes walking a challenge where ever it collects.  We check out The Pioneers Names cliff…dates written in an alcove of the cliff with what they believe is axel grease date back to the 1870s.  Must have been quite the journey through here back then.   We hike about 3 ½ miles getting close up looks of formations and great overlook views of the entire canyon.

Opposite in scale from these enormous formations are the tiny crater-like shapes in the dust at our feet.  Equally awesome!  This is where it sprinkled rain last night.

The park is worthy of a stop.  We are here Monday AM.  Crowds might be bad on weekends.  We are just outside St. George, Utah so lots of regular local users.

So long Lake Mohave

The wind has kicked up and just won’t settle.  13 mph seems manageable but there are just no sheltered coves to hide in this long narrow lake and it drives us in two days in a row.  No more fish caught and too rough to float and soak in the peace and quiet.  We chill a couple more days then tomorrow we head out to points east and north with the ultimate destination Zion and Bears Ears National Monument.  Kent wakes early so we get an early start.  Good thing since we have to load up the boat and deliver the big trailer to storage plus it is our first attempt to tow the new truck.  Firsts are nearly always time consuming.

Trailer connected.  Boat loaded.  Trailer dropped at storage – quiet the feat to get it in the covered spot!  Now for the truck hookup: there is lots of double checking and we even have the owners’ manual out.  We got it.  10:30 AM and we are on our way.

Check out our new look for summer 2023.

Bucket List Adventure

We have for many years been in Canada and Alaska but never really seen the Aurora Borealis.  During the summer months the nights are short and sometimes cloudy and we seem to go pretty hard during the day then sleep at night when the “lights” are visible.  Too many times our camping neighbors have asked if we saw the lights last night.  So we decided to take a special trip when the conditions were favorable to see them.  According to the brochure if you stay 3 nights you have a 95% chance of viewing them near Yellowknife, Northwest Territory Canada.  We chose the Blanchford Lake Lodge as our destination.  We checked the phase of the moon and scheduled during the New Moon to avoid the moonglow interference.  We were planning to travel in the southwest this summer and host Willa for a desert adventure during her Spring break so we hurried from Texas to near Las Vegas for our flight.

After several flight adjustments our travel to Yellowknife via Vancouver left much earlier than when we picked the flight but choices to these destinations are pretty limited.  So, we added a hotel stay the night before and caught the 3:30AM shuttle to the airport. We sailed through security and grabbed a fast-food breakfast prior to the flight.  We had plenty of time for lunch in Vancouver due to the early flight, then it was on to Yellowknife with an 8:30PM landing. The airport at Yellowknife amounted to a building with 3 gates(doors) where you walked across the plane parking area.  Glad we kept our coats in the overhead since it was about -4F and windy.

Upon arrival at the hotel we were informed, the kitchen is closed including “bar food” , so it was off into the night in search of Boston Pizza.  Boston Pizza also has a full bar so it was a good find for some weary travelers.  We learned the next morning the “lights” were visible briefly during our dinner.  Seems like our luck is holding true to form.

We were scheduled on the Tindi Air noon flight to the lodge from the “old town” float plane base. When we arrived at Tindi we traded our lower 48 winter gear for the real thing.  Seems part of the “wilderness float(ski) plane” rules require everyone to be in Survival gear and here that means -35F.  Our plane for the trip was a historic/legendary twin Otter.  Before we boarded the aft of the plane was loaded with food and supplies for the lodge including fuel for the generator and snowmobiles.

The flight went without event and was pretty smooth considering our altitude was probably less than 2,000 ft.  We were greeted upon arrival and given a walking tour of the entire facility while our luggage was distributed.

 

Blanchford Lake Lodge has been hosting summer and winter adventurers for decades. One member of our group had been to the lodge 32 years earlier and was fascinated by the current conditions.  Our choice for the adventure was the original cabin built after the lodge itself.  It included sleeping space for up to 7 including the loft, a wood stove for heat and a composting toilet.  It took a little practice but it was never too hot or too cold in the cabin other than a couple of times we stayed away too long and the fire went completely cold.

We watched for lights the first night and learned the next morning they were visible around 3:30AM after we gave up around 2.  Our luck is still holding.

The next night we had clouds move in after midnight so we went on to bed.

The third night the spectacular

 

show started around 9:30PM and lasted until after midnight.  The lodge had buzzers like are used in restaurants to call when your table is ready for those of us in cabins and they promised to knock on doors unless you had the “do not disturb” sign out.  This night the buzzer was jumping and doors were knocked on but we had already noticed the view and were out snapping pictures and enjoying the view.  This was the show we came to see.

The fourth night was not spectacular but still worthy of attention between clouds.

During the days we found ourselves hiking the many trails through the wilderness.  So beautiful and serene.

One afternoon a “boot” hockey game broke out mostly among the Canadians.  Boot hockey is much like sandlot hockey, no skates, self officiated, and the goal at each end was (2)5 gal buckets.  We watched and cheered.

All too soon it was time to leave.  The puzzle Lynn started the 1st day in the lodge was nearing completion but, that joy was left for the incoming adventurers. We received a heartfelt sendoff from the older couple that mostly stayed behind the scenes and were probably the owners of the lodge.

After our flight back to Yellowknife we ventured across Great Slave Lake to see Yellowknife’s Winterfest. Each year volunteers construct an ice castle and figures on the lake.  The only non-ice items I saw were a couple of wooden doors.  The Castle is open for the month of March then demolished and left to melt back into the lake during the spring thaw.  An amazing community event.

After a night in Yellowknife it was back to Las Vegas via Vancouver without incident.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But we are not headed back to the motorhome just yet.

We planned to go pickup Willa for her spring break trip.  Then Mike and Tracy sweetened the pot. “would we like to take care of both girls in Kingston for a week while they take a mini-vacation of their own”.  They got an emphatic yes so after a change of suitcases and a night in Vegas we were NY bound.

 

 

While we were in NY we learned of the sudden closure of Blandford Lake Lodge.  Seems inflation added on top of the pandemic stretched the operation too thin to continue.  Seems a shame.  Really glad it held out till after our trip.

Oatman

We have visited before but it is still a fun stop.  The burros are here snacking on hay pellets now instead of carrots and decidedly less pushy than I recall. 

 

 

 

 

We caught the 2:30 gunfight show.  All the shops are open, antiques, clothes, trinkets and souvenirs.  I add a medallion to my collection.  We lunch al fresco at The Oatman Hotel; bison burger for Kent and pulled pork for me. Burro ears all around (crispy chip-like fried potatoes). It is a great afternoon.