I would say that this is a park more accurately described as amazing than beautiful. It is all about a wilderness area encompassing the Congaree River floodplain forest, the largest floodplain forest remaining in the US. Just two weeks ago, and as often as 10 times a year when the Congaree overflows its banks, this area was inundated by ten feet or more of fast-moving water. Today, old growth water tupelo and bald cypress and the occasional loblolly pine tower above acres of dorovan muck (clay mixed with decaying leaves), still swamp pools, and slow-moving Cedar Creek. It is amazing how plants and creatures have evolved to survive here. 
We paddle the creek. We launch in that slippery mushy muck. The air is heavy with the smell of wet earth. We maneuver around submerged and half submerged debris and limbo under fallen trees. All this with a watchful eye for the snakes (I spotted one just ½ mile into the paddle) and spiders and all that call this place home. Viewed from water level, cypress and tupelo trunks appear enormous and the cypress knees that jut from the backwaters along the creek are too many to count. Sunlight filters through the bright, spring green as the canopy overhead is just leafing out. We spot the waving white flags of a half dozen whitetail deer as they startle at our appearance. Birdsong mixes with the rustle of wind through the trees. We have this unique place pretty much to ourselves for these hours. Yep, it is amazing. There are brief moments of disappointment as the roar of jets tear through the peaceful isolation of this wild space.
We stroll the visitor center boardwalk for a nice overview of the wide range of micro ecosystems that are represented in this plain. Not your typical mega National Park but a good reflection on man-kind that we still managed to attempt to protect it.
Probably an important note. Oddly, there were practically no mosquitoes our entire time in the park. Given the terrain, I suspect that is not always the case and could very well impact how much I or others appreciate the place!
and all goes smoothly. We check into the KOA, not exactly a 5-star KOA, but it’ll do as a base for exploring Merritt Island NWR and the Canaveral National Seashore.
manatee viewing area at Haulover Canal, one manatee makes a quick appearance plus dolphins and brown pelicans cruise about.
Turns out he is hunting for breakfast and we catch the pounce. Amazing. Add quite a few roseate spoonbills and some great looks at reddish egrets and flocks of glossy ibis (we typically have seen them one or two at a time) plus an assortment of other fun marsh birds and a sampling of shore birds. We log around 6 miles on foot through the course of the day then
head to the beach to relax. Nope, not today. 13 parking lots and the place is packed. We head home 4ish with a quick stop for ice cream at a cool cone-shaped place, Frisbees. Nice ending to a fun day.
We just have to stop to check out the one that got it started. The main birding trail weaves through the mangroves and is a nice walk. We spot a few snakes and egrets. We come across an open view into a shallow bay and enjoy watching what looks like a collaborative fishing effort of brown pelicans and dolphins. On the lagoon side of the refuge an observation tower provides a nice view of Pelican Island
and a great spot to watch wood storks show off their magnificent soaring and banking ability as pelicans patrol the waters. A few Roseate spoonbills sit in the treetops on the island. Later a Roseate flies right overhead.
We can’t pass up a tasty version of a Rueben from the lunch truck at the Marina. Pastrami and kraut on rye with lots of mozzarella all grilled to gooey perfection. Delicious. Low light pollution and a late rising moon bring us a marvelous dark night sky. It is a nice ending for the stay.
(4 miles) was easy on the way out but across a moderate chop coming back in. It seemed like the wind blew from every direction and the waves formed like pyramids that the boat slid off of in every direction. The last mile was a challenge. Out at the far end of the lake we wound through a shady, quiet mangrove tunnel. It had one “limbo tree” to get under but we made it through. You can get all the way out into Florida Bay if you continue another 4 miles or so but there was lots more open water ahead and the wind was kicking up so we turned back. Overall, a good trip but watch the wind forecast if you have plans to head out this trail.
An immature bald eagle glided overhead, the first we have seen here. 3 miles out plus a little loop in Coot Bay then we start back. Not surprisingly, we paddle against a headwind. 
We are entertained by the acrobatics of swallow-tailed kites and catch a look at an open-mouthed croc sunning among downed limbs.
A couple manatees, the baby osprey, and a crocodile all made an appearance. We checked out the marina store and visitor center then gathered up Kent to head back to Long Pine with stops at a few high points along the way. It was getting pretty late in the day so it was hot and humid but we walked the West Lake and Mahogany Hammock boardwalks and did a bit of bird watching at a couple other stops. We delivered Carol home and polished off her leftovers for lunch. We were all looking forward to some relaxation in the air conditioning. We headed back to Flamingo for one more day in the park before we start our journey north. So long Carol. Current plans have us crossing paths next in NY for Miss Willa’s b’day.
It gets better. A tiny brown fuzzball wobbles out of the grass to join the foraging adults. Are there more? Yep. A second fuzzball appears. They are adorable. I guess they look sort of crane-like! We watch a bit then head on to see what else might be out here.
right along the footpath.
We leave the rig down in the valley in Edinburgh to cruise the drive more leisurely in the car. We have seen more wildlife on the drive in the summer but when it comes to scenery, I say there is no better time of year for this drive. We stop at nearly every viewpoint and hit a few trails.
On a hazy day we head out on Dark Hollow Falls trail. The creek babbles beside us, tumbling and gurgling over leaf strewn boulders as we descend with it. It is beautiful.
With continued residential growth in the area this unit is seeing outstanding usage. The parking area is often full and visitors are turned away due to overcrowding. The answer, an expansion of the parking area. New fencing around parking lot then gravel for parking lot repair and expansion. The parking capacity went from 5 to 18 cars.
We were also tasked with a smaller simpler kiosk for a trail to a noteworthy Live Oak tree located here on the refuge. I was quicker to build, required fewer materials and provides more than adequate space for the trail specific information display needed. Another problem was addressed by adding posts to restrain cars to the parking area and away from the trail.