We have arrived; site 124 in Santee State Park along the shore of Lake Marion. After a 7-hour drive we are glad to climb down out of those seats. It has been windy (not quite a head wind) most of the drive and I95 traffic heavy enough that accordion slowdowns just materialize for no specific reason. Kent has powered through it with enough energy left to complete the marathon unloading that comes with every lake stop. With the combination of a long pull through site and some creative maneuvering we are able to unload the whole mess right in the site. A quick trip to the visitor center and we have fishing licenses, we shuffle gear, and Kent runs out for boat fuel. It has been a full day but we are set to explore the lake in the morning. Windy conditions have the lake pretty choppy this evening but milder conditions are forecast for tomorrow.
Category Archives: South
Ouch
Just completed a $500 diesel fill-up, $4.84/gallon. This tops the previous record of $477.50 at a remote Canada station on the way to Alaska in 2014. We are set for a while now and head on up to South Carolina.
A short move up to Titusville
It is a 1 ½ hour drive and all goes smoothly. We check into the KOA, not exactly a 5-star KOA, but it’ll do as a base for exploring Merritt Island NWR and the Canaveral National Seashore.
We head out to the beach Friday afternoon. It is nearly deserted, beautiful and relaxing. We check out the manatee viewing area at Haulover Canal, one manatee makes a quick appearance plus dolphins and brown pelicans cruise about.
Saturday, we catch a sunrise on the beach then spend the day in the refuge. The highlight, watching a bobcat up close. Turns out he is hunting for breakfast and we catch the pounce. Amazing. Add quite a few roseate spoonbills and some great looks at reddish egrets and flocks of glossy ibis (we typically have seen them one or two at a time) plus an assortment of other fun marsh birds and a sampling of shore birds. We log around 6 miles on foot through the course of the day then head to the beach to relax. Nope, not today. 13 parking lots and the place is packed. We head home 4ish with a quick stop for ice cream at a cool cone-shaped place, Frisbees. Nice ending to a fun day.
Odds and ends around Long Point
Local eatery – Squid lips – Conch fritters, crunchy fish BLT wrap, fish and chips, plus key lime pie to go. It is a delicious stop.
More beach time – sunrise and sun time. Waves are still high. We never get beyond knee deep but it is beautiful.
Some walking – Indian River lagoon Preserve – ok walk. Maritime Hammock Sanctuary – great shady stroll.
Driving the Cruise Jungle Trail – it’s an old route along Indian River Lagoon that now winds among oaks and mangroves in a narrow undeveloped zone between huge homes and condos and the waterfront. It is cool and amazing that it still exists.
The Sebastian Inlet area stays on or list of places we might return to in Florida. Next time we hope for calmer winds. It would be great to get out in the kayaks and a little further into the surf.
Oceanside
Some 25 miles of the ocean barrier island beach is within Archie Carr NWR. Back toward camp, we find a dune cross-over and check it out. The beach is deserted except for one lone fisherman. It is high tide and a strong wind out of the east brings surf much too rough for me to do any more than get my feet wet. We find a comfy log and take a seat well beyond the waves. Bright sun. Crashing waves. Salty spray. Soft, smooth sand. It is a feast for the senses.
The First National Wildlife Refuge
In 1903 Roosevelt signed an executive order to create Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge to protect one of the last brown pelican rookeries on the east coast. Today there are about 568 refuges. We just have to stop to check out the one that got it started. The main birding trail weaves through the mangroves and is a nice walk. We spot a few snakes and egrets. We come across an open view into a shallow bay and enjoy watching what looks like a collaborative fishing effort of brown pelicans and dolphins. On the lagoon side of the refuge an observation tower provides a nice view of Pelican Island and a great spot to watch wood storks show off their magnificent soaring and banking ability as pelicans patrol the waters. A few Roseate spoonbills sit in the treetops on the island. Later a Roseate flies right overhead.
North on 95
We make a quick stop at The Anhinga Trail for a daytime pass. No mosquitos, that is a plus, and we see anhinga feeding their young in the nests. Then we are off. Kent expertly maneuvers the tangled web of interstates and toll roads around Miami/Ft Lauderdale then it’s straight up 95 to Long Point Park, Melbourne Beach Florida. It is a lovely setting for a park. We are just off A1A on the barrier island and among the mangroves near Sebastian Inlet. It almost feels chilly at 74 degrees and breezy.
What has changed at Everglades NP in 5 years? Lots.
Mosquitos…at least so far this visit they are quite manageable with just a short flare up in the twilight hours. Our last visit they were thick all the time and ran us indoors at least part of every day.
There are nearly No ground mammals due to the invasive Burmese Pythons.
Eco Lake is a different place. Hurricane tidal surge carried salt water well inland into what was a lovely little fresh water lake, home to many wading birds. No more. Salt-poisoned vegetation stands bare on the banks. The surface of the pond is alive with marsh bugs and clogged with periphyton, an algae mat the looks sort of like soggy breadsticks. Icky looking but it is nature doing its thing.
They are actually working at repairing the historical pink visitor center building to serve that purpose once again; perhaps as soon as late summer 2022. That will be nice. They are still in a dinky temporary building.
Construction on the long-planned hotel has resumed. The concrete pillar foundation now supports a shipping-container-style construction. They are adding the roof now with posted completion this summer. Looks unlikely to me. The restaurant section is even further behind.
Last day in Everglades
We take a down day and just laze. We can’t pass up a tasty version of a Rueben from the lunch truck at the Marina. Pastrami and kraut on rye with lots of mozzarella all grilled to gooey perfection. Delicious. Low light pollution and a late rising moon bring us a marvelous dark night sky. It is a nice ending for the stay.
Exploring
Bird watching on the mud flats of Florida Bay. This is a spotting scope spot! The flats are WAY out there. We recognized blue herons, egrets and pelicans but everybody else is just a swarm of birds. At the marina we spotted a baby manatee in the canal area and a nest filled with young osprey. Fun.
Birdwatching in Snake Bite off Florida Bay. It is far out to the flats here too but I think I saw roseate spoonbills. It was a long hot hike back! Only 1.8 miles but hardly any breeze and 85+.
Kayaking West Lake. The long open water paddle (4 miles) was easy on the way out but across a moderate chop coming back in. It seemed like the wind blew from every direction and the waves formed like pyramids that the boat slid off of in every direction. The last mile was a challenge. Out at the far end of the lake we wound through a shady, quiet mangrove tunnel. It had one “limbo tree” to get under but we made it through. You can get all the way out into Florida Bay if you continue another 4 miles or so but there was lots more open water ahead and the wind was kicking up so we turned back. Overall, a good trip but watch the wind forecast if you have plans to head out this trail.
Paddling out to Coot Bay. We were on the water by 8am and it is much quieter than we expected. We spotted a handful of herons and egrets among the mangroves as we paddled out Buttonwood canal. An immature bald eagle glided overhead, the first we have seen here. 3 miles out plus a little loop in Coot Bay then we start back. Not surprisingly, we paddle against a headwind. We are entertained by the acrobatics of swallow-tailed kites and catch a look at an open-mouthed croc sunning among downed limbs.
It is a bit of a drive back out to Royal Palms but I wanted to check out the Anhinga Trail. It is a chance to catch up with Carol too, she is camping at Long Pine Key. First, Carol feeds us dinner: great chicken salad and wonderful key lime pie for dessert. There had been thunder storms earlier and still a little rumbling. We even ate indoors hiding from a short shower. We let our food settle a bit then headed out for the trail around 7PM. Evening can be a fun time for wildlife. The walk was pretty much a bust…we saw anhinga and a few egrets and only a couple alligators on the return side of the loop. Somebody flipped the bug switch just as we reached the far end and we found ourselves in the heart of an annoying mosquito swarm. Bug spray kept them somewhat at bay but we wrapped things up pretty fast after that. Carol rode out to Flamingo with us and spent the night on our couch so she could have a chance to explore our end of the park for a few hours.
I gave Carol the nickel tour at Flamingo. A couple manatees, the baby osprey, and a crocodile all made an appearance. We checked out the marina store and visitor center then gathered up Kent to head back to Long Pine with stops at a few high points along the way. It was getting pretty late in the day so it was hot and humid but we walked the West Lake and Mahogany Hammock boardwalks and did a bit of bird watching at a couple other stops. We delivered Carol home and polished off her leftovers for lunch. We were all looking forward to some relaxation in the air conditioning. We headed back to Flamingo for one more day in the park before we start our journey north. So long Carol. Current plans have us crossing paths next in NY for Miss Willa’s b’day.