The Marathon Drive East

Note, Kent is driving the motorhome pulling the big trailer and I am in the pick-up following.  Not the usual or preferred travel arrangement.  Start to finish we drive 2300 miles on mostly interstate highways (10, 20, 30 and 40) and log 41 hours in the truck seat over the span of 5 days.  On a positive note, traveling interstate at just under 60 the pickup gets 33.3 mpg for the trip, Yeah!

Once again, I am reminded to thank Kent for his thousands of hours behind the wheel over the years.  I definitely prefer watching the scenery!

Day 1:  We are up a little early to break camp and make one last check of the weather.   Rats, forecasts still expect 3-6 inches of snow on near Gallup NM.  So much for the shorter route taking I-40 all the way to Tennessee.  Looks like we are taking the southern route.  We connect the big trailer, loaded last night, and off we go. Our goal today is Bowie AZ.

 

Day 2:    Destination, Midland TX.  Turns out we planned a little too far for today and traffic through Dallas Fort Worth is terrible.  In Midland, road construction further delays arrival as closed frontage roads made getting to the RV park seemingly impossible.  We get separated and end up independently finding our way to camp facing glaring sun, dodging orange barrels and running slalom courses between narrowly spaced concrete barriers.   The sun is setting as we pull into camp.  To brighten up a long day, in what seemed like a good idea at the time, Lynn took a detour to get ice cream treats and bring some to Kent.  The motorhome rumbles along at under 60 while the speed limit here is 80.  So, the thought was she could run the speed limit, go ahead a few miles for a quick stop at Dairy Queen then catch up with the ice cream.  It didn’t work out quite as planned.  Ultimately, she fell 13 miles behind then speed limits dropped making her progress slower than calculated. She was just about caught up when we entered Midland.  Kent’s milkshake was a bit soft by the time he claimed it, in camp.

 

Day 3:  We are heading for Texarkana AR.  We are up and set to go earlier today to prevent another after dark arrival.  Not so fast, when we pulled in last night, I rhythmically put the stabilizing jacks down, then noted how soft the ground was and immediately pulled them back up.  Or maybe just part of the way back up, before I shut off the engine.  Whatever the cause, the jacks went into alarm when we tried to start out for the day.  So much for the early start!  Out comes the owner’s manual to refresh the error clearing button pushing sequence.  It seemed to clear…but nope, I still get an error.  It isn’t a glamorous solution but I disconnect power and communication wires to each jack.  Now it at least won’t do anything unexpected while driving down the road.  The controller still blinks and sounds an alarm but I can calm all that by turning it off then on again.  That will have to do for now.  We are heading out with repairs to be made at a later date.

Day 4: Today, Hurricane Mills TN, just east of the Tennessee River.  We catch a bit of traffic in Nashville morning rush hour but the day is otherwise pretty smooth.   I will call it cumulative driver fatigue but I just don’t feel like cooking tonight.  We head for the Log Cabin Diner.  Lynn tries the meatloaf with mashed potatoes recommended by locals and Kent some chicken fried steak.  All is good and portions generous.  We take a piece of pecan pie home for later.

 

Day 5:  Newland NC, where we are planning on month to month at Plumtree Campground until we find our place.  The day’s drive is thankfully a bit shorter than others and we wind our way back the holler to Plumtree Campground on Big Plumtree Creek Rd off twisty turny 19E. The whole place is terraced into a rolling mountainside and sites a bit smaller than described.  We drop the trailer and with the help of lots of leveling blocks lay claim to our home for a while, site D5.   The groundskeeper/host, Jimmy, is friendly and helpful as we settle in.

Change of plans

We have pretty much finished up Christmas shopping (lots of Amazon this year) and have no pressing home chores.  Weather is cool and windy interfering with the primary draw here in AZ, boating.  We are getting the itch to start our house search.  We pivot from plans to stay out west for the winter and pack up to head to Tennessee now.

Checking out the sights

Brian has to experience the Desert Bar

It is a bit of a drive south to Havasu City but we feel like Brian can’t come this far and not check out the Desert Bar (Nellie B Saloon). We have been and enjoyed this place several times but it is a bit different every time.  Well worth another visit.  The last 5 miles or so of the drive is dusty and bumpy, like always.  But wow, when we get there, we find the place nearly doubled in size.  There are official restaurants, in buildings not food trucks.  Lots more seating surrounding new stages and a huge new bar being built.  They have added restrooms, necessary of course but very boring and mundane compared to the original rustic ones.  There is live music and the band is pretty good – country and oldies rock.  Our first trip to the bar is a bit odd.  What we assume was a stand-in barkeep makes Kent a Margaretta, sort of.  Tequilla and soda water, yuck.  We climb around on the grounds to check out desert views and to scope out the place.     Food is pretty good and the atmosphere fun but I think too developed and the rustic charm is really diluted.  Probably won’t be back this way again.

We stop by Havasu City on our way home to show Brian that “Yes, the London Bridge is really here”.  We stroll, gaze at the lake a bit, shop a little and have dinner out at Burgers By the Bridge.  It is all lovely at twilight as holiday and city lights come on.

Hello burros

 

Another can’t miss when you’re out here, Oatman AZ.  Burros are plentiful today and of course we have to feed them.  We cruise all the shops then take in the gunfight.  It is a little underwhelming.  Just two guys show up and it feels a little unorganized but it is fun all the same.  The mics aren’t working so well making it hard to catch all the silly quips and repartee.     We enjoy lunch at the hotel restaurant…still love those burros ears potatoes, then head on home.

 

Down day

It is windy and cold.  No boating today.  Brian takes the opportunity to wander Fisherman’s trail until the winds whip up dust and bring him back home.

 

Fishing – even a little catching

We finally get a nice day to get out on Mohave Lake.   The sun is bright and warm and we manage to find a couple spots out toward Princess Cove where the fishies are biting.  The lake views are lovely and we hear a (makes me laugh every time) burro bray from across the lake.  It is a fun outing.

Spiders and snakes tortoise

We take Brian out the hike to Grapevine Canyon to see the petroglyphs.  The resident desert tortoise makes an appearance as do a number of large tarantulas.  We explore a bit more of the area while we are out.  It is a fun outing.

 

 

 

Who builds labyrinths anyway?

We head into Laughlin just to see what’s happening and check out an out of the extraordinary attraction, labyrinths.  We stroll the riverside walk.  It is a not-so-spectacular path between the river and back side of casinos but it does have a few nice benches to enjoy the river view.  Worth the steps but not worth repeating, I suppose.  I spot a sign for Pink Box Donuts.  Can’t skip that!  We (Kent and I do, Brian shows more restraint) choose from the assortment of elaborately decorated donuts and snap a pile of pictures.

Now we head to the edge of town in search of the aforementioned labyrinth(es).  After a little stumbling around with directions we come a long a flat spot in the desert to our left, a little parking area, and a tiny sign announcing we have arrived.  We stroll the area to find a half dozen or so elaborate rock paths.  It is all wonderfully done and pretty impressive.  Brian and I cannot resist walking several of them.  Ok, that was fun.

Thanksgiving

I haven’t made a full-blown Thanksgiving dinner in the motorhome since our first year (2010).  Today we have roast turkey – just the breast and carefully chosen so it fits in the 6 ½ clearance of my oven!  Homemade cranberry – thanks Kent for the suggestion, it is delicious.  Mashed potatoes and gravy (thanks Kinder bone broth gravy mix) of course, stuffing – bummed that can’t make any in the bird, and asparagus for our low carb guest.  It is all delicious.  I search out a keto friendly dessert, baked marscapone with blueberries.  That is a disaster – it separates into a water-logged spongey layer topped with congealed grease.  Awful!

Early birthday

Brian flies out on his birthday and we are in town tomorrow so we celebrate early with delicious grilled steaks and of course a cake.  Keto makes cake baking a challenge so I go with a mix this time, Duncan Heinz low carb brownie and premade keto icing.  It looks great and is actually pretty good.  Whew, not another dessert disaster.

 

 

Vegas Day

We head into town for the day and overnight to ease the early morning start to Brian’s travel day.  Our main event, Postcard from Earth at The Sphere at 2:30.  We have all morning to explore the strip and Brian is checking out a Marvel Comics attraction/exhibit.  Scaffolding and light towers still litter the strip causing the suspension of the fountain and other streetside attractions.  That is a bit disappointing but the walk is still lovely.

The Sphere is impressive. First just the structure, then the AI robots the crowd chats with, plus demos of the technology while we all wait in the atrium.  Crowds are too thick and lines too long to get scanned for our avatars…. Brian is the only one of us who actually regrets that!  We find our seats, section 405 isn’t bad, and anxiously await the show.  It is visually spectacular as the screen seems to wrap around us bringing creatures close and seemingly alive (spoiler alert, the spider does jump at you) and soaring mountain views are breath taking.  Sound plus theatre hepatics pull us further into the experience.   I do recommend it.  I am not certain how this all augments live music performances, perhaps?

We end the day with dinner at Peppermill Diner a Las Vegas Strip classic/landmark.  Neon lights and blue upholstered booths create a fun atmosphere. Diner is delicious and a fun way to end Brian’s visit.  If there is a next visit, we might check out their retro cocktail bar.  It looks fun.  We crash for the night at Arizona Charlie’s, an old school Vegas establishment well off the strip.  The focus is definitely the Casino.  It is difficult to even find the hotel lobby/registration desk.  In room amenities are sparce but the rooms are clean and pretty comfortable.  Oddest thing, a Rube Goldberg HVAC using plastic pipe and what looks like a planter box to divert air from the unit in the main room through the wall to the second bedroom.  Very weird and according to Brian not particularly effective.  An easy drive to the airport and comfortable enough for a one-night stay.

 

Happy Birthday and bye!

Brian is off to Texas to rest up a bit before it is back to school for the marathon schedule that falls between Thanksgiving and Christmas.  Visits from the kids are wonderful!

Company is coming

Brian is getting out of Texas for a week and he’s coming to spend that time with us.

We allow extra time for the trip into the Vegas airport.  The Formula 1 Grand Prix starts tonight. Many streets are closed and horrible traffic is predicted……luckily, none of it affects us.  We arrive in plenty of time to catch him at baggage claim.  We stick with our plan to save in-town tourist time for next weekend once the crowds have cleared.  It is a smooth ride home as well with a stop for BBQ along the way.  We end the day relaxing and getting Brian settled in.

After the winds

High winds kept us off the lake over the weekend but the forecast for the start of the week is much calmer.

Monday:  A bit lazy this morning, we hit the lake around 9:30.  An early light chop evolves into a smooth lake by noon.  We cruise a few miles north to Princess Cove, one of several coves where fish attractants have supposedly deployed along the east shore a little north of camp.  Kent scans the lake bed looking for claimed attractants but is never certain he spots any.  Fishing is pretty quiet, one tiny striped bass and 3 or so little (maybe tiny) bluegill. We are surprised to spot a coyote napping contentedly on the bank of one of the coves.  He raises his head a couple times to check us out but we leave him just where we found him when we motor off.  Look at those giant ears!

Tuesday: Maybe fishing is better earlier?  We are up and on the water by 7:30. We float fish a couple coves, try our hand at trolling, and even make a couple passes through the marina area where several fishermen have reported seeing “fish boiling”.  Nope, fishing is not better in the morning.  We return to camp with not as much as one bite.  I run a few errands and it is a quiet evening.  It is dark by 6 or so.

Happy Birthday to me!

Waffles for breakfast this morning! Thank you, Kent.  It is a quiet day in camp puttering and planning for Brian’s Thanksgiving week visit and the family Christmas get together.  Its windy for boating and actually a bit windy for hiking.  We check out a section of the lakeside trail and nearly get blown off our feet when it crests onto open ridges.  The Kingston grandkids check in on a super silly video call.  Hazel has the phone.  I love the well wishes even if it is all a bit dizzying.  Tonight is dinner out, Mohave Steakhouse in Bullhead City.  It is a local establishment and has great reviews.  I’m happy with it.  Artichoke spinach dip, tomato-gouda soup and a wonderfully seasoned, perfectly prepared, DelMonico steak.   Kent’s short ribs are pretty tasty too.

Yeah, happy birthday to me.  67, that’s not old!

Road Trip!

The motorhome is going into storage and we are making a 30 day 4800 mile loop in the truck.  It is a bit of a milk-run trip and we need wheels at every location so it seems to make more sense than flying.  We will see.  Our route: Houston – time with Brian, Louisville – time with Sayre family, Letart, WV – Kent’s 50th H.S. class reunion, York, PA – a little Wasik family time, and NY – Kingston family time and Willa’s 5th bday then back to South Fork CO to the rig.  Whew!

Day 1: CO 160 across Wolf Creek Pass at 10,857ft. It is a beautiful ride through a wide green valley then a climb into snow-capped mountains.  We make a stop and short hike to Treasure Falls. Swollen with snow-melt the water roars across the rock ledge and spray completely engulfs the upper observation deck.  I get drenched.  It is pretty cold up here!

We roll into camp, Grand View Cabins and RV, mid-afternoon and spend the rest of the day relaxing, packing, and watching a very friendly group of mule deer who make themselves at home in the campground.  One even beds down right by our picnic table.

I have a few hours so I trial Willa’s vanilla vegan b’day cake recipe.   What a mess!  It rose to the top of the pan but then fell to just ¾” high.  It tasted ok but the sugar sort of caramelized all around the edges and it stuck to the pan so bad I had to scrape it out.   I blame it all on a combination of a new recipes (my first foray into baked goods using aquafaba) and we are at over 8000 feet elevation.  I’m going to have to try this again once we get back to more normal conditions!

Day 2: The motorhome is all buttoned up and stowed away.  We point the truck southeast, Amarillo bound.  The road stretches in front of us straight and flat.  It is a bit windy.  Dark, stormy looking clouds many trailing streamers of heavy rain form and disperse in front, behind to the right and to the left.  Bolts of lightning streak to the ground.  It is amazing to watch.  We catch up to, or it catches us, some heavy rain.  No real problem but it does cool things off for a bit.  We spot prong horn antelope, some lone wanderers others in small bands chill’n and munching.  Weather is still unsettled when we make our stop in Amarillo.  Fortunately, the golf-ball sized hail produced by some storms never falls near us.

Day 3: panhandle to hill country.  We spot two prong horn calves, roll by cotton fields and even a gin, then discover that Texas is the second largest grower of peanuts in the US.  We are heading for Brenham TX with an eye out for spring wildflowers and looking forward to a stop at Blue Bell Creamery and a chance to sample a couple flavors.

Day 4: Washington on the Brazos SHS, all about the years of TX as a Republic – how it came to be, what it was like, what it means to TX and Texans today.  There is a huge Museum of the Republic here too.  We save that for another time.  Now we are off to Blue Bell!   They don’t do tours anymore but there is a great observation deck overlooking final production stages:  flavoring and packaging from single serving to 5-gallon tubs.  The newest flavor (Texas is all a-buzz) is Dr Pepper float. Nope, not for me!  We go for strawberry and southern blackberry cobbler and are very happy with our choices.  Next stop, Brian’s place.

Bluff Fort Historic Site

Hole -in-the -rock Pioneers made their way from Escalante to a new town site in southeast Utah (the then remote Four Corners area).  They named it Bluff.   What we see here now is a wonderfully complete reconstruction of the 1880 settlement.   Descendants have contributed items from the actual period and tell the stories of hardship and determination in the words as passed down through their families.  One can visit other sites along the Hole-in-the rock Trail.  They are very remote in rugged country.  We’ll settle for this insight into the journey.

The scope of the expedition to settle this area gives another glimpse into the expansion efforts of The Church of Latter-Day Saints during that time and the degree to which devoted followers were willing to subordinate their very lives to that effort.  It is difficult to fathom.

Petroglyphs nearly in town

Just 3 ½ miles west of Bluff along the San Juan River is a huge petroglyph panel.  Hundreds of figures cover the heavily patinaed sections of the cliffs along the river flood plain.  It is inside Sand Island campground in an area that sees lots of foot traffic.  There has been some vandalism but a great number of the figures are still visible.  We are on a scavenger hunt for a Columbian mammoth with a bison figure overlaid.  It is highlighted at the Education Center as it dates the site to over 13,000 years ago.  We didn’t find it but still, a fun and amazing stop.  I wonder what the original authors are thinking as they hear us speculate as to the intent of these writings.

Into Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

We stopped to snap a few pictures as we drove by this park back on the 5th.  Today we are “in” for the 17-mile loop drive among the mesas, buttes, and spires.  There are a few nuances to the visit since this place is run by the Navajo Nation Parks rather than he US National Parks Service but the experience is mostly familiar.

We are up before 6am and on the road early hoping for ‘best light’ on the rock formations.  We are through the entry booth (bummers our senior pass is no good here) and on the loop drive before 8. The road is not as bad as many reviews declared but not great either.  Kent makes it around in 2-wheel drive, so not too bad.  Prominent buttes are named, some easily identified like “the mittens” others like “the elephant” require a bit more imagination and a view from just the right angle. It is cool to wind our way among them as shadows change with the rising sun angle.  My favorite is probably the totem pole and adjacent dancers, The Yei Bi Chei. We leave with a lot of pictures!  I am not certain which drive is the more impressive, Monument Valley or Valley of the Gods.  Monument Valley is immense and the raw scale as we move through it makes one feel small in comparison.  The drive through the narrower Valley of the Gods brings us closer to the features making it seem like a more personal experience.  Both could be improved by removing distracting human intrusions: boondocking RVs all over Valley of the Gods and rooftops of homesteads among the buttes of the Tribal Park.  Both have tipped too far in the scale balancing right-to-use and preservation, in my opinion.  But yes, I too would have loved to have spent a silent night under a star-filled sky in Valley of the Gods.