Angels Landing is one of those bucket list hikes.  It is a precarious narrow-ledge, chain-aided, spur trail off West Rim high above the valley floor atop immense vertical cliffs.  It requires a permit – we don’t have one AND it seems just too un-nerving.  We do the sane thing and stick with the West Rim to Scout Lookout.

This morning, West Rim Trail.  Since we are camping on the east side of the park, we go through the mile long tunnel and down the spectacular entrance switchbacks from the high lands into the canyon.  It is a beautiful ride.  We head for the Visitor Center at 7AM.  An 8 o’clock arrival makes parking a breeze and gets us on a shuttle and to the trailhead before 9.   It is perfect timing for avoiding crowds everywhere and making our way up cliff faces in the shade!  We even start out in jackets.

The trail starts with steep switchbacks, has a cool, quiet middle section though Refrigerator canyon, then resumes with even steeper switchbacks.  They name the top set of the steepest ones Walter’s Wiggles.  At 2 ½ miles up with a 1000 ft elevation change it is plenty challenging.   The trail is carved into cliff faces much of the time with dramatic drop offs and sweeping views of Zion Valley and surrounding cliffs.

Condors soar above us; sometimes roosting nearly at our same height.  We can even see one’s wing tag, J3.  He is the proud papa of two wild born Condors in the canyon and the same fellow we saw on the nesting ledge days ago.

Back on the ground we stop for lunch at the lodge then head on home to relax.  Tomorrow is another day in Zion.

Up early for the trip into town to be there when they open.  After a brief warmup it’s off and UP on I-15 through the Virgin River Gorge.  A Long hard pull coming out of camp with a slightly warm engine.  One of the quirks of this engine setup is the fan runs to cool the turbo intercooler whenever you are above 3,000-3,500 ft. regardless of the engine coolant temperature so.  Getting a real warmup before starting uphill is nearly impossible.  Off we go and guess what, the oil pressure and tach are acting normal this morning.  After discussing the situation with the mechanic and looking at his computer readouts it appears we have a faulty connection powering the ECM(engine control module) and the 6 year old batteries are below par.  So, a couple of new connectors, batteries and hours later we are good to go. Yeah, seemed a whole lot more serious the other day.

The motorhome oil pressure ran higher than usual on our way out of Vegas.  Kent changed the oil filter but there is no improvement.  We are extending our stay here near St George with an appointment at a local diesel mechanic shop early tomorrow.  His best guess based on Kent’s description is a gauge failure.  Let’s hope so as that is surely the quickest repair turnaround. More to come on this.

A vast tract of land here in northern Nevada and Arizona is held in the Gold Butte National Monument and The Grand Canyon Parashant.  BLM maintained roads, a portion (occasionally) graded gravel and many more dune buggy two tracks provide the only access.  The Focus was just not the right tool for exploring, but now we have our little pick-up and we are going to check off two more National recreation/conservation destinations on our list.  We are heading out into the back country to Pakoon Springs sort of south west of Mesquite. We pack lots of water, lunch and snacks, warm clothes, tools, a tow rope, first aid kit…….We are ready, having heeded cautionary advice from official and not-so-official blog sources.

Just off I15 we turn onto the Back Country Byway, Gold Butte Road.  Ok, no sweat.  It is paved, at least it has been paved quite some time ago.  It is rough and a bit potholed with low spots where washes cross and bulldozers push mounds of sand and rock aside.  It is mostly flat or shallow grade as we first follow the banks of the Virgin River then start a gradual climb.  We average about 10mph for the first 20 miles.  At Whitney Pocket we make a turn and so do the road conditions.  The next 12 miles it is a graded path with loose rocks and sand.  Thankfully the road crew has been through here recently enough that there are no deep ruts nor cavernous washouts.  We climb a ridge with the grade exceeding 12% in places.  Things get a bit more dicey as we pass Aravada Springs and Nyes Ranch in a narrow cut with steep grade and a few more washed out spots.  With a gentle touch on the accelerator, Kent makes the whole drive out without even using 4-wheel drive.  A challenging drive but not as scary as many suggested.  Signs along the way remind us that even a little rain would have made it a whole different adventure.  We might have needed some of that stuff we brought along.  We did eat our lunch!  The return drive is made easier and a bit quicker using 4-wheel drive.  The entire outing is about 5 ½ hours.

Was it worth the drive?  I think so.

We know this terrain pretty well by now but it still amazes.

Our journey starts in the wide Virgin River valley then cuts through narrow passes across rubble strewn mountain ridges.  We come upon enormous sandstone monoliths; red or white, smooth or knife edged, and laced with erosion holes, seemingly just dropped among the otherwise grey-brown landscape.  Silver grey washes slice down the slopes.

Moisture and temperature drive the vegetation.  Most common is the deep green of creosote bush (they are not blooming yet here) punctuated with scattered clumps of brilliant yellow long stemmed desert asters and weird looking dull yellow cheesebush.    Just when I think there is nothing more out there, I see a splash of orange or the brilliant red of Indian Paintbrush. A purple lupine-like spike makes a solitary showing or in just the right conditions a vast field of yellow poppies (the protected Las Vegas poppies here) covers huge expanses among and beneath the creosote.  At highest elevation pinion pine add there unique green and scent.  The biggest impact of water is seen at the springs scattered along the drive.  We pass three springs that are privately owned and operated as businesses, a spa, a horse training facility and the one furthest in, Aravada, a campground/retreat.  Pakoon Springs is oversee by the BLM and minimally managed, not at all developed.  A stout fence encircles the area to keep livestock and pesky burros from tromping the spring head.  Here, trees tower above thick under growth.  We see many animal tracks, bees and bugs buzz and the scents are completely different.  The effect spills on down the mountainside as a huge meadow and green wash.  An amazing oasis.

Wildlife is sparce but enough to keep me watching.

Kent spots at Willet – what is a shore bird doing here?  For now, standing statue-still among the sand and creosote bushes.  A big horn sheep makes a mad dash along the ridge line just above our path.  Silky flycatchers (Phainopepla) hang out near giant balls of mistle toe.  At Pakoon, a desert cottontail goes zig-zagging among the cover of shrubs and clusters of robins mob bush to bush.  Two California quail call out seemingly playing Marco-Polo across the meadow.

It was a good outing; but we agree, no dune buggy or off-road super jeep in our future.  Our little pick-up will get us out as far and often as we are likely to want to go.

We watch from camp as sheets of rain sweep from clouds to the northeast.  We can see it and recognize the distinct smell as it reaches sun baked desert earth.  None falls where we are but it’s not far away.

We have to check out St. George.  It has a carousel and “the best bakery in Utah”.  Nothing opens until 11AM so there is plenty of time to wander a camp trail that takes us along the riverside cliffs.  The river is flowing fairly high fed by considerable high elevation snow.  We have to go off trail when the trail becomes unpassable (at least to our liking) but it’s a nice walk.  Now we are off to town.  Stop 1: Farmstead Bakery/Café.  The BLT with mozzarella on baguette is delicious.  My caramel apple fritter (baked) is yummy.  Kent’s blueberry croissant is magnificent.  Possibly the best croissant I have ever had.  Well worth the stop.  We find the carousel in town square.  I ride of course…as always, can’t help but smile.

Downtown is lovely to stroll.  We stop at the visitor center and make our way back to camp for a lazy afternoon.

Kent is leading in the fish count; two to my one and he now has the largest (barely), 2.84lbs.

Wait A minute, interruption, a roadrunner just zipped through the site across from us!  We saw him earlier today posing atop a ridge seeming to warm in the morning sun.  It is fun to see them close up.

Calm winds and light boat traffic gave us a smooth boat ride this morning.  We scouted for big horn again but no luck.  Fishing was pretty good.  Kent caught one and had another on the line but it slipped the hook before he could bring it in.  We spotted many more through the crystal-clear water to depth of around 25 feet.  Most just didn’t seem to want what we were offering. Time on the lake was amazingly quiet filled only with sounds of the wild around us.  We end our lake time with cooling dip ….. a short one.  62F is pretty cold!

Hummingbirds frequent the oleander planted all around camp and the feeders long-term campers have out.  California quail scurry about; two cross in front of us as we take an evening stroll.  House wrens warble and dart from bush to bush.  Red wing black birds and grackles fill the air with a seemingly endless repertoire of squeaks, whistles and guttural sounds.  Doves and crows add their distinctive calls to the chorus.

While I was shuttling Willa home, Kent moved the motorhome from Mohave Preserve to Katherine Landing on Lake Mohave.  We are planning for a week or two of quiet lake time.  It is beautiful here.  Crystal clear blue water of the lake is bordered by craggy mountains painted red, brown and grey, some with a wash of pale green and all dotted with wildflowers.  We spotted big horn sheep from the boat this morning and I caught our first fish, a 2.8 lb bass.  Tonight there is to be clear skies and the moon is just a sliver.  Star gazing should be fantastic.