Dinosaurs

Today we head for Dinosaur National Monument, the Utah side, home of the Quarry Exhibit Hall.  We pass through miles of sage brush plain and make a steep switchback climb up a lush green valley then across Douglas Pass.  This north west corner of Colorado and even more so the neighboring Utah is cool terrain.  Enormous geologic uplift has tilted and deformed layer upon layer of sedimentary rock exposing bands of color cut through by ridges of sandstone.  Maybe not exactly beautiful but certainly amazing.

This end of the monument is all about dino bones.  Some 149 million years ago, a raging river carried and buried bones of at least 10 species of dinosaurs in this one valley.   It is the site of a huge dig that began in 1908.  Like at most digs, lots of bones have been removed and sent to various museums.  The cool thing here, the on-site exhibit is a section of the dig.  A vertical wall of earth with 1500 dinosaur bones all excavated to expose them but left in place, exactly as they were deposited millions of years ago.  One section of the wall still contains a nearly complete skeleton of a Camarasaurus, one of those long necked, long tailed planteaters. It is cool to try to spot all the pieces like a giant puzzle.  Plus, we get to touch actual dino bones.  Very cool.  Check it out.

We make a quick stop to check out pictographs and petroglyphs but save exploration of the rest of the monument for another, cooler time.  There is lots more to see besides dino bones.

We are spending the night in Green River campground here on the Monument.  Most of the sites are among majestic cottonwoods along the river bank. Late in the day clouds are building.  We can see sheets of rain reaching for the ground on nearby mountains along with flashes of lightning.  Occasionally a light sprinkle makes it to the ground here.  It is amazing to watch.  It reminds me of watching storms develop and approach in Nebraska when I was a kid. I still love it.  Just about dark a mule deer browses its way past our site between us and the river.  This is a dark sky park but it’s a bright half-moon and a there are still a few scattered clouds.  It is a beautiful night but too much light to find the Milky Way.  Another time.

On to the western slope

From atop the mesa we saw the Grand Valley of the Colorado River.  Today we head into the valley to check out The Colorado National Monument and all that the Grand Junction area has to offer.  The forecast is for blistering heat, triple digits most days, so we know exploring is going to have to happen early in the day.  I get a C in geography today.  I had to look up why it is called the western slope. Dah, the western side of the Continental Divide. Not to be confused with the eastern side that they call The Front Range.  Ok.

We settle in at Saddlehorn campground near the highest elevations of the monument.  It is a nice view over the valley but not high enough to get much of a break from the mid-day heat.  We check out the visitor center and make an initial pass along Rim Rock Drive through what is a small version of the big red-rock Utah parks.  There are colossal and intricate monoliths, windows and towering cliffs.  The route takes us down into the valley.  We have been having a hankering for Colorado beef so we head for a local favorite, Cattleman’s Bar and Grill in nearby Loma.  Turns out it is actually at the cattle auction barn….kind of a rustic setting but pleasant and welcoming.  We go for steak of course, Kent a sirloin and I prime rib.  Both are seasoned nicely and perfectly prepared as ordered.  Kent’s is actually more tender but mine is quite good as well.  I have to try the peach cobbler (Palisades is right here and they are known for excellent peaches).  Glad I tried it, a bit cakier than I expected but delicious. We leave with a giant doggie bag, portions are huge. We have a bit of excitement on the way home.  A band of big horn sheep appears in the roadway just at the exit of one of the rock tunnels on Rim rock Drive.  They cross and seemingly fly up a nearly vertical cut to the flatland above the road.  What a great way to end the day.

Collared Lizard

It’s 5:30AM, a beautiful, cool morning.  A quick breakfast and we are at the Lower Monument Canyon trailhead by 6:30. Combining Lower Monument with Wedding Canyon trail we make a 5-mile loop into the central canyon to the foot of Independence Monument.  It is a bit of a climb passing red rock, pinion pine and juniper.  Flycatchers and black throated sparrows flit and chip around us.  An amazingly acrobatic swift evades repeated swoops of a pursuing hawk high above the cliff tops.  Near the half way mark, oncoming hikers let us know that there are big horn sheep in the valley just ahead. Wonderful.  Around the next turn we find first a band of ewes and young then spot an older male with impressive horns.  Across the trail a regal looking old fellow sits quietly along with a ewe and two young.  They all watch cautiously but continue to munch and mill around the area.  We move on leaving them to find their site to bed down for the heat of the day.  Beyond Independence Monument we spot a ewe and one lamb.  Great walk.  It’s 90 by the time we leave the trail around 10:30. We are glad we got an early start.Collared Lizard

I’ve been planning a stop at the Dream Café.  It is a local bakery in town and not far out of our way.  They claim to have the biggest, best cinnamon rolls in town and we feel like we earned one.  We end up actually having brunch there and have to take the cinnamon roll home in a doggie bag.  We hang out in camp for the rest of the afternoon and evening. I take in the ranger program, The symphony of the Monument.  It is a fun talk about the significance of soundscapes and the importance of protecting them as well as the visual landscapes of parks.

Next, a day in town.  We sleep in then head for a local candy shop, Enstrom’s.  Their claim to fame is Almond Toffee and it is fantastic.  We hang out watching them make candy cooking it in big copper pots, pouring it to cool on a refrigerated table, smoothing, coating with chocolate and then with ground almonds.  Teams of two work at four tables along with another 3 or so floating among them to support measuring, cleaning and charging the copper pots.  All synchronized.  They make a lot of toffee.  I sample the toffee and we both sample store made ice cream.  Now it is time for errands: haircuts and laundry.  We finish up in time to spend the rest of the hot afternoon at a movie, Indiana Jones.  It took me a beat just to figure out how to buy tickets.  It’s all touch screen now and most are set up just to scan the prebought ticket on one’s phone.  I get to the right touchscreen and find the show, choose two tickets then get a seating chart.  Did I want to upgrade my seats?  Geeze, I just want to see a movie.  I get it figured out and we find our seats…not sure there could be a bad one or one to pay a premium for in this small theater.  But hey, we are happy with ours. The movie is really just a giant rehash of all the best chase and fight scenes from past Indiana Jones movies.  The plot is pretty lame and predictable; but, for Indiana Jones fans it was a fun couple hours.

Our last day here is very laid back.  My one objective, find a fruit market and get some of those highly acclaimed Palisades peaches.  The earliest varieties are in season and we find a few ripe and ready to eat at a little family market not far from camp.  We select a couple vine ripe tomatoes as well and pay in the honor jar.  While we are out, we stock up on groceries.  Our next week or so is back out in the boonies in the National Forest.  It’s hot when we get home.  We kick on the generator and the ac for a couple hours for a lazy afternoon.

Onto the Mesa

Today it’s up onto the Mesa.  We start out early hoping to optimize wildlife sighting and to avoid the thunderstorms forecast nearly every afternoon. Once on top of the mesa we drive out to Observation Point.  A mostly well-maintained gravel road crosses through mixed forest and open meadows. Wildflowers are spectacular with predominant colors changing area by area based on moisture, shade, wind and I don’t know what else.  Wild life viewing continues to be disappointing.  We see cattle, they have grazed livestock here for decades, and very tame chipmunks at the observation point.  Below us from the point we look out across a wide arid valley sided by basalt capped cliffs and eroded slopes painted muted rust and tan.  Smooth mounds are scattered on the valley floor, oddly placed and shaped.  All this the product of eons of erosion as the Gunnison and Colorado Rivers come together here.  Now, man has made our own mark as the city of Grand Junction and local agriculture with its associated irrigation have created a sprawling green-grey oasis.  I wonder what it looked like when only the ribbons of green of the two rivers traced along the valley floor?  Heading back from the point we hike the Raber Cow Cabins trail thigh high through the flowering meadows and among cabins dating from early ranching days.  I could look at this view every morning.

 

 

 

Back in the lake section we walk the banks of Mesa Lake.  It is lovely, mostly shaded and cool.  We had been warned about mosquitoes and we find them on this trail.   Even with plenty of repellant they find us if we dally too long or disturb the brush.  Fishing is a big thing up here and we see quite a few rainbow trout in the clear lake.

Tootsie Pop pain

Thankfully its only figurative pain but still…what a pain.  Kent pulled the crown off of a molar with the sticky chewy center of a tootsie pop.  The tooth already has a root canal so no physical pain but he is on the hunt for a dentist who can get him in and take care of it before he breaks the tooth or something.  Just two calls in and he is set with Ruby Canyon Dental in Grand Junction.  It’s a nice office with friendly staff and they soon find that yes, the tooth is still sound and they can do a same day crown replacement for just $1500.  We are wrapping our heads around the dollar amount while musing over the xrays they have up when we learn exactly how crowns are done.  Shazam, that little piece Kent saved the other day isn’t a broken piece, it’s the whole thing AND if it is not damaged, they can just glue it back in place. For about $250.  Well, we didn’t throw it away but its back at the motorhome an hour away.  There is a flurry of discussion among dentist and staff ending with the decision to reconvene tomorrow with the loose crown and make the call, new cap or reglue.  The short story, $275 and Kent is good to go.  The old crown is back in place.

Grand Mesa Colorado

Billed as ‘The largest’ or ‘One of the largest’ flat top mountains in the world, it is high at 10,000+ feet and it is huge.  It is also tree covered and dotted with hundreds of lakes, quite different from the vast high desert and the sage brush ranges flanking it on three of its sides far below.  We approach from the south up Colorado 65 on a steep climb of 6000 feet above the plains with our first stop the visitor center in Cedaredge then on to camp at Vega State Park. Kent is glad to just be pulling the little truck rather than the big trailer.  Once we reach the top, I am on wildlife watch.  They reintroduced moose here about 25 years ago and the herd now numbers in the 400s.  They also claim mule deer, elk, black bear and marmots.  It is wildflower season too so always something for me to watch for while Kent watches the road.  The route zig-zags between lakes in the center of the mesa.  It is a beautiful ride with amazing views.  Stops to explore further will wait until we safely settle the motorhome and are back out and about in the truck.

Now I’m a bit bummed.  We, more specifically I, completely misjudged the location of our camp.  Vega is all the way back down off the north side of the mesa and another 20 miles across the hot arid landscape. It is in the mid 90s when we get here.   Its just not what I’ve been imagining.  I thought I’d wake up early the next few mornings in the cool wilderness camp and just step out to watch for wildlife and relax in the evenings in that same setting.  Instead, it’ll be a long arduous drive we will make maybe once or twice.  Like I said, not what I have been envisioning.  On the bright side, our site is on the sunflower blanketed shore of a lovely little lake and we see deer, a falcon, and osprey plus a number of other familiar birds.

A trail closer to home

A trail listed as hiking and equestrian only leaves from the back of camp and passes through wilderness area for its entire length.  That’s our plan for today.  Just into the hike the trail turns to cross Lottis Creek, no bridge.  The water is high and fast, too much to wade through in boots.  We detour 1/4 mile or so up-creek to find a log large enough that we brave crossing.   We return to the trail to weave through thick forest along the creek path. We spot a deer and numerous scat piles that look like elk might at least pass through.  A section of the creek looks like perfect beaver and moose habitat. We dawdle and check it out; but, no moose.  No beaver.  We spot a perfect marmot rock pile and spend our break scanning for movement.  Nope, no marmots.  We turn back about 3 miles out the trail and trace our steps back to camp. The trail follows a slight slope so not too strenuous; add the sound of the creek tumbling across boulders on its way downhill and the cool forest shade to make for a nice morning walk.

We have been pleasantly surprised that camp has not been over-run by off road vehicles

Wildflowers here we come

After a quiet night, we are on a mission to check out the wildflowers.  This weekend is actually the last couple days of the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival and there have been many reports of how amazing they are this year.  We choose one of the festival recommended trails, Snodgrass Mountain, head out pretty early for the drive to put us on the trail by 8:30 or so.  The area is amazing with entire hillsides painted mostly shades of yellow but dotted with purple, blue, red, white and orange.  Snow capped peaks ring the valley along with the namesake crested butte.  Wow!  We hike about 4 miles through meadows and treed terrain.  What a great time of year to be here.

North from town a driving loop reaches further up into the mountains.  Kent’s up for a bit more challenging driving, this is NOT all paved.  We start out high above then along the East River and the lush green valley that envelopes it.  I spot an elk.  Cool.  Wildflowers are still around but the show now is the surrounding mountains.  We get lots of pictures and find a spectacular lunch spot. The pictures don’t do it justice.  Two marmots cavort on the rock pile providing lunchtime entertainment.  We won’t be finishing the loop drive.  We meet a Crested Butte bound driver who reports that some earlier driver overestimated his skills and is stuck in remaining snow pack.  They have blocked the road and no one is getting through.  So, home we go.

Crested Butte, the wildflower capital of Colorado

We head out today for the first of two stops to explore the high mesas of central/western Colorado. The area is sparsely populated and nearly all designated as National Forest.  We make our way along US50 west again, in the motorhome this time, to cross Monarch Pass and on to Gunnison where we turn on to county and forest routes.  The last 17 miles climb Taylor Canyon sharing the tree-shrouded route with the Taylor River.  We settle in then set out to explore on up the canyon to Cottonwood Pass.

Turns out I missed a detail or two in my planning research. First, this entire national forest corridor has been specifically designed for off road vehicle recreation.  Everything from dirt bikes to quads to full size off-road vehicles can run these trails.  The word to hikers, watch out!  Had I known, we likely would have steered clear.  But, here we are.  Second, lots of online sources describe the road to Cottonwood Pass as rugged, high clearance, 4-wheel drive only.  Not!  The entire distance is now paved.

On up to Cottonwood Pass. There are switchbacks and hairpin curves and quite a bit of traffic but the drive is lovely and pretty easy.  We are in the Sawatch Range and the pass is at 12,119 ft elevation, the highest paved crossing of the continental divide in the US.  We hike up another couple hundred feet to an amazing view on a trail that winds through a wildflower covered alpine meadow.  It is beautiful in every direction. Trails go on from here but we hang for a bit then head back down then to camp for a quiet evening. The host says there was a bear in camp last week.  I’ll believe it when I see it!

Monarch Pass

We go for an easy day today.  First, a quiet stroll along the river in Salida where we watch “surfers” ride the whitewater and enjoy morning sweet treats from Little Red Hen Bakery.  The lemon bar and three berry muffin are both wonderful. I love the name of the place.  We found it last time we came through and are glad to see it is still in business.

Then, we are on to Monarch pass via US50 to check out the view from 11,312 feet and with a gondola ride up to the top, 12,000ft.  The gondola ride is a bit exciting as the cars bounce in the wind.  It is clear and we see Pikes Peak and The San Juan Mountains, about 80 miles.  We hang and enjoy the views for a bit then are on our way.  The rest of the day is filled with some shopping to restock and prep to move tomorrow.  On to Crested Butte and a quiet National Forest Campground, Lottis Creek.

Into the Wilderness

The front or west side of Browns Canyon National Monument protects the Arkansas River Canyon while allowing lots of development in all but the canyon proper. The east side is a Wilderness Study area with no development and access only by foot or horseback. Often these wilderness areas are great for wildlife viewing since they see much lower visitor traffic and typically require a long hike through front country to access. Here, it looks like we can drive a back route to a remote trailhead and jump right in. We are going to check it out.
Its forecast to be 93F today and we should have gotten a bit earlier start but the trail is in the national forest so we anticipate some pretty good shade and its just 30 some miles to the trailhead. We should be ok.
Just out of Salida we start dirt road. It is a bit narrow and quite twisty but good dirt road as we wander past the vacation homes built above town. Settlement stops and the road condition deteriorates. It is narrower and rougher and twistier as we wind our way around a quarry. It is all county routes and with each number change the road seems a bit less frequently maintained. We come upon a mountain town, Turret. Every single side street has big no trespassing and private property sign with warning to stay on the county route. All other property is overseen by the Turret HOA. Stay out. Ok, we stay to our route and carry on. Now we are definitely on the road less traveled. Brush is encroaching from both sides and wildflowers share the two-track path. Drainage is accomplished by cutting a ditch across the road and loose rock is strewn across steep climbs. We pass through sandy sections and many sections too steep to see the road over the hood or so tight a turn there is no way to tell if any one is coming. Turns out that isn’t a problem. We don’t meet another vehicle anywhere along the narrow route. Our little truck is in low gear 4-wheel drive but doing all that Kent asks of it. We are about 8 miles out what we think will be 10 miles of terrible road when, silence. The truck just shuts off. OMG, what’s that about. We still wonder; but it started right up like nothing happened. Whew! Ultimately washouts and steep roadcuts make it impassable. Kent backs to a wide spot and we hike in what turns out to be the last ¼ mile to the trailhead.
This is why we came here, a walk through wild space with hopes of seeing deer maybe elk and maybe even bear. It is rugged and beautiful as we move along first an old two track road then dry stream beds. Granite monoliths rise high above us with pinon pine and juniper in the valleys between them. We do notice there is not much shade and that the trail is often soft sand underfoot. Neither is what we were expecting. We manage to get off trail following the path of what must have been a trail ride. We wind up trailblazing up and down three ridges and their associated troughs. It’s getting hot and we are a bit tired and exasperated at the difficulty finding the trail. One more climb and tada, we are back on the trail and heading for high ground where we find fantastic long mountain views out over the valley to surrounding 14000s. We are feeling the heat and elevation so cut the hike a bit short and head back. So far one cottontail and a couple chipmunks. Good thing the views were nice.
We take quite a few breaks but make it safely to the truck. Retrace our route along the backcountry roads. Head on back to camp and collapse in the air conditioning.
Overall. It is a beautiful, quiet hike. The drive out to the trailhead is probably too much. If you do go, you definitely do not want to do it on a 90+ day in the brilliant sun. And don’t forget your hat.