Pikes peak

Kent has been itching to drive up this mountain.  Today is the day.  We sign up for the 8-10 time slot and find the highway nearly to ourselves as we set out.  The super helpful gate keeper hints that we save enroute stops for the downhill.  It is supposed to get very windy later in the morning.  Sounds smart.  Kent sticks to the speed limit as we climb and swish through first smooth curves then tight switchbacks.  I’m pretty sure he is enjoying it!  We near the top.  The outside temperature has dropped to 39 and the wind already pretty strong. A yellow-bellied marmot prances around on the snow.  There’s some chance he’s looking for a hand out.  Our little pick-up made the ascent no problem. We climb out and put on all the clothes we brought with us and make our way to the visitor center.  Its new since I was here with Mom and Carol.  Nearly all the area is paved or platforms so very easy to get around and signboards are well done.  Stop one, the snack bar and Pikes Peak donuts.  The cinnamon sugar ones are definitely better.  We check out exhibits and the gift shop then just relax with the view for a while.

 

We are both noticing 14000 foot elevation!  Going down.  We make an emergency stop as one of those adorable but obviously not brilliant marmots dashes in front of us.  We pull off at nearly every stop on the way back down to oh and ah at the views and check for wildlife on the high meadows.  Unfortunately, no luck with that.  Kent might share his own take on it but from my perspective, it was a fun day.

They are big on sasquatch on the mountain.

 

 

 

 

 

We make a short stop in Manitou springs for a spring water tasting tour.  Town is busy and parking is a pain but we do find a spot and sample 5 of the 8 springs from varyingly ornate bronze fountains. They are all some variation of salty and metallic tasting but each has its own unique flavor based on pH and the minerals it contacts as it moves underground.  My thoughts, none is really great tasting but the Navajo is the east objectionable.  Iron Springs is as you might expect, irony; but it is fizzy enough that it sort of grows on you.  It was interesting to compare. A stop at Colorado custard is the perfect post-tasting palette cleansing.

Moving on

We are settled in at Pueblo Lake State Park for a little more south Colorado time.  The move from Alamosa to Pueblo was short and uneventful.  We are in Juniper Breaks unpowered campground and it is hot, 90+.  We check out the visitor center across the lake and, you’ll never believe it, the closed swim area….I think it’s a staffing thing.  There is no convenient lake access from camp but there is a breeze so we hang in the shade for the evening.

Mountain Drive

We drive CO-17 that parallels the route of our train ride on the Cumbres and Toltec.  It is a beautiful drive and gives us opportunity to get some great rolling pictures of the train.  We spot a few elk along the way and scope out access places to trail heads and campgrounds in the Carson and Rio Grande National Forests.  This could be a great site for future adventure.    

We make a stop in Chama for lunch at the Boxcar Café – got to love that railroad theme.  My turkey with green chili sandwich is delicious and Kent reports his fish and chips the same.  It’s a fun little spot for outdoor dining.

Monte Vista NWR

Monte Vista is home to a small Amish enclave, about 30 families.  As we drive through the area there are similarities to the PA and IN Amish.  One big difference, they farm with tractors.  I see only a couple Half-Lingers in a paddock along with lots of buggy horses.  We are excited about one great constant, bakeries.  We stop at” Worth the Drive” bakery and walk away with a free glazed yeast donut (nice touch), 3 fried pies, and a loaf of white bread. Pie rating: a tie between strawberry rhubarb and blueberry then pecan.

We roll through the 2 ½ mile drive at Monte Vista NWR and find lots of blackbirds and the usual collection of ducks. Nothing spectacular.  I do find it amazing to move through this lush landscape in such an overall arid environment.  Thankyou snow melt!

We make a stop at Bontrager Variety Store, just because.  Product ranges from the everyday like shoes, hats, toys and mixing bowls to some spectacular chiming clocks.  There is a section for solar panels and lithium batteries too.

We head back to camp for the afternoon but must squeeze in one more stop in Alamosa, Frosty acres Rolled Ice Cream.  We watch as they prepare our choices, a Jitterbug and an El Rancho.  The Jitterbug: coffee flavored cream with slivered almonds then whipped cream and caramel drizzle.  The El Rancho: cream with graham cracker, chocolate and caramel drizzle topped with whipped cream and a toasted marshmallow.  The process: cream is poured onto a subzero steel plate, stir-ins quickly added then all smoothed out to flash freeze.  Wielding a narrow bench scraper, the artist rolls sections into a tight jellyroll shape and stacks them in your cup.  Toppings are added.  Voila, rolled ice cream.  Great to watch and beautiful to behold.  We enjoy the eating part too!

A waterfall (almost) and aliens

Zapata Falls on nearby BLM and state-owned land isn’t huge, just 24 feet tall but a bit of an oddity in this dry landscape.   We head out around 9 to check it out.  At the trail head we find a sign warning us that to actually see the falls one has to hike about ½ mile up the running creek bed.  Darn, none of my research told me that!  We give it a try anyway.  Maybe the water level will be manageable?  Nope.  We hike the dry first half mile or so and find that we will have to wade at least high-ankle deep the entire remaining route to the falls and neither of us are in suitable shoes.  It sounds beautiful….we settle for that and head back.

Since we are pretty early off the trail, we take a side trip to check out The UFO Watchtower. It’s been on my list since we got here.   What a joke.  It is definitely an “anything for a buck” place not the serious sort of alien believers we have found at Roswell and Marfa.  Probably worth the $5 each for entertainment value!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We lunch at Emma’s Authentic Food of the Southwest in Alamosa.   It is a small family place a little higher priced than most Mexican-like food establishments but the service is great and the food delicious.  I have stuffed sopapilla Christmas (green and red chillis) and Kent tries Emma’s Special, a taco, burrito, refried beans (excellent) and a sopapilla with honey butter.  I’d do it again.

Day two at Great Sand Dunes

We are off to explore some of the forested sections that front the dunes along Medano Pass Primitive Road that tracks along Medano Creek.  We know before we start that we can’t go past the 6th creek crossing since water is high and there is lots of mud.  Many are getting stuck.  We hope to get that far.  One mile in and we encounter “deep, soft sand” warning signs with advice to reduce air pressure to navigate.  Rats, too daunting.  We park at “The Point of no Return” and set out on foot.  Sand Ramp Trail runs along the forest edge with some nice views of the dunes but the mosquitos are thick and ruthless.  We make it 2.5 miles out then turn back, actually opting to walk back the road to avoid the buggiest sections.  All told we see 2 cottontails and a green tailed towhee, not a wonderful critter count.  We dally a bit to wade in Medano Creek cooling our toes in the ever-changing flow streams.  We make a couple more stops (in breezy areas) to enjoy views.  We are relieved to get back to the truck but unhappy that we made the trek.

Great Sand Dunes

It is a chilly 42F when we roll out of bed at 6:45. Weather Underground forecasts 82 by mid-day with brilliant bright sun and humidity around 22%.   If we are going sand dune climbing, we better get going. We grab a quick breakfast and are at the trail head by 8:20. Wow, there are tons of mosquitoes.  The NP web page warned there could be but, it seemed they might be exaggerating.  This is high desert after all!  Nope, they decend upon us in clouds and even with repellant we scurry out of vegetation onto the wind-swept sand field to find relief.  Medano Creek originates as snow melt high in the Sangre De Cristo mountains and wraps around this side of the dune field.  It has reduced in flow since spring peak but it is still amazing to see it here.  I take off my shoes and splash through the wonderfully cool braided rivulets.  We witness pulse flow; a phenomenon caused as temporary sand dams in the flow form and collapse with the water flow.  Pretty cool.  It is a fun crossing.

Ok time to start hiking.  That’s where we are heading, High Dune.  Just follow the ridges a mere 2.5 miles round trip.  The path is rolling to start but soon becomes steeper with many sections across deep loose sand.  There are quite a few breaks and after an hour of climbing we begin to question whether we really need to go all the way to High Dune.  Well, maybe.  We keep trekking.  We are both doing lots of huffing and puffing and I’m a bit queasy.  Looks like maybe I am not quite acclimated to 7500 – 8000 ft.  We cut the hike short stopping at a pre-dune after about a 325ft climb in elevation and take a seat on the ridge.  The view is fantastic and it’s a great spot to sit and watch sand boarders.  With a bit of rest, some salty snacks, and plenty of water I’m feeling ok.  We stick to our decision to stop our ascent and make our way back down toward the creek.  No way the High Dune trip could have been just 2.5 miles.  Our round trip was 2.25 miles and it was easily another ¾ mile to the very top.  No matter, we had a great hike.

We check out the visitor center and get a pretty good lesson on this unique ecosystem that encompasses the mountain ridge (its contribution of water from snowmelt and effect on wind and weather patterns), the sand field (its origin as mountain erosion products deposited in a great inland sea), and water (it sustains life here, regenerates the aquifer, and transports sand back to the base of the dunes to be carried through again) together they sustains this always changing but ever stays the same system.   This site is one of the few National Park and Preserve sites where all elements, even the underlying aquifer are protected and the ecosystem less threatened by neighboring land uses.  Good Job Department of the Interior.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad

I love historic steam train excursions and Kent is a great sport about joining in whenever I find them.  Today our refurbished passenger car pulled by powerful 2-8-2, narrow gage, coal-fired, steam locomotive, engine 484.  It was built around 1925 by Baldwin Locomotive.

Love those chug-chug and hiss sounds of it working.  Love the whistle and the clang signaling to all what’s to happen next.  We board in Chama, NM for a 64-mile ride to Antonito, CO along a rail line built in the late 1800s.   The route passes through steep-walled river-carved ravines and broad U-shaped valleys cut by glaciers, the rail bed sometimes carved into cliff faces or twisting past steep rocky cuts; most notable Toltec Gorge.  We cross Cumbres Pass through the San Juan Mountains at 10,015ft elevation.  From Chama to Osier (about half way) the route spends much of its mileage climbing, including plenty of 4% grade so we have lots of opportunity to hear and watch the engine really work.  Best views come in the stacked tight curves laid out to make the climb without exceeding possible grade.  There are tunnels and trestles of course.  We spot wildlife too; elk, some a binocular distance and even a small band bedded down just 100 ft or so from the track.  There are pronghorn, a mule deer, and prairie dog.  An earlier trip saw black bear but not us.  Scenery is spectacular nearly the whole ride leaving me to comment more than once,” I could live here”, as we roll past 1800 homesteads and modern cabins dotting the wide valleys.  Sage brush plains near Antonito are not amazing to look at but they do provide opportunity for pronghorn sighting.

We stop for lunch at Osier, very well done “What the Truck” catering.

One more fun thing to watch (if you are a steam train enthusiast of course) here at Osier, an engine change.  We meet the Chama bound train pulled by the older 463 engine along the siding and watch the choreographed exchange as 848 drops our cars then backs off the main rail.

463 drops her cars then backs onto our track.  848 maneuvers to lock onto the Chama bound cars and 463 backs in to lock onto our cars.  Smooth as silk and now both trains are idling ready to go on our way.  It seems the more powerful 848 is kept on the Chama side of the pass running that half of the route.   The older locomotive, 463; owned by the city of Antonito, runs the less demanding Antonito side.

Don’t miss this ride.  It is one of the greatest scenic railroad excursions we have gone on.

Costilla County History

Founded in 1851, San Luis is the oldest town in Colorado.  We check out a major attraction, The Shrine of the Stations of the Cross, built by/funded by the Sangre de Cristo Parish.  The bronze statues are amazingly detailed.  I can’t avoid a lapse into the technical, what a magnificent application of lost wax bronze casting.

 

 

Fort Garland was built in 1858.  Five of the original adobe buildings still stand and house a nicely curated collection of artifacts.  Colorado volunteers trained here and served in the Civil War.  Buffalo Soldier cavalrymen trained and served from this Fort distinguishing themselves in Indian relations.  It is an informative and interesting local museum.

Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge

We head out pretty early for some bird and wildlife watching.  Neary all of the foot trails are closed to protect the breeding grounds of the endangered Southwestern Willow Flycatcher but there are a couple drives to check out.  Wetland habitat is home for mallards, blue winged teal, yellow headed and lots of red wing blackbirds.  We spot a Virginia Rail as it crossed the road in front of us, one bird we rarely get such a good look at. Bluff Overlook drive runs along a ledge with a wide view of the San Luis Valley.  There are elk and odd-looking rock ledges turn out to be large herds of sheep tightly clustered together moving like a single mass.