We drop onto the coastal loop of the southern scenic route. The ever present rolling green hills stretch out before us then are abruptly replaced by a dramatic rugged coast. All along there are opportunities to stop and admire the rugged land. Kaka Point is rugged and wild. Nugget Point lighthouse is stark white against the blues sky and ocean. Surfers swarm the beach at Purakounui Bay. It is tempting to stay and watch but its only 1PM so we better move on a bit further. Waterfall trails call our names so we check out Purakaunui and Matai before settling in at the Dept of Conservation campground at Papatowai, our home for night five. They are pretty informal with these campgrounds. It is just a self-pay station at a big grassy area and you find a spot that suits. They do have a tenters’ kitchen and passable restrooms – nonpotable water though. Birds are all around us, especially the noisy native Tui. It took us an hour to get a picture of the silly fellow. A quick walk out to the estuary beach and we have our first encounter with the infamous sand flies. Ooh, they are as mean as reviews say they are.